[Any electrical gu-ru's out there?]

We all are here to "HELP" each other.

 

Glad I could do so.

[Any electrical gu-ru's out there?]

Okay, confusion on both ends it seems...

 

With the dimmer switch in "Low Beam" position, outer lights should be lit. All lights should be lit in "High Beam" position

 

Outer bulbs are 3-prong, ( l _ l ) with matching 3 prong connector, inner bulbs are 2-prong, ( l l ).

 

Looking at the front harness as I type this;

 

All 4 of the connectors for the bulbs are a 3-prong socket ( l _ l ), but the inner(high-beams) only use 2 of the wiring ports, ( l  l ).

 

Color code is as follows, looking at the connectors as they would go onto the bulbs;

 

Red/Black l _ l Red/Blue  for the High/Low bulb

           Red/White

 

Red/White l l Red/Blue for the inner (High Beam) bulb.

 

I have apparently cut one of the High/Low connections off this harness, otherwise I'd be willing to send it your way.

 

Had issue on the 85 BRAT that TDodge now owns of now Low-beam lights, but could "Flash" the High-beams with the dimmer switch.

Found burnt connection terminal in the dimmer switch harness connection under the dash.

Don't recall wire coloring now, but the bad connection was clearly obvious when I dug into things. 

 

Haven't opened the covering on this harness yet, but will do so if you need it done.

Just to see where the Factory splicing takes place.

Do my best to get good pics with the P.O.S. camera I have.

[Any electrical gu-ru's out there?]

I would buy a new High/Low bulb an atleast check to see if it works properly.

No need to swap the bulbs completely, just un-plug the one that's installed now, plug in new bulb.

 

The fact that your inner high beams works, tells me that the circuit is good, and something is amiss with the outer high beams.

All four high beams are controlled by the same wire at the dimmer switch, with splices/taps for each individual bulb coming off from the harness out front.

 

I have the lighting section of the harness here out of an '86 BRAT, I can check it to see where all of the splicing is.

Kept the harness, as I had the thought of converting my '88 Wagon over to the quad-light set-up. Never did so.

[Any electrical gu-ru's out there?]

Flasher for the Hazard Lights could be bad, or missing.

 

Had the latter issue on a few vehicles.

[86 gl10 with A/C & Fan motor issues]

Haven't seen any of the "Guru's" on here in a while.

 

I believe, that the mode control unit and mode actuator are the complete push-button assembly on the dash. It's two units, screwed together.

 

Had issue with my '88 where it wouldn't change modes unless I left the control unit loose in the dash. Found the vacuum part of the control to be broken in a few places. Swapped in another control, all is good.

 

No ideas on why your blower fan doesn't work. Not real knowledgeable on EA82 systems.

[1986 subaru 2 door hatctback]

Nice pipe/tube bending.

 

I suggest you now replace the copper tubing with some steel tubing bent to match.

Copper doesn't like vibrations all that well

Really don't want to be spewing vital engine fluids all over many miles from home.

[Anyone selling a weber]

Have one here already mounted on EA82 intake.

Boxed and ready to ship. Previous buyer backed out of deal.

 

PM me, we'll discuss details.

[Ruby Scoo - the whole story! Loads of pics! Australian L series build]

Thanks for taking us along on the trip.

 

Awesome scenery, especially the cliff/ocean shots.

[Whining 5spd/dr when in 4x4]

Also. Don't use 4WD on dry pavement.

Loose stuff only..

Snow, mud, sand. Heavy rain is a personal choice.

[have any of you guys taken a hydro lifter ea81 and changed it to solid lifters?]

The debate over which is better for performance has been going on for a few decades with the 1/4-mile bunch. Not much of a definitive answer has been proven that I know of. There's still those what run solids regardless.

 

Myself, I'd rather have hydro's, set 'em and forget 'em.

Proper oil change intervals with a good quality oil, and you should have no issues other than oil pump being properly sealed also.

[Hot-Rodding a Brat in two stages - Suggestions?]

I have cut them out of cereal boxes in the past for a temporary fix.

Not an easy task to do either.

[New brake system on GL?]

Proper rear shoe adjustment also.

[Fuel Sending Unit replacement 85 Brat]

Before you order a new sending unit, check the wiring connectors for the unit on yours.

I have had issues with those on a few EA81's

 

Really not a "water-proof" type connection, so corrosion is going to happen.

[all the spfi swap links are dead...]

Running an '92 SPFI ECU in my '88 SPFI Wagon.

[I Think I Have a Bent Push Rod...]

Yeah valve covers are off... that is how I can see the rod is bent. Darnit all... I shouldnt need to resurface the heads right? it was just done in October.

Okay awesome!  CrazyEights might also have a set so let me talk with him a little so you dont have to dig around a lot just to find out I got them from him. 

 

Not finding the push-rods. May have sold them already and don't 'member dong so. I be Old, so I can do that........

[XT6 2.7L Engine in a 1983 Brat ?!? Anybody ever do this?]

Yeah, the BRAT in that link was sold, drove for awhile, rust and accident took it out of the picture, got parted and scrapped.

 

Got an '82 here that I thought of following that build, but with my own ideas also.

Difficulties of swapping that engine in, led me away from that plan.

[Justy electrical help]

Don't know Justy's either.

 

Myself, I would check the entire run of the engine wiring harness to see if anything got pinched between things that got bolted on.

 

Then, I would unhook the main feed to the alt and check that wire for continuity to ground, also check the connection for it on the alt itself.

[1991 Extended Range loyale Wagon - additional fuel TANKS]

As stated. You need to find cause of your low mileage issue.

 

I have repeatedly hit 200 miles+ driven at the 1/2 tank mark, and usually drove between 340 & 360 miles a week before topping the tank back off.

Best run on a tank of go-juice was 445+ miles.

[Hot-Rodding a Brat in two stages - Suggestions?]

Replied to your other thread.

 

But yes it has been done by a few people on here in BRATs, and another in a FWD Hatch.

[XT6 2.7L Engine in a 1983 Brat ?!? Anybody ever do this?]

http://www.subarubrat.com/er27install.htm

 

Some info there.

 

Owner of that BRAT is still here on the Board. The BRAT however is gone.

[Brat internal bleeding]

Looks like the Anti-After-burn Valve, (AAV), judging by angle of that pic.

The part is mounted on the DS strut tower, large hose runs to back of intake to a metal tube, then a short section of hose to the EGR valve. All of which can be removed.

 

The AAV can cause issues itself. And the short section of hose at the EGR likes to crack causing one heck of a vacuum leak.

[Brat internal bleeding]

That tube you argued with is for the EGR feed. Routes some exhaust gases to the EGR valve, EGR valve then adds it to the intake stream.

Supposedly, it helps with exhaust emissions.

[I Think I Have a Bent Push Rod...]

No, you do not have to pull the heads. Do need to pull the valve covers off, but sounds like you've done that already.

 

Do need to loosen the lash-adjusters on the rockers. That will let you remove the push-rods.

 

Fairly certain I have a set of EA81 Solid Lifter push-rods. Give me until the weekend to check on that.

[Picture Request: Stock Height Loyale with 185/70-14 or 195/70-14]

Here's a couple pics of some 195/65-15 24.98" tires on same Wagon. These are 8" across tread, no rubbing anywhere.

 

Rear;

 

 

Front;

 

[Hot-Rodding a Brat in two stages - Suggestions?]

The ej22 fits just fine in the frame rails of an ea81 body. It's the dohc motors that have clearance problems.

Yep! And the ER27 XT6 6 cylinder engine will fit, just where the heck to put the radiator is an issue.

Non-turbo EJ is the way to go for ease of fitment, wiring is another story in itself, but doable.