Distance Commuter

A cold radiator with the rest of the system hot would usually indicate the thermostat is stuck closed - blocking coolant flow to the radiator. I think you definitely want to change the thermostat ASAP. If it sticks again before or after the head gasket job, it will overheat again, potentially blowing out another head gasket set. I'm not saying your current head gaskets are OK - with oil in the coolant, it looks like you need that job done.

Maybe a bad shoe or rotor, as you suggested. Or maybe a wheel bearing problem. Repack bearing grease or replace? Most cars have an inner and outer bearing set @ each wheel. I think it's a near-miracle that wheel bearings don't self destruct within a mile or so. They take a lot of use/abuse.

Well, it might need brake pads. But if brakes still not very strong after that, it might need a brake bleeding. Air bubbles in the lines will do that. Also you could have a stuck caliper; if so, you'll find that when replacing brake pads. Sheeesh, $1100!

OK, I'm the one who posted that idea here recently. Guess the demand is different in different places. Around here (Northeast) it seems the dealers are selling mostly auto tranny's regardless of new or used, and the standards turn up in more often in classifieds etc. being sold by the owners - or at the donated-to-charity sales lot that I check out occasionally.

Can you flush a Subie auto tranny easily in a driveway?? For our non-Subarus with auto tranny, the procedure is 0) Car & engine should be cold, so volume of fluid removed is known. 1) Pull plug at bottom of tranny fluid pan, drain what comes out (1-2 qt.), reinsert plug. 2) Replace the 1-2 qt. 3) Disconnect one fluid cooling line at radiator 4) Idle the motor to remove 2 qt. 5) Add 2 qt. new fluid Repeat 4 & 5 till you've put in a total of 15 qt. (assuming system capacity of 10 qt). 6) Reconnect the tranny fluid line. Can you do this on a Subie? Way less expensive than a commercial tranny flush, and nearly as fast, if you count the time spent driving and waiting at the shop.

Looks good. As do the other comments posted in this thread. Glad to read that generally, they'll keep on keepin' on. Stick or "slush bucket", seems that either is good. I may well end up with a stick due to lower prices - harder to sell (good for the buyer), and the fact that the highway driving I do doesn't use up the clutch.

FWIW, Anchor Subaru is in North Smithfield, RI. (Not really that far from the MetroWest area) On Rte 146/Eddie Dowling Highway, one exit north of where they cross I-295. I haven't had any work done there, but spent some time talking with a sales person who's also a driveway mechanic for his own cars, and he seemed pretty decent. I suspect their prices may be lower than the Boston-influenced prices in the Metro West area.

Very well put. I couldn't have said it as well myself.

Yes - so, are there issues with the manual tranny sometimes? Or just drive it to 500 K miles with tranny still working?

I've seen some posts here re. Soobs with replaced trannys. Should I kind of expect that an auto tranny could need replacement, maybe between 150-200 K miles?? I drive about 50K miles/year, which is why I'm asking. Mostly highway miles. How about standard trannys? Do they need to be replaced too sometimes, or just the clutch? I'm not talking about beating up the tranny, just 'normal' driving. Thanks folks.

Did you test the fan(s)? First, make sure it's OK mechanically. With the battery disconnected, give the fan blade a spin with your finger. It should spin pretty freely. I've seen some frozen fans in my junkyard searches, and some that only turn with lots of resistance. So this does happen, and of course that situation needs a fan replacement. If it spins freely, apply battery voltage directly to the + lead for the fan - make sure it runs. Make sure the fan's ground wire has a good ground.

I converted my non-Subie with mechanical fan to an electric fan this summer. Learned a lot about temp switches and relays. Best part of my final installation is a relay that runs the radiator fan on low speed whenever I step on the brake. Got the idea from a bulletin board poster who did that for another car that kept getting too hot. In my installation, this relay is the primary device running the fan. It covers stop + go traffic of all types. Only occasionally does the temp switch kick in due to extended idling, hill climbing on a hot day or some such situation. I definitely would do my level best to set right whatever went wrong on your car. But if it resists your best efforts, or if you need a solution in place while you search for the cause of the problem, a brake switch relay might be just the thing. Just in case you want to do this and have no clue about relays: It's an electrically-controlled switch. Basic type has 4 wires: 2 to control what the relay does (+ and -), they go to a coil inside the relay, and 2 more wires to handle the connection to whatever you're turning on and off (your radiator fan). Splice a wire to the non-powered side of the brake switch. The side that's away from the battery, closer to ground. This gets voltage only when the switch is "on". This goes to one side of the relay's coil. The other side of relay's coil goes to ground. The other 2 terminals on the relay act as a switch. You can use them to power the fan's low speed circuit (make sure the relay is up to the amount of current the fan will draw) OR if the fan's own relay circuit is working OK, you can use it to work that relay. Usually a fan relay has a thin "hot" + wire that allows the fan to be powered when that hot wire is grounded. If that's the setup, you can ground that "sensor" wire via the 2 switched contacts on your added brake switch relay.

Geeez, I should try to sell my wife on the Subie. Having driven RWD all these years, it's hard to even imagine just driving thru all that snow with no special attention to anything like tires or traction. It would need some extra time to check it out due to the temp spare tire on the R.F. wheel. Go to junkyard - get wheel w/tire ($15), tread about same depth as the other 3. Back to sales lot, mount tire, do figure 8's in the lot to look for torque bind. That will need some time off from work, I probably can swing that. Fuel cost of 2.2L Legacy wagon (5-spd) will about match the 25-28 mpg I get from my slightly modified Volvo. That's highway. Modification = electric radiator fan, saves me about 2 mpg! vs. the original fan clutch setup.

Torque bind from unequal tire sizes?? I'm still new here, anyone else speak up please.

This car, my stepdaughter might drive in winter. Grew up on FWD. If we put her in a RWD she might have big trouble. Always in a big hurry! So a Subie might be good. //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// Hey, don't knock the RWD Volvos for winter. I agree that 4WD is great for winter, but the myth about RWD Volvos is only that - a myth. You need 4 decent snow tires and some understanding of how to handle it, then you're OK. Been driving the RWD Volvos since Jan. '95 here in southern New England. Never lost control, rarely lost traction even momentarily. My 19-year old son did though. Experience counts for a lot. Truth be told, I'm usually the guy passing the other drivers. If you think you can just stomp on the gas and swing the wheel, well - you'll have trouble. But Sweden is in serious snow country, remember?? They know something about winter. I put 4-5 cement blocks in the back, and use 4 show tires. Have used 2 on rear only when too poor - OK but not ideal. Turning/stopping suffers if snows only on rear. Once I had 3 home air conditioners in the back instead, only because my brother in law wanted me to pick them up. Did the job, in 6-8 inches of snowy icy mess on I-95! Always worked just fine. As I said, I'm usually the guy passing the others. //////////////////

Good going on the Wagoneers. This Subie is 8 years younger ('95), price is $1100. Wife is pushing for another Volvo (have 2 '89s, love 'em). I'm thinking of getting closer to this century with a '90's Subie. Dunno if it will fly with "the boss".

It's a cars-donated-to-charities sales lot. Kinda like a used cars flea market. You can test-drive in the lot, and you can look and poke all you like - but there's no "Prev Owner" and no warranty. I like it - it's "Ask me no questions and I'll tell you no lies" territory! Of course, the prices are pretty good... No, I don't know where this place is... if you live near a large city, look for a "Helping Hands of America" donations location.

Does a full-size spare fit in spare tire storage space?? (Legacy/Outback) I drive long distances + like to have a full size spare in case of trouble - so I don't have to buy a new tire immediately if one goes flat

How do I know if it's bad when doing tight figure 8's??

Newbie here. Been reading this board & considering a Subie for a next car. Likely a '94-99 Legacy / Outback. Maybe 5-spd - had a quick look at one this morning ('95, 2.2L, 215 K miles). 1) How important is it to rotate tires regularly?? Do we worry that prev. owner did not do this and maybe damaged drive system?? What's the cost to fix if this happened? 2) Car now has temp. spare mounted. Are these proper diameter to avoid the problem above, or do you have to severely limit using temp spare to protect the drivetrain? 3) Does a full-size spare fit in spare tire storage space?? I drive long distances + like to have a full size spare in case of trouble - so I don't have to buy a new tire immediately if one goes flat. Thanks!

NSTAAFL - No such thing as a free lunch. But if you get it running without spending serious $$ on it, I think it will still be a good deal for you Hey, now you know when the timing belt was changed!

Give us an update. Did you get it running??

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What's a "straight drive"?? I posted a ? re. Imprezzas and auto vs. stick. gravelRX responded: "I have been quietly looking for a straight drive, early non turbo sport wagon for awhile now. I recommend the straight drive because the easier you are on the clutch and tranny the longer it will last." [Hey, I'm a newbie here. My login says so. I find a log of jargon here that needs decoding. Back in my day, LSD meant... Oh, never mind. If you can remember the '60's, you weren't there.]

What's a straight drive??