TomRhere
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Posts posted by TomRhere
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Check your trans gear lube lever to make sure they didn't over fill it. That could cause a leak.
Also, you're missing the support bracket for the Y-pipe. It comes off the trans and bolts to that flange just ahead of where the drip is on the pipe.
Been a while since I saw the bottom of a 4-speed, but I think the bracket bolts to the two bolts on the trans, just above the sway bar.
Really should get one back on there, be it original or a fabbed up one.
Nice looking BRAT!!!!!
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Guilty of that one myself.
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May be weak trans/engine mounts and worn shifter bushings not letting the trans go fully into selected gear(s).
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Well if it is coming from the PCV threads, that manifold has serious issues, as in casting flaw that cracked into the coolant passage on the bottom of the manifold.
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Did you check for spark from the coil-disty lead when you tried the hot-wire?
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Pin-hole leak in one of the coolant lines/hoses, and the stream just happens to land near the PVC is my guess.
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Hot wire the coil by hooking a wire from battery + to coil + and see if it will crank over and run.
You'll have to remove that wire to shut engine off if it does.
Let us know what happens.
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EA81 and EA82 carb/SPFI intakes manifold gasket are the same.
I've seen both Blue and Tan colored ones from the Dealer I order thru.
Subaru # 14035AA150
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Shipping shouldn't be all that much. I'm about 3 hours away from you.
Had one HH leak, so I removed it. Pulled the others as I found them to be more hassle than benefit.
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White Lithium Spray grease is far better for door/hood/trunk latches and hinges.
There should be a plastic sleeve on the striker. If it's missing or badly worn, the door won't latch shut properly.
Same striker is used on all doors, just flip it over for PS-DS.
You can work the door latch itself with a Phillips screw driver.
Place it were the striker would hit and move it towards the outside of door. Should feel 2 distinct clicks for full latch.
If you don't feel both clicks, spray grease into latch working the straw around inside of latch. Keep working the latch after you sprayed it by holding the outside handle in the open position and working latch with the screwdriver.
Should free it up after a few cycles. If not, latch is likely toast.
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Yeah, just o-ring seal(s) from what I remember of that thread.
For Master Cylinder upgrade there's this. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/157224-i-just-upgraded-my-master-cylinderheres-what-i-found/
I have a few HH valves here, I take them off of mine.
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Passenger door lock has key code on it, from what I've read on here.
Turbo XT won't have 5-lug. It will have 4-lug rear disc brakes however. Easy swap.
Should also have 3.7 LSD in the rear diff. Swap your 3.9 ring gear onto that center section and put it back in your diff case.
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Top front of Left side of engine has the engine series ID cast into it.
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That line is roughly 1/4", so a fuel filter for a riding lawn mower and a length of hose would work to let the tank breath and keep debris out.
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Fuel vapor line, went to the charcoal canister. It also lets the tank breath, so you need to unplug it.
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Make sure you didn't swap plug wires up.
--------1-----
----3--------4
--------2----- 0n the cap.
3-------4
1-------2 on the engine.
It happens more than one thinks.
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Well, it gives the car a some what built-in theft deterrent system. Might even be a good selling point as long as the rest of the electrical system works correctly.
I know around here, not many drivers of older vehicles will turn on the headlights during the day, even in poor visibility conditions.
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You replace the mount bracket itself. Only available thru Subaru.
May be able to find an after-market bushing to fit though.
EA82 and XT(6) all use same mount, opens the search for replacement. Or so I understand that is.
Same with the bracket that holds the front of the diff up. And EA81 uses that one also.
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Fairly certain that the fuel pump relay is controlled by the ECU in all the FI models.
Not sure on pin-out differences of ECU between auto seat belt standard seat belt ones.
Also not sure of pin-out difference between the rear main body harnesses either.
There's a few more wires for the auto belt stuff, but are the lighting, fuel pump, and other basic wires in the same position on both harnesses. I don't know...
All I have for wiring diagram info is a Haynes Manual with their "Typical" wiring info.
Only advice I can offer is to check pin-outs of the connectors for ECU and rear harness between the old and new harnesses. A pain in the arse job for sure.
I can send you the rest of the '92's wiring harness and ECU, just pay shipping cost.
I have no need for it, just kept it when I scrapped the Wagon.
Swapping the harness out is another PITA job though.
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Yes. It had the Automatic seat occupant choking devices.
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Okay. I read that as EA82 "and" DR 5-speed. I claim "Old Timers" on that...
There are 2 versions of the EA71, mainly has to do with starter location. And I don't recall what year they changed over to the side mounted starter. That engine is known as the "fat case" EA71. Earlier EA71 starters were center-top mounted and the 5-speed won't work on those.
Also may have clearance issue of the 5-speed and trans tunnel of vehicle from what I've read on here.
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Okay. Was just wondering if you had made any changes to the cars wiring during the prior EJ swap that may still be there is all.
Do know that the '92 Wagon was a DD until the rear crossmember collapsed.
I bought it for parts, drove it on/off the trailer, and around the property until the time came that it was stripped for it's goodies.
Really unsure as to what would cause the issue at hand.
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Was asking more about actual wiring changes than which relay the connector was plugged into.
anybody ever cut open their fuel tank?
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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I condone your efforts.
Try to go for the least amount of weld seams though. The fewer seams the better, as gasoline will find the tiniest of hole to leak out of.