kmpdx

So basically I don't mind learning something new and doing my own research. I am not an expert and in the process of learning. This issue is pushing the limit of my knowledge which I will admit isn't extensive. When I was living in Portland, I could bounce things off my local mechanic which was super helpful but I am in a nursing program in southern Oregon and don't have a relationship with a mechanic here so I am relying on you guys and Google/Youtube. I appreciate your help, but if it is not specific enough for you, you may choose to check back later when I do get more specific information. I did get a vacuum gauge. While it is not a definitive test, I did not get the the steady drop in vacuum that I would expect when accelerating the motor to around 2.5k RPMs if it were a restricted exhaust. If I pull the O2 sensor, What size socket would I use? I did try to get a deep 22mm socket in there but I need to jack up the car I think to get it in there. Is 22mm the right size?. Thanks, kmpdx

So I would like to test for back pressure. One poster suggested that I test for back pressure using the EGR? Can somebody explain this to me? Is this the best place to connect it to? I really would like to rule this out if I need to. Then I can try other things. I have a infrared tester but I don't have it here so have been reluctant to buy another one here. Thanks, kmpdx

I tapped the rear cat and no rattle but I have not yet tapped the front cat. I do suspect that is where the problem is if it turns out to be restricted exhaust but will need to get down there next weekend. I will also pull the O2 sensor at that time and see if that makes a difference. Having the guts blown out is what the guys at the auto parts store suggested. How should I do that? Fuel filter is good, Air filter is good, MAF looks good and was cleaned using the right cleaner in the last year although there was a normal amount of oil vapor in the intake boot. When you say incorrect timing are you talking the timing belt? It is old and should probably be replaced. It did happen all of the sudden under load on the freeway. So maybe it did jump a tooth? Does that fit this picture? I will explore those options once I can definitively rule out restricted exhaust. Thanks, kmpdx

After driving home again I don't think that the gas actually "cuts out" but that regardless of how hard the accelaerator is pressed the power prdoduced maxes out at the above listed RPMs. I suppose if that were true that it would support the resricted exhaust.

Subnz, I am going to test the coild and distrubutor cap to rule those out. Proabably won't get to it until next weekend. Thanks!

1991 SPFI manual Loyale w/212k miles So I am waiting for a pressure gauge to come to test the vacuum, I am still driving it to try to diagnose. It never really has full power but I noticed in different gears on flat ground I get to certain RPM/speeds. 1st gear 5k+RPMs 20 mph 2nd gear 4k RPMs 30 mph 3rd gear 3k RPMs 40ish mph When it hits the max RPMs, the gas cuts even if I floor it and only will come back on once I take the gas off and let it go below the RPMs listed and then it will get gas and cut out again relatively consistently with the numbers I posted above. It never has the power I know that it should in any gear and the RPMs never match the power I expect like what I had when it was functioning properly. Does this still sound like resricted exhaust? I will check pressure and or pull O2 sensor to see if I get the same results next weekend. Thanks, kmpdx

Thanks DaveT. Since I currently have limited access to most of my tools and a workspace, I am limited in what I can do. I have never been at those bolts so I know it could be a real can of worms. I am going to try to use the gauge first and then see what steps I might take after that.

1991 SPFI manual Loyale w/212k miles. I am trying to figure out if my exhaust is blocked so I ordered a meter from Amazon to test vacuum. Where do you guys think a good spot to connect it is? I even thought about connecting it and putting outside the windsheild so that I can test the vacuum while driving. Also, do I need to do anything to the EGR? Thanks, kmpdx

Hey guys, So to answer a few questions, 1991 SPFI 1.8L Loyale manual transmission w/212k miles on the odometer. I pullled the air filter and plastic boot and checked the butterfly valve, confirmed that the accelerator linkage was fully functional, and pulled the fule filter and checked that it is clear. Transmission fluid is fine. I drove it around and starts fine and accelates fine for a while. Then under load and uphill it just quits geeting power. If I let off the gas and wait a second I can get it to gas again but it never reaches full power. It does seems to max out RPMs in third but can get more in lower gears intermitently. WHile I can not rule out the valve springs being the problem, it is not as consistent as I would expect. I really am leaning toward resricted exhaust at this point. When I drove it around I stopped at the auto parts store, there was smoke coming off the exhaust manifold. Due to oil leaks this would not be unusual but it was quite a bit. When I looked under the car, there was smoke coming out seams where the front exhaust converter meets the pipe and at the seams in the catalytic converter. I also feel like the motor sounds like it is restricted. The guy at the auto parts store said to diagnose this I should pulll the O2 sensor and see if it has the same problems. Does this sound like the best thing to do at this point? Anyhing else you guys think I might try? Thanks, kmpdx

So I did a qucik look and noticed the cv axle seal where it plugs into the transmission on the passenger side is leaking. I did not have time to check the fluid level yet but if it were low could that cause this? I will do thorough troubleshooting tomorrow to get more information. What I did most recently was add a fuel addirtive that is supposed to clean the fuel system. It was a Lucas brand one but I don't remeber exactly what . I have done routine stuff includinngrebuilding the cooling system, belts, air filter, regular oil changes, among other things in the last year so I am pretty in tune with the car. I will check it out better tomorrow. Thanks for all the suggestions.

Not getting hot, not popping. No weird noises. I still need to go out and check the accelerator cable. I am in nursing school and can't check it until Saturday. I will drive it around and get a better diagnostic. Thanks.

Hey guys. I was on the freeway and realized that I was not getting any power. I pulled off and did a quick inspection and didn't really see anything obvious. I drove home and the car starts and begins acceleration fine but in any gear 4000 RPMs seems to be the max is gets to and then it just won't go past 4000 RPM. I plan to do more to diagnose it this weekend but anything jump out to you guys? Fuel pump? Thanks.

Hey guys. I was on the freeway and realized that I was not getting any power. I pulled off and did a quick inspection and didn't really see anything obvious. I drove home and the car starts and begins acceleration fine but in any gear 4000 RPMs seems to be the max is gets to and then it just won't go past 4000 RPM. I plan to do more to diagnose it this weekend but anything jump out to you guys? Fuel pump? Thanks.

Thanks for the answers. I think that the idea of the oil blowing up is pretty likely. i will keep an eye on it .Thanks!

Hey Guys, I have oil on the top of the motor and not exactly sure where it would be coming from? The steering pump was leaking all over the place and I thought that was the only so I changed that out. Now that it no longer leaks I realize why the fluid didn't appear as red as I would expect. Some of it is oil. It's not a lot but would like to find the source and I am confused where it would come from. I can see it sort of near where behind where the steering pump is and sort of around the intake and seems to be mostly on the passenger side. Any ideas where I should start to look? Thanks.

I installed keyless entry on my 1991 Loyale. Not too hard, right? Wrong. Holy crap. What a pain, but I did it. The driver door was already modded with a disconnected aftermarket actuator that need a lot of positional adjustment to work. Then I installed this: https://www.amazon.com/Docooler-Central-Locking-Keyless-Controllers/dp/B006QH9C5A/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1505369981&sr=8-4&keywords=keyless+entry Which could not work the lock on its own so I had to modify it with this: https://www.the12volt.com/12voltimages/reverse_polarity_act_pos.gif Finally, I had to build a bracket and fit the whole thing in the lower hole of the door. It really took me like 10 months to get this all done. Finally have keyless entry in the Loyale!

I installed keyless entry on my 1991 Loyale. Not too hard, right? Wrong. Holy crap. What a pain, but I did it. The driver door was already modded with a disconnected aftermarket actuator that need a lot of positional adjustment to work. Then I installed this: https://www.amazon.com/Docooler-Central-Locking-Keyless-Controllers/dp/B006QH9C5A/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1505369981&sr=8-4&keywords=keyless+entry Which could not work the lock on its own so I had to modify it with this: https://www.the12volt.com/12voltimages/reverse_polarity_act_pos.gif Finally, I had to build a bracket and fit the whole thing in the lower hole of the door. It really took me like 10 months to get this all done. Finally have keyless entry in the Loyale!

Thanks for the reply. So if the compressor is going out can I leave the clutch unhooked indefinitely?

If mine holds up besides the engine I totally hope to put a first gen EJ22 in it. Or like GD said just get an early Legacy.

Hey guys. So I am in Ashland and I am looking for a mechanic to work on my Loyale. I am at 60k on the timing belt and feel like to keep it reliable to travel to Portland that I should get it done so I don't stranded. I would do it myself but don't currently have space or time to do it in. McClure's which looks like one of the best places in town doesn't do EA82s (same as my Portland mechanic). Any other suggestions? Would be awesome somebody who works on these somewhat regularly. Thanks! kmpdx

So it looks like I was doing my calculations wrong. I was dividing the mileage usong 15.9 gal instead of the 12.5-13 gal that the tank is actually taking on fills when showing empty. Getting ~27 mpg or better. Thanks!

Thanks for all the answers. The bearing is a great suspect and I think I would like to try that first. For now I unplugged the clutch and the evaporator. If I had time eventually I would love to learn to use the tools and upgrade the system. I will try the bearing suggestion when I get some time. Thanks! kmpdx

So I was driving from Ashland to Portland today and it was like 100F on I-5. When I ran the AC it was cold SOME of the time then the condenser would squeal and it would not be cold. When I stopped to rest I decided to check out the squeal and the clutch was locking up after a few turns and the belt was what was squealing and burning a little. So I stopped the AC form running (which I explain further down) Is there a way to fix the AC clutch without letting the refrigerant out? Since it is R12 it would probably not be worth fixing if I had to spend money on refrigerant. There is a second problem which if I could not fix the first i would not worry about, The AC clutch kicks on even when the AC is not set. My theory is that the upper position of the AC button, which has two positions, is stuck "closed" thus always on when the fan is on. To fix this on the road I disconnected the clutch and the evaporator. My first thought is to replace the unit with the buttons after testing the circuit. What do you guys think? If the fix is too difficult I will leave the condenser running as a pulley and not have AC. Thanks!

So it turns out that the AC condenser was running due to what I believe to be a switch that never fully turns the AC off. That will actually be another post. I am going to replace the O2 sensor and see what what happens. I did actually get better mileage with the AC disconnected on the trip back up to Portland. Honestly, my numbers look to be about the same as Lendawg's. If there is any change after O2 sensor I will post. Thanks!

Hi Guys. I just drove my 1991 Loyale from Portland to Ashland. I tracked my mileage and it seems that I got about 20.44/gal. There is quite a bit of uphill driving south of Roseburg but that still seems a little low. The car runs ok and I don't have any obvious signs of a problem. What do you guys think? .