gbrand
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Posts posted by gbrand
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I have used sveral Gates timing belts in my 91 Legacy (T172? the part number from memory). No problem, when removed at 60k interval look damn near new.
I know an OPINION is an OPINION, but I dont buy the argument that OEM parts are far superior. In many case they are not really OEM(Original Equipment Manufactured) but simply OEA (Origianl Equipment AQUIRED)-bought from the same parts suppliers that are subcontractors that supply both the production facilities as well as the aftermarket. I worked for one such subcontrator, they were under INTENSE pressure to shave off costs for the OEM products supplied to the Big Auto manufacturers for thier production facilities.
I use STANT thermostats in my subies, OTC PCV valves, Purolater and Walmart oil filters, etc. no problems despite the dire warnings posted by some on this board-but again I respect thier opinions. I in general go to the dealer for parts I cannot get else where, and put up with inferior delivery and higher prices(where i can get a competitive quote) as well as reduced parts dept hours versus the parts stores. But you dont get to look at the new models in the lobby of the Orilelly's!
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My 91 legacy has a jack-great, what a novel concept!
I prefer the tape adapter, that is what I use in my daily driver 96 Sunfire convertible.
Bought an FM transmitter to use in my 99 Buick Lesabre, our travel vehicle, as the cassette in them is notorius for accepting a tape and never letting go-and this happened first time I tryed after buying th car 2 years ago. They are OK if you are going around town, so can find an open frequency-ut on the road you are constantly dealing with interference as you move near stations using your once open frequeency. And, with a power cord and audio cable to the FM transmitter, and a Power cord to your CD player, a fair amount of spagetti. Still better than ambient radio in rural Okla though! this year upgraded to Sony CD deck fo the Buick, but insisted on having an aux input jack on the front to handle waht ever present or new technology may have to offer
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thats what old license plates are used for....to fix the "flintstone mobile" effect.
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May be able to use a "thread chaser" (a modified tap) to re cut the threads if not too bad. O2 sensors have the same the thread as spark plugs, at least the ones I ve used....
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little rubber button on clutch pedal that activates clutch switche-it wears out, and your system thinks the clutch is pushed in all the time. Inspect, and if so glue a button or something to the pedal to take its place. Worked for me...
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Good to know, fortunately I don't need any parts now for my sube or anything else....(knock on compressed HS)
Thanks for the tip.....
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Drive it till it drops!
just kidding, hope you get an honest review/possible fix from your welder friend.
After moving to Texas 27? years ago from salt/rust country , I DO NOT MISS ONE BIT the salt induced havoc on body parts or the MFB it can be to break loose parts such as suspension and brakes, etc.
good luck and keep us posted
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My guess would be that replacing the cat will most likely take care of it-once I did on my 1980 never had problems again. If you want a little insurance then buy some RXP(behind the counter at Oreallys's) and use per directions, as well as a Seafoam treatment.
Like the others say, do a double check for the simple stuff-vac leaks, plugs, wires, etc.
Also get car HOT and keep car idling while waiting for inspection to keep warm...
Let us know....
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I have not yet been able to price a "yorque" converter-no part by that name listed....have never bought a troque converter except with a JY tranny, only for older american junk...
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make sure throttle is blocked open, and retest. I ould crank about 20 secoonds or so and let guagfe climb unitil it dooesnt get any higer. would make sure battery has full charge.
If readings are really that low then shoot a little (10-20cc) oil in each cylinder and retest-if compression comes up then rings are shot. If not then HG or valves, or is there any possiblity timng belt is jumped?
You say engive wont start-was it running and quit, or is there any more history?
let us know
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Just drove a 91 Legacy 2.2L FWD only(sigh) 5MT with 266Kmiles on the clock-doesn't use oil and biggest repairs ever were clutch and A/C. Goes about 50-100 miles most days as my wifes daily driver. Owned since 110K, plan on running at least till 300K unless get smacked by an idiot here. Is rustfree so body still in decent shape
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try an oversize4 plug as suggested.....to get the old out try grabbing with visegrips and pulling while turning and/or prying under lip with screwdriver to get some pressure to see if can engagethresds.
BTW I spent about 13 years 100 miles down I-44 from St. Louis(many friends in STL)....1972 to 1985....got engineering degree and moved to Texas after now wife graduated....
Good luck
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OB99W youre right on....
P0420 a pet peeve with me(on all vehiicles), see notes on thei thread with advice that saved one USMB member 800 bucks.....
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=52917&highlight=0420
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look at link in first post in this thread i posted in New Gen-gives good background on NOX vs CO and HC emissions..
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=41006
On my 80, the coolant sendor in the radiator went bad, and caused overheating as the fan would not come on until waaaaaaay to late. Once replaced was just fine, only noticed it if stuck in traffic, on hwy airflow enough to stay cool. . Never got around to installing an overide switch for "just in case".
Let us know how it works out
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http://www.cars101.com/ excellent resource for this type of info and more
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guess i'm dating myself-I remember reading that ad when it was new!
hang it in the living room-your garage will be jealous
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talk to the actual junkyard they sell it o if you want to keep it-or insist on talking to a mgr at USAA-it is really less hassle for an ins co to let y9ou keep the car.
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OK, went back and re-read test reports from 2005 and 2006 line by line-and discoved the difference. 2005 was an ASM(dynomometer) test and 2006 was a TSI(two speed idle test). If the engine is not under load, regardless of engine speed, then NOX is not produced so is proabably not monitored for the TSI test. Still dont know why the test spec for the car was changed, but hope they continue to run it on TSI. We'll see enst year.
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OK, a year later-got ready for inspection this year by running RXP in about 10 gallons of fuel, new air filter, cleaned MAF sensor wires, and then ran 1/3 can seafoam thru power brake line connection. After that changed out plugs, and this morning took out for 20 minutes on freeway to fully heat up cat convertors and everything else (was already at least 90 outside and climbing) and took into inspection station(left running to keep cat hot)
After waiting to recalibrate machine, they ran the ASM tailpipe test-same station as last year, same machine, even the same test procedure-but imagine my shock not to see it pass first time out, but, to see on the printout that the NOx level was not even tested! other results great:
High speed test HC was 17, limit 220 CO was .04, limit 1.2
Low speed test HC was 53, limit 220 CO was .05, limit 1.2
So was running a bit lean if anything, as it was on first (failed) test of last year-but with NOX test would have passed with flying colors last time on the first test. Im not going to complain, won't worry about it till next year.
BTW turned 265000 miles this week-well on way to 300K
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So, if I hotwire the fuel pump and I can still only get it to run for about 20 seconds, then I must have another problem.
correct. let us know how it comes out.....
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my advice from a previouos thread on a similar problem:
My experience from My 1980 4wd wagon. The output of the alternator is used to keep the fuel pump going( a crash safety shut off thing). So if alt quits then fuel pump is shut off. So perhaps you did not actually run out of gas, even though symtoms the same?
I had an intermittent alt that drove me nuts on way home one night, would work for 1-5 minutes before shutting down and having to coast off road. But in "start" position the pump operates so could get going. FINALLY figured out what was going on and had wife bring me tools and a piece of wire to hot wire the fuel pump to get me home. I replaced regulator but took the alternator replace to fix it. I also wired up an override switch to at least be able run on battery power, and two years later was used when my belt broke in traffic. Kept going until could pull off and replace with the spare I always carried.
As far as location of regulator, I believe it was on fenderwall near front corner-cont remeber if on drivers side near the jack or behind the battery on pass side.
Again, this was on my 1980, dont know if applys to yours
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http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=52917&highlight=0420
please read this, all the way to bottom, you may be coverd by a recall that is casuing your problem.
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Also check to make sure the dust/splash shields(thin shhet metal) didnt get bent during the work and are rubbing against the rotor.....
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try to "hot wire" it at teh connector for a few seconds and see if it comes on-if it does then maybe there is a problem with the wiring, pressure switch or perhaps there is not enough freon to keep the pressure cutout switch on. I hope your freebies mechanics shecked pressure in the system but wouldnt bet my paycheck on it
If hot wiring does NOT engage your compressor, then is prolly your clutch coils or something in there-new compressor or at least clutch if can be serviced seperatly-think there is a thread about servicing the clutch only.
Whether you do it your self or get a mechnaic to do it, get good advice/help.
good luck, and let us know how you do
Radiator bleed screw
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
On my legacy I used a oil drain pug to replace the plastic one that cracked, with a rubberwasher undersneath. M10x1I think the thread on mine. Local Ace hardware had a great selecton of them, better than the parts store.