uniberp

Can anyone definitively recommend a competent shop in Grand Rapids, MI to do a simple timing belt/tensioner change on a '99 2.5 SOHC, and have it done, with a receipt, finished in one day? I'd do it, but my plate is full. Thanks.

The carfax for VIN JF1SF635XYH731667 shows a DOHC. Is Carfax wrong? "2.5L H4 PFI DOHC 16V" Thanx

Thanks. They have "progressive" springs for the front, but lowered. There may not be such an item.

I don't agree that a bolt elongated past it's elastic range is reusable. When that occurs, the thread pitch will no longer match it's purchase, and that cause a smaller region of contact, hence, less strong connection. Whether Subaru has enough overbuild in the headbolt/case connection, IDK.

'97 Outback 5-speed 150k miles. Time to tighten up the suspension. Are there progressive springs for stock height available anywhere? Any particulary rewarding bushing replacements? Are there Bilstein Touring class shocks for these cars? New balljoints, struts, tires are going in as well. Will 215/70 (1os)tires generally clear all mounts? No slammed or jacked recommendations please. Just looking for a better riding/handling all-weather highway commuter.:cool:

From my experience, there is negligible difference in gas mileage between tire sizes. Driving style is the biggest factor in gas mileage, bar none. Tire pressure is second. Wider tires may give better wet braking but may also not, if the tread design or compound is different. Also, a general rule in rally (Subie drivers seem to look at rally, for some reason), is that snow tires are substantially narrower than dry tires. They cut through snow more easily, I guess. I have found narrow snow tires to work the best, myself. There are a variety of factors involved in the tire size: circumference, contact patch, sidewall stiffness, rubber compound, tread dynamics, et. al. Any tire that emphasized any one of these factors would fail in others to the point that the maker couldn't afford the liability. Ideally the maximum gas mileage tire would be like a high pressure bicycle tire: 1" wide and 150psi, but there would be a tradeoff in other areas, like traction. For me, the biggest factor is ride. The tire itself contributes greatly to the smoothness and quietness of the ride, but smooth, quiet tires seem to be made of softer compounds, and do not seem to last as long. Again, that may (is) due to driving style. Subaru AWD requires exactly matching circumferences, and may warrant an expensive tire that will hold it's shape over the life. I am choosing new tires now also. I have been very happy with Delta/Arizonan house brands at Suburban or Discount (Chicagoland) on other cars, but my OB came with Michelin Symmetrys, which I know to be pricey. Anoother thing I want, since it's so important to gas mileage, is a pressure monitoring system, but those are $250+.

Even though tis is an old thread, you might still be around. Okay, I understand that knock isn't always audible, but what is likely the problem is the CEL light goes on after a few miles, and the only code returned indicates the knock sensor. Does that mean the sensor is faulty, or thata the engine is knocking unacceptably? The car doesn't seem to de-tune, and the light stays on until the car sits off for a bit, which I understand is the standard reset. I will try the injector cleaner. Do you recommend SeaFoam? Tanx. Mpergiel, Elmhurst, IL

Well, it seem heat related, and I would suspect the starter (solenoid part), because the resistance in the windings goes 'way up with heat, and it won't give enough field to pull the primary contacts closed. So I say starter.

Some say avoid the DOHC engines, came in 96-99 some models, due to head gasket or head water seal problems. I think a switch was in 99 back to SOHC for the 2.5

What do you think? Can anyone tell by the angle of that right front wheel what all is busted there? I don't see huge rust holes, but it is in Indiana. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1984-Subaru-Brat_W0QQitemZ7990543780

Thanks. The straightforward approach is appreciated. I'll get my tools, time, and nerve together. That and a diagram and I should be able to get through pretty confidently.

I'm looking at parts online for the complete 105,000 mile maintenance replacement of the cam belt on my 1999 SOHC ForestrL, and I will need to do the cam and crankshaft seals also. Will I need any special pullers for the gears? Please review the list of parts below for any omissions and advise me. 2 cam seals $14 1 crank seal $7-8 1 Timing Belt $71 1 Tensioner $123 1 Idler - upper right $46 1 Idler - lower right $31 Do I need to replace the cam and crank sprockets? (Prices are from drivewire) Who would offer the best price on these parts? Is there a concise procedure written up anywhere, specific to the 1999 SOHC? Thanks in advance. Mpergiel99foresterLelmhurstil

How is a boxer inherently more leaky? I understand the consumption, oil not draining thoroughly at power off, and collecting possibly somewhat more in cam galleys, but why leakage? Is there more stretch from piston top to piston top? If it's the aluminum thing, then it's not the boxer design.

I suspect that what happened was that you battery drained low enough to turn off the alarm system, as if you disconnected the battery. When power comes back, like reconnecting the battery, the alarm is armed automatically, and must be reset with the little plunger switch under the dash. Hold it about 15 seconds WITH THE KEY IN ON POSITION and the door locks cycle, then the alarm is reset and the ignition then works. The dead battery is a sign that you have a bad connection or that you may need an alternator. The fact that it started right up with sufficient charge indicates a very weak battery, which points to poor charging. Check all your primary connections.

You got to watch the HTML encoding on links.... Try: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1992_FSM_(Engine_&_Electrical)/

Is there a list of reviewed indie subaru mechanics anywhere in here? I'm lookign for one in GR Michigan, or between there and Chicago.

My list of order of merit: Factory Manual Haynes General Automotive Diagnostic/Repair book User Manual Phone Book Superman #38 Torn piece of cardboard Chilton

PII 2.5 subes have roller rockers? Very impressive. Thanks for the pic, but now I need to know how they're oiled. If they are splash oiled, that would easily explain the startup tapping, to me. Feeding oil down the rocker and into the bearing would be micro-work. I thought about the alloy block and head, but that doesn't cover it. Expansion would make the valve train looser. I'm increasingly impressed by these engines.

Not from an expert, but is there a snap ring around the end of the transmission end stub? You may just be up against that, and it may take a tap to get it in. Or perhaps the ring came off when you pulled the shaft out of the tranny. It may be blocking the re-insertion. Pull that shaft again and have a look, I'd think. Pull by the innermost collar, if you can, so as not to pull thee shaft apart.

Any issues since then?

Why do people say "solid lifters' about Subaru OHC engines? I'm new to Subaru engines. Are there actually lifters either between the rocker and cam or between the lifter and valve? I thought that, in a shim-adjusted OHC valve train, there were no 'lifters' to speak of. Can anyone show me a tech diagram of the valve train of a '99 SOHC phaseII 2.5. Thanks. mpergiel99foresterlelmhurstil

The "lots of smoke" came from the diff dipstick, which dropped it's o-ring when pulled. It blurped a good amount out the filler hole, and again, right onto the cat. I thought it was a lot looser when I put it back in. Only one of the several mistakes I've made with this car so far.

Thanks all, blitz, gravityman for the encouragement. I've never burnt a valve (that way). These engines are new to me. The mechanic said there were no other codes, and he's very competent from our previous experience. I don't doubt he'll clear them (30 min, batt disconnect) and run a new scan. I'm waiting to hear the 'final' report. I still can't believe someone would pull a stunt like that, removing the 'check engine" bulb. My worst fears is that the new knock sensor will report knock to the ECU, even though I cannot hear it. Or that the distributor (do they have distributors) or ECU is whacked out (not likely, still runs). The engine seems strong, even with the retard. My girlfriend is an 'exuberant' driver, so I was grateful it was a little pokey. We're crazy about the car. When he calls (I hate to badger him since he took it as emergency), I'm going to ask him to pull the plugs, if just to make sure they come out (not 'fused' to the head). I want him to do a compression or leak-down test, also. Right now I'm entertaining in worst fears and feeling stupid for not seeing the obvious in front of my face. I'm trailing the previous owners (smilingly) and hope to tell whoever did that how bad a thing that was to do. Instructionallly.

I had to kick HARD the tops of the tires, even after I just took them of 10 minutes before. I think as long as you hit the tire, and not the rim, you should be able to use even a sledge hammer. Don't slip. Be very careful.