torpedo51

Ah - never mind. I found a video explaining how to release the lock on the clip, and then a special (extra small) de-pin tool. Splicing now. Thanks!

Got it, thanks. Is there a trick to removing the wire from the plastic connector? Even my smallest jewelers screwdrivers are too big for what I think is the release-hole. I was hoping to splice and shrink-wrap, rather than to use a wire tap. Thanks!

Sorry - I'm almost following this... which are you describing? B? A. ECM pin >> + 12v signal >> [LED WARNING LIGHT] >> ground/earth B. + 12v (presumably an "ignition on" wire) >> [LED WARNING LIGHT] >> ECM pin >> ground/earth Thanks!

Thanks. I'm trying to capture this at the ECM, because I don't have a harness for a Subaru dashboard. Is it C11 on this diagram? Thanks!

Found a vacuum leak in a hard-to-see place. Huzzah!

Hi, I have a 2007 Impreza engine in my VW Syncro camper. The ECU and engine harness are Subaru but the fuse panel, relay plate and dashboard are VW. For that reason, I don't have a check engine light on my dash. I was wondering if there is a way to tap into the Subaru ECU so that I can run a wire up to my dash and illuminate a custom "check engine light".

Every time that I put in the clutch and shift to neutral, the rpm drops to idle, then surges to 1800rpm EXACTLY THREE TIMES before settling back to idle. It happens every time. Always three surges. It was throwing a MAF code before I replaced the MAF sensor, but that didn't help. I've also replaced the O2 sensor twice with no effect. No codes being thrown currently. Thanks in advance

My understanding after speaking with the company that performed the engine conversion on my van a few weeks ago, is that they've revised the factory ECU (fuel map, etc?) and explicitly mentioned the need to do this to suppress meaningless fault codes. So I've driven 10,000 miles now, and I've made periodic observations using my OBD2 hand held. I've only had one recurring code that turned out to be legit and remedied with a new MAF (I'll clean the old one and hold on to it for future testing). I also had a CV axle mounted speed sensor that was missing one of its three magnets... causing an occasional hiccup when "flying straight and level" but no fault codes (behavior confirmed with the vendor). I haven't talked to them about adding a CC yet. Perhaps later this week. In the interim, I'm still wondering why there isn't an aftermarket CC solution for this model and narrow range of years? Vendors have reproduced the CC for other models and years, but not mine. I'm wondering if I could simply obtain used equipment, and replace the steering wheel buttons with my own? Ideas? Thanks in advance.

I have a 2007 Impreza EJ25 SOHC installed in my VW Syncro camper. I'd like to add a factory cruise control. I've looked at a few online vendors. I see many direct fit (not universal kits) that fit the Impreza, but none for years between 2004-2011. Am I missing something obvious? Thanks in advance.

I know that the gasket set may be used for multiple variations, and I may not end up using all of these. I don't want to miss one of these during the assembly stage of my project. I removed the "easy ones" from the picture. A - NOT thermostat (smaller than the included thermostat gasket) B - turbo equipment C - EGR D E F - turbo equipment G - turbo equipment H J K - case plugs? L - case plus for wrist pins? Slightly too big to fit into recessed bore on case! M - compression washer - for what? N O P Q R S - turbo equipment

Instead of honing, my machine shop blew it and bored the cylinders to .020. &$#*&<$!#!!! I can't find pistons anywhere... Help?! I prefer not to sleeve it, if that's even possible with this case.

Found it! Pics attached. I confirmed with KEP that this adapter plate *replaces* the factory timing cover. 1985 Subaru DL = 1808 GVWR; 1964 VW BUs = 2470 GVWR; I'm certain it doesn't love the extra 662 lbs Thanks for the ProTip. I'm also using lots of assembly lube throughout.

Found hydraulic lifters during the build, so now I'm thinking its an 1984+ ??

According to the Non-Factory service manual that I have and the build video that I used, the boomerang on each and every rod must face the engine front. Worth noting - each connecting rod was hand etched with an arbitrary (?) number that spanned the seam where the rod and its mate came together. In other words, I was trivial to match each rod with its own cap. (see photo) Here are the four hand etched numbrers from each of my pistons 45, 2, 34, 14 I weighed them on a scale (metric and imperial) and didn't find any matches to these numbers, e.g. 30.45g