1985GLWAGON

Hey Camel, funny thing, I just pulled off my air cleaner to get a better look and I DO have that nozzle on my carb (your pic #4) I couldn't see it because someone put a plug on it. I also just noticed that I have a plug on one of those metal lines under the manifold too (pic #3), I almost thought maybe they should be connected but I don't know for sure. I wish there was a pictoral diagram for the vacuum hose routing, those schematics don't help me much. The other thing is my EGR doesn't seem to work either! I put my finger over the hose and felt it at idle and WOT at both cold and warmed up temps and it never had any vacuum applied, so that means my egr isn't doing anything either. Just when I thought I had this engine figured out! I also just realized I do have one of those thermal vacuum sensor things like you have on top of your water outlet, mine is just sort of down and next to it, I can't believe I never noticed it! Anyway, I believe that on my mustang those sensors controlled vacuum supply to the egr valve. And I bet it might on these subies too. Because on my car the hoses from that sensor go to a couple of those metal lines in pic #3, so I bet one of those does go over to the egr valve. May just be that that sensor is bad or something, I don't even know how I'd go about testing it. But I bet you anything that if your egr isn't working then that's why you have high HC's in your emissions tests, I think the EGR is supposed to help burn the extra HC's that don't get burned the first time by sucking them in for a second pass through the combustion chamber.

Yeah, if it had a vacuum leak that'd definitely make it run bad, I'd think it'd make you fail emissions as well, are you going to retest?

#1: same on mine. #2: same on mine from what I can see, after the "T" fitting one end goes to a metal line near the carb and the other runs towards the fender and runs the heater controls. #3: Not sure if any of them do, I think those and the egr line are coming out from underneath the manifold seperately? I Don't really know. #4: Can't help you there either, must be another california thing, my carb doesn't have a line there. I would take some pics but my cat decided she liked the taste of flash memory cards!

This might be a stupid question but does it make a difference between the 2 styles of horns? (Flat and round disc like in the subaru, and the snail-shell shaped horns like in my Ford) I guess I never thought there might be a difference in how they're hooked up. I've been talking about putting in the snail-shell style horns, they're bigger but cheaper and more common from what I can tell.

I saw that harbor freight has some fiamm horns, so they are 2 terminal style? I don't remember where I got the first horn I tried but the other I got at autozone and was supposed to be universal. But both horns go to ground through the mounting hardware, and had just one spade connector for the positive side which is what the horn relay/button was to control. I've seen lots of cars like that, it's easier to only have one wire routed to the horn than two (the button usually controls ground to a relay which when activated puts positive to the horn), my F-150 did and so did my Audi and my Monte Carlo, in fact I think my subaru is the first I've seen with 2 wires, my kia might have 2, I haven't looked at it.

Anyone know where I can get some OEM style replacement horns at? NOS or aftermarket, I don't care, but I want to be able to wire them up correctly. I'm having that problem where any aftermarket horns I find are case-grounded so it'd be a whole mess to mount them while insulating them from the body ground. On my car the horns are the flat round type behind/below the headlights, with a constant +12v applied and the horn switch provides the ground. Any sources out there? Thnks!

Yeah, gauge is all-electric, no oil lines. What I thought was maybe the light comes on when the pressure sender reaches some critically low point. My owner's manual says it can be normal to have the gauge at almost 0 psi when idling, so maybe the light is a backup to let you know when pressure is really critically low, lower than what the gauge can tell you. The manual is for a GL specifically and doesn't have diagrams for an idiot light only setup like on a DL. It just says the oil light should light up when ignition is on, doesn't sound like it's an "if equipped" sort of thing, more like it should light period, regardless of model, So I still don't know for sure. But since there's nothing wrong with her otherwise I guess I'll just leave it be, I don't know what else I can do to find out for sure.

I could only find 2 sensor wires at all and one is for the coolant temp sender and the other for the oil pressure sender, so unless the light comes on as a backup warning, I guess it's not used at all. Anyone else have a GL wagon that can confirm this?

Just pulled out my owner's manual and it calls the light the "Oil Pressure Indicator Light", so looks like you're right, light must not be active on gauge-equipped vehicles. I just assumed they both worked like on my Audi but I guess a Subaru aint no Audi . Makes sense too, since I have a MT it just goes without saying that the AT temp light doesn't light up, so since I have a pressure gauge the pressure light doesn't light up either. Thanks guys! That pretty much cleared it all up!

Sorry edrach, I just got what you meant, I guess I don't know, is the light not utilized on full-gauge cluster cars? I just assumed it still worked but I don't know, never thought about it that way.

I have both a pressure gauge and a light, but what I don't know is what sets off the light? Is it the pressure sender if it gets too low, or a seperate oil temp sensor or what? That's one of the things I've been wondering about, if the pressure gauge shows me the pressure then what is the light for? Manual just says if the light comes on then turn engine off as soon as possible, so maybe the light is just a redundancy to remind you to look at the pressure gauge?

Yeah Camel, I do have a bulb in my ECS light, but it doesn't light up and I assume it's not supposed to since I don't have a computer. One thing though, you said you don't have the fusable link, but do you have the prongs inside the box for one to attach? If who ever altered your car wanted to eliminate the feedback carb functions they might have just pulled the computer's fusable link to deactivate it. I ask because my fusable link box is just completely empty in the first slot, no prongs to attach a link to or anything. So if yours does have prongs I'd bet you just need a new link.

I knew it! It's a cali car, that accounts for all the differences. Anyway, that's definitely for an 02 sensor, the other guys must be right about the exhaust having been changed out with a non-cali donor car. Probably whenever it came up to where you're at, someone wanted to de-emmissions it a little. I would definitely think getting it hooked back up would at least help with the emissions problem if not fix it totally.

Same thing with my oil light, bulb is okay, but it just won't light up with the rest.

That switch just controls the yellow "Lo" light, I don't know where the switch is for the green 4x4 lights.

You're lucky, that much less emissions junk to worry about, from what I can tell the EA82's could have 2, 1, or even no ASV's. That plug on your air cleaner must be factory then, I thought that it might be since it looks like it fits perfectly and still has the factory clamp on it. I'll check back later to see if you got a pic of that wire.

Really? I never knew that the electric one was the main fan, guess it makes sense, since most FWD cars nowadays have only one electric. Guess I just didn't think about it. Anyway, I'm glad mine came with AC since my electric fan has a bad squeal and the thermo-switch has never worked since I've gotten it.

Yeah, 4 slots with first slot empty on mine too. Camelwagon, can you post a pic of the wire? I looked at mine and I don't see anything down there, what type of wire is it (gauge/color), is it just an individual wire or does it have a couple of them?

Mine's an '85 DR 4x4 and it has both fans, I'd recommend putting a mechanical one back in, the electric fans on these, and especially the thermo-switch are notorious for going out. I assume you don't have the metal shroud there anymore? I'd just put a fan on anyway, and if you have access to a junkyard or something see if you can pull a shroud too, I think it's just like 4 bolts or so.

Hey Camelwagon, where does the dangling wire come out of the wiring harness at? I don't have an ECU so if you do, I'd bet that's why our cars are so different. My owner's manual says that federal-spec 4x4's don't have an ECU, so I'm wondering if your car has the California specs. When you turn the key to "ON" and the warning lights all light up do you have a light on the very right that says ECS? Mine doesn't light because I don't have one.

Yeah, mine doesn't have a O2 sensor either, I don't think I have any wiring for one either, I'll have to check it out.

Yeah, I meant the exhaust type backfire sound, not a true carb backfire. It's always done that when I let off the gas (have a big hole in exhaust right in front of the muffler) and it doesn't do it any more or less often than before nor any difference in tone or loudness, just the lack of braking. I'll check the timing, I had it set at 10 degrees I think but I can't remember, it was just a hair above stock though I remember that. I checked both my ASV's and they are working right, (sucking not blowing).

This is kind of weird but I recently adjusted my carb, I tried the method someone posted on here and it seems to have worked. I turned the mixture screw down to the bottom then out 3 full turns and started it, it ran perfect, I adjusted the idle to 750 on the dot. And took her for a spin, I now have almost no engine braking effect. What could possibly do that? It accelerates just as before and backfires when I let of the gas in gear just as before but almost no brake effect. Before it would practically slam my face in the steering wheel if I let totally off the gas while in 1st gear. It almost feels as though the clutch is slipping on deceleration but I doubt it's the clutch, since it was fine right before the carb adjustment. So, I guess what I'm asking is what kind of engine braking is normal? Was it too harsh before and running correctly now? OR is it not running correctly now? The engine seems to run better and I like that but I also like a little engine braking too.

Yeah, I tested all the bulbs and just to be sure I swapped different bulbs to different sockets and lubed everything with dielectric grease too. After I put her back together everything was exactly the same. I don't think it's a problem in the dash wiring, it looked brand new and although I didn't test everything the ones I did test had good grounds, I traced the oil light's wiring as far as I could and no voltage with ign. on. others around it did have voltage like they were supposed to. So what actually controls the light? Is there a ecu or something somewhere, or a sensor under the hood? I don't know where the wiring goes once it disappears behind the instrument cluster.

What would I check to fix a oil warning light that won't light? I checked the bulb and connections in the dash all seem to be in really good shape. What is the sensor that it uses to light the bulb? (so I can see if the sensor will still light it) When I turn the ign on, all that light are the alt, egr, stop lamp, and brake fluid. I don't have a auto so no AT temp light, but the oil light, R. Gate Lock light, and ECS light do not come on. Does the R. Gate light only work on power-lock vehicles? I have manual locks. And I think going by the manual my car doesn't use the ECS light either, so those are accounted for I think, but no oil light. No real reason why I want to know, no problems with the car, I just want everything to work right, plus if there ever is a non-pressure related oil problem I won't be notified about it. Just got done soldering the mirror controls back to working order. And now I'm moving to the dash. My brights indicator doesn't light either. Thanks for any info!