richieroo

Ross, I didn't see anything like a knock out hole or boss so i am assuming that I have a solid lifter engine. So the knocking coudl be either a connecting rod or a pushrod? Or something entirely different? Rich

Okay, let me look tonight at 6:00 pacific time. I think we are 20 hours apart. Rich

Ross, Look on the engine or the head? This is not a turbo engine, it is a Carb. Rich

This is not the original engine. I bought this form an outfit in TX a used Jap engine. Looks older thatn 85, guessing though..... It got better after the valve adust, but I am leary of driving it now. Obviously I cannot hear it at higher speeds, but it is there at idle and up to about 1500-2000 rpms, (guessing without a tachometer). Rich

The Hatchback is in running condition, just got smogged, and has lots of power.....But there is still this k-k-k-Knocking noise. I have adjusted all the valves, TWICE! COLD (as told to do by you guys and others as well) and there just seems to be a clunking or knocking sound. I am hoping it is not a rod either connecting rod or pushrod. But on that item could a valve adjustment be right and the pushrod be bent and that is where the nosie is? Could it be that I have a zero clearance adjustment and not know it...how do I know if there are hydraulic lifters in this with the obvious stickers on the side of the valve covers (came without them)? (EA81) What do ya'll think? Rich :-\

Can you send me a pic? Where would it go in the car? Thnx Rich

Any part number or description that you could tell me? How big about? Part number? Etc? Thanks Rich

Miles knows what he is talking about ..........or you can actually look in the service manual.

Adjusted the valves last night and drove it around. Exhaust valve #3 was opened up too big. The adjustment seemed to quiet the car down (but still in my mind there is a clickety clack sound at around 2500 rpm or so, just guessing rpm as I have no tach.) As far as the start of this thread stating cracked block, that is wrong, I have found the leak just under the intake manifold from a little hose going into the engine. When it leaks it spread over the whole of the engine and actually creates puddles in various lower spots of the motor,..... so that was hard to trace, but I know now that hose is the culprit. Thanks again guys! Rich:D

Unfortunately I do not have the orig. I bought a used jap engine from an outfit in TX. Is there a way to look up the engine number and see? I know it has pushrods and I think the other way to tell is to look down where they come out..... Rich

Bump for the valve question. "how do I know which kind of engine I have?" Rich

I pulled one form a 84 wagon and tried to install it in an 87 Hatch and it would only work on hi/lo not int. ANyone know how I can change this to work? My Hatch is So Basic, I don't think there any add ons I can use on it. I still am looking for a Tach, anyone gots....... Rich

Drop the Y pipe remove the covers, just did it saturday. I cheat a lot and couldn't on that! Rich

Miles Wow! didn't realize about those two on the heads. Fortunately the leak is not in those areas. I thought it was either the heater hoses or the thermostat, something in the back which keeps dribbling down to the crossmember, BUT will still look, thanks for the advice, BTW how do I know if this is a solid or hydraulic lifter engine? I swapped valve covers a ways back and didn't notice any silver tags or such like that. I pulled the pushrods from another engine and they are all aluminum with steel tips. Know anything about that? Rich

Miles, What drain plug on the head would you be talking about? Not sure what you mean.,.... Rich

Yeh I had it running hot last night in the driveway and didn't get anything wrong, drove over to a friends house and he was home and when I pulled rom his driveway I saw the coolant, took it abak home and saw more coolant, let it runand wiped up the crossmember and drove it around somemore and then pulle to the other side of tthe driveway and no coolant at all! Really wierd. I am just trying to consider if the block is CRACKED and it is leaking from that area. I did notice coolant up higher on the engine below the thermostat , but the thermo wasn't leaking at all and I am wondering if that is an area of cracking concrn or not. Seems I have the time to write aobut this at work, but by the time I get off work and get home it is getting dark and cannot dig into as much! Oh well! Rich

Hi All, I put the engine (EA81) in a week and a half ago, ...It seems to be running fine except for a slight knock over by the #1 and 3 cylinders,...It passed smog last Sat. NOW there is coolant on the ground and I cannot CANNOT find any hoses that are leaking. I think ONLY THINK, there may be a crack, but would that emit steam or if it was a hairline crack what would it do? I hope it isn't and am going to try to look more tonight. Like I said it runs fine but sometimes this small pudle shows up and the coolant comes down form the crossmember that holds the ngine in place. Very perturbed about this, :-\ want to get this on the road! how do I know if this is a solid or hydraulic lifter engine? I swapped valve covers a ways back and didn't notice any silver tags or such like that. I pulled the pushrods from another engine and they are all aluminum with steel tips. Know anything about that? Rich

Not ging to use a center bearing at all. I have to see about how short or long a spacer would be from the driveline back to the diff face. If it is too long then I agree with welding it. It might be unbalanced of the u joint is farther away for the way it was meant, but about 2 inches should be fine. Above that, I think a harmonic hummwould happen myself. SO even though I know the spacer can be done am just a leary of getting that humm as well. Rich

Hi all! In most of these issues about putting in a 5 speed the driveline is always approached that it has to be welded longer and then balanced. I agree wioth that, but I have another idea. Instead of welding why not extend the drivline by the amount needed with a spacer? Wouldn't that be acceptable? As a machinist I can make a spacer that will add the length at the end of the u-joint. Today I found a driveline out of a 84 wagon at a JY and I think it may be so close that the spacer will be very short. Any comments?:-\ Rich

Well I took the Hatch to another Smog place, one I have used for years and it flew by with flying colors! WOW! So why did one place call the emission off the chart and the other give me these results? :-\ Very strange. BUT the old Hatch will be on the road beofre too long now! Now to get the 5 speed in and running! Rich

Yeh I will try to find someone with Subie experience, too bad one of you guys aren't down my way! NUTS! The company is going to try to work with me, but they are not gonna help me too much, they being in Texas and me in California.

I went down to have my Hatch smogged today and it pretty much went off the scale in co2. My question is if this car neds to be adjusted in the mixture, then how can I do it? Just guess and keep going back to MR MECHANIC? I cannotafford that. Or do I just suck it up and let him fix it to the tune of ....$$$. What would your advice(s) be to me? This is a 87 Hatch probably DL becasue it has round headlights. MR MECHANIC just sighed when he saw the carb, he said he was so used to working on Fuel Injected cars, WELL EXCUSE ME! I just high tailed it out of there very frusterated! AAANNNDD......The car is running rough with a knock in the engine as well on the 1-3 cylinder side. Be careful about buying a used Jap engine! Take it from me! What can I do, I can't just use this for a paperweight, I hope! Rich

Send a pic so we can see what you are talking about. You sent one of the car already once,..... Get a close up.

Yeh that is a hard situatuion as well. Well ya gotta go with your instincts! Best of luck to you. Rich

I would fix it and just be the nice guy in this situation. You don't know me, but how many times has a person just really needed help and I think to do the honest and correct thing would be to help her out and be the good neighbor! Just my 2 cents! Rich