pm128

sorry, its a 1985 gl-10 turbo.. yea I'm not a big fan of the 3at.. how hard is it for a 5sp conversion?

So my 3at, give up the ghost. What are my options, how much are used 3at's in the seattle area. Also where can you find them?.. I have an 85 gl-10 t thanks

So I have 85 gl10 and I am in the process or replacing my heater core, I got one form parts america but it is not the same as what is in the car. The one I got is much fatter and not as wide, it does not fit in slot where the old one is, also it has short connectors. The stock one had long copper connectors that go throught the fire wall. Does annyone know the part # ar a part # or where I can this correct heater core. The one that goes thought the firewall. Since my car is all ripped apart now. thanks P

(I never worked on an auto before) :-) .. wow I'm in a much better mood now.. so what is the procedure for reinstalling the tc, I slide it on the shaft turn clockwise till I hear 3 clicks right? P

Just a guess, what about the ignition tumbler (where the key goes).. just a thought..

I'm worried about the AT fluid leaking out.

To make a long story short, I was pulling my engine on my gl-10 3at and managed to create an at fluid leak through the input shaft. A lot of at fluid leaked out behind the tc and down the case. So how screwed am I?. I'm hopeing that it is just the seal behind the tc on the tranny side. Anyone have any experiance with this? I really need to get this fixed so if anyone knows what seal I screwed up, and where to get it in the Seattle area help would be appreciated. Thanks

Thanks that site is very usefull.

If I had more time and wanted to spend the cash I would def do a swap.. The at3 is not the greatest transmission in the world interms of economy.. he.. anway, I have always woked on manual cars, I'm gonna lift the engine, my plan was to unbolt the intake manifild, and just flip it back so all I have to worry about is the engine. Is there anything I should watch out for regarding the Tq converter?.. I dont think so but might as well ask, .. also is there any place to get stering rack bushings, and where is a good palce to rent engine lifts. around bellevue wa?.. P

I got an 85 gl10T 3at, Anyway right now the two seals on the tranny side of the half shafts are leaking front diff oil. Also I am leaking engine oil, from what looks like the rear main. i was planning on changing the seals on the half shafts as well as the rear main. Now I am wondering is it easier to get to the rear main by lifting the engine( I have no lift), or dropping the tranny(dont forget I already will have the half shafts out of the way). Also is there any items I should look out for? or replace while Im in there. Thanks P

Quick question, how hard is it to change the rear main seal. I do not have a lift and was thinking of just dropping the differential since I have to do the two seals on the driveshafts (thus I have to take them out anyway). How hard is it to do it this way, annyone done it? its an 85 gl10 T

So I have most of my timing cover off, water pump seal went bad, I was just gonna put some gasket maker on it and call it good. is there anything else I should change while I'm in there? Thanks

heh, my gasket on my water pump just went out, I say about 4 hour job for the first time and if youre not tired like I was.

I'm 6'5 and about 240#.. . iIn my gl-10 I could use a little more space for the knees, I drive with the wheel up all the way, and if the car did not have a sunroof I would be hurting...

The ea81 should have a weaker head gasket, since in the ea82 you dont have the ohv craziness going through them.. however its probly offest since the ea82's make more power thus more stress on the head gasket..

So wait, timing belts suck because they have to be replaced every 60-100k miles.. and ohv engines rule, so nothing goes wrong with them , rods dont bend, etc.... fixing those is not that fun. also with the ovc design you have so much more flexibility with the cams, you can change the phase of the cams on the fly, as bmw does, change the duration, change the overlap. You can have completely different cam profiles depending on engine rpm. Also developing a ohc engine is the first step into making a dohc engine.. which, im sure, according to some here sucks too. p.s. there is a reason why Fords 5.0 liter v8 make the same amount of hp as hondas 2l 4 cylinders.. and the v8 get worst gas milage, o and yea I knwo you can make the ford ohv engines have more power but look what it does to the gas milage, and notice how the car runs esp at idle.

that sucks... well at least I know there is nothing super wrong with my car.. I dont want an manual, already have a manual z, and I use the subie when I'm lazy or going skiing and ussuallly I' too grogy in the morning to want to shift. ..

What would cause bad gas milage? I got a 86 turbo(3at) and I only seem to get 19-20 mph hwy... it sucks.. andy ideas wht I should check.. I have new plugs, wires, dis cap, and an accel coil.. P

Stock for stock the sti is faster. However good luck finding a stock tt 300zx. The very basic upgrades on that car give about 300 rwhp, and 400-500rwhp is very duable on stock turbos and internals. There are some turbo upgrade kits coming out now for that car thet get about 800-900 flywheel hp. The numbers from above "super cars.net" are way off, the 96 300zx has less hp than the 90-95 (due to odbii emissions) it had 280hp, while the 90-95 had 300hp. The 300zx is a horrible drag car, the rear suspension is way overengineered antisquat setup so you get a lot of wheel spin on hard take offs. Stock these cars run about 13.8-14.2 sec quarters, the n/a's stock (222hp) run about 15-15.5 quarters and about 14.2-15.9 modified. Having said that they are great cars, awsome to take on wisty roads mt passes, etc. Finally getting mine back today form the shop after getting it stollen(grrr).

Alright, I've been slowly fixing a 86 gl10 turbo and now I am left with 2 problems which I can't seem to fix so some advice would be nice. First, on the digital dash. The temperature gauge behaves normally only if the blower fan for the heater is turned off (the off button is pressed). When the blower is on the temp gauge starts to climb, about 10-15 sec per division, till it gets to the red marks and stays there. The car is not overheating. If I turn the fan off the gauge slowly returns to normal (aprox 30 sec). Both the temperature sensors seem to work fine. Second problem is my heater. Basically selecting defrost blower works only if the car is idling or in Park. Once the engine is in drive and the rpm's go above 1800 or so the vent goes back to just flowing out of the "front vents" Also there is a hissing notice coming form the control unit of the heater (the box behind the, off, ac, heat, def buttons). This is most noticeable when the OFF position is selected. This hiss also goes away at 1800rpm or so (once again only in drive, you can rev it up in park and it works just fine) So I wanted to check if the vacuum hose is connected correctly in the engine compartment. So if anyone can tell me the routing of the hose starting at the white canister to the engine, it would be very appreciated. Sorry of the very long message, and any help is very appreciated. Thanks Peter