gbrand
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Posts posted by gbrand
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I had that happen-connector end of sensor borke off inside harness connector. Remember you will need to releas the latch,it is proably still holding what is left in the harness connector. And you my me able to grab with mini-vise grips(i was able to), or drill a hole and use a self tapping screw to gett ahold of the broken piece. good luk let us know how it works out and if it fixes tha probelm
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ditto on fork replacement-never thought to replace mine during several clutch jobs....finally wore through/bent about 250-275 kmiles....and about 3-6 months after last clutch job...grrrr it all had to come a part again......
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Thanks, this more or less matches my Chiltons and what I measured today after removal. So i dont think CTS is it
To clarify my problem(my bad for not writing in detail) is not starting cold, it is idling-runs great with foot on gas until warms up, other wises dies during shifting and at stop lights-warms up within half mile to mile first thing in am depending on how cold got overnight.
thanks for your help, may clean the IAC AGAIN, does any one have a 2 wire IAC for 91 Legacy MT FWD non turbo
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Does any one have the resistence versus temp specs for the engine(ecu) temp sensor? 91 legacy, 2.2 NA mt fwd car. Yes I have searched the board, could not find
thanks, am having a cold start problem that is fine after warm up.
Please dont say replace it anyway, not interested in "shotgunning" the problem, can throw parts at it all day long.....
thanks
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The spark is not a relaible indicator of sustaitned current drain-need to hook up an ammeter(or a multi meter with a amp function) between youo r disconnected battery terminal and cable and then pull fuses until you see the circuit affecting the excessive current draw. Ignore current below about 50 milliAMps, it is for clock, keepalive circuits for memory etc.
Good luck let us know what you find
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If you decide to do it yourself or with your friend, I would pull the engine up and forward to gain access(use a cherry picker)-NOT drop the transmission with the engine in place. i did the first time did, never again-more work, and most is under the car.
Depending on the miles would replace clutch fork, the ball stud wears through and back apart everything comes to fix it. I got the LUK kit last time from Pep Boys, and INCLUDED the "dealer only" throwout bearing to fork clips that ALWAYS get lost,. Also look at flywheel, if glazed take out and get turned.
good luck
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May be sending my 91 legacy to stay with a friend in SA-anyone know of a decent impsort shop that knows subes-no dealers, they are tight on budget-but a fair mechanic that has some sube knowledge-IAC, vigin switch, stc.
Any help appreaciated
thanks
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3593A is listed for my 91 EJ22...I believe covers many of the EJ engines. Also fits my 99 2.0L CRV....
I have used many brands of oil filters, but only CASTROL oil for the last 20+ years
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A couple weeks ago on the way home from work, in the "broken in" 91 Legacy( I refuse to use the term "tired" at 309,000 miles), i spotted a pretty nice looking old wagon at a Kwik Kar, with its owner standing beside it. I whipped in and asked "is that a 79?" and was corrected, no its a 78. after talking for a few minutes it became evident to each other that we knew a little more about Subarus than the average bear, so i asked if the gentleman was a member of the USMB. Of course I found out was talking to the honorable Todd aka SUBARU3 founding member of the board, a pleasent surprise as we have communicated on the board but never met in person!
We contunued to BS more and look at each other's cars for a little bit, it is great to see some one in the flesh as we are not all in one place like the PNW.
USMB rocks!
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update on mine....now up to 309xxx miles and still going strong
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great looking car...One of my coworkers has a 1972 Colt wagon(rear wheel drive), with a 71 engine (found out when parts wouldnt fit)...showed him your pics today...boy, he said finding parts for his is IMMPOSSIBLE....still runs good.......
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check to see if the fork is shot-mine blew out at the "ball" indent taht fits on t he ball stud....gave syptomsl ike no travel in fork...was able to carefully see in hole for rubber boot....unfort it was nt too long after I had replced the clutche so had to tear apart again...grrrr
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congrats on reaching the 300K mark...mine hit this summer and is up to 305 or so now.....
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they don't last worth carp
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Double check to see if your inner CV boot has not split open and is throwing grease all over the cat converter-that will smoke like crazy also.
Or a split in a heater hose....
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300K and as far as I knw stillorig pump and sending unit, gas guage works fine
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I jjust fixed the low beam on my Legay...the pins inide the connector were a little "sprung" so carefully bent them to grip the bulb prongs tighter, and used some contact spray cleaner on them...works fine now
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congra. would you buy another sub?
I'm at 105k miles only regular maintenance and drives like new
Of course i would buy another subie, have been looking at post gen I 2.5 foresters, Legacies, etc. The real question we have is what do we want the function of the next vehicle to be-if soley for daily driver for my wife, a small economy car(she drives a lot of miles to clients) is in order. If we decide to make our next roadtriip vehicle(currently have a Buick LeSabre) then a AWD SUV may be in order. Looked at a CRV one of her clients employees was selling the day after 300000, but was a 2WD only....off the list...we'll see what happes, the Legacy still racking the miles till then.....
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OK, finally rolled 300K down street from house:
Not too bad shape for 1991, of course has had some maintainance -brakes, struts, A/C, timing belt and clutches, but never any internal engine or trans work st least since 112K when I bought. Still my wife's daily driver, guess now time to start looking at replacement....
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If you are trying to pull the transtodo the clutch, yes, there are 4 things to take off-2 bolts on top, and 2 nuts on bottom that actually hold eng/trans together. But double check for CV Shafts, dog bone, exhaust attachement to trans mission in back, shifter linkage, etc. thatcan be holding the trans from moving. First time I did my Legacy I pulled trans mission, swore I would never go that route again and raised engine next time-MUCH easier, most work ABOVE the car as opposed to under it-and mine is a FWD only so no drive shaft toworry about-it prolly needs to come out or at least be dropped to allow trans to be moved back.
let us know how you do on this and if need more help
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Isolate problem...hook up meter measure current draw from battery-then remove fuses and fusible links one at a time until you find the circuit that is drawing the surrent when it shouldnt-a very little bit of current draw (10 mA or so ) is OK used to keep clock, ECU meemory etc alive, but bet you are seeing 500mA(1/2 A) or higher....
Just went through this on my non-sube vehicle, takes time to isolate and track down-be methodical and patient.
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"Less than twenty lines down, the link says to try smacks booster. "
from the phact webpage
High mileage scams are going up along with fuel costs - here is a similar one - at least they only charge 50$ to tell you how to run a car on water.
http://www.5starshine.com/ebook.html
here is a much cheaper alternative for someone wanting to investigate adding hydrogen to engines:
http://www.smacksboosters.110mb.com/
It does NOT say to try the smacksbooster, only that it is a cheaper alternative-although the words are unclear, I read a cheaper scam
Again the warning lights mentioned in the page for any product(auto, financial) that sounds to good to be true, specificly no physical address, no independent verification.
Also, the bottom of the page mentions that all proceeds and dontations are being used to fund a 100% water powered vehicle-again implying that you can get more energy out of buring the hydrogen and oxygen that it takes to electrolyse(break apart) the water-but do agree that is not the pitch for THIS product.
But Very interested to see INDEPENDENT verification of the smackbooster or any other claimed miracle device under controlled conditions. If it works let the test results bear out claims.
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You cant get more energy out of a process than you put in.
this is another variation of the same scam that has been going on for years-see
among others links if you do the research.....
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also since it is a 90....is it a FWD or AWD.....As years go by I have had people try to tell me I can't tow my 91 Legacy FWD with the front off the ground...whic would be correst if it was an AWD.....too used to assuming ALL subes are AWD.....
gen 2 brat, runs great dies,runs great,dies...
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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what year? if 1980 81 check to see if alt/vr are working right, on these if alt is not charging fuel pump power is cut as it goes thru the VR. It will fill the carb in the start position, and then run until runs out. Intermittent brushes in the alt can make the problem even harder to troubble shoot-I posted a thread about this way back when-drove me NUTS on way home late at night. Finnaly figured out, and ran jumper from battery to fuel pump to get home, and later wired up an overide switch to use in case ever happened again-it did when belt broke. let me know if need more details