subarubuddy
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Posts posted by subarubuddy
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Thanks Trogdor, that's the post I was waiting for.
yes thank you...that is exactly what i need to know!!
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i have a 5-speed dual range tranny already out of a car, but i don't know what car it came from.
maybe a turbo maybe not. 85 or later DL/GL(-10)/loyale/turbo(??who knows??) thats all i know about it...so the problem is i have a 3.9:1 open rear diff in my loyale now, and i want to put the d/r tranny in. but how do i even know if it's a 3.7 or 3.9:1 ratio? i don't want to put it in and then tear it apart when i go to see if 4WD works. and obviously it wouldn't help to change the rear diff either because i don't know if i need to. thanks for all your help. -
EA-82 Wagon Curb weight 2560lbs
mine says on the door pillar 3400 something. i don't remember exactly. but it is 3400something... that seemed heavy to me but thats what it says.
it is a 1992 loyale wagon 5speed 4WD..
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not a whole lot of difference.just the headlights, trim, and a DL`s interior isn`t as plush as a GL.what year is it?
what about a GL-10??
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Yeah, gauge is all-electric, no oil lines. What I thought was maybe the light comes on when the pressure sender reaches some critically low point. My owner's manual says it can be normal to have the gauge at almost 0 psi when idling, so maybe the light is a backup to let you know when pressure is really critically low, lower than what the gauge can tell you.
The manual is for a GL specifically and doesn't have diagrams for an idiot light only setup like on a DL. It just says the oil light should light up when ignition is on, doesn't sound like it's an "if equipped" sort of thing, more like it should light period, regardless of model, So I still don't know for sure. But since there's nothing wrong with her otherwise I guess I'll just leave it be, I don't know what else I can do to find out for sure.
well i can't tell you for sure, but i have a '92 loyale with the same problem. only i am also not so sure if its supposed to be that way either. i found this post by doing a search because i wanted to find out if it was equipped with both a guage and a light. the guage works but the light does not (if there even is one). i'm starting to think maybe you get either a guage or a light but not both, depending how the car is equipped.
But sorry, this probably doesn't really help.
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It's getting to be winter soon, which means snow autocross!
I'm thinking an EA82 wagon would be halfway competitive at one of these, at least against 2WD cars. How well does the ability to put all the power to the ground compensate for the lack of power in the first place?
-=Russ=-
i don't really know for sure. but i'd say the lack of power won't really be an issue so much because you can spin all four wheels in the snow anyway with these cars if you want to. more power won't get you any more traction. so i say go for it! i think rust will be your biggest problem. don't let all that snow and ice sit there stuck in the wheel wells and all that.
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ok now we're getting somewhere...
thanks for helping
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Was your old car a EA and the newer one a EJ?
no both of them are ea82 N.A.
the current one is a 92 loyale wagon.
and the previous one is a 91 loyale sedan.
the 91 was auto. the 92 is a 5speed.
both of them are 4wd.
i can't figure out how to post a picture of the gaskets here but i got them onto the photo gallery. the photo is named: two different mickey mouse gaskets. sorry but that was the best i could do..
thanks for helping me.
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has anyone else found out the hard way that there's two different mickey mouse gaskets? and is there any way of knowing which one you actually need with out taking the oil pump off?
i just found out yesterday that i got the wrong one. it's slightly bigger and it has a flatter part on one side. i told them i had a 91 loyale when i actually have a 92 loyale (i was thinking of my old car) . i realized my mistake but i let it go because i thought they would be the same anyway. does anyone know if they changed that year or if there were two different oil pumps? or maybe there's an aftermarket one on my car already? who knows?
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is it best to go with an oem fuel filter, or are aftermarket filters just as good?
Don't get one from autozone. i had three of them leak right at the seam as soon as they were installed. they let me exchange them and i ended up putting an aftermarket one on anyway( also from autozone because they were letting me exchange them since they kept being defective). anyway i put one on that didn't really fit "properly" and that one was fine--same size inlet and outlet as it should be but different shape,so it didn't fit into that clip there.
anyway stay away from the autozone ones. even if you eventually get one that works, it won't cost any extra but it still sucks changing those things 4 times in one week!
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cool thanks that what i figured. i just wanted to be sure when the owners manual said "under pressure" it didn't mean a lot of pressure.
thanks all
droo
you really should releive the pressure first. you'll still spray gas everywhere but not even half as bad.. its very easy to relieve the pressure. there's two very similiar ways:
1. disconnect the plug from the fuel pump (under the car on the right side just in front of the tank) then start the car and run it untill it stalls. then crank it for five seconds or so. thats it!
2. the other way is if you know what fuse is for the fuel pump (i don't remember off-hand) but pull the fuse and do the same thing as i already wrote.
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hi i did a search but i was too stupid and/or lazy to find the info i was looking for.. anyway i was wondering what EA-82 models you could get the LSD on. or if there's an EA81 LSD thats easily interchangable. i'm going to the junkyard this weekend and i'm hoping to find one (yeah i know--fat chance). but it would be good to know which ones to not even bother checking. all i know is to not check the FWD models
.and i know the turbo's have a different ratio so i guess thats no good either. or can you just change the pinion and gear from the open diff i already have? -
I came to Subarus after my 1983 Tercel 4wd got stolen and trashed. That was the last year they made the manual shift with the extra-low-first "granny gear" and it was absolutely wonderful.
If anyone knows for sure any other vehicle model and year that has that "Granny gear" setup -- please, let me know!
i had an 1986 tercel wagon with the EL gear... and it was awesome!!
(EL in 4wd only...otherwise a 5 speed)
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Word of warning, the set I got from Autozone lasted less than 100 miles... even the seals were funky. I got Timken this time, they felt heftier and the seals actually sealed... we'll see.
The noise is gone.
I got a set of Timken's from Autozone! works fine
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Quote: Also, why would bump starting it not work?
Quote:
Originally Posted by cndymyfrnd
But, why would it have "just died" as the prior owner was driving it?
Also, why would bump starting it not work?bad alternator maybe. that would cause a dead battery and the engine will die. and if theres no power (from the battery or alternator) then it won't run even if you try to push-start it.
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when i got my 91 loyale the CV joints on both axles had been clicking for almost a year. the people i got it from were getting ready to junk it and didn't want to put money into it,then they stopped driving it and it sat for almost 2 years. then they offered it to me for free if i wanted to fix it. the axles clicked nearly all the time even if you were just going around a corner on a road at like 30 or 40 mph. i replaced them right away when i started driving the car. anyway my point is this: they probably won't fail soon.. so save your money for now but replace them as soon as you can.
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i think the capacitor would still drain. from what i understand they don't hold a charge all that long anyway. but wouldn't the capacitor drain anyway when you shut off the car??(if the radio is wired as an accesory)... it sucks but the best solution is probably to solve the original problem.Here is my dilema: I am kind of an audio "hobbyist", I have my 94 Loyale rigged up to put out some music. The problem is that my Loyale has a fantom electrical leak somewhere, to combat this I put in a simple switch that cut off the ground to my battery. This was all fine and dandy until I bought a 1.5 farad power capacitor to help supply power to my amp when needed. When I switch off the ground for my battery, the power is sucked from my capacitor (a storage unit for power which gives it up very quickly) and my capacitor drops in volts very quickly (not good for a capacitor). If I install a switch on the ground of my capacitor and turn that switch off before I switch off the battery, would the capacitor still drain? Any ideas? TIA -
it probably is the keys .. when they were copied the burrs may not have been removed well enough.. do they feel or look sharper? or do the ramps look steeper especially on the back side(towards the bow-or handle)? if so the problem is the copied keys.
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its true..i had a 91 loyale also (automatic though) . it did bind on pavement in 4wd and it NEVER got stuck in the snow. even if i got plowed in to the top of the wheels (rims not the tires). all i had to do was get the snow off the windows and dig out the door so i could get in. then put it in 4wd and that was it. sucked in FWD though, so you should check it out and see if 4wd is actually working right.Actually, both the brat and the loyale should have open diffs in the axles and no diff or anything in the center. The loyale should bind up when turning on pavement in 4wd because of the difference in speed between the front and rear axles. If it's not, then something might be messed up with the 4wd system. Can you actually verify that the rear wheels are being driven when it's in 4wd?If everything is working right, the Loyale should be able to keep up with the brat in the snow. Well, the brat does have a low range, so maybe not quite, but it should be close.
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No, the front end sits pretty normal and the rear is way higher than other Loyales i have seen. Maybe 1-2 inches higher! i will look to see if the springs have adjusters. Thanks.
Later,
todd
on my 91 loyale theres adjusters at the top of the shocks from what i remember. they adjust the spring preload. theres 3 notches for 3 different heights. its to compensate for worn springs i think. you have to rotate the shock into the notch you need. (i don't know if thats a good enough explanation but maybe somebody else can help too) i think there's only about 1-2 inches of total adjustability though. i don't know if it will make enough difference. but maybe it got new springs and they left it in the "high setting.."
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i think that happened to me too. (91 loyale-auto) it made a clicking sound from under the dash but after trying to troubleshoot the problem...very poorlyIIRC, there is a semi-common problem where the plug under the dash for the ignition circuit overheats and melts, causing problems. I'd take a quick look around for anything obvious, and hopefully someone else more knowledgable can chime in.
i gave up and installed a starter button in the dash. very easy to do and i never had a problem after that.
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yeah and if you take out a front halfshaft and go rear wheel drive*(in the ea81/82 generation)* you can do brakestand burnouts with a manual tranny by holding the front wheelsi would almost prefer to have them in the front just to add on to their already confused look when they see the spair. "The e-brake locks up the front tires too." "What!?" lol
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yup i think sohmmm alternator?
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i don't have any now but i know the windows will interchange between loyale and dl/gl cars. i had a loyale sedan. someone broke the front passenger window and i repalced it with one from a gl wagon. don't remember if it was manual tho.Don't know why, they didn't steal anything. I had a bunch of craftsman tools, maglight and a nice head-unit all there for the taking. So I guess it could have been worse. Anyway, what years will the passenger side front door glass interchange with a '86 GL wagon? Will Loyale glass fit? I've got manual windows. Can I use glass from a car with electric windows? Anybody got one for sale they'd like to ship?
Detroit Lockers, and Subaru's
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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what about locking hubs? if you were to weld the diff but be able to have the rear hubs --or at least of them freewheel then you could drive it on roads and lock the hub for off-road use. may be an more possible than a detriot locker type diff. but i don't know where to get/how to make locking hubs for a subaru.