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MDW25gt

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  1. 1000-1200 to do a cluch at the dealer. 700-800 for a reliable indi mechanic. What is it that gives you the idea that it needs a clutch? I'm thinking if its not slipping I would hold off. But there are always details to consider. Mike
  2. I suggest looking at both sides. The lowest level is correct. I would confirm if the oil is high. Three inchs is pretty high! If high, drain some to proper level. Dont mess with the mechanic. Just dont go back! Its a stretch to call someone a mechanic if they can't change the oil correctly. The brakes. Try the bed in procedure. Check the www.Stoptech.com site for the procedure.
  3. I got the brembo oem's and also put on the Hawk HPS pad. I like! Hang in there!
  4. I am getting a PO 440 CEL EVAP emission control system malfuntion. What do I need to do to fix? Thanks in advance, Mike
  5. Turkey baster would work. This sounds like an easy way to do it.
  6. OK, here is what I needed. Center diff replaced, both front wheel bearings This took care of all of the symptoms I was having. Binding in turns, (center diff) roar when turning to the right on the highway above 40 mph. This also cured the whining I was getting in the tranny. I believe that the center diff was putting everything into a bind. i.e. causing the whine I was getting while rolling. Hats of to the great service I received from the service manager at Beechmont Subaru in Cincinnati. Scott Snyder and his technician took good care of me. I put 1700 miles on the car last week with no problems! Mike
  7. I fill through the air bleed hole while running.
  8. I've seen more surprising things. If the engine is in good shape, thats not bad. I agree with what Emily said! Check the parts price to rebuild and then play around with the labor hours at 30- 50 dollars per hour.
  9. It would provide valuable info if I had pulled the axles. Like ruling out the axles as a cause of the noise. the old 20:20 hind sight. Can the bearing be examined with out replacement? In other words, pull, clean, inspect relube and re assemble?
  10. This noise was there before the diff work. I thought it was to the right side at first, but after replacing the right bearings we check both sides and nothing from the right, then loaded the left side with the sensors. I could hear the noise from the left bearing hub, strut tower and tie rod sensors, but not at the level I would expect. The car is still in the shop. Monday morning I will go back and have them check the nut on the right side. We did have one sensor on the left ball joint and did not hear anything signficant. Guess I could check the right. Thanks
  11. Thanks Gary, I have not replaced the tranny. They did replace the center diff. This is not a problem now. They also replaced the right side wheel bearing, and the noise is still there. After this, I drove the car with listening sensors at the left tie rod, bearing hub, and strut tower. (The sensors allow you to listen while driving, to the noise output at each location.) I never hear from the head phones the level of noise I would expect from the bearing. This is why I am thinking axles? But I guess it could still be the left bearings. Mike
  12. The noise is not clicking. It is a roar above 40mph and only when when turning the wheel to the right. As soon as the wheel is straightened the noise goes away. Turning to the left there is no noise.

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