Wizard

No Im not in the rust belt. I'm in northern California. The axel moves freely back and forth in the splined part of the hub. Something that I thought of is that I put Forester struts on about 10k or 12k miles back. The Forester struts give about an extra inch or two of lift and makes the suspension really stiff. Do the larger struts possibly have anything to do with this? Something else I haven't tried is removing the long knuckle bolt that usually gets rusted out when cars drive in the rust belt. Then trying to shove the axel out and using the cup and plate press kit I have to remove the hub. That doesn't really make sense though because I would have to have a cup bigger than the hub around the lug nut bolt surface to press it out against.

My rear hub is stuck on my 96 Subaru legacy on both sides. I heard my bearings start to go so I thought I would do the bearings my self. I watched this video by Eric the car guy and followed what he did. https://youtu.be/w7rYxh0XWuA I got to the step where I have to use a slide hammer to get my hub out of the bearing. I pounded for at least an hour with it it budging. I also tried to push on the CV axel with the bolt that comes with the hub tamer. If I have to take the e brakes off I think that will be beyond what I can do/am willing to do. I have a 5 lb side hammer. Is that too light and that's why I can't get them off? That doesn't make sense though because I used the impact driver on the hub tamer bolt against the CV axel and that didn't work. Anybody have any ideas or run into this problem?

Will I want to get outback springs as well? How much will outback struts raise my legacy?

My rear struts are out and it's time to get new struts. I've heard that Forester struts are compatible with legacy (i have the regular not the outback) and add some clearance. Im wondering if this is true and if it is, is there anything I need to know about adding Forester struts to my legacy that is outside the normal strut installation procedure?

So took off the wheel panel that protects the wires from getting muddy and found a big bundle of all sorts of wires. I didn't really want to take it apart because I didn't know if I could get it back together again but I couldn't be 100 percent sure that the two white wires that go into the fuse box were the same white wires to the alternator. So I unplugged the wires from the fuse box and tried to do a volt test by connecting the wires from the alternator to the battery. I thought it would be an incomplete circuit and not do anything because it was unplugged at the other end but it did complete the circuit. So is there a portion of the wire that is bare in the bundle of wires that is above the wheel that I can't see? Or is the circuit complete even if it's unplugged? Or are those two white wires that connect to the fuse box not actually what I

There have always been two wires since I bought the car but that also doesn't mean that it is the way it's supposed to be. Any idea what gage that wire is? It looks like 12 or 14 gage to me. There is an aftermarket cd player in the car and I have always suspected that the speakers are aftermarket because they are too good to be 21 years old. So it could be just slightly too much current going through those wires. We will see when I switch them out for bigger wires. Thanks for the help!

Okay, so I'm driving home in my 96 legacy and see my speedometer and tachometer drop to zero then when I step on the gas it comes back. Then the radio goes out. So I recognize the symptoms of a dead battery. Get to the top of the driveway and the car dies. I'm pretty sure I know what I'm going to find under the hood because This is the third time in 1.5 years that this has happened. I haven't ever figured out where that wire goes but I'm assuming it goes to the battery because it's connected to the alternator. The wire gets fried like that about every 6 months then I re-attach it and it's fine until it gets hot and fries itself again. I thought maybe it was a bad alternator but the last time I took it out and got it tested and it was fine. I'm thinking there is a deeper problem here though. Some thing is overpowering that wire(obviously) maybe someone here would know what's going on. And why is it so regular. Regular to the point that last week I checked the wire to see if I could tell if it was going bad. I couldn't tell anything so I just kept driving and now it happened again. I don't remember the check engine light going on the other times, maybe I didn't check the codes and maybe it was never on in the first place but this time it is on and so I checked the codes and I'm getting po500: the speed sensor is at fault Po135: the bank 1 O2 sensor 1 oxygen sensor heater circuit Po180: the bank 1 O2 sensor 2 oxygen sensor heater circuit I haven't done any research on what the last two are so I have no idea what that means but I guess it makes sense that this problem has to do with a heater circuit. Any ideas on how to figure out what's up with my subaru?

When you got power to the pump again did you prime the lines by turning the key to turn the pump on a few times or just once? It takes 4 or five times to prime the line. You also said there were no sparks so maybe it's an issue with that.Also I hope you're recovering just fine.

So now when my ac is on my car lurches just a little bit you almost don't feel it but it's there. I let some pressure off but it's still happening. It's also making quick hissing noises like it's letting off pressure.

Awesome! So glad to hear it helped out! I was hoping it would help someone!

I put in the first can and it didn't charge my account enough. Then my house mate gave me an old bottle of refridgerant. At first I thought it wasn't working or too old because the gage never changed. So I went and bought a new 2nd bottle. When I put the new pressure gage on it shot up to right on the line between just enough and too much. Now my car makes a few short hissing sounds like it's releasing pressure for a few minutes after I start her up. What's the consequences of over charging? Just curious what I almost did to my car/ maybe already did.

So I just got my tires rotated at 5000 miles from when they were put on. which was what was recommended to do but now my steering wheel starts to vibrates when I get up to 65 mph.I'm not entirety certain that it is because of the wheel rotation but I first noticed it a day or two after they were rotated. I drive every day on windy roads. Is it possible I waited too long to rotate them even though 5000 miles is when they should be rotated? How can I fix this before it affects something else too much?

I didn't actually get your post until after I did it but it was fairly obvious what needed to happen once I took a close look at the two assemblies next to each other. I'm pretty new to mechanics so fixing this on my car by my self was a huge boost in confidence. Thanks for all your help everyone!

I basically did that and now my car works. Here are some pictures for any body who has the same problem as me. The pump I salvaged didn't have a fuel temperature sensor and so was missing a wire in the connection that attaches the fuel temperature sensor plug to the assembly plug. So what I did was swap the pump from the new assembly to the old one. If you end up salvaging a part, look very carefully for differences. That's the lesson I learned. I thought I was in the clear because I got my new pump off almost exactly the same 96 Subaru Legacy but it was the model that had the Ej25 engine while my Subie has the ej22. Now that I know it makes perfect sense. Old one: See the little metal cylinder at the bottom of the assembly? That's the fuel temp sensor. See how there are 4 wires in the plug? New one: See the difference at the bottom? No fuel sensor and only 3 wires (it looks like 2 in the picture but the third one is hiding) I hope this helps someone.

So I put a used pump in from pick n pull and she started up just fine but there is a check engine light on. The code is p0180. Which is a fuel temperature sensor malfunction. Anybody know how to fix this? And is my car dangerous to drive? What are the consequences of not fixing it?

I disconnected the line from the fuel filter to the engine like you said and almost nothing came out. I also listened inside the fuel tank while the gas cap was open and I'm not sure if I heard anything. I don't know if the pump is very audible while the car is starting. I could have heard nothing as well. The nose I heard was really faint. Would I be able to hear the fuel pump from the open gas lid?

96 Subaru Legacy cranks but won't start. Battery is a bit low but fine. When I spray starting fluid in the throttle body it starts up for a bit then runs out of starting fluid and stops. So I'm thinking this is a problem with my fuel line somewhere. I'm not sure it's not my fuel filter but I replaced it last November. I really have no idea how to trouble shoot this. Is it an electricity problem? Or a fuel problem? Anybody got ideas for me?

the wire that goes from the battery to the alternator has melted. not sure what it is called. looks like all i need to do is re-connect it. alternator is fine. except that this is the second time this has happened in 3 months. anybody have any idea what is going on? i have heard there may be a short. its possible the two wires meet right there and the wire coating has chaffed over time. does anybody know what gauge wire it is so i can just replace it and get back on the road. i can figure out whats ultimately wrong later.

no thats not what happened. one of the four bolts that connect the transmission to the transmission mount broke off pretty evenly inside the actual transmission. i got the transmission off by my self though! didn't pull the engine. just dropped it out the bottom by tilting the engine backwards and tugging a lot; with a little bit of wedging to move it backwards off the studs. it balanced perfectly on the jack.

What do you do if you break a bolt in the transmission housing? The Head came right off and the shaft is still inside. It's one of the mounting bolts

thanks everyone! this is a great help especially what you posted AdventureSubaru. I started the project today. didn't get that far. my exhaust is out and so is the starter motor. I decided to go the drop the tranny method rather than the pull the engine route because i don't have a hoist and I'm trying to save my money. I already did my valve cover gaskets about 6 months ago. I also have new exhaust gaskets that were put on in November. So no need to do those things. I fount a linkage that is very loose. its the top linkage that is the picture (this isn't my car its just the same part): http://smg.photobucket.com/user/subyrs1/media/Subaru%20Clutch%20DIY/Step15.jpg.html I was wondering if maybe this could be why my clutch is slipping. but there is also the burning smell that happens when the car is in 4th or 5th gear to account for. I haven't gotten into the transmission but the fluid is clear and clean. is it possible that this is a linkage problem and something else is causing the burning smell?

same thing happened to my 96 legacy L. how far into the project are you?

thanks montana tom. I'm curious what you mean when you say the ej22 is completely non interference? I also forgot to mention (I edited it since) that i already have a gasket set for my engine. its not OEM though. I didn't know the value of OEM when i bought it so now i am thinking i will sell it and get an OEM kit. what do you think? pretty sure you'll still say to leave the head gaskets alone.

hey subaru folks, I have a 96 subaru legacy L 2.2l wagon. my clutch just recently started slipping and yesterday a burnt smell started to develop. I'm a new dyi mechanic. I have done jobs like struts, rack and pinion, new brake calipers, new tie rod ends, new bearings, new ball joints, CV axles, spark plugs... there may be some other things in there that i have done that I am forgetting but the point is that i wanted to give you an idea of what sort of experience i have had. All self taught through youtube and some help from a mechanic friend. I have never done a full engine pull and the thought is kinda daunting to me but now it looks like fate is forcing me to do it. I certainly don't have the money to take it to the mechanic but i do have access to all the tools i would need to do the job except a cherry picker which i would rent. from all of the videos that I have watched it seems like a pretty straightforward procedure there are just a lot of steps. my questions: -Is there anyway that I don't have to do this, at least right now? How long can i put this off for and what are the consequences? -Does anyone have any methods for staying organized and remembering what goes back where when its time a few days later? -It seems like I could do this job in theory but theory is way different than practice. Does anyone have any tips or tricks I may not see in a video online? What may happen to a newbie that I would want to avoid? -Anybody have any words of encouragement? Is this even something I should attempt? I have a mechanic friend I can ask questions too but he won't be able to hold my hand through this one. Looks like I'm on my own out in the shop. Is there any reason I shouldn't go through with this? -Should I do my head gaskets while i'm at it? I've been thinking of doing this for a long time. There is grease all over my engine and it has been pointed out to me that this may be early signs of head gasket failure. I already have an engine gasket kit but it isn't OEM. what do you think: return it/sell it or use it? -What else should I look at doing while my engine is out? Timing belt was done at 105k miles and now she is at 137k miles... so it doesn't seem like that needs doing unless it was just a belt slap job which i don't know of. Timing belt happened before i owned the car. whew thats a lot of questions. don't feel obligated to answer all of those... just the ones you are interested in. thanks for the help. -Aaron p.s. anybody in the grass valley CA area on this forum want to help me out? I ain't got much to give for the help but maybe someone wants to help for the fun of it.