hatchsub

Better question..why the hell does junior want the auto...eewww. If he doesnt know how to drive stick..tell him he better learn

i wrote a writeup in the USRM. Its for converting from 3 speed auto to 5 speed manual 2wd but most aspects of it should pertain to you as well..minus the driveshafts.

that front cat should have a heat shield wrapped around it. If it doesnt you might want to make something or delete the cat

yay i love it when that happens :banana:

The spline count on the output shafts is different. I believe (dont quote me on this as someone else will chim in to correct me if im wrong) that the turbo 5 speed D/R have 25 splines while NA 5 speed D/R have 23. I think i got that right. It might be backwards though so someone else please chim in if i right or wrong.

So if someone wanted some more power from there NA EA82 they could do a head swap to dual port heads and a MPFI setup? Reliable because your not running a turbo.

What i dont understand is why go to the trouble of JB welding that hole closed? Why not just disconnect the coolant hose going to the hole and call it a day?

No problem.. i need to do this on my camaro at some point. The hatch leaks at this gasket now Only thing is new gasket costs 80 bucks

Shouldnt be too bad. Just pull the old one out and put the new one in the same way. Make sure to put the separation (eg. where the two ends meet) at the bottom right above the license plate otherwise you will have leaks.

bumpity

Hmmm when you say jumping tach do you mean the idle of the car changes around or just the tach? Cause my tach does bounce around at idle...but thats following the idle. It was doing it a little before and now its worse. Also it wants to die when making a 90 degree turn.

Thats the only way to make it work in these old cars. I had to do the same in my sedan.

Ok thanks Frank..Ill give that a try when i get a chance. I just went and parked my car for the week..and there is no way im getting out of the spot im in as i barely got it in..lol. The vacuum solenoids your talking about are called the Duty solenoids. My car was originally a Carter-weber one barrel but i didnt want that carb i wanted the hitachi. Unfortunatly the wiring didnt exactly line up and deleted the duty solenoids. that was about a year ago though and the car has run mint up until a few days ago

Ok well im getting the radiator from Russ so thats taken care of. Anyone else have any opinions/advice. How do i go about checking if the distributor is the culprit and not my carb? I just assume carb because of the above issues and the fact that i can turn the idle up a good amount and it still idles lower than it should for that setting.

Sorry forgot to post everything else i checked. I sprayed some carb cleaner around the intake gaskets and it had no effect so my intake gaskets are good. No oil in the coolant and no coolant in the oil so no headgasket failure. It never runs hot either. I checked under the cap and everything looked good and clean to me so no moisture as far as i could tell. where are the vacuum solenoids that your refering too? Are they under the cap?

yea ive replaced radiators before on these cars..it should take me about 15-20 minutes.

Hey Everyone. Im a poor college kid and i think ive got a big expense coming to me. I drove home this weekend from college and on the way every time i came to a stop sign my car would idle really low and then die. When i got home i turned the idle up a ton to keep it running at idle but it would idle rough still. Then i went around the engine looking for vacuum leaks and low and behold i think i found the culprit. I sprayed some carb cleaner on the throttle shaft of the carb and my idle picked up a tad. I also shot some down the carb and my idle picked up and smoothed out then too. In the past the car would want to stall out if i shot some down the carb. Im figuring my carb is leaking major vacuum at the throttle shaft and maybe somewhere else....so since im sick of rebuilt carbs not working and have wanted a weber for a long time anyways i think its time to get one. What do you all think? Second is my radiator. Recently i replaced the lower radiator hose cause it looked really old and crusty, but if i wiggle the part of the radiator that fits into that hose it moves around pretty freely and dripps coolant on the ground. Im thinking i have a rusty radiator that needs replacing as well. After i noticed the drip i moved my hand across the radiator to feel for cold spots and the whole center section of the radiator (the part where the air can pass through) was cool to the touch and the side parts were hot. Clogged up radiator? Sorry to write a novel but this is whats going on with my car right now. So i guess my questions are...do i need to get a weber (im not going to waste my time with a hitachi again) and do i need a new radiator? If so where can i get a radiator cheap? Thanks for the great help guys.

I love the wheels. Ill put myself second in line if you ever want to sell those enkeis

Yea thats not just in your area..its over here too. You got it about right.

I thought his rims/ tire combo looked killer. Thats just MHO.

Rice, Ricer, Rice burner are all terms to describe modded for looks Japanese cars. The Japanese eat alot of rice..hence the nickname. Its not exactly politically correct though.

Yes block it off with epoxy or JB weld as lots on here have done and disconnect that coolant hose going to it. Sand smooth put on the gaskets and adapter and bolt down the carb.

Your going to need to yank the intake as you need to clean the matting surface and its a bit hard if its just hanging in the car. Not that much extra work to take it out of the car anyways.

Wow this one got revived from the dead. Oh well ill put my 2 cents in. My favorite would have to be an EA81 RX. Dual carb EA81 with 105 horses sounds awesome. Too bad they never sold them in the states .

It all depends on how the car is driven. If someone drove it hard then it would not last as long as someone who drove it well. Ive heard of stock clutches lasting as long as 200,000 on volvos (my uncles) and ive also heard of clutches going out every 20,000 or so miles from a bad driver. I believe if you treat a clutch well it should be good for 100,000 miles.