Legacy777

I'd suggest taking it somewhere. It probably needs to be charged up, and if you don't have the background, gauges, etc. You're better off taking it somewhere to have it looked at. Most places will do a diagnostic for 20 bucks or something like that. Even if you don't want them to do the work, however some may put that 20 bucks towards the work if you decide to have it done by them. Ask around for some good local a/c shops.

check to see if there are any codes, (you can get the procedure from my site) If there are any, make note of them. Reset the ECU. Pull fuse 16 for 10 minutes. Drive around and see if that changes anything. You may want to check codes again in a few days to see if anything is there. If you still are having problems. I'd suggest pulling the plugs and looking at them. other possibility is there is an excessive amount of carbon built up in the combustion chambers which is causing pre-ignition and the pinging. in which case you should have the engine cleaned using one of those motor-vac things.

You can do it......there are some issues you may run into. There is a thread in the body & chassis forum on the legacycentral bbs where someone has done this, and may be of more help. http://www.bbs.legacycentral.org

I think you were referring to the idle air control valve. It has a great deal to do with how the engine runs when warmed up. The valve has two parts, and electro-mechanical portion that is controled by the computer to allow a certain amount of air in the engine, and a temp controlled portion that uses a bi-metallic metal to close a secondary valve when temp gets above a certain point. It might be the TPS, but you may want to replace the coolant temp sensor. it's like 20 bucks from liberty subaru http://www.newsubaru.com

Alignments will start to loose their accuracy over time, due to normal wear and tear, bumps, and other stuff. Do tires, then alignment, but do them back to back, or relatively close. If you have an alignment that is off, and chewed down one side of your tire, and they do an alignment, the tire may not be sitting flush, they get a bad reading, and set the alignment specs to it, and when you get new tires, that bad setting will prematurely wear the tires. How much extra wear or movement will happen by the worn tire......probably not alot, but it doesn't take a lot for the wear to happen.

it might be a little late, but I've updated all the links on my server and do have FSM scans, which include the timing belt procedure. I'll let you paruse. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans

go get a generic transmission/hydraulic line hose with the same inner diameter, cut it to length, and put the clamps back on.

Well I don't see why we couldn't make that a section in the repair manual and just link to his site. Or we could email him and ask if we can put the text in there, and give him credit for it, and link to the page at the bottom. Or write-up a similar article and put it up. I think brian is handling the USRM, I'd contact this email usrm@subaru4wd.net Let him know you're interested in having that lock info on there.

depending on what you want, ie headers, cat back, whole new exhaust. You can put the EJ25 borla headers on the dual exhaust port EJ22. You will need a custom header back to fit it though. I'd just recommend finding a good exhaust shop, and if you want a new exhaust, get an EJ25 header, generic high flow cat, whatever muffler you want, and have them weld you up a new exhaust.

the s-afc yeah.......something to that extent....

your 94 has a dual exhaust port design. The 95 uses a single port design.

all the fwd fuse does is disable the circuit on the duty c solenoid, which takes away line pressure to the rear clutch pack. It is irrelavent when the engine is not running. However when the rear wheels are towed on the ground, the rear clutch packs still turn, and without lubrication by the pump in the auto tranny, you can mess them up.

for a turbo mutant, you're probably better off using a n/a computer and adding the controls you want on. boost, a/f, and timing. You will need some additional control besides what the stock n/a ecu is capable. It is probably easier and cheaper to add on control then to add a turbo legacy ecu, and be required to run the turbo maf, injectors, etc. Plus you would have issues unless you hooked up all the rest of the sensors to the turbo legacy ecu, and then you get fuel cut and boost limiting on the stock ecu......

yes it measures the air coming in. You will need some form of boost control as well as a/f control, and really should have timing control as well, but for low boost you can probably get away without it.

the damage should be localized to the rear clutch pack in the automatic transmission. I would file a claim against the towing company, and make sure they fix your car.

a properly done turbo kit will work for low boost without changing engine internals. Key words, properly done, and low boost http://www.forcedairtech.com http://www.pdmturbos.com

OBD1 will be fine.....but it will depend on the type of ecu you use, n/a, turbo, etc. You may or may not get the control over tweaking things that you want......I'm not really sure how much tweakability you want, and what ECU format/platform you're starting with.

well first thing I would do is go to autozone or some place like that to get the code pulled. There's no sense in trying to guess what the problem is. The CEL is on, so there's a code stored. The cam sensor is on the opposite side of the engine that the coolant temp sensor is.....so it's probably not that.... check the codes and we can go from there in trying to troubleshoot.

Yup, they have the child locks.

have you tried to pull the fuse for the height control.

I highly suggest you read your owner's manual if you have it. It's a wealth of information for your car.

http://www.geocities.com/hobiegary/locks.html

subaru brakes are easy to change. If you have any mechanicing ability, you can do the brakes. I don't think you'll have to worry about the caliper needing to be screwed in. I haven't run across that on the newer subarus. re changing the pads & rotors, if the rotors aren't giving you shudder or don't have huge grooves, they're probably fine. You may want to sand them down to remove any old pad material.

haven't heard of any problems with the legacy's wiring......I haven't had any probs....

you lookin to do this for off road stuff? If you can do it with the old gen stuff.....you can probably do it with the legacy stuff.