BushmasterSI

Back in April, my 99 OBW EJ25D (2.5 DOHC) with 150k overheated on a trip. It was low on coolant and I topped it off and drove for a while. It overheated on another trip. I was afraid that I was starting to develop the HG problem. It progressed to the point that i was adding 1/2 liter of coolant per day and the car wasn't reliable. Last week it threw a code, started running poorly, and was slow to start. I've got a temporary car and am now planning on doing my first HG job. I read that the factory HG develops this problem at about this age. Will an OEM replacement not develop the same problem? Have they fixed it? I recently read in a engine rebuilding book that copper HGs are one of the better types because they conform to the imperfections on the mating surfaces. Has anybody used copper performance gaskets? Do you think they're better/more reliable than OEM? I just want the car for daily driving.

Really? I haven't seen those. Anyhow, I'm happy with the FSM.

I agree. I tried Haynes with some of my past cars and wasn't too impressed so I tried Chilton's with my Loyale and wasn't impressed either. Both were lacking in diagnosis and in electronics. When I got my OBW I tried AutoZone's AllDataDIY online subscription service. It was ok, but it still lacked the diagnostic flowcharts and extensive electrical schematics. I just downloaded the FSM from SOA. It's what I've been looking for. BWY, is this shown in the FSM? I spent a little time looking at the engine/trans/clutch sections and didn't see it. Do you know what section it's on in the FSM? Thanks again!

Thanks. I guess I'll just use a vice or c-clamp too.

I haven't had a chance to look on my car yet, but could anyone shed a little more light on this? Where's the access hole? Is this access hole on 2.5 DOHC auto trans engines? Is the screwdriver going into the flywheel teeth? Thanks, I'll look on my car as soon as I get off work.

(99 OBW 2.5 DOHC EJ25 Auto trans) I'm researching changing my timing belt and the FSM says to press the rod back into the Automatic belt tension adjuster assy. Has anyone done this? Do most of you replace this when you change the tbelt? Also, have you pressed it using a vice? The FSM says only to use a vertical hydrolic press, not a horizontal vise. I'm thinking of using a vice turned vertically. Thanks in advance.

I think that they say this because this is a common issue with these cars and Fuji should issue a tsb or whatever and pick up the tab for replacing these due to defects in materials. After reading up on this issue, it seems like they had a bad batch cause so many people have this problem with cars near this year. Also note how the majority if not all have broken at the same spot.

The stabilizer bar on my 99 OBW broke Friday when I was pulling out of a gas station. It broke right after the bend on the drivers side. I was turning right and gave it about 40% throttle to get into traffic. There was a drop from the parking lot onto the road and as the left wheel absorbed the bump and I accelerated, I hear a load pop and felt like something hit the floorboard. In the pics, you can see it on the car and after I removed it. After removing it, the car sure wallows and rolls a lot! I saw that someone had theirs welded. Has anyone else gone this route? I'm thinking of this, since I can't find any in salvage yards and I don't have $100 now.

I did a little searching and found this on another forum. I think I will try cleaning the contacts and make sure that it is grounded. http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t408416.html

x_25, did you get your instrument cluster changed? How easy was it? I also have a 99 Outback and I just started having the same problem. The speedometer and odometer stop working intermittently. I don't have a manual because I used ADDIY, canceled, and am going to download the FSM from Subaru. How is the instrument cluster, speedometer, set up? Is it a mechanical cable, or a sending unit and gauge type of thing? Thanks for the info!

This isn't my car, it's from the gallery. I can't quite tell if that's it, but what I'm talking about is the triangular thing you can see behind and to the left of the shock strut.

It's not a heat sheild. It's on both sides. I'll have to post some pics, but it is a piece of the body and runs down vertically allong the outside edge of the fender/subframe and extends past the bottom of the fender/subframe.

When changing my axles in my 90 Loyale I had a clearance problem with a piece of sheet metal. It's a piece of the body metal that comes down from the inside of the fender in a triangle shape and has a hole in it that the brake line runs through. I bent it up and out of the way to make room for the boot as the axle came out and back in. Does anybody know why that's there? It doesn't seem to do any real purpose. Has anybody ever hacksawed it off? It would make future axle jobs a whole lot easier IMHO.

Thanks!

BTW, it's a 90 Loyale

Hi all, I am in the process of changing axles for the first time (on any car) on my Loyale. I'm following Edrach's instructions and when I came the the time to torque all the loosened fasteners I broke a bolt. It's the "pivot bolt" from the lower control arm, or the control arm-to-subframe retainer bolt as my Chilton manual calls it. I looked up the torque value in the manual and it said to torque it to 78 ft-lbs. It's only a 14 mm bolt. All the other bolts on the control arm are in the range of 22 to 27 ft-lbs. I twisted that sucker right off! Now I've got to go to the dealer to find a replacement. Can anyone tell me the correct torque for this bolt? It would be much appreciated. Thanks

I got a tape adapter and I really like it:banana:. I have had a fm modulator for a while, but like you say, it goes in and out as you drive around and the quality isn't that great. Also it took a battery so it sucked to constantly feed it batteries. The only drawback I've found is that the adapter (or the head) has a slight clicking as the player plays it, although you can only hear it if the engine is off and it's between songs and not putting out any sound (so it doesn't matter).

I'd be afraid of screwing the soldering up, plus I wouldn't know where to start. Where do you get the schematics for the radio? Or do you just study the board?

What is everybody's experience? is FM modulator or tape adapter better?

That's what I want to do. Since cd players first came out, they should have started making stereos with a line in on the face, but if they did, then you wouldn't have a reason to buy an expensive cd player stereo.

Oh well, I guess I'll have to use a fm transmitter or tape adapter. Thanks

BTW, it's in a 99 OBW and has cd, tape, and radio

I doubt it, but I was wondering if the stock stereos have a line in on them? I haven't pulled mine out or anything to look, but again, I doubt it. I would rather keep the stock one than get an aftermarket one, because I like the WB radio. Does anybody know if it has line in on the back?

If there's a problem with the blend door or the vacuum hose/vacuum motor connected to it, it can seem like the A/C is not on when it is. The heater can easily overpower the A/C if the blend door is opened just a crack, letting hot air mix with the cold air. Check the hoses coming from your compressor when it should be running. One should be pretty hot and one should be pretty cold.

Does the A/C work properly when it's in A/C mode or Recirculate? (I'm not sure what options you've got, cause I haven't seen an auto system:o)