vrg3

Almost all oxygen sensors have M18x1.5 threads. So do 18mm spark plugs, actually. You can get 18mm "spark plug non-foulers" from the auto parts store that can be easily made into weld-on-able oxygen sensor bungs with a little cutting. They're basically little spark plug extension dealies: http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=RNB&mfrpartnumber=42009

News from Sanjay: Setright, your guess about the rad cap was correct. The gasket was badly worn; there was a groove right where the filler neck pressed against it. A new cap resolved the problem. Thanks to everyone for the help.

Even if those tests check out, you still might try subyluvr2212's suggestion. In my experience, the idle switch code is sometimes thrown when there's an inappropriate load on the TPS power supply, and that can be caused by something weird in the TPS.

Yeah, copper's a better conductor than platinum, but platinum lasts a lot longer. In my opinion, the extended service interval of platinum plugs is not really an advantage, since I think you should be removing your plugs more often than that just to check them and to make sure they don't fuse to the heads.

Yup. The heater control moves a flap that controls how much air bypasses the heater core.

Don't believe so. It's used just to gauge catalytic converter efficiency. You might need to start checking out the EGR system and stuff like that... But maybe first you should have the codes cleared just to make sure it's not actually already solved.

It may or may not clear the codes... I'm not sure. But I wouldn't think a fuel trim malfunction code could appear after only 10 miles. Maybe, though. D'oh. It could still be the ECU but I still doubt it... :|

Even if the problem's solved, it could take a few trips before the ECU turns the CEL off. Or did you have the CEL cleared after cleaning the MAF sensor and rewiring the oxygen sensor?

Excellent! That's a nice price for an OEM-replacement sensor. Certainly beats trying to connect to those weird stainless alloy wires on the stock sensor.

Draw-Tite hitch part number 36234 is specified for all 1990 to 1999 Legacies, both sedans and wagons. The wagon drawbar is different from the sedan one. It's pretty easy to install, and I'd presume easy to remove. It bolts right in after you drill one 1/2" hole in each frame rail. I towed a trailer that weighed probably around 1500 lbs on a 350-mile trip with my Legacy... My Legacy's got everything wrong with it for towing: it's a 5-speed (with a dying clutch no less), a sedan, and a turbo. I guess if it were FWD instead of AWD it would have been a little worse. I certainly felt like I was being hard on the car, but it took it like a champ. Based on that experience, I wouldn't be too worried about hauling a snowmobile trailer around with your wagon. Just drive carefully. Be very gentle on the clutch, make extra sure to leave enough room around you to maneuver in an emergency, stuff like that. And definitely practice without the sled first.

Are you pretty sure about that, coloradosubarules? I remember going to a u-pull-it and using their interchange lookup for a 91 Legacy power steering pump and being told I could go up to 1996.

Good luck!

This seems like a smart way to do it, Setright. Interestingly, on turbo models the fill point for the system is the highest point in the system -- a filler tank mounted to the intake manifold. It actually ends up filling the whole system through the water pump and through the passenger side cylinder head (through the turbo). The radiator gets filled through the engine. And when I fill my Legacy Turbo motor with coolant, unless I rush the job, I usually have very little burping to do.

Apparently the "Parts America" stores (AutoZone, Checkers, Kragen, Shuck's, etc) can special-order any Redline product. I'm sure their prices won't be as low as some of these other places, but you wouldn't have to pay for shipping so it might even out. I think Redline 75W90NS is the right stuff for both your transmission and your rear differential. Redline 75W90 is for a different type of differential.

Every time the computer turns on the Check Engine light, it also stores a trouble code in memory that explains why it turned the light on. You should try to get someone to read the code for you; it's a lot more effective than trying to guess at the cause (though the two guesses people in this thread have made are good ones). LIke WANTONSOUPGUY says, a lot of auto parts stores read codes for free as a courtesy. If it's not a big deal you might choose to leave it, but there are two reasons you probably should fix it: 1) In most states having that light on and/or having the trouble code stored will cause the car to fail an emissions inspection, and 2) If your engine develops a more serious fault you won't necessarily know about it.

Are you sure you did a good job with the oxygen sensor connector? The stock wires are made of some kind of alloy that's really hard to solder and/or crimp properly. I'm pretty experienced with electrical work and mechanical soldering, and I actually ended up just putting new wires in the connector instead of trying to solder to the stock oxygen sensor wires. You might want to just try cleaning out your MAF sensor. Remove it from the car (pull the snorkel off and then undo the 4 10mm-head bolts holding it to the airbox), and spray it gently and liberally with brake cleaner. Make sure as much of the brake cleaner (and the dirt and grease dissolved in it) as possible runs out, and make sure the remainder evaporates. It's very volatile so it shouldn't take long. Then see if anything improves. It'll only take a few minutes and a buck or two, and can't hurt. A steadily lean or steadily rich reading at the ECU, especially if it switched after an attempted repair, in my opinion, is very unlikely to be the ECU's fault.

Hm. Have you tried cleaning and/or swapping out the MAF sensor? That sensor -- or its wiring -- is usually responsible for a fuel trim trouble code. I would assume your mechanic checked the oxygen sensor's wiring when he changed the sensor. It could be the ECU's fault, but it likely isn't in my opinion. Can you find out from your mechanic what kind of behavior the fuel trims seem to show? What exactle does "going crazy" mean? Does the car idle okay? If not, maybe you have a vacuum leak. Other potential causes include (roughly in order of likelihood) are fuel injectors and fuel filter, the EGR system, canister purge, and the PCV valve.

I think the interference on that motor is valve-valve, so hopefully you won't need to touch the bottom end. It's worth noting that this EJ25 is of the early type, when it was really just a stretched-out EJ22. They improved the design a little over the years... the spark plugs are a lot easier to change on newer EJ25s. Subaru did once specify the exact tools you should use to change plugs on the early EJ25. They said to use a spark plug socket, a short extension, a U-joint extension, and a long extension. The length from the tip of the socket to the middle of the U-joint should be 100mm, and the length from the middle of the U-joint to the ratchet wrench should be 250mm. This supposedly works well after removing the air filter housing, battery, and washer fluid reservoir. I think raising the engine an inch or two with a jack under the oil pan might help too. But, anyway, yeah, I don't think the pistons can hit the valves on the engine you just bought.

I Think The Board Does That For You If You Type In All Caps. [Edit: Yup, it does.]

I'm guessing that the code your buddy pulled with his Snap-On scantool was for misfires in cylinder 2 -- that's the only code I can think of that could be interpreted as being about the plug wire. A worn-out plug wire often has tiny cracks in the insulator, even if the terminals at the ends look fine. When it gets hard for the spark to jump the gap in the plug (like when you get on the throttle), it instead jumps through the insulator. The air/fuel mixture doesn't burn right (if at all), and so raw fuel and air go out the tailpipe. That flashing CEL usually indicates severe misfire. When misfire gets this bad, it is usually associated with the raw air and fuel burning inside the catalytic converter. If left unchecked that will destroy a cat in short order. I know this is obvious, but: Replace the wires ASAFP. If you absolutely have to drive the car before you do so, use as little throttle as possible. If you can still change your order, I highly recommend Magnecor spark plug wires. If you do things right you'll never ever ever have to replace them.

Yeah, in this case you do need one from a 95 Legacy. If it helps, you can use one from either an automatic or a manual... Why are you being told you need a new ECU? They don't go bad often.

silverlegacy, you should periodically put that fuse back in and run the A/C for at least a few minutes in the winter. It's bad for the compressor to go unused for too long; some seals can dry up and other bad stuff. That's one of the reasons OEMs like to make it automatically come on with the defroster (along with the fact that it helps defog).

Yeah, I also think cutting and then replacing them is a good idea. Just drop by your local auto parts supply and get some 5/16" fuel injection hose. Make sure it's fuel injection hose and not plain old fuel line, unless you relish a carbeque. Also make sure you use fuel injection clamps, not regular hose clamps. Fuel injection clamps have steel liners so they don't bite into the hose. If the stock clamps are in good shape then they're fine to reuse. If you do want to preserve the hose you have for whatever reason, I suggest getting a pair of hose clamping pliers. They're plastic and have rounded jaws so they're easy on hoses. I have found them helpful when trying to remove fuel injection hose.

I can't help with the CarFax, but the chips could be from a bad hailstorm or something maybe...

You've got mail, Aksor.