koolminx

I am going to redo all the tests this morning along with putting my original crank sensor back into it and a new piece that mounts to the firewall right at the center and it says something like power fire or power train unit or something just for shits and giggles am adding that to it as well

I am going to redo all the tests this morning along with putting my original crank sensor back into it and a new piece that mounts to the firewall right at the center and it says something like power fire or power train unit or something just for shits and giggles am adding that to it as well

I am going to redo all the tests this morning along with putting my original crank sensor back into it and a new piece that mounts to the firewall right at the center and it says something like power fire or power train unit or something just for shits and giggles am adding that to it as well

I am going to redo all the tests this morning along with putting my original crank sensor back into it and a new

I'm checking out that PDF on my computer and it's not the same one that was linked earlier in this thread so I'm going to work with that tomorrow thank you very much General

Or maybe I got those numbers opposite but either way there one digit apart

Our ecm's are one number off I'm going to get the production date of this car tomorrow. You have a 414, i have a 415....

OK pics of ECM sticker. Last pic is of the diagram as provided in a link from a PDF 3 days ago for the 95 Legacy... Someone said check certain pins, and many of mine are blank where the positions of checking were supposed to happen, for instance the red constant power pin is near pin 46 to 48, I forgot and it's raining so I'm not going to go look at this time until something is cleared up, like the ID of my ECU.... Thanks for any suggestions before I go back out in the rain to OHM my cam and crank sensors...

But I really want to and I really should because I don't want my son driving my damn Vehicles LOL

Will do I have a working crank sensor and a working cam sensor both on its way to me from my friends running and driving car and the ironic thing is the crank sensor is the one that was originally out of my car LOL it's back at the house now and in all this rain and no bull crap I've been doing today I mean I get to any pictures or diagnosis is today

Oh yes I am well aware of that. I decided to change my angle of attack after changing the coil out yesterday and not getting any spark that was regular it did spark just not on every compression stroke so I'm going to go through wiring excetera but I'm also going to Ohm out my crank sensor and my cam sensor because since she won't run she won't set a code that I can read

I am on my way now with the trailer to pick this damn car up and bring it back to the house and I will read all the stickers off of the computer and tell you what they say then I'll use my PC to downsize these pictures and I will put them on this post

This is killing me the file is too big to upload I can't resize through my phone and this website won't allow a standard phone photograph to upload but I can tell you all of the pins on the back of the ECM that are missing wires Ordo just not used.... Which means the PDF file I downloaded all the hundred and forty four pages several of which do not affect my 95 Legacy Brighton at all and I just performed the carb cleaner spray test to no avail

Pissed off... My wiring diagram as shown in the PDF download that one of the gentleman gave me does not show any pins whatsoever and spots 4241 and 40 have nothing 14 and 13 have nothing in them at all spots 68 and 94 have nothing... What the heck? How do I try all of these pins that I've been suggested if some of them do not exist in my PCM plug-in?

If I take the tube off completely how will it idle with no air flowing through the mass airflow sensor?

Yes I find that Odd as well but seeing as how there are no damaged wiring harnesses and no damage to any of the electrical that I can find I will give the carb cleaner a shot this morning when I go to pick it up with my trailer. I will also do a voltage test to those pins in my ECM

Me and electrical diagrams do not get along well when there are no pages to fold out and follow the line directly from say the injectors positive wire in the injectors signal wire back to the ECU

I quite literally did that when I jumped a positive from the battery straight to the starter with the key in the on position back to the off position and back to the crank position with no results to the Noid light or to the car itself other than cranking.... Does anybody know which pins on the ECM to probe for a ground sequence for the injectors?? It's PDF download really did not help me all that much

https://vimeo.com/249961789 Here it is, the noid light should flash on every injection which should happen every compression stroke.... Here's another video, doing it twice, but same results, unfortunately at this time I was down to 11 volts even, and KNOWING this subee, it's started with only 10.5 volts several times recently, but still, the injector signal only happens when the key is released, and I tested the 4 wires on the ignition switch and they're performing perfectly, so I reckon I need to charge up, and find an ECM to borrow and see if that's the culprit the entire time and that it's finally bitten the dust unless there are some tests any of you all can describe for me to follow to ensure it's bnot simply something I'm overlooking or a relay I havent tested yet, which I don't think there are any that cause this specific malady.... https://vimeo.com/249962653

Ignition switch.. Any suggestions on where to host a 4 second video in MP4 format so you all can see it?

Hey general, went over ECu with magnifying glass and reading glasses, it is in fantastic condition and no signs of even dust ever being on it.... I'm trying to upload a picture and a video, someone said I should have a 5 wire ign switch but it's only 4 with a 4 pin plug, and I took a short 5 second video of the cranking and release where the ground pulse to the injector causes the noid flash only after the key is released...

I apologize for my frustration... I REALLLLLLY miss a good old carburetor, points and condenser and coil setup right now....

I cannot understand this damn wiring diagram in this PDF file it does not show me which wire's go to which pins for the signal at the ECM to open the injectors for the ground signal comes from this is just killing me

If that were the case the car would not have done this for the last 3 months in a row lol. The timing has not slip the timing belt is new, under 10,000 miles. Tell me which pins to check the ECU for power if you will. This car has more grounds than any car I've seen and they are all clean and there are even extra ones somebody put in before i got it... I'm going to read through this PDF download of all of the internal Runnings of this car and find out where that damn pulse signal gets its information from when it has a good working cam sensor and crank sensor the mass airflow sensor is also good there's got to be more in direct link to the ecm sending the ground signal to the injectors.... and I'm not worried about the throttle position sensor, weather bad or good unplugged or plugged in they will not prevent the car from starting they will prevent it from idling normal when they go bad

Do not know which pins operate the injectors but I do know that the computer is not sending the ground signal to the injectors while the engine is cranking