dpoppeli

I suppose the old transmission is worth something but that still probably makes the material cost close to $2k and then there is still the labor if not taken on as a DIY project.

Ditto on clutch riding. I know the previous owner rode it and we replaced it at around 60k! I was amazed. We'll see how long the replacement lasts. I tow loaded trailers of firewood in hilly terrain. I wish I had the low-range that the Australians get in theirs.

I'd at least check online OEM price at 1st Subaru parts. Their website doesn't work at the moment but I assume they're still in business.

Those are nice articles. Was hoping someone would say "...the wiring is already in place, just need a new oem mirror and install a switch"

Any further news on this? I've got a '99 Forester on which I would like to install a heated driver-side mirror.

2002 outback. The driver-side floor mat has never been adequately held in place by the hook and I'm worried about safety since it tends to walk right under the gas and brake pedals. Dealer said that he wasn't aware of any re-design on the part but don't know if I trust him since I know Subaru had an issue with the 2005 hook (bulletin #12-83-04). Anyone else have this issue with an 02?

May be related to the uncomfortable seats. Things seem to be designed for a slightly smaller average person. Perhaps we ought to get use to it though - I can't see the continued use of gas to hall all that extra sheet-metal around. "My only knock on the car is that the clutch and brake pedals seem a little too close to each other (at least compared to my 97 Maxima). Other than that, I really liked the car. "

Seems like it ought to be here, under "free publications" and "accessory installation" but I didn't find it. Good luck.... http://techinfo.subaru.com

Try this: http://www.bandbhobbies.com/jwebb/vin_test.asp

Warning to all: I recently "inherited" a Ford and the wipers stopped working. After replacing the multifunction switch with no improvement, I took apart the grill cover to see what was wrong and discovered a few *gallons* of nuts and assorted debirs (yuck) packed into the linkage area. This had caused the shaft connection from the motor to strip and so now I'm looking at a new (junkyard) motor assembly even though the old motor works. Darn critters. When I reassemble I'm definitely leaving some mouse/rabbit repellent pellets in there. Since I haven't had the car that long not sure if the critter infestation happened previously or parked in my drive. In any case I'm now encouraging the cat to get outside and do her rounds.. maybe it will help if I feed her less!

Your profile doesn't mention year or make. You have to remove the whole bloody guard to do an oil change on my 99 forester but it's mainly held on by bolts. There are two side connections which seem optional... I use to wire-tie these points and after a while didn't bother since it seemed to stay without them. The '02 outback has a little access port for oil changes which makes life easier - If memory serves there are a couple of plastic fasteners here but I thought they were captive? Anyway, have you tried Autozone/Pep-boys ?

Wow, I didn't think you could get a reader for under $100. That's what I've seen them for at Walmart. I would confirm the codes with Autozone as another person said.

Huh?

If I'm correct, I think the question is more whether a second applciation at some point is required because the old stuff "wears out" and whether more goop in the cooling innards is needed or even detrimental. Seems like at very least a tranmission flush agent before refilling would be a good idea.

I'm curious too. What does the dealer say?

Some dielectric (spark-plug boot) grease will probably fix that problem.

Well my wife got rear-ended in her 02 outback at 15 mph or so. The woman that did it disappeared after following my wife into the parking lot (we'll never see her again). The bumper is shoved up and on one side one of the clips is visible and a little deformed but possibly reusable. The other side didn't get pushed up as much. The bumper face is pretty clean and can probaly be re-used so I'm thinking just the "energy absorber" piece underneath needs to be replaced. Anybody know costs to have this done or have they done it themselves? I notice a price of $174 from 1st Subaru for the energy absorber.

No answer from the Legacy folks although plenty of vacation pix over there . I think "U5" is California spec vehicle... more stringent emissions. Anyway, got my manual. Wish I would have had the time to get the "Mechanism and Function" sections but I only got to the engine specific sections of those before time ran out. If anyone has these, I would be interested.

2005 Outback automatic with standard 4 cylinder. I'm doing this for a family member so don't have the VIN offhand. I should ask the Subaru folks but I'm a little perturbed with this 20 PDF's an hour crap. I guess you get what you pay for. The U5 designation appears to be more then just the engine... differences are just in engine and emissions sections I believe, otherwise manual appears to be the same.

Downloading the engine manual from Subaru. The base 4 cyl engine is listed as H4SO but then there is a H4SO U5 variation as well. Anybody know the difference?

blip

I understand that horsepower is all in where you measure it. That's pretty elementary. What I was throwing out there was what appears to be 28% in drivetrain losses (maybe more - do manufacturers really rate engine HP at 5800 rpm ... who the hell revs there engine that high??) and how this might compare across the subaru line and maybe even lower loss front-wheel or rear wheel cars.

Subaru advertises that engine as 250HP (not sure what RPM although they state torque at 4200 rpm). Your 180 HP wheel HP is a 28% difference. Wonder if that's typical across the board for newgen Subarus?

BMW trunk batteries... http://e30m3performance.com/installs/installs-2/sm_batt/sm_batt.htm

$34.95 for 72 hours of access to their manuals.... http://techinfo.subaru.com/html/referenceHome.jsp