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wrw166

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Everything posted by wrw166

  1. ++++++++++++++ if 4WD has any advantage they will outlaw it or put it in another class ++++++++++++++
  2. +++++++++++++++? How about using thick head gsk? +++++++++++++++
  3. ++++++++++++++++++++++ just can't bring myself to post this in the tech forum......but I've been making progress on my 1980 rat's nest of vauum tubes! i've isolated each device: distributor; vacuum control module for the coasting bypass valve in the carburetor; EGR; antibackfire valve. All temp control valves and solenoids bypassed for now. Here's the breakthru: I use drip irrigation 1/4 inch tubing "flag" emmiters as inline vacuum tube orifices. i use 4gallon per hour (4gph), 8gph, and 16gph. By driving around with a big vacuum guage in the windshield i connect and disconnect each device separately in order to become familiar with each devices' funtion and then regulate it's operation. By this method I've adjusted the vacuum control module for the coasting bypass valve, limited the maximum opening of the "EGR, and made the antibackfire valve operate as intended (this one is trickey because it uses a regulating dual diaphram control sytem similar to the distributor. to increase the antibackfire effect you restrict the upper hose with a smaller orifice.. These devices are no longer a mystery and i have found many cracked hoses. comments welcome
  4. ++++++++++++++++++++ i put fwd strut tubes on my 1980 4wd. they were koni adjustable from: DCS consulting: 1755 Mission Rd., 2nd FloorSouth San Francisco, CA 94080+1220US Main Phone: (650) 756-3533Fax : (650) 756-5533Wholesale distributor of Koni obsolete and discontinued Koni shock absorbers. Exporter to Australia. +++++++++++++++++++++++ they were old stock and 2 for $17.50 on ebay. they sold me a third for $5. the first on i instlled clunked. so i had to take it apart and put a spacer between the inset and the bottom of the tube ( a 1" junk brass nut) now they're fine. a little too stiff at 1/2 setting. these things arn't too mysterious. i'd try any Subaru stuff. stay awayfrom Monroe! hope ths is helpful. ++++++++++++++++++++++++
  5. I have been using GOOP for just about everything...... ++++++++++++++++ Its'been two months. Goop is still holding on the boot. No grease coming thru. ++++++++++++++++
  6. Put in new fr axle and had difficulty. Loosened sway bar bolts. After turning and twisting the axle I found to my mucho consternation that I had ripped the new boot! from the bolt heads. Also reluctant to remove axle again because the threads are getting thin. I have been useing GOOP for just about everything. It retains some elasticity as it hardens into its final congealed and contracted state. Have cleaned boot with carb cleaner and applied several thin coats to speed drying. Later after a little grease came out had to glob on some more but now it's holding at 70mph. Actually there is more stress turning sharp corners when boot is cold. I think this would make a good off-road repair if you can wait a few hours for it to dry. At least it slows down grease loss and minimizes cleanup. Home Depot-$5
  7. Try DCS Consulting in San Francisco. Overstocked Konis. (on EBay) DCS1755@sbcglobal.net (650-756-3533) If they have them they will be cheap. I bought two for $17.50 and they threw in a third for $5. good luck. Very helpful people.
  8. Found it. The fuse is behind the fuse block. Label on it, in English, too! Right next to the fuel pump fuse. Thanks all for the help.
  9. Screwing around with a screwdriver and blew fuse or something on choke heater element-1980. Fuses ckeck out. now what? Help apprec. Why did i buy these Haynes manuals anyway?
  10. Let's keep this alive! Fugi Heavy industries might have made some military vehicles for export using Subaru parts. How's your Japanese? Along the lines of disengaging one rear axle: Chevvy S-10 used a vacuum- shifted spline sleeve. What a concept--turning spider gears for a zillion miles.
  11. Yeah. P 914 would work too, but face only a mother could love.
  12. Haynes is not helping me here. Is the inner shock cartridge removeable on the '78-80's? I'm getting some Koni's from a 2wd and I wonder if I can install them in my '80 4wd. Also wondering if grease seal replacement on transaxle is straight forward?
  13. The engine was installed in the middle with stock dif. and modified saginaw 4sp tranny. The corvair (sag) end-cap was removed and a modified (sag) input shaft intalled(from most any Chevvy trans). The modification was to internally machine the shaft to the dimensions of the corvair shaft and install the needle brgs. There was about a 3/16 plate betwee the bell housing and the trans which provided motor mounts and "collared" the t.o.b. snout which replaced the old corvair end-cap. There were 4 roll pin holes drilled thru the plate and the cast iron trans to provide allignment and as described the integrity was dependent upon the snout which was bolted to the cast iron trans--but was never cast with the idea of providing strength. Corvette could have had a decent mid-engine set-up at any time merely by having Saginaw cast the 4sp Chevelle trans with the "ears" on the back end like the Corvair. The trans and differential were strong. This set up was long and heavy, however, compared to an alloy transaxle. my failures were due to hittng curbs in autocrosses. and due to mis-aligned adapter plate holes during contruction. The kit from Crown Mfg was drag raced successfully (w/o breaking) with big blocks. The competition in ice racing was stiff with: shortened Corvette auto; Chevvy Healy; Ford MGB; Porsche, Jeep Quadritrac tubeframe. I moved on to a turbo X1/9. (smaller class.) Moral: there's alot more to building a mid-engined car than the engine placement. Driving the car at night when you punched it, the headlights were in the tree-tops. Noise was deafening what with the crank pulley right about where your kidneys are! Subie conversion would leave room for decent seats and engine cover. The Crown kit had Fibreglas seat and engine cover. I don't think we had ur. foam back then but it would have helped alot.(around 1978)
  14. I put a 327 corvette motor in a '66 corvair some years ago for ice racing. It was heavy and the tranny broke alot. But the car wasn't bad. A flat six 5-speed with low center of gravity and light weight would be better. The car could be lightened up instead of being made heavier. Radiator was easy to install (used Ford GT40 style hood ducts) Last summer i met a guy from indiana who has a couple of Yenko Stingers. He said there is a surprising following for corvairs and many speedparts are available on the cheap. Tires and wheels are chevvy 5-bolt. Cool street machine?
  15. Maybe no vacuum advance. BTW what did removing the front sway bar buy you? There used to be a St Joseph hospital in FBKS-born there. Still got a Lathrop High?
  16. Tne dash of my 1980 DL wagon says "ready for......AC" Does that mean that the evaporator is in there? or just the ducting and vnt controls.
  17. welcome. I would like to assume that you mean "hop-up" modifications and that your EA71 is carbureted. I'd like to know those answers, too. My 1980 1600 cc has much more power now than when I bought it. In the dark the spark plug wires GLOWED all over the place and also I made the mistake of putting in some used dual platinum spark plugs. They looked great, but were addding greatly to the resistance. Champion has a copper core spark on sale now for 1 $ and they, along with new wires cap and rotor and coil wire, have increased performance. ByTheWay, i'm measuring performance by low end torque, not high revs. My stick shift really lugs well. When i upshift the car accelerates as tho it had a larger engine. A small roots supercharger would be cool. could use stock carb and exhaust.(but it would protrude)
  18. Thanks for the reply Sweet 82. I guess there's no simple solution (for trying to have it all). The 1600 has surprising torque--better than VWs that I remember. But then my memory's shot. Good coil and wires helped. I'll try to pick up a d/r 4sp for simplicities sake and let it go at that. Salt Lake is like being neighbors. would be interested in what kind of off -road you're doing. wrw
  19. Acoupla of years ago I gave a gal my phone # if she ever wanted to sell nice little DL wagon. Well..Ive have had it for a few month's now and it's not quite what I expected. Mech its just a 1600. I use it for Home depot and other shopping--don't run around much anymore. But I'm not done running the fire trails in the mountains and desert washes. My friend from Ore came down and we went back in where the Atv's go. The little car did herself proud. Let the mind wander and visions of dual range tranny, EA81, 14's,etc. Have I got this right (from archives)? a d/r tranny 5sp is bigger tunnel-wise and shorter requiring new d/shaft and shifter stuff. Is there a d/r 4sp available that will fit with existing d/shaft? EA81 will bolt in with top starter but clutch disk splines must match old trans. Motor mounts? BTW what is LSD? Can this nice rust-free car be modified for a little crawling without sacrificing street use? And historic value. There's a whole lot more to this than meets the eye! Maybe I need two Subaroos--but they've just about outlawed having a fleet of vehicles what with ins, smog, license plate return, zoning ordinances, etc. This all boils down to torque, tires, gear ratios all in a vintage car--and you guys have all been there. any advice seriously considered.
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