unibrook

I am already over 60k (around 75k now) so I guess I won't get the 5/60k coverage, but that is a good idea to those still covered. I might try to rig a heat shield. I will post if I come up with a decent design. Otherwise the car is running great, and the clock fix still is working fine.

Anyone ever tried to get Subaru to pay for the passenger inside front axle boot/axle replacement since it splits due to poor design of putting the boot right above the exhaust system?

Johngenx you rule! Thanks for solving that mystery. My bro (a mechanic) and I couldn't figure out why the inside passenger front axle boot would be first to crack open when the others seem perfectly intact. Chalk it up to a design flaw....one of the few for our 2001 Forester, along with the clock resistor. Have you or anyone tried to rig up a heat shield to prevent the recurring axle boot cracking due to the heat?

Hmmm...can't figure this one out. 2 months ago, I bought a used Forester with 75k and a clean Carfax report. Driver's side front tire has excessive outer edge wear. When I stand in front of car and compare looking at the two front wheels, it appears that this wheel has positive camber. Is there any sort of an adjustment that I can do to it to straighten it out? Thx, unibrook.

Grossgary has the right idea. This will be least muss and fuss. My bro and I did our '82 GL wagon bearings all the way around. It is doable. Go slow, be careful...you will get there.

Please do a search on this. Gets discussed quite often. Yes, you can put it in AT only. Yes you can drive long distances and periods of time with fuse in. Seems to be no prob. ciao.

Thanks to Pal.Rider photo and others input, I pulled out my overhead digi-clock from my 2001 Forester L and fixed it. I was at first surprised to see that the tiny flat rectangle shaped resistor labeled 500 was still in place with intact solders at each side. But I went ahead and scraped the solders a bit to see if any cracks were apparent, still could not see any...but a magnifying glass would have been a help, and I didnt have one. I just went ahead and fired up the soldering iron and melted fresh solder on top of the old solder joints and figured, it can't hurt. I reinstalled the clock in the car, and it has worked perfectly ever since. Who knows, maybe just the action of sliding on and off the wire harness and the fuse improved those connections and made it work. Electronics guru guy at work said it is possible for the old solder joints to look perfectly intact, but for them to be "compromised inside" and thus fooling your eye.