Nickoli

Hmmm thanks for the suggestions subasaurus! What baffles me is that I've never had to tighten my alt belt with anything but my arm pulling up on it, and have never had this squeal. Could getting it too rtght also lead to it squealing? It only happened on hard downshifts and between first and second today. So annoying. I also tried running the belt on the outside pulley groove instead of the inside one, no difference. I thought about trying two belts but it didn't seem like they were both under the same tension when I put them on so I went back to one. I really figured that with the new pulleys and a new belt it would be back to normal. I'm leaning towards either the pivot bolt of the alt or the lock bolt is slipping or something but it all feels and looks to tight when I'm under the hood. Bleh. Maybe I can get a video of the sound/when it happens soon.

Unfortunately it doesn't sound at idle or when stationary and revving the engine with or without belts, no squeal. At the moment it's only happening at the exact point the clutch disengages between 1st and 2nd, or when going from reverse to first. Maybe it is clutch/bearing related after all, but replacing the belt and togtening it helped quite a bit, but didn't fix it--it used to do it between all gears. That led me to believe I was on the right track. Pulleys are straight and the belt tracks perfectly with no flop. I'm hesitant to get it too tight, but prying the alt up with a pipe has it almost eliminated. Maybe my alternator isn't staying tight the whole time. Or something.

Bleh. This is driving me insane. Roughed up and cleaned all three pulleys, new belt that seats correctly and is the right length, still a squeal when I downshift or shift at high rpm between 1st and 2nd mostly. Used pulleys from subasaurus, cleaned them, another new belt, still a squeal every once in a while... I just used a pipe to pry the alt up and got it as tight as I ever have, not test driving it tonight but if it still squeals tomorrow I'm out of ideas. I can definitely hear it coming from the alt side and the center off the crank I'm assuming, and it gets better when I get it nice and tight and put the new belt on, but it has never gone away completely. It all started when I put a v belt on that was too big, and ran it for ~3k miles. I really assumed new pulleys would fix it for good this time..

Would you ship a crank pulley that the v belt goes around, a water pump pulley, and an alternator pulley? I think mine got glazed so hard there's no fixing them. Tried roughing them up and I'm still getting a small squeal every once in a while with a brand new belt

Woah. In searching alternator belt threads, I just realized most EA82s run two belts. Both that I've owned have manual steering and no AC. I've always used one belt. Tensioning one with the idler sounds rough comparitavely. Also seems like people without AC and with manual steering don't have issues with running only one belt. Gonna stick with it.

Belt dressing, check. How do you guys set the tension on your accessory belt? Just lift the alternator by hand and tighten it down? How tight is too much tension? I've kind of always wondered...

Belt dressing, check. How do you guys set the tension on your accessory belt? Just lift the alternator by hand and tighten it down? How tight is too much tension? I've kind of always wondered...

Also had minor squeal again today, but obviously the engine running smoother has helped it, which makes the belt much more likely! Wow you guys rock, how did I not think about the fan belt. I guess it's being put under a different load when the clutch disengages. Makes sense. That makes me happy if it's that and not a tranny bearing. Putting my spare on today to give it a go! Would it be more likely that it squeals if it's too tight or too loose?

85 gl wagon, weberized, dr 4wd About 5k miles ago she stated making a high pitch squeal when disengaging the clutch if I tried to give it gas right away. It only lasted until the gears engaged. It did it when shifting between all gears, but the worst from 1st to 2nd. Sometimes it would do it even if I matched rpms and double clutched. A lot less frequent if I shifted carefully though. Squealed on almost every engine brake and downshift unless I was at very low rpms. No other clutch related issues, no slipping, but the clutch is of unknown age and the pilot bearing whines sometimes so I just figured I'd replace it. I also got a new tranny shaft bearing, and have just been waiting to put them all in, driving it carefully. That was my problem, here is my current situation and question. I drove it down to Florida from Colorado just after the squeal started happening, and finally got around to a tuneup yesterday. Bumped my timing up to ~20--I had been getting pinging on the way down to Florida so I retarded it a little--leaned out the weber, dropped the idle, and seafoamed the carb/pcv vacuum hose. Lots of smoke from the seafoam, obviously running a ton better as to be expected. Now, today on my drive to work, no squeal between 1st and second, no squeal when I engine brake. No squeal. Is there something that would squeal when engaging gears that the seafoam would have fixed?!? I'm so baffled, but so pleased that it's gone. Just wondering if someone has any opinion on what it could've been?

what wagons said. the three timing notches are all by themselves, not with the other lines. i'd watch the video miles fox has on doing the timing. it may help to see it.

If it's one of two openings on the front (facing the bumper of the car) they are both vacuum ports. I forget exactly, but the left one is connected and the right one can be plugged. try looking through loyale 2.7's weber swap guide and i bet it's there somewhere. the primary idle jet is on the driver's side of the carb, if i remember correctly. i can also check tomorrow. can you take a picture of what's missing?

Still no fix. Been busy with work and family stuff. I'm hoping to take the assembly out this weekend and check the spring perch, make sure it's seated properly and not rusty. Also have a new mount/bearing assembly to put on the passenger side just incase. I also can't torque the top 19mm nut to the ~60lb spec, it just spins freely. It's tight, but not 60lbs. Tried using a small cordless impact drill, but it didn't get it tight enough still. Do I need to put a spanner somewhere to tighten it? I figured the pressure of the spring would hold it from spinning. Iluvdrt, did you buy a new plate/pearch or was it just the mount assembly that you replaced?

Maybe i was just hoping only the passenger side was the problem, but I need to replace both. Or I needed to sand/clean the spring perch before putting the new mount/bearing assembly on. Only the passenger side was obviously binding, and only the passenger side was missing it's cap and had visible rust in the bearings. Anyone know the torque spec on the top single 19mm nut holding the mount to the spring assembly anyhow? I've searched and searched. I have a FSM coming in a week, but I'd like to make sure I torqued it to spec before I move on. Maybe I over torqued the new mount and fudged it all up.

Maybe I need to replace the plate on the strut mount too. The bearing in the mount was totally garbage. I'm gonna spray some deep creep and maybe some lube up where the spring seats to see if I can get any response. I have a sinking feeling that's it. Also, It's manual steering so no PS issues.

Perfect! thanks guys. Knowing it's called memory steer helps a lot. I'll also take a look at the whole steering column again and clean it up really good. I have a good junkyard nearby, so I may just replace the steering U-joint anyhow--i think that's the steering joint coupler?

I've owned this 85 EA82 wagon, non turbo, for over a year now, and have just been dealing with this nagging issue. Basically, after turning the wheel hard left, like from a complete stop, the steering continually pulls to the left until you make a right hand turn. Then it tracks straight. Left turns while moving don't cause the issue, only hard lefts. Anything over a half a turn of the steering wheel seems to do it. It pulls under load, when coasting, with the clutch depressed, in neutral, in all gears, it just pulls until I turn hard right. Turning right from a stop doesn't cause it to pull to the right nearly as much as when you make a left, so for almost a year now I've just been making right turns after I make left ones in order to straighten it out.... When I bought it, I thought I had the issue sourced: the passenger side strut mount had lost it's cap covering the bearing, and the bearing was seized and skipping. I figured when I broke into the front end I'd do the strut mount and all would be good. Well, I finally replaced the strut mount today and really thought the issue would be solved. Wrong. I've also replaced the outer tie rods, ball joints, wheel bearings, and the passenger front axle. Tires are <20k miles old, balanced multiple times, professional alignment after all front end work. Steering U-joint tested okay. I just don't know what else it could be. Inner tie rods maybe? The boots on those are blown, but they seem to go so fast on all of the old soobies I've owned. I don't notice any movement in the steering rack when the car is lifted and I turn the wheel. I really don't notice anything odd except the strut mount, so I really thought that would solve it. Would it be worth throwing a steering rack at it? Could it be something with the steering wheel itself? Anyone had this problem before?

So, looking for some opinions. I've blown three axle boots in less than 10,000 miles, and as much as I love replacing axles, it's getting tiresome cleaning up all of the dang grease it spews everywhere when it goes. The question is this: I have a brand new axle in the back, I also have two spares that have blown their boots but never started clicking and seem to be pretty clean inside, I also have a new silicone inner boot kit. Should I: A.) rebuild the new one with the silicone boot and new grease--removing all of the new grease seems overly messy B.) rebuild one of the old ones with the silicone boot--less grease to remove before new boot or C.) just slap the new silicone boot directly overtop of the new boot without removing it or any grease. Double boots, silicone on top. Orrr has anyone had luck spraying their neoprene boots with silicone spray? I've seen quite a few posts by one person saying they did this, but no real indication on whether or not it helps in the longterm. I guess I could also just put a heat shield over the thing....I'm just tired of axle grease

Sometimes the Micky mouse seal on the oil pump doesn't sit right. When I changed mine it leaked, and that was the issue when I took it apart. I read on here to use a tiny tiny spot or two of permatex to hold the gasket in place when you install. Hope it's that. Easy fix.

I solved my tick of death by resealing the oil pump. Simple job, and easy to do some other preventative seals/timing belts at the same time. Now I only get noise for like 3 seconds on cold start before some oil makes it's way around the engine. Before the oil pump reseal, it was almost always ticking.

What a difference a tuneup makes. Also, no 4wd on this tank, but I got 26.02 mpg on the last fill up. Not using an measurement really, but it's nice to know a ballpark. Using the tach for mileage, and I fill up at the same pump of the same station so it hopefully clicks off at the same time. Used 7.1 gallons to go 184.8 miles. I'll take it! Noticing some gas on the backside of the carb. Can't tell if it's coming from one of the carb mounting studs or the gasket between the adapter and the weber. Probably time to replace it anyhow. Maybe I'll break 30mpg again!

Whew. Long time since an update. This will be text only with pictures to follow. Made it back to Colorado with no issues other than cold air blowing in the front passenger speaker location. Probably no speaker there anymore, and it was hard for the heat to keep up at 70 mph. I'll fix that before next winter. Electric choke treated me good this winter...surprisingly. Started up in -28 F for three days in a row. Thought I was gonna break a clutch/throttle cable but she ran! The heater blades were frozen stuck though, lol....cold cold drive to work. Fresh 5w-30 and filter (had to use carquest brand unfortunately) about a month ago at 237,XXX and one cold morning when I started her up it was puking out of the filter. I was able to tighten it almost a full turn past where it was when I installed it and the leak went away. Lesson learned. Extreme cold affects seals lol. Had idle issues that I posted a thread about, ended up being crud getting to the carb. Blew out the main idle jet with compressed air today because the idle problem showed it's ugly head again and there was visible crud in the main idle jet. Replaced both fuel filters, and added an in-line clear one right before the weber. Also got a new distributor cap, rotor, plugs, and wires for sh**s and giggles--I hate to admit that I didn't bother changing the rotor and cap when I got the car, or for the entire Florida trip. The old distributor was corroded in one of the cylinders, and the rotor looked worn. The plug from cylinder one had a little carbon deposit and was black, slightly wet. Cylinders 1-3 were gray and clean--lean condition?. Started up perfectly, and idled rock solid. I was able to lean it out and set the idle screw both pretty close to the tuning specs. Idle screw is just over one full turn past contact, and the mixture screw is at 1.5 turns out. Slightly lean, but I don't know if I'm ready to tackle re-jetting just yet. Added a bottle of seafoam to a fresh gas tank, and am hopefully going to see an improvement in mileage after the tuneup. Winter means a lot of idle time in the morning, so I expected to see my mileage drop, but I was getting 21-25 fully loaded on the trip to Florida, and have been averaging only 17 around town this winter. Granted that's with some 4wd action, and lots of short trips with the engine not quite at operating temp--I only live 6 minutes from work this winter. Also replaced the PCV valve with OEM and cleaned out the oil blow-by in the hoses...could be from the previous owner honestly, haven't checked them since I've owned it. Found that the previous owner had the vacuum to the EGR hooked up all wrong, but followed Kanurys's old build thread and got them all hooked up how they're supposed to. T'd into the thermoswitch along with the distributor advance and the PCV valve. The new radiator and/or the fact that I used a stant xact thermostat is causing it to overcool out here. I have an OEM thermostat and new radiator hoses that are set to go in any day now so hopefully it will get to full operating temp and stay there. I was just waiting on the warm weather to hit. Also rotating the tires at the same time. Whew. Love this car!

Well. The issue has been gone for two days now. Pump has power and pumps fuel. Then I blew out the primary idle jet, which is a 60, which is probably way too big now that I live at 7k ft and regularly travel to 10k+, but that's a different story. After blowing it out it worked perfectly--so, changed the rear fuel filter, and opened the one on the weber for inspection and found quite a few rust colored flakes. Definitely enough to cause some issues if they made their way into the carb. Cleaned the filter for now, ordered two to replace and have a spare. It's been idling rock solid with no hesitation for two days. Seems like it's problem solved.

So, I did some searching and I have a few leads on what I need to check, but figured id post anyways and see if someone had some input. Ea82 weberized. It ran perfectly to Florida and back, and had no issues for most of this winter, until: one day after some hard turns and some 4wd bumpy, snowy, road fun time it decided to sputter and die when I put it in neutral. I went inside for 10 mins, came back out, started it up and it idled perfectly... This problem came and went seemingly randomly for the last week while I tried to notice a pattern. Cold/warm engine didn't matter. Sometimes it would die on the first stop sign by my house and then 30 ft later I would have no idle issues for the rest of the trip. Last night I noticed that I can make it idle when the issue is present by backing out the fuel mixture screw almost 4 full turns. Once the issue goes away i can return the screw to its normal location and it idles rock solid at 800 until the issue decides to present itself again. It runs perfect with throttle or load on the engine, dies in neutral and won't idle. This morning I started it with the idle increased and fuel mixture turned out, got to work--about 2 miles--and it was idling high, the issue had gone away. I leaned the fuel mixture to its normal spot, dropped the idle to 800. Rock solid idle for 10 mins. Turned the car off. Immediately turned it back on and it wanted to sputter and die. I seafoamed it down the carb hoping it would flush something out. I let it trickle through the jets. Nada. I am reluctant to think it's the float out of wack or a vacuum leak because the problem fixes itself randomly. Fuel filter is fairly new. Like 7k miles, but I'll replace that tonight. My next step is to investigate and blow out the jets? Also to check the fuel filter on the weber itself. Would a failing fuel pump cause something like this? It's just puzzling how random it is, and how it goes away by itself. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated!

New radiator went in flawlessly. New cap seemed much better than what I was using, the spring seemed in better shape. She made it to our next stop in North Carolina with zero problems. Temperature gauge was pegged at 1/3 the entire way. Perfect. Hoping that when we head back to Colorado I can remove the clutch fan and everything will still stay cool. Currently still running both fans even though it has no AC.

Perfect! That's what I was assuming. Thanks a ton Dave.