RallyKeith
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Posts posted by RallyKeith
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Look under the dash for a pair of I believe it is green connectors with only two connections. If they are plugged into each other disconnect them. They put the ECU into a diagnostic mode and the fan runs all the time to allert you of that.
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I'm picking up an 05 legacy base sedan with a 5spd. It's a PA car so it should be federal emissions. It's got a slight knock in the bottom end. I might be able to pick up an inexpensive motor from an 06 Impreza where the right head was damaged in an accident but the bottom end "should" be ok. From what I can tell the short block assemblies should be identical but I was hoping someone on here would know for sure.
Thanks,
Keith
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Working on my stepfather's 98 Legacy Outback and it's throwing a Trans Code 23 which is "Engine Speed Signal - Detects open or shorted input signal circuit" The car seems to drive normally and everything else seems to be functioning. No CEL, no hard shifting other than the first shift when cold. No obvious tourque bind. What should I be looking at or for? Stepfather smokes like a chimney in the car so it's full of ash, don't know if that matters since I believe the TCU is in front of your left knee under the dash?
Suggestions?
Keith
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I believe they will fit unless you have a turbo. So the GTs and Spec Bs i think need 17s to clear the brakes.
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You have learned the hard way what NOT to do to your transmission. I once owned a 97 5psd Impreza. I did a panic super hard shift from 1st to 2nd while trying to avoid being rear ended at a stop sign. I avoided the rear ending but I couldn't get the car out of 2nd for the drive home. The next day I got it out of 2nd but it wouldn't go back in. 1,3,4,5 and R all worked fine. My car was almost brand new at the time. Took it back to the dealer. They pulled apart the transmission and found the 1-2 shift fork was bent.
The bottom line is the cars do have limits and in almost any subaru the tranny is the weakest link because of the AWD and massive amount of force that gets generated by the traction of all 4 wheels. In your era of car the transmissions have a real issue with the syncros and shifting with 1st and 2nd gear. I'm sure by now you've noticed you have to be at almost a complete stop to get the car into 1st. Don't force it or you can cause the same damage. They've gotten much better as the years progressed. My '06 shifts like a dream when compared to my 95-97 era cars.
Good luck on getting it fixed.
Keith
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Was there a smell of raw gas at all? A common failure is the coolant temperature sensor. There is one physical piece that bolts into the coolant crossover pipe but it has two sensors in it. One for the dash gauge and one for the ECU. If the one for the ECU goes bad the ECU can think the engine is cold when it's really hot and it adds extra gas and can flood the engine. You can typically smell raw gas from the exhaust when this happens though.
Keith
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Thanks for the input. My cousin started his own basement finishing and remodeling buisness last year. He's currently looking at the project. I found a local place that will sell me a kit of all the lumber, doors, windows, siding, and roofing for $8400. I just need to get the pad done and put it together. While I'm no framer by trade, I don't think it's anything I and my friends that are in construction and electrical couldn't handle. We would just take a little longer... but maybe not if I get 6-7 guys. Anyhow, I do have the luxury of living in the heart of "Amish country". I've got "Amish Shed" builders everywhere I turn. Right now they are the place where I think I could get everything for around $15000. It all boils down to what's my time worth. I don't exactly have a ton of time on my hands. I can do so much of this on my own or with the help of friends and family, but what price do you put on the month or two of time I could be doing other things.
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It amazes me the vast differences in the prices I'm getting for the garage I'm trying to build. I've been "shopping around" for a few weeks now. Meeting with contractors, construction companies, and shed manufacturers. With very few variations in final product, I've got prices from about $14,000 to $34,000! That's quite a swing. I've even worked out that I can pay someone for the site and pad work, buy a garage "kit" and build it myself for about $12,000. Decisions Decisions
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I have no experience with Outbacks, but are you sure you have a problem or is it just that it's not what you think it should be? I had a 95 Legacy Brighton and a 96 Legacy GT. The GT steered harder than the Brighton but that was because of design. Similar to how the GTs had 4.44 rear ends to make them accelerate faster than the Ls, the GT's steering was "harder" to make it feel like you were more in touch with the road.
Keith
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The clutch is the weak spot on the manual Subaru's If you start out in second and floor it it will slip even when new
That is not right. The clutch is the weak spot for sure but it shouldn't slip when the pedal is out in any gear but 1st and even then only when doign High RPM clutch drops. I've owned every flavor of stick shift subaru imaginable from a recent STi to an 84 hatch and none of them behaved like that.
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Need a lot more detail please.
Does it shift into the gear normally but when you let the clutch out nothing happens?
Does it not want to shift into the gear?
Before you "lost" the gear were there any symptoms? IE seemed like it would just barely grab the gear or excessive grinding while trying to get into the gear?
You need to give us as much detail as possible if you want a chance of figuring it out.
Keith
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As Josh said it's really about making the holes bigger in either the hub or the strut to allow for the hub to move. I think on our rally car we actually ground the hub out to allow the adjustment on any struts we installed.
Keith
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I should mention that while the Brighton is bare bones, all the wiring is there to upgrade things if you are so inclined. I installed a tach, rear door speakers, rear wiper, and cruise control to my brighton. All were plug and play operations once I had the components.
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My '06 manual, which I have in PDF, does say it is to be used on a rear wheel. However, I did get a flat last year on a rear wheel about 1 mile from home. I put on the donut and drove home. I did notice that if I sped up to about 45 it would do as you described which is why I only did it for a second. When I got home I discovered that the donut had leaked air and was only at about 40psi. I believe it's supposed to be at 70 or 80. Anyhow, it does sound like center diff got damaged somehow.
Keith
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Also have the ENTIRE exhaust system checked. A hit on the muffler can be translated all the way up to the engine in the right situation. It's unlikely, but not impossible, for a flange to get bent or cracked and eventually fail.
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Yeah, rear drum brakes but they work just fine -- it's not a performance car.
It's not about the performance, it's about the maintanence and difficulty of replacing shoes. Drums rust to the hubs. Drums wear a ridge into them where you risk braking the tabs on the wheel cylinders trying to get the drums off. The shoes are held in place with spring clips that are a pain to get on and twisted the quarter turn. All much more difficult than one bolt and c-clamp to replace disk pads.
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I don't know for sure, but I believe the Brightons (at least mine did) come with really annoying drum brakes in the rear where as the rest have disk.
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Despite having started this thread back in september, I haven't actually had the garage built yet. Wanted to save a little more, get rid of some cars, and wait for a tax return. Now that the tax return is here, the cars are gone, and all the snow is melted from my yard it's time to begin. I'll be contacting builders later this week. Current plan is for a 26' wide by 24' deep with 10-12 attic trusses and a single 20' garage door centered. I'm going to take some of the advice given here and not epoxy coat, rather seal it. Should be fun. I hope to be done by the end of april, but we'll see.
Keith
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Brighton is a bare bones model. AC was the only thing standard. The stereo usually only had front speakers, the windows were crank, it has no tachometer, manual mirrors, and in the wagons no rear wiper.
As for the Outback, it's really just a regular L or GT with 2-tone paint, stiffer suspension, and higher ground clearance.
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Sounds like you want a prodrive P2
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prodrive_P2
Too bad they decided not to make it and only ever used it as a platform to demostrate their insane engineering abilities. Insane enough to Make Jeremy Clarkson from Top Gear Puke after driving it on a skid pad!
Keith
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Even with the calipers sticking, I don't see how I overheated the rotors. There is no bluing on them or discoloration. I have never felt excessive amounts of heat at the wheel or smelled anything funny. I know Subaru's are great cars but this generation sucks rump roast. I plan on having the rotors turned or at least checked for run out before I mount the new calipers.
You ask and I shall explain. I'm not going to go into much detail but it works like this. The caliper sticks and so the brake pads are constantly engaged. This heats up the metal of the rotor evenly as the car is moving. The heated metal of the rotar is actually expanding ever so slightly until it hits the pads where it gets compressed slighlty. (This is why pads that are driven hard tend to be warn more on the incoming edge.) When you come to a complete stop the metal in the area of the pads is not allowed to expand and cool the same way as the rest of the rotor. This leaves a slight indentation, not visable to the naked eye, in the area where the pads were. This can happen with out the rotors ever getting hot enough to glow or blue as you mentioned. That little indentation is now your vibration. Racing cars I have first hand knowledge and experiance with this. That's why at the end of every rally stage we immediately pull the hand brake once the car has come to a stop.
Hope that helps explain what is happening and can also act as advice on how you can prolong the life of your brake rotors.
Keith
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What I typically see is where the piston dust boot fails and the piston itself corrodes and seizes. It's part of the problem of the salt belt we live in. Sometimes you can get away with squirting brake fluid in behind the boot and then working the piston in and out a few times and that will free it up, but that usually only last a few months. If that is the case, corrosion on the piston, rebuilding with a new piston only saves a few dollars over buying a remanufactered caliper from a parts store, and in my opinion the few dollars are worth spending. Getting all the seals in place and getting the piston back in can be a challenge, especially if you have dual piston calipers.
Keith
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I'm running yellow stars in my fogs. They are just a little yellow, enough to notice and help in actual fog. They aren't super yellow like you would get if you had a yellow lens fog. If you want that, go with the OPTILUX Extreme (Made by Hella) bulbs.
Just remember, http://www.rallylights.com has all your Hella Lighting needs! Sorry, they're my friends and I buy all my Lighting equipment from them.
Keith
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Can you clarify a few things for us:
1. Did the Subaru Dealer ever see this car or have you always taken it to an independant repair facility?
2. Are you having the HEAD Gaskets replaced or the Valve Cover Gaskets replaced? From the description you gave it sounds like HEAD gaskets.
These cars have what is called the phase 2 EJ25 engine and have a known issue with the head gaskets. It is something that is more of a neusence than a problem with them leaking antifreeze and requiring frequent refilling of the coolant. Subaru has a conditioner that goes in the antifreeze to fix the issue. If your car was serviced at the dealership you should check with them to see if they have any record of putting the conditioner in your car. If they did this shouldn't have happened.
Also, if you are having the head gaskets replaced, or if it's been done already, you should visit the dealer and get the conditioner and put it in yourself. Just replacing the head gaskets doesn't always fix the issue, but using the conditioner should.
Keith
Rally-X Kempton PA, Sunday November 24th 2013
in Rally/Racing
Posted
The Blue Mountain Region of the Sports Car Club of America Presents:
Kempton County Fairgrounds RallyCross #1 - November 24th, 2013
What is it?
A RallyCross is any event in which one vehicle at a time is timed over a defined course on a generally unpaved, flat surface and consists of short straight sections and connecting turns or corners. The emphasis is on vehicle handling and agility rather than speed or power. Scoring is based on total time for all runs plus penalties. We will be following all rules as set forth by the SCCA. The rules can be found at: http://scca.cdn.racersites.com/prod/assets/2013%20RallyCross%20Rules-Revised.pdf
Where is it?
Kempton County Fairgrounds
83 Community Drive
Kempton, PA 19529
When is it?
Suggested arrival time: 7:30AM-8AM
Registration & Tech opens at 8AM – 9:10AM
Driver's meeting: 9:15AM
First car off by: 10AM
Finish and cleanup: 4PM
Who can enter?
Anyone with a valid driver's license can run. You must be an SCCA member but if you are not an SCCA member you can buy a Weekend Membership for $10.
Entry fees will be $40 for those preregistering on Myautoevents.com and $50 for those registering at the event.
We will accept a maximum of 50 entries.
In order to receive a refund, you must contact the registrar prior to 8:00 PM on the day online registration closes.
Each Entrant is required to wear a Snell 2000 or better rated helmet. We will have a few loaners but it is highly recommended that you bring your own.
This is a work to play event. That means that if your group is not running, your group will be out working the course. Without this we couldn’t make these events happen. This work may entail any of the following: Working a hand held radio and calling in cones knocked down on course, running out on course between cars to reset knocked over cones, Manning a red flag and fire extinguisher in the event of an incident on course, Shoveling or raking a little dirt.
What kind of car can I bring?
The event is open to any fixed-roof production based vehicle (including convertibles with a factory hardtop attached like a Miata, targa-types with factory panel in place, t-tops with factory panels in place) that can pass a safety inspection as defined in the rules linked above.
We will follow the standard RallyCross classes:
Stock Rear Wheel Drive, Stock Front Wheel Drive, Stock All Wheel Drive
Prepared Rear Wheel Drive, Prepared Front Wheel Drive, Prepared All Wheel Drive
Modified Rear Wheel Drive, Modified Front Wheel Drive, Modified All Wheel Drive
In General:
We plan to give each entrant at least six runs and very likely more.
We will run two sessions of competition, a morning session and an afternoon session with the course changing between sessions.
We will run two groups of competitors, Group A and Group B with Group running first in the morning and first in the afternoon.
Group A includes Stock A, F and R and Prepared A and F. Group B includes Prepared R and Modified A, F and R.
Adjustments may be made to classes within groups depending on the distribution of entries.
For more information contact me, Keith Kennedy, here, or for up to the minute updates and info find us on Facebook - BMR RallyX