bean

Thanks for the diagrams - now if I could figure out how to read them to see which line is the one in the pictures I put in the gallery. I did get the car started and it seems to run fine so far - just need to do some quick maintenace stuff on the rest of it before taking it on a test drive... Rabin

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=80 I uploaded some pictures of some of my current issues. The large vacuum line with no home, and in the second picture it's the one with the hose splice going through the rubber fitting on top of the driver fender. The plate that looks like it should mount somewhere, and the electrical plugs (a white one and a black one). I also took a pic of the PCV system. I isolated it from the intake and ran it into a K&N PCV filter. I'm hoping it runs OK like this as I want to keep the intake nice / and or see if the turbo is starting to leak oil into the intake. Thanks guys!

Hi Calebz, The car is a 3-sp auto. I wish it was a 5mt, but sadly I'll have to make do with the 3-sp with some Pug 14" alloys to get the revs down on the highway. I'm hoping to see if I can find close up pictures of that area with the boost switches/solenoids, but if I can get my hands on a digital camera I'll take detailed pics and get some feedback that way... Actually - me providing pics is likely the best way to go about it so I'll do that after work. Rabin

Hi guys, It's been a long time since I posted on here - since I took my 86 wagon off the road due to rust. I finally found an 87 wagon to swap my totally rebuilt motor into, and I've got the engine in with the intake manifold off the old engine on the rebuilt motor. I've got everything accounted for except for a vacuum line that runs from behind the driver strut tower, along the firewall with the air supension lines, under the white plastic vacuum thingy, and then seems to go under the boost solenoids - but there's nothing in the vicinity to plug it into. I also have a bracket that seems like it goes in the same area - but I can't figure where it mounts, or figure out what's missing. Does anyone have detailed pictures of that area? 87+ (Infront of the passenger strut tower inside engine bay) MAF MPFI EA82T. I bought the car for $150, engine completely apart and parts in the trunk. Owner was tired of dumping money into it, and the cracked heads were the last straw. So I don't really know if I'm missing anything or if the hose is OK to just plug. Thanks! Rabin

Sure - we can do the Z28 with the my G-tech as well and see what the HP that car puts to the ground. Run both testers and see what's what. A big issue though is still traction and/or clutch slip that we experienced. It REALLY needs AWD and a stronger pressure plate to get more of the power to the ground. What was missing in our numbers was a baseline car to have some sort of comparison. My car's O2 pump had to give out though so I could't run baseline numbers. Gimme a call later and we'll hook up and do some more testing. Rabin

Car is for my Mom. Her car was really rusty, and has a 3-sp on it's way out. Her old car's engine is getting resealed and done up for the transplant - should be a decent little bomber for her to drive around it. The 5-sp hi/lo swap is up for my car - but I'm starting to really hate old cars! I've had nothing but grief the last couple months and need to mellow a bit before working on my wagon again... Later... Rabin

Oh yeah - forgot to mention the numbers we got. Specs: Weight of car: 1040 KG (2292 lbs) Weight of car with Dean and I: 1210 KG (2668 lbs) (Couldn't believe how light it was! No wonder it feels so fast) Changes made since I was last in the car - 14" Pug alloys with 195 60 tires. Car looks really good with that much rubber under it. This was the first time I've ever used my G-Tech Pro, and is it simple to use. Set up was very straight forward and the numbers we got were quite consistent - unfortunately it was hard to get the power to the ground in the lower gears so that wind resistance was not as big a factor. We either had wheelspin - or it seemed like some clutch slip at the 1-2 shift after we nicely warmed up the tires and they started to hook up. Numbers we got: Peak G-Tech HP we got was 130 HP Average G-Tech was about 128 HP. We hit the peak numbers as 2nd gear hooked up - Ideally if it could have hooked up in first it might be more accurate. Since the G-Tech is limited to calculating an accurate number from a dead stop - roll on HP figures can't be had accurately. So - I'm guessing the car has about 160 G-Tech HP to the wheels if it can hook it up. I had planned on getting some baseline numbers for the Legacy - but it started a coolant leak at the water pump while en route to the weigh scales. (OEM O2 pump along all new parts for redoing the entire front portion of the motor - and the freaking pump leaks after two weeks - and it's not at the gasket - looks like the leak is coming from the shaft seal. I'm not a happy camper...) There's no need for any childish retorts about the low numbers. Unless your car was out there this very night and was weighed on the same scale and used the same road blah blah blah - you simply can't compare numbers. The car still absolutely fly's and is one hell of car for roll on acceleration. I think he's done a hell of a job getting the car to really perform well - what it needs most is traction - although the excessive wheel spin is really addicting. Later... Rabin

Yep - Mass can not be measured by vane type meter - I believe it is measuring Volume of air entering the motor. Makes sense to call it a VAF wether it means Vane Air Flow - or Volume Air flow - both work! Rabin

Where is Taylor's? Northern states may be just as close as Calgary - long shot but you never know. As for the different air meters - isnt the early car a VAF (vane air flow), and the later cars a MAF (mass air flow)? That's how I call them anyway to differentiate. Rabin

WOOHOO! That's what I wanted to hear... To bad about you toasting the TC. I've heard of taking out transmission oil pumps that way too. Live and learn though - you only make mistakes like that once! Thanks much! Rabin

I bought a 86' Loyale GL sedan for $50! Car has 92500 KM and it looks pretty darn good - unfortunately it also has a seized motor. (Some rust but not too bad at all.) I've taken everything off the engine and am wondering if I can pull the engine without undoing the flexplate to torque converter bolts? If not - can anyone suggest the best way to pull the seized motor? I'm hoping I don't have disassemble the engine so I can rotate the crank. Thanks for the input! Rabin

That would be the closest - but Calgary is about 7.5 hrs away one way. 15 hrs round trip to find out how much power this XT is making is a bit much. There might me something closer in the States - but I've never done the research. Cool link though! Calgary is a cool place and I may be going out there this fall with my Peugeot so I wouldn't mind popping in to have my Peugeot Dyno'd just for fun. Thanks

Again for those missing the point... The Legacy is a baseline to show some baseline numbers the G-tech comes up with. Anything can be manipulated - even a dyno graph can be if you want to get into that - which I don't. Once a baseline is set so that we know the G-tech is reading OK by verifying some decent numbers on a un-modded car that has modest power - we can then test Dean's car. Back to back to minimize external factors. Test will simply be third gear roll on in Dean's car, and a 2nd gear roll on for the Legacy. That should eliminate wheelspin in Dean's car, and be enough to get decent numbers. What will be of use is knowing the numbers for a 138 HP Legacy - we should be able to see a relationship of what the car probably has to what it is putting down to the ground. Dean's car is unknown - so with the Legacy data we should be able to get a close approximation of what kind of power his car is making. We will be weighing the cars on the same scale and then doing back to back tests on the same road with the same set up. I'll even use a level on the g-tech while mounting it. I'm the third party independant tester that is trying to just get some numbers that mean something. A dyno pull has just as much clout as a G-tech if done properly. You should know that you can't compare numbers from different dynos. You should know that G-Techs are VERY accurate to themselves (If you know what you're doing) - meaning you can test your car, modify it and then see a real world gain. External factors play a big part but can be minimized by doing back to back testing so that atmospheric conditions are as close as possible. On that same note - comparing G-Tech to G-tech is also a load of hooey. The only way I can think of doing this and getting numbers that means something is the way we're going to do it. You guys should know that we don't have a rolling road dyno in Saskatchewan. It's the G-Tech or nothing. If anyone can suggest a better way to get more accurate results with the available means - let me know. Any suggestions to keep error to minimum - suggest away. If you want to take the tact that we're going to stack the deck by faking the results - then that's your option too. I really don't care - I'm doing this for those that are genuinely curious like myself. Later... Rabin

Under normal circumstances I'd definitely take points off for the wing - I myself wouldn't put it on. After speaking and meeting with Dean though - you quickly realize the entire project is for ****s and giggles. This is a case of "what if I did this... What would that look like?" I've also seen his garage guys... Major drooling action over the GORGEOUS 911 Porsche he has under a car cover. Actually... major drooling action over the garage itself! This car is his toy. It takes him to work and it does stupid tire shredding burn outs. The wing is all part of it being a toy... or a "lure" has he likes to call it. Other ricers are drawn to it like a rice magnet and then he destroys them with the funny pointy looking car. After he has the Pug alloys on it - I think the wing might actually look decent! (Yes I know - words I nevver thought I'd say!) Dean is definitely a good guy - so all the calling of BS can stop. His car is very fast - and may not have the numbers first claimed (although everyone knows dyno numbers are pretty meaningless when you compare between machines) - hopefull getting some data from a baseline car and the G-tech - then Dean's car and the same G-tech should let us put this into perspective. (G-techs are VERY accurate to themselves - so testing with the same G-tech can show decent numbers if testing is done back to back under the same circumstances) BTW - when he said with the right fuel you can run 17 psi he's pretty close. We ran C16 in our rally car. 17 psi, no intercooler and no detonation. I didn't like it so I dialed it down to 14 psi and we ran the entire rally like that. With the right fuel - you can stretch the useable range of the injectors since the energy in each injection of fuel is that much more than on regular unleaded. Combustion needs "x" amount to combust. You can get it via volume or by content. Just saying is all... Once we have numbers though this will much more effective. But like I said wheelspin is brutal. Hopefully we can get some decent numbers doing 3rd gear roll on's. Gets pretty speedy though when he can back the tach off the bump stops and it's still pulling. Crazy but true - I saw it myself. Later... Rabin

Hey guys, Long time no speak... I finally got to meet Dean and go for a ride in his car. Although we have no numbers just yet, what I can say is MY GOD IS IT FAST!! It really does incinerate the front tires first, second. and starts to hook up in third. The plan to get some tangible data so you guys have some data to play around with is as follows: I have a 90 AWD Legacy (auto) that I just finished fixing up. Nothing special just a daily driver. I'm going to weight it, then do some G-Tech Pro testing to see what numbers the thing gives. We'll then do the same to Dean's car - even weight it on the same scale. Run the same tests with the same G-Tech Pro and see what comes up. Hardest thing is getting his car to hook up. He's currently running about 10.5 psi boost and it's insane. It really does pull hard well past 7500 RPM - not the slightest bit of valve float or strain. Butt dyno's don't mean squat, so I hope to actually get some numbers to prove just how fast this car is. Like I said though, wheel spin is a serious issue for this XT - it really needs 4WD. Anybody know if the hi/lo 5-sp from a GL wagon can work in an XT? I have a conversion for my wagon that I think would be bettter used in Dean's car. If so, then that is the only way it will hook up. Later guys, Rabin BTW - Dean put some pug 14" alloys on the front of it and WOW did it ever make the car look good! I'm going to set him up with a complete set - hopefully we can get som pics posted.

If there is interest in doing MS for the EA82T - I'm in! It would be so much easier building MS for the first time with someone who is experienced, and building one for their EA82T too. Also good to share maps and set ups - we could develop it quite a bit with a few members working on it at the same time. Would fuel control be it, or would anyone want to do spark as well? I like the idea of doing spark - but I guess that can done done later... I'll be watching to see if this takes off - hopefully not for the next few weeks though Rabin

Thanks Subarutex! Awesome info - now more questions... The 86 Turbo relied on the boost switch to also trigger a full rich signal from the ECU - thus the crappy mileage. Is the 87 MAF system better on gas - or does it also have a boost rich switch with the FC as an extra protection? If the 87 doesn't go full rich at 5 psi boost, does than mean mileage is significantly better than the air vane type? (I currently get about 20 - 23 mpg) The more I think about getting max power safely - the more I'm leaning towards MS'n EDIS. I think my plan will be to run the car stock with as much boost as the MAF will allow - I'll then save my pennies for an MS system then start playing with that. Thanks!

Is the FCD just a voltage regulator then? If so, a simple circuit should be able to allow a certain voltage through then limit it after a certain point... Has anyone found which wires need to be intercepted and what voltage fuel cut occurs at?

So what is peak boost the MAF ECU allows? Does it vary according to conditions? Does the boost signal have anything what-so-ever with the fuel cut or is it entirely MAF? I've tricked the 92' Turbo Legacy ECU and have seen 17 psi with no cut - strange they had the algorithm in the EA82T and not in the EJ22T... I'm kinda looking forward to manipulating this system though... Ideally I would not spend anything on doing the mods (up to $50?) If it needs electronic intervention - I'd go MegaSquirt'n EDIS. My current project is the 90' Legacy I just bought - so once that replaces the GL-10 as the dailer driver, I can then work on doing the swap with no time constraints to do it right. I'll get the car running really nice stock, then after the wife decides which one she wants - that will be the car that gets modified. My plan is to stack the cards against the Legacy - I WANT the GL-10 Turbo 5sp hi/lo!!! I can have fun inthe Legacy too though... Rabin

MS is definitely an option I've been considering - so I think I will just go the easy route and leave the MAF in instead of the vane type. It's way easier to do too! Peak boost with MAF is what? 9 psi? Or can it be higher? Rabin

Hi guys, I bought my first Legacy and I am about to do the timing belt. I found the FSM pages on the net thanks to some previous postings What I'm mostly after is what the recommended way to go about it. Specifically: Should I replace the tensioner assembly - or do they never go? Idler's - can I replace bearings in them or do they need to be replaced? What kind of timing belt to use - I'm partial to the Goodyear Gatorback line over OEM - or is OEM the best? I'm going to replace the cam and front main seals - possibly the valve cover gaskets as well - anything else? Oil pump reseal - or replace? water pump - replace? Car has 200000 miles and was maintained quite well. Owner gave up on it after the timing belt went so I bought it cheap. Thanks for any and all advise!

Hi guys, Is it feasible to use the 86 electronics in the 87 to get rid of the dreaded MAF system in the 87 body - or is it too much trouble for what it's worth? My plan is to run 12 - 14 psi. A piece of cake inthe 86 - not so much in the 87. Is it worth swapping - or is it more trouble than it's worth? Thanks...

I'll check out the solenoid ASAP. Prediction is for 15 - 20 CM in the next 24 hours. Crazy blizzard conditions and the poor Subie just isn't itself without 4WD. Still great in 2WD- but MAN does 4WD rock!! Can anyone tell me where it is located on the tranny? My garage is snowed in and I wouldn't be able to get to it in 2WD. I'll have to head into the storm and get under the car tomorrow to see if it is unplugged - or is it accessible from the top? Thanks Rabin

Hi guys, My 86 GL-10 Turbo wagon has lost drive to the rear wheels. Pressing the 4WD button does nothing whatsoever, but the lights for 4WD are lighting up on the dash - and the fuse is good. Is there a simple fix for this like cleaning the govenor fixes forward speeds? I'm not real worried as it drives and shifts fine in 2wd - but we have some of the worst weather here now and no 4WD makes it just like any other car, and that's no good! If it's a simple fix I'll attempt it, if the tranny is shot, it's not a big loss - car is turning into a parts car for the new 87 wagon I bought that has less rust. Thanks, Rabin

If the EA82T was the only I car I wanted to do this for - I'd be all over your offer. (Didn't meant any other way...) Unfortunately (fortunately?) I have two other cars that I want to build custom fuel rails for - both inline 4's. (One turbo 2.2L and a NA 2.0 L) Being part of a car club, I could always build a couple for other guys as well. I can see this having a bunch of uses - especially guys wanting to do a CIS conversion to regular EFI. That said - in my personal case it, I can make use of the items needed to machine my own bosses. (I like collecting tools too!) I was kind of thinking of the dash 10 for my turbo car, and the Dash 6's for the other two applications - but I have no idea! Dash 6 would probably do all cars without any problems at all... Rabin