Bababou

Haven't had a chance to get back on here to update but the cats were both junk, 256K miles on what looks like the factory installed cats, not a bad run. Not having a minimum of $500 to throw at the car its now a rather loud straight pipe car. Runs great but still makes no intake vacuum and the mileage seems to be up higher than ever, filling up for the first time since the "fix" after work this morning and I'll know for sure. Short of the meteor that is due to take me out any day now should be good to go until the shop finishes my 02 wagon.

The timing marks still match up as they should.

The one thing I forgot to check while spinning it around for the leak down test.

No two separate things the leak down test gave the 30% loss across the board. Then while running if you disconnect any of the vacuum lines there is no or next to no vacuum. Before I could hear the vacuum with a line disconnected. Right now if you disconnect the line from the throttle plate to the regulator nothing changes. The line by the EGR that goes up to the pump on the strut tower disconnect that, no vacuum. We pulled and did a visual check on the injector it is flowing as to how well we didn't have a way to test it, the gasket that seals the injector in place had a rip in it we put a thin layer of silicon to help seal that better. At the suggestion of the shop I ran some compressed air and a pipe cleaner through the vacuum ports, still not generating manifold vacuum but the car ran much better tonight. Got up to 65 no issues but still lost some speed on the hills. I really just need this thing to last another week or so until my bugeye wagon is done. Then this one can go back to being my parts runner / back up car. Or really probably sell it pre move.

Did a leak down test today about 30% loss in each cylinder. They didnt have a compression test kit on site. Did discover there is zero intake vacuum at this point.

I checked the vacuum lines all are in place and no obvious signs of splits, I replaced every vacuum line under the hood less than a year ago. No muffler but I would not be surprised if its not the original cat with 255k miles on the car. It could has disintegrated. Need to check that. I did a timing kit on it when I did the water pump and oil pump less than a year ago. I'll double check timing today. The back fired happened taking off at a light. Hit the gas faster than normal. Typically 70 is the max I run puts it at 4100 - 4100rpm well below redline. The car and motor are very smooth at that point. Well was anyways. I need to get a kit for a compression test. But its on my list

Steptoe I had not though of the fuel pressure regulator, but a quick look at the symptoms and that does no match up. I have no starting issues or long crank, my millage when down a tiny bit but considering heavy on the pedal that seems about normal. The plug wires looked fine when I checked them and they are also fresh, less than a year old. Scoobydube No turbo on this one. Its the is the SPFI non turbo version. I did look and listen for any leaks or cracks and nothing is obvious.

A couple weeks ago I had a bad backfire on my 87 GL10, sever enough that it blew out the air filter and blew out the passenger side (USDM) exhaust gasket that was only a few weeks old. Corrected both of those issue but still had major power loss at that time, hard to even get it to 35 or 40MPH. Checked and changed the plugs due to some build up, its been burning some oil since day 1 of me owning it. Checked and replaced the ignition coil. Changed the oil. Checked ECU codes and had a new one for the air flow meter and the ever present 34 EGR solenoid that I replaced with a brand new one 8 months ago. Cleaned the connectors for the air flow meter code cleared. Now it will eventually get to 70mph on a flat run but as soon as I have an incline to deal with it losses speed quickly all the way down to 58MPH. I put some Lucas oil stabilizer in before I left from work, didn't have any when I changed the oil but I it slows up the leak I have not had an opportunity to find. I only mention the stabilizer because on my way back to work tonight the power loss is not as dramatic on the "hills" not sure if the thicker oil plays into this. Before the back fire the car ran fine it would go as fast as I was willing to deal with the death shakes from 80mph+, easily accelerated on the same inclines that now lower speed. Its a 3spd auto front wheel drive only. Any suggestions as to what I should check next.

My 87 gl10 stripped the threads in the head but subaru was cool enough to put a second set of holes 180 deg off from normal. The pipe had a rotted hole in it as well so the exhaust shop just cut off the flange rotated to match the second set of holes and welded it back on with a new piece of pipe. I can upload a pic later today if you want. Also as some one who just did tie rods and ball joints be careful with the axles, my driver side popped its snap ring at the knuckle and I had to replace the whole thing. Stupid roll pin.

I only hear a squeaking after it warms up I'm thinking pulley or bearing, that fades as the motor gets warmer. Some times you can hear the injector ticking as well. What are you hearing?

Cold start running about 2200RPM. Maybe turn the volume down. Warmed up at 550 RPM

Honestly they probably did this as a save to get it back on the road at some point. There is a dent from the underside of the hood up above the motor, makes me wonder what came out of the motor. I'm going to drop a bore scope in later today after work to look at the pistons.

I will have to give that a try thank you. I just pulled some pics on google, NA has valve clearance cuts and the turbo has an oval cut out of the center very clear difference. Yes it does.

These are the pictures I posted in an earlier post where i was sorting out the wire for the oil pressure unit. The sensor and port are to the passenger side (USDM) of the center of the case just below the transmission stay. If that the case 7.7:1CR no wonder it does not like to move. Are there any ways to figure out if its the turbo version or not without taking it apart? https://ibb.co/eWTZK9 https://ibb.co/kdoC6p https://ibb.co/cOc5Rp

It must be a MPFI block then, it has a knock sensor and PCV port both cut/crimped off and the wiring looks original. Along with the car is marked as SPFI on the under hood sticker. I really want to EJ this car but I would want to find the parts to make it AWD first or find a way to run a newer trans as front wheel only. Okay at least that leaves it as something I can do at home, Im not comfortable rebuilding a motor myself yet. I got the 3 piece kit to reseal the pump so shaft seal, o ring on the body of the pump and the Micky mouse o ring. Anything you would check to up the MPG? I have a check engine light for a EGR vacuum solenoid but not the EGR valve I replaced the solenoid. Car has 247K miles, the motor no clue. Seems the best bet is to start collecting seals and after my 02 finally gets finished pull this motor for cleaning and reseal.

I’m driving an 87 GL 10 front wheel drive the car is SPFI but as someone on here told me it has a MPFI motor in it. On cold start I am getting at least 1 lifter ticking sometimes sounds like a couple are. It normally goes away after the idle drops down; sometimes I have to restart it for the tick to stop if it’s especially cold. Cold for my area is 40f on a cold morning right now. When I got the car running earlier this year I resealed the oil pump, replaced the water pump and did the timing kit and the alternator was bad. I'm reading now I should have also done the cam seals while I was at it as that can stop lifter tick if it’s leaking. I definitely have an oil leak somewhere but seems mostly to be from the valve covers. I have run seafoam in the oil a couple times now and it made the oil pitch black both times but did nothing for the tick. I am going to run some ATF in it when I change the oil today to see if that helps. Is there anything else I can try before looking into replacing lifters? I also need to pick up a tester to check compression. From what I have found 150-180 PSI and close on all 4 is a good motor, at what PSI am I looking at a re-ring or rebuild? The car runs well over all I zip to work at 75mph for 45 mins no issues just slow to get the first 30mph some times. I’m only getting 20mpg but its running at 4k rpm most of the time on the auto trans.

Looks like I'll be gluing in a thin bit of felt. Its scraping lines up and down the window not peeling the edge.

Does any one have a suggestion for finding replacement weather stripping for the door windows? Mine are all brittle and cutting into the tint. I found the part listed on a handful of sites but they all end up showing as unavailable. Its for an 87 GL10 wagon.

I had my builder check with his two Subaru pack rat friends and I found a couple others and none of them had one, called on 4 different WRX's that hit junk yards all had the front ends smashed up. When I looked online all I could find was a bottom half of the box for $180. They may be plentiful where you are but not here. The K&N is installed and the builder will be tuning once the car is running so no concern it wont be safe. He just has to figure out why the timing is so far off and its on the road I don't want to add any more delays making changes at this point.

I looked around for a stock air box with no luck but would have preferred a stock one. This one is listed as being ok to use and I got it on a bit of a discount from a co worker that never got around to installing it on his 06 wrx.

My mechanic told me boost will come on quicker and be smoother on the top end as well. For all the conversations he and I have had I could have miss understood where 300whp came in. What you described is exactly what I'm looking for a fun car to drive but not a monster. I have the typhoon intake and full confidence in his tuning ability. He has tuned my NA subarus for me and made surprising improvements to my 2010 2.5i impreza. Thank you for the input and thank you even more so for not being nasty like some of the big names on other boards.

I get the scepticism but it is in fact a twin scroll. The motor is an EJ20Y out of a JDM legacy or forester 04 to 07 I think. The turbo is a TD04 HLA 19T. Has dual AVCS, catless uppipes. Also went with a bellmouth down pipe he made in house also catless to a 3inch straight pipe into a N1 clone exhaust. Probably saving up for a varex muffler quickly. He swapped in a 04 wrx harness and flashing a JDM ecu, I belive its a 16 bit ecu. I would be just fine with mid 200s so hope your right on the power number. Im looking for a car to go camp and kyack I dont need more than mid 200s for that but the na 2.5 was not getting it done. http://m.australiancar.reviews/Subaru_EJ20X-EJ20Y_Engines.php https://phoenix.craigslist.org/wvl/ptd/d/jdm-subaru-legacy-forester/6714347156.html

I would love to hit a couple track days in this thing, not a whole lot near me that I'm aware of just yet. I'm typically cautious trying out new upgrades just have to keep my foot out of it at first. Thank you and me too, I'm sure it will get there just a matter of time. The shop got it fired up last week but the timing was way off, it was back firing out the intake. He ordered in an oscilloscope to track the signals but it didn't get delivered until he was packing up to go to the SEMA show in Vegas last week. It would already be done had we gone with an EJ205 but oh well live and learn and enjoy the ride. I should end up with a better end project with the EJ20X engine.

I am hopefully soon getting my 02 OBS back from its motor swap, there have been to many delays but its all back together finally at least. The car was originally just getting a high CR EJ25 but that blew up after 6000 miles. It was decided it would be cheaper to just do the turbo swap at that point than to start nearly from scratch on the high CR build which has been absolutely true just time consuming. We ended up picking up a JDM EJ20X with the twinscroll TD04 HLA and EL header, added a 3 sport grimmspeed boost controller and had to go with a K&N Typhoon intake because we could not source a stock air box. My builder is estimating it will end up just south of 300whp on 91 octane and I'm not to sure what to expect from a Subaru with those kinds of numbers. Ive had powerful trucks and motorcycles and a few other NA subarus but never a turboed anything. Ive been watching videos of 300+whp wrx / Sti's and most of them end up saying that it is more power than 90% of drivers should have or could handle on the street. Is 300whp really that extreme of a power level? Are there things you should just not do to avoid damaging the car? Stuff like launching it will eventually grenade the 5spd.

Fair enough, I learned a new thing. I had always been told the diff in the transmission is the center diff, but I had only AWD Subaru's before this car so makes sense a front wheel drive would be a different name.