koolminx

Well the video won't attach either and it was only 4 seconds long the Noid light flashes twice after the key is released as the engine stops I do not know what that indicates

I have a video to attach for the damn files too big it shows starting to crank in the Noid light flashing after the key is released and also put a new ignition coil on it nothing the ignition switch is working properly and so is the crank sensor in the cam sensor and there is fuel pressure

I took a picture of the four wire ignition switch and it's too big to upload to this damn site so I'm frustrated I have 4 wires the power feed wire and 3 others. The power feed wire is black with a white stripe. Key on power is the bottom wire and the top wire the top wires black with a blue stripe and while cranking all of them light up except the black one with the blue stripe which stops lighting up when I start cranking is that the one that needs power?

Hey boys... like i said, Four wire ignition switch..... looking right at it. Still no pulse to injectors while cranking

Yes getting spark... no pulse to injector until key released... I tgen jumpered starter, still no nois flash...

I will double check I could have swore it was for when I replaced the switch

And the injectors are getting 12 volts with key on and during crank

Quick update. There is cranking volts getting to pin 81 on the ECM during cranking but with the key simply on there is a voltage drop at Penn 81. I am not getting spark at the moment which is one of the new tests that I redid so I'm going to replace ignition coil once again and see what happens and keep you informed

I am taking my multimeter and a spare battery and other tools this morning to retreive the car along with the all the wiring info I can get. I will defeat this gremlin,. Thank you guy's I'll let ya know what happens, or you'll see the smoke from the car fire in the sky over gig harbor caused by a small 5 gallon fuel leak....

I have in the past but not while the Noid light was hooked up. It had no effect on starting whether the throttle position sensor new the throttle is open or the mass airflow sensor knew that there was more air passing none of those changed anything

I'm going to go fetch the car in the morning I'll let you know what happens

That was one of the first things I did the day I got the car and started having this issue then I said to hell with it and replace the fuel pump I have 36 PSI from 3 seconds after I turn the key on for eternity

Regardless of temperature once this engine fires over it has absolutely zero issues whatsoever I mean it's like its brand-spanking-new

Awesome, will do that when my effing son comes back from the store with my car after he left his friggin subaru 10 miles away at another store..... And hes been gone over 2 hours to go buy one item.... Ugh, old rump roast kids...

Unless it technically is in the splice as somebody described earlier

When I get that PDF download I'm going to trace every single wire from the ignition switch power distribution and crank signal distribution and then start probing and testing to find out where I'm losing continuity between the ignition and the PCM because it is not the crank signal cuz that's just 12 volts to the solenoid

So maybe it's time for a new ignition switch again LOL

Yes, I totally agree but it should pulse while the engine is cranking otherwise the ground signal coming from the computer is not reaching its destination and that is where my problem lies is it one of the four wires from the ignition switch or is it the splice from the ignition crank signal to the ECM or other?

Incorrect I must have Miss stated. The Noid light would flash when the key was let go and the engine did it spinal rotation it did not happen all the time and the engine would not start up immediately it would take some more cranking when it decided to but the only time the motor would start up was after it had flashed once letting the key up so I'm going to follow that ignition wiring

Utilizing the Noid light does tell you if there is voltage to the injector because without the voltage pulse being grounded by the PCM or ECM the Noid light would not Flash or am I missing something in my small brain of electric knowledge :-)

As soon as I get back to my PC I will download that PDF and start tracing wires thank you guys very much this forum is awesome

Thank you ill try that

There's only one wire going to my starter solenoid and there's not one coming off so are you saying that in the crank signal delivery from the ignition switch there is a wire that is joined with the crank signal wire that goes to the PCM?

Out of the four wires in the ignition switch which one sends power to the ECU I can trace everything from that point forward

The car was originally wired very similar to that had a toggle switch for the start to crank signal but even then the car was failing to start for me so what I will do is I will find out what my ignition Powers up initially and trace it from there I guess. I took the ECU out yesterday and I inspected every square inch and nothing seems to have ever been overheated all the circuits are in fantastic appearing condition.