gbrand
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Posts posted by gbrand
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2012 NA forester. unlock using door button and fob. rear hatch will unlatch one "click" and open a crack but not fully release. No button on dash, this latch appears to be all electric No mechanical mechanism. did not see anything in this forum, other info on net was many others had problem, but no definitive solution. there was a post to a reset procedure but the link didn't work. Have not changed battery in car for over a year and worked fine after that up til last week.
Any help appreciated, thanks
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yes, you are on the right to track to get to the To bearing-drop exhaust, pull radiator, you may need to jack up engine slightly. Be careful with the clips that attach the TO bearing to fork, they fly off and are only available from dealer IIRC good luck
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if battery is OE would get it tested-my 12 forester had some slow cranks and then died stone dead 2 weekends ago-would not even take a jump-was 400 miles from home but had a friend take me to buy a new battery and got on the road-you may want to jump with another battry to see if the problem improves-or replace with another battery if you have one to swap.
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if it is not a TO bearing I'll buy you a beer-it will get worse-been there did that on my 91 leg..and 80 SW.. can pull engine forward and up a little to access....if you do with the mileage you have would highly recommend replacing clutch fork too-mine on Leg had the ball "socket" in the fork crater and split out requiring replacement, had to get part from dealer, take your VIN to order. had to separate engine and trans again wish I had replaced as part of clutch job
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my 2012 2.5 na Forester does use oil-have been racking, just got done with 800 mile trip and used 1/2 Q. seems to be about average rate that seems excessive, but does vary-will post my detail and I need to type up and at least make a record of a complaint to SUBARU. got 2 yr ago at 58K now has about 76K
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OK we bought 2012 2.5 NA Forester in jan 15-salesman told us they would include GOLD 100K/7 year from orig delivery in Nov 11 with vehicle, reviewed in detail the coverage brochure - at closing the wanted to charge us $1xxx-told them no deal, called in salesman and we reviewed the brochure and the detail of what he told us-he clearly FU'd and they called in sales mgr and after an hour and a half behind closed doors they emerged to tell the closing clerks they would honor the commitment to zero charge but there was an odor of roasted flesh throughout the dealership. probably didn't hurt it was Saturday the last day of the month.
Used once so far, independent shop found front struts were leaking during tire rotation, offered to replace for 500 some dollars....took back to selling dealer and replaced for 100 deductible and 100 for an alignment. So has paid for itself for my cost
The other thing to consider is you must keep maintained up to factory schedule to keep warranty in effect-for us the 7500 mi interval for cabin air filer seems ludicrous, the filters are almost pristine when I change them. Also the fuel filter at 60K that 2 dealership says don't exist, we replaced the sock on the intake of the fuel pump assyas it was the only possible thing we could find before calling the dealerships
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Searched but didn't see anything
2012 2.5 NA Forester-alt working fine, I have voltmeter on my dash. Sun am 400 mi from home battery stone dead no warnong, will not take a jump. My jumper cables and toolbox were ABOVE the rear cargo cover, but had some other tools and stuff below. Car had been locked, unlocked drivers door with key, and used unlock buttons on other doors to open. Read hatch would open one click but but all the way-so if my stuff was below I would have been up a creek. se a small panel on the inside of the hatch, not sure of a way to unlock-has anyone had to do?
Of course no key for back....
Buddy gave me ride to parts store and new battery worked like a champ
Thanks in advance
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OK been off the board for a bit-got the 91 leg 2.2 FWD 5spd at 110K -did normal maint TB WP VC gaskets etc. went thru a couple clutch's, once got flywheel turned they dint seem to g bad any more. brakes and of course a few CV boots. at 310K was a little rough but still ran OK, air idle valve a little squirrely but engine and trans strong. AC was out, and started screeching like a banshee and was timing belt pulley bearing- - sold on CL to a guy that wanted donor car to fix up his wife's car-after he and his buddy looked said they would switch to his wife's car to be the donor car.......
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Spousal unit took to dealer today for brake line corrosion recall fix, asked about procedure. They told her, oh yeah you have to check the lubricant or the bearings could fail. She called Bull excrement, and said they are sealed bearings and press fit in so HTF do you inspect the lubricant "level"? They admitted that unless they were loose or noisy there is no indication there is a problem-what we all knew to begin with.
Thanks to all for input, will check as I perform all of the other legit 60K items.
glad to be back active on the board again , and to have a Sube in the fleet again
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thanks, if you look at the maintenance schedule in the OEM manual, this is included at 60K and 120K-the warranty is Subaru Warranty to 7 years or 100K, states all required maintenance be performed per schedule to keep in effect. Let me know if anyone has any other bright ideas, has to go back to dealer this week to fix brake line recall, may get spousal unit to see if she can ask get more information.........
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getting ready to do 60K service, required to keep extended warranty in force, most steps look straight forward but this step called out for is a little bit baffling-are these bearings different than the old style press fits that I don't see a way to inspect without disassembly-and would think you might as well replace. Every 60K seems a bit often. I searched and found much information on diagnosis and replacement, but nothing to address this topic.
Thanks
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IIRC, disconnect exhaust at each head and drop Y pipe, motor mounts, maybe pull radiator and fans, and any hoses/wires that would be stretched would allow engine to move forward. I ONCE changed my clutch by pulling the trans, even being a FWD was a pain after that the engine was moved/pulled for any clutch work. Let us know what you find
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On my 91 Legacy the release pivoted on ball stud and finally cracked/wollowed out so wouldn't pivot any more-new lever fixed fine-be careful there are two little clps that I think hold the Throw out bearing to the release lever-can get lost VERY easily. I was able to separate engine and trans moving engine forward to get enough room to do
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OK was looking at a new travel car, picked up a 2012 forester w/57K today, base model. Seems to run drive stop fine, drive home was in rain but no hint of slip or skidding....as expected.......glad to be back in the Sube world again, will be watching the board closer now........
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car was availble to see today, rushed over in 45 minutes to see being driven away on a test drive....and he bought it...oh well on to next time. car was in pretty good shape, has had some body and paint work down but in overall good shpe.......
GWB
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OK, been out of the active USMB for a bit since dumping my 91 Legacy.....saw advertiesed a 94 SVX, 84K, 2950 asking price, of cours they saw nothing wrong runs great....,,is a local used car dealer , going to try to see tommorrow, will try to get them down on price and learn a little more about car-on phone today person did not have too much command of English language but the real boss is to be back tommorrow.....
they say is 2wd, and if in decent shape appears to be nomilally worth the price?
any feedback appreciated as well as gotcha points.......
FYI even though off the board have influenced a cousin to buy a outback SW last year, she says she wished she had bought 30 years ago as opposed to dicking around with all the GM stuff she had; and my nieces sig other just returned from an overseas assignemnt with some spare cash and picked up a new Outback.....
thanks
gbrand
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Hi, went through similar issues with my old 80 1600 wagon. Keep the VR that will operate normally, but also look at the 2 pin connector on the alter nator-has 2 blades at 90 degrees to each other-it would get loose and warning lights would come on and quit charging......cleaniing/bending connectors would help, but finally found a plug of the same size out of an old computer I junked, and spliced it in....problem gone.
Also, surprises me a little car will run very long when warning lights came on.....they used that output from the voltage reg to poower the fuel pump, and if the alt quit the fuel pump will quit-can make for some bizzare runability problems I documented in an old post.
good luck, andlet us know what you figure out.
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o2 sensor behind the cat will not affect runability.....its main function is to make sure cat is operating. double check and make sure something didnt get knocked loose during the front o2 sensor replacement.
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hate to be obvious, but fuel filter or fuel pump? if intermittent ignition could be many things.....let us know what you find out
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That may be the main relay, not sure. Is it the same one that clicks when you turn the car on?
Check your battery cables and Alt output.
nipper
I second this....a loose connection or intermittent out put on alternator cacan cause system voltage to fall below enough to run car-happened on my 91 Leg when brushes on alternator wore enough to have intermittent contact. Alt light never came on...can you wire up a volt meter to watch system voltage during driving and during the failure
good luck and let us know
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No EGR on 91 I believe. I own one and had problems with High NO a couple years ago. Basicly , if the engine is running lean and CC temps rise, the HC and CO go way down but NO goes way up....so IF the air filter is a little dirty or you can some how get your test run when engine is not super hot. I thought I was doing good to change plugs, air filter etc. to make sure engine was running well, it was doing well. I ran some RXP thru it and some seafoam and it got below the limit on retest. Subsequent years tests have been done on 2 speed idle that doesnt measure NO as they assume it is a AWD car(its not) and wont run on dyno.
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check the coolant hoses that go to IAC and throttel body-almost impossible to see leaks but they do crack and leak, and yes will drip down.....if need to be replaced dont by the pre-formed hose $$$$ buy bulk hose and loop around...had this problem on my 91 and drove me nuts trying to find leak, finally had to borrow a borescope (flexible camera) to see.....
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visit this link to find locations-my Honda CRV was on pass side drove me nuts trying to find
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mY 91 LEG has the aux in as well, refuse to purchase an after market stereo with out one now, no matter what you need to plug in, with the jack its a breeze. The cassette adpater things were OK but the FM transmitters are carp when traveling...have to keep changing frequuencies...now need to see if Santa brought me something to plug in mine........
2012 Forester hatch won't open.
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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OK thanks, went out and retried again, I could hear solenoid clicking and after 10 or so quick actuations it opened! I put some grease and spray lube on the latch mechanism once open, and operated repeatedly-so far so good, seemed to be easier than before. will keep everyone posted if it craps again and what has to be done to fix.
USMB is a great BBS