Scoby4wd

yeah check the hose that comes out of the top of the water pump and makes a 90 degree bend under the intake. Its a very short hose but can leak and you find coolant along the top of the motor when it does. You can get a molded replacement pretty cheap.

went for $10k

Its probably an EA81 hatch

WInd it out. These babies like to rev. I find my Brat has enough power to be usable, but its not a tire burner. It will easily do 70 on the highway, even if there are hills.

you can buy a radiator on rock auto. For the lines, I recently made my own hard line for the pressure line on my RX. The fittings on the old line were M14x1.5 on both ends. Amazon had an M14x1.5 to 6AN adapter and then I used the brainded teflon hose to make the line. Worked great.

Pretty sure I have a set, in NY

Hi Mike, I have a full set of Gen 2 bed trims in great shape. I am actually only about an hour from you in NY. Also have a mirror most likely. Have a whole parts brat behind the house Id be happy to sell you, complete with seats and T tops. Let me know if interested. John

I feel like its mechanical in nature, since it will run perfect until it gets floored. Such a strange one. I will check the fuel system though, I do have a filter for it.

Hi All, Have a weird issue with an 87 GL Sedan I bought recently. The car has 26k miles original and is mint. With that mileage, it has sat around alot. I did a tune up - plugs, wires, dist cap, set timing etc. It actually runs really well aside from one strange issue. It starts and runs fine. As it warms up and the idle drops, it will idle around 900 and buck a little (almost like amiss). Then, if I shut off the car, and start it again, the idle settles perfectly smooth at 800 (since its automatic), no buck or miss. At this point, if I go for a drive, it runs perfect. However, If I floor the gas pedal (or close to it), it will then always idle between 900-1200 (depending on how far I had pressed the gas) and will buck/miss a little. If I shut the car off, and restart, it goes back to running/idling perfect immediately, until I floor it again. Given this, I suspect it is something to do with the secondary's, or something related to them, perhaps something not closing after it opens, until I shut the car off and it loses all vacuum. Any Hitachi experts care to weigh in? Thanks John

I am interested. WIll be sending a PM

I have an Ej22T Loyale and I have been looking for a dual range FT 4wd box and rear diff. If anyone has a line on this let me know.

Thanks for the info. I am very happy with how it run's and drives right now so I think I am just going to leave it alone. I'm not looking to race this thing, just cruise it around, so leaving it stock is probably best reliability wise.

Final update, got this thing totally sorted out. I got the WGDS working finally, but in the end eliminated it. First a big thanks to all who posted here to help me get it done. You guys definitely helped me quite a bit. So now to the solution. First, I found that two of the lines going to the WGDS were crossed by one of the previous owners. Funny thing, the first time I worked on it I found one of the clamps about 1" down the hose which I found odd - so definitely someone had messed with it and plugged the two larger connections in wrong. On my test drive with the WGDS hooked up correctly I noticed two things - first that boost around 3k rpm didnt come on smooth, you sort of felt it waiver a bit. Second, the boost guage showed a max of 6psi in 1st and second. I recalled from my first drive with the WGDS removed that it was alot smoother, and I got 6.5-7psi on my guage. But I had the pesky CEL when I did that. To bypass the valve I simply left the wiring harness for it connected and the valve in place. Then I simply capped the line coming from the intake plenum, and directly connected to the turbo outlet to the wastgate actuator. Now I get smooth boost, 6.5-7 psi in all gears, and no wavering. Plus no CEL. All in all another RX is back from the dead. Next up is getting the seats recovered and a few other odds and ends, but I'm totally pumped to have this thing running good.

Found a great youtube video about the wgds

So I figured this out finally. Turns out my waste gate duty solenoid (on the passenger strut tower) doesnt seem to be doing its job. I tested this by directly connecting the turbo pressure outlet straight to the wastegate actuator. When I did this I got peak boost of 6.5 psi reliably and no pinging. The car ran and drove beautifully. I am thinking the right move here is to remove the WGDS but keep the harness connected since it seems to throw a CEL when disconnected and just plug any open vacuum ports. I could even add a manual boost controller and up it to 8 or 9 psi, but frankly I'm not inclined to mess with this motor too much. Alternately, I am wondering if perhaps its just not connected properly and was wondering if someone could tell me which vacuum connections go where. I tried two different valves (happened to have a second one) and neither were controlling boost. I did test both by connecting them to 12v and listening for a click, which it did.