1985GLWAGON

If it's grinding when you try and put it in gear it sounds like you just need to tighten up the slack in the clutch cable, it's probably not disengaging completely even with the pedal to the floor. (assuming XT's have a cable type clutch, I don't know myself):-\ somebody else can probably tell you better.

Crap! Job was a bust, oh well. I'm DEFINITELY selling her this time so if anyone's still interested check her out. Thanks folks!!

[1985GLWAGON: Thanks for the warning. Most mechanics are good folks just trying to earn a living like the rest of us. But some mechanics and some shops are bad news - dishonest and/or incompetent. Fortunately, I've encountered more of the former than the latter. I'm hoping our son, Brett, will visit this thread and read some of the posts, so he can see how much support there is out in the Subaru community. BTW, do you remember if there were any wrecking yards in Grand Forks? And, if so, do you recall their reputation? Sorry Rick I never got into cars at that age, and never really knew any yards at all up there. (I know, I know I'm Sooo helpful! but anyway I didn't mean ALL mechanics are bad just all the ones I've met! LOL

This isn't really any help but if he ends up having to take it to a shop DO NOT let him go to the Goodyear shop there. I lived in GF for years and my Mom went to them to have a used engine put in her pinto and they totally Fked it up! She had to put it in R to drive and 1 to park! I was a kid then but looking back I think they took out her good tranny and put in a crappy one that came with the used engine. I HATE mechanics!!!!!!

Upon some good advice (thanks Sweet82!) I'm reposting my A/C question under a new title. So here's the situation: My A/C evaporator core is gone but the rest of the entire system is intact and whoever removed it blocked the lines with plastic so no debris could get in. My question is will the system still be good? Like the seals and stuff? I'm thinking about getting a new core but only if I can be pretty sure the compressor and stuff still work, can I test it without the lines hooded up? I have no idea how long it's been that way but it's been at least a year and probably more.

Hey, I got a job so I cancelled the auction, I get to keep my baby for now. So, while i'm here I have a question. My A/C evaporator core is gone but the rest of the entire system is intact and whoever removed it blocked the lines with plastic so no debris could get in. My question is will the system still be good? Like the seals and stuff? I'm thinking about getting a new core but only if I can be pretty sure the compressor and stuff still work, I have no idea how long it's been that way but it's been at least a year and probably more.

Unfortunately NONE! At least not until I get another job.

Hey folks, I've decided to sell my baby, so check her out! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7979611526

I'm moving to Nashville, and Tennessee is an emission testing state. Well, I need advice from any of you folks who live in a smog controlled state. How do I know what to fix if it fails? I have no idea if the emissions system even works anymore on my wagon, and I have a giant hole in my exhaust system. I don't even know where to begin with getting her ready. Any suggestions on where to start?

Hey guys, just wondering if you subaru vets out there could give me an idea what my beast is worth. It's a '85 GL wagon with DR4x4 and 5spd with about 136k miles. Out of the entire car the only things that don't work are the A/C and the rear washer (pump works, it's just missing the nozzle) It also needs some exhaust work. Brand new BigO tires with about 2k on them. I just replaced the fuel pump and filter, plugs, wires, cap & rotor, oil + wix filter, and changed the tranny oil. It's Flare Red and has very little rust for subie of this age. I have a couple pics of her in the gallery. Just wondering what you guys thought of her, and what in your opinion is the best way to sell? Paper classifieds, side of the road, ebay, something else? I like ebay, but the other wagons on there aren't doing to well and most of them are 6 or 7 years newer than mine.

Is the exhaust on these really all bolt-on? No welding? I was looking it over and everything seems to be bolted. So my question is, should I put on a new exhaust myself or just have a shop do it? I've never done exhaust work before but my other cars involved welding. I plan on replacing everything but the cat I'll reuse that, or eliminate it just wondering what experiences you folks have had. Oh, and if you want to know why I'm replacing, I have a huge hole in the pipe right before the muffler and the whole sytem from cat back is rusting to pieces.

Definitely Harborfreight. I got one to keep in my trunk tool kit in each of my cars. They were digital and fully functioned, and only $4.95! Even come with the battery preinstalled. They've never given me any problems, I even got oil all over one, just wiped it off and it works fine.

Yeah, it's an EA82, only one filter right next to the pump. Just wasn't sure which way it flowed, both metal lines kind of go the same way, the one coming from the pump goes a little more towards the front of the car so I figure that must be the line to the carb and the other one going to the filter must be the tank line.

That's irritating too, for another reason, I wanted to replace all the crusty old hose under there, I'll just have to leave the tank to filter line in place. Just to confirm, am I right? Is the flow chart like this: Tank-filter-pump-engine? I'll wait till the tank is almost empty and just let the rest drain out, and then replace that tank to filter hose.

That's what I figured, that really pisses me off, I mean everybody knows Haynes manuals aren't exactly helpful, but they usually don't leave something like that out, my tank's almost full, what if I'd just yanked the whole hose off or something, I'd have gallons and gallons all over my driveway. I don't have a c-clamp, so I think I'll use a vicegrips over a couple pennies!, thanks for the info!

This may be a dumb question but when you replace the fuel pump (the kind under the pass. side rear) does the tank need to be empty or something? I ask because all the manuals I have that walk through the procedure say to relieve the pressure, which I've done, and they say to then remove the hoses and catch the SMALL fuel spillage with a rag...well...I just did that and about a 1/2 gallon came out practically in my face! I barely was able to slip the hose back on the pump to stop the torrent. They don't say squat about draining the tank or anything. So what's the deal, everything says there should be just a little spillage and that's it. But mine had no end. Am I missing something here? I'm getting my new fuel pump tomorrow and I wanted to prep the area and get the old pump off, etc. Also, while I think of it which is first in the cycle of flow the filter or the pump? I assume the filter is to protect the pump but I think my old filter is in backward, the arrow points away from the pump. Any help people??

Thanks guys, I guess the liquid wrench just needed some soak-in time, I jacked her up to try again this morning and it just popped off. I guess now I have to see about the other 3! I seem to be proned to this problem for some reason, my Tacoma does it too, every time I need to rotate the tires the fronts stick. I found out that if I loosen the lug nuts until they're just barely snug and then slowly drive a few feet and slam on the brakes that that'll usually break em' free. ( I was going to try this on the subaru but didn't want to unless I had to. Well, thanks folks, you'll hear from me again when I have another problem with the subaru. 5....4....3....2....

My rear wheels are rusted onto the brake drum, and I cannot get them off! Anyone know a secret method to get them off? I used half a can of a couple different penetrants and nothing, I even (carefully) lowered the entire weight of the car onto the wheel with no lug nuts on, and even shook the car around and still it won't break free. They aren't completely immobile, I can pry each spoke of the wheel and it will pull away from the drum just a little, it seems to be stuck around the center hub area. Any help folks??

Tires were only rated for 35 psi, they had ZERO bulge on the bottom, that's what tipped me off to check the pressure. I don't know if it would have damaged them but they looked ready to burst. I'm going to check into that book too. Found out today someone rigged the fuel pump all back-assward. They replaced it with some el-cheapo brand and spliced it in. (they ran a wire up through the bottom of the back seat along the rocker panel, through the firewall and hooked it to a post on the ignition coil of all places. The pump makes an awful clicking sound with the power turned on. Which brings me to my question, the stock harness is still there intact but I didn't get any power out of it. Where is the fuse at? There's a fuse marked "Fuel" on the fuse block but it's empty with no terminals inside. Is there a relay? If I can get the harness connector to work I'll buy a OEM style pump and fix it right, $96 from NAPA, but otherwise I'll just leave it.

Sounds like a bad conection to me, I don't know how many of my cars did that same thing: click,click, etc. The clicking is because it's not getting enough juice to turn it over. In my cars the other electrical accessories worked just fine because they didn't draw as many amps. For me it was always a bad electrical connection, usually a battery cable or even a loose engine ground. I found that putting dielectric grease on everything and I mean EVERYTHING electrical usually fixed it.

Thanks for all the tips people! I just changed the tranny oil today, I used 80W-90 I figure it's good enough although I had to use the cheap Coastal brand since they didn't have enough of any other brand in stock, and I didn't want to mix brands. Didn't notice any difference in driving but I guess that's a good thing since It drove perfectly before! I'm going to wait till it warms up a little outside to do the cooling system, and that leaves me with NOTHING to do! This is the first used car I've ever gotten (#6 and counting) that really needs nothing done. Even the tires are brand new (although the guy must have been one of those people who looks at their tires and says "it looks a little low, I'll just add a bit of air" instead of using a gauge. They had 40+ psi in them! And that was when it was 35 degrees outside in the morning.

That was the other thing, how do you make the EGR light go out? I assume it's just the reminder light not an actual malfuction.

Yeah, cooling system was my next hurdle since summer is coming. I figured on new hoses, stat, pump, etc. Probably do the timing belt then. I wish the shifter slop thing was easier to fix, I'll probably just leave it, the whole reason I bought it was to learn to drive a stick shift. What do you guys think of the maxlife valvoline oils? That's what's going in since I already bought it. Also, what gear lube would you recommend to make the tranny last the longest? Redline oil? It's pricey but only a few quarts is needed. Thanks guys!

Hey folks! Just got my very first Subaru. '85 GL Wagon 4WD-DR. And so far I can't believe it! I always thought these things were junk but it's actually a cool little car. I paid $550 for mine and almost everything works on it. I just went through a mud trail behind my house that I've never gotten through with any other car. Okay enough with the joy, I wanted to know if there's any routine maint. that I should do to protect my new baby? I just changed the plugs and all filters today (even that pcv filter!) Anyplace online have replacement parts? Autozone don't have much. I want new plug wires, cap & rotor etc. Also, what's the average life expectancy of a EA82 motor? mines got 136k and counting. I just mean how long until a rebuild is gonna be knockin' ? And I'm just looking for any other subie tips you veterans might have to keep her healthy.