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I used to rev my loyale to 7500 rpm's (damned civic's) and never had a problem with the bottom end in it....Keeping in mind...VERY TEMPERMENTAL when it comes to oil. If you have the lifters ticking, that usually means the oil pump is sucking air from somewhere. The only engine I have heard of throwing a rod was on one of our ice racers....it ran out of oil...

Synthetic oil will make it run cooler if anything....more friction modifiers. the thicker the oil, the better it lubricates. Here's a tip.... 10W30...is like SAE 10 oil when cold and SAE 30 when hot. thusly, the higher you go....10w40, 20w50 the thicker the oil gets respectivly. Synthetic oild resist heat and have more friction modifiers in it to allow LESS engine running friction, thusly less hot. ALSO synthetic oils come in rediculous mixes like 5w50 and 10w60. Unless your making 300 hp in a 1.8 L N/A, I highly doubt synthetic is needed. I don't even run synthetic in my car....I find (and heard) closer to a straight grade oil is better for turbo's (eg 10w30, 10w40, 20w50 or just SAE 40). I ran synthetic a few times, but found that the kendall 10w40 makes more oil pressure than the 5w50. To each's own. Oil is oil..as long as the engine is getting some, all is good. OH YA btw....subarus don't need a whole lot of oil pressure to run properly. I sometimes see only 30 psi at 3000 rpm.... Subaru recommends no lower than 10 psi at 2000 rpm.... (for the ea82's anyways)

hummm...twin turbo twin throttle body??? lol I was just thinkin, with the spyer intake injector housing's it'd be a sinche to make up new plenums and twin throttle body's. Just getting them sync'd is the fun part....But of course only one PROPER tps needed.... Humm gears are turning....lol

ok this is rediculous! a new guy joins the board, probably doesn't know much about cars, (if he knew anything he would know that this convo would have turned into such a debate) and all he asked is why subaru's sound the way they do. HERE IS THE ASNWER! it's all in the exhaust header! AND NOTHING BUT THE HEADER! It is very uneven in legnth between the cylinders. EVEN THEN the older EA81 and 82 engines have siamese ports, meaning each cylinder exhaust port joins to one bigger one right in the head....hence only 2 pipes comming out. If you want your ru to sound like a honda, you first have to seperate the 2 ports in the head, then run EXACTLY EQUAL legnth pipes to a 4 into 1 collector....then you'll have your honda. The sound of the engine comes from where?? the exhaust. It all boils down to where the sound pulses meet. If one pulse joins on top of another pulse, you get a loud pulse. It's like cars on a highway.....4 cars leave all driving the same speed each car leaves 180 seconds (degrees) after the other....but all have different distances to go....one car will probably run into the other when the highways join, and the other 2 will probably be WAY BACK somewhere close together...you make all those highways equal legnth....all the cars get in line...the same distance (time) apart. V- engines are a different story and I am not going to get into that. Basically HO's and Inlines are the same engine, same crank (generally) and CAN SOUND THE SAME. But don't cause subaru uses uneven headers and honda's are closer to equal. ANd just cause it's a performance exhaust header doesn;t necessairly mean it's equal legnth....

The dimples around the seal are to help hold the seals in. More than likely the seals popped out of the housing (like they so often do) and the displaced material by the dimples sort of crimp the seal and persuade it to stay where it belongs.

ya I agree, go 2" exhaust. But if all your worried about is the loud glass pack, change that. I went with a 2.5" inlet and outlet turbo muffler on my N/A loyale and it sounded good....not loud, just a deep sound too it. Not too annoying. As for the tinging...it's a double wall exhaust (stock ones anyways) and when the pipe cools, the difference in contraction between the 2 walls, and the heat sheilds makes that noise. No problems though....that sound is normal. If you don't like it, single wall pipes tend to not make that noise. Then again, usually single wall pipes (aftermarket stuff) doesn't come with all the fancy mud and dirt catchers (heat sheilds) the stock pipes come with.

holly crap?!? you torque it that much? I don't think tighter is always better...maybe for coppers or something, but on stock gaskets? I think subaru recommends 47 ft.lbs on stock gaskets....I dunno I am just a stupid kid, I don't know nothing Never mind....I though you were talking about subaru.....

when I did my swap to 5mt 4wd the pedal box was an easy install....after you remove the dash and steering column....I am not sure if it was done in his case. Subrat why didn't ya go 4wd??? It's really easy to install all the stuff needed for the rear drive line....or was there no tranny available?

ya no thanx....megasquirt 2 is lookin better and better every day....

cessna's are cool! and I though you were doing the head liner in that all-crap?!? what are you doing here yappin to me?? LOL (jokes)

common now....twin side outlets are better! lol

THis is true...don't get yer pee all hot now...

You guys ever look into new chips for the computers? Did you know that the computer has a socket already soldered into it for a chip trans-plant? I am wondering, since the subaru boys used to run rally with these cars I wonder if there are a few re-mapped chips out there somewhere... They built the computer for a new chip....I'd expect to be laughed at calling subaru about such a proposition, but ya never know. Any Ideas? I wonder if STI even existed "back in the day" LoL Hummm GL-10 STI....has a ring to it... Or for you RX boys Rx-STI I especially like Loyale RX-T...may she rest in piece... *sulk*

Is that so? well I guess my supplier of info was a little off. That being said, here is another question....Any ideas on how reliable nuts compared to actual bolts holding down heads are. Meaning a bolt has what...2 or 3 inches of thread to bite on, where as you have about 1/2" of thread on a nut...I'd assume that the 20 or 30 threads on the end of the bolt would hold a little better, even in aluminum, than the 6-8 threads in a nut...Any Ideas??

ya I noticed that too....being an RX awd tranny in that? Should have the good ratios in that one. I had an RX tranny in my GL-10, ended up chewing 2nd to pieces....ya....waiting to get the bucks for a gear set...I really liked that tranny

UGH! it's all in exhaust....Only V- type engines make the funny noises. Inlines and H- engines have the EXACT same rotation between firing, thusly a horisontally opposed and an inline engine will sound the same with the exact same exhaust and engine building spec's. LOL and yes....an XT-6 is the same engine as an EA82....just 2 more cylinders welded on....lol one more way to carry on a blunder eh? lol

About the head gaskets I know about the coppers and the problems with torquing. I was going to go with head studs, till I found out that the 11mm thread size is common to these types of engines only (ea82) and it'd probably be about 700 bucks to get some specially made. SOOO I have the wicked idea to drill and tap to 12mm and get studs for that. Probably a little easier to come by, and the fact that the bolt holes go pretty deep into the block will probably be ok. Seeing as once they are in they won't be comming back out, so I am not too worried about Crappy thread cutting, keeping in mind I am not going to rush the cutting of new threads. As for the rev-ing thing, ya there is some restriction in the intake. With the new WRX intercooler I have no problems getting them valves to float....it's actually a neat sound....lol I bet people cringe when they hear it, just waiting to see the valves come out the tail pipe. I am running 92 loyale NA cams. They are pretty agressive, but one certain car came with the next better cam for rev-ing. I can't remember which car... *ahem* I used to be able to rev the N/A loyale up to 7500 no problems, where the valves started to float....and to be quite frank, have never ran into bottom end problems YET cause of it.The loyale SPFI engine was retired when I converted the car to turbo. The Gl-10 doesn't rev much past 6750 besacuse the engine has like 350,000 km's on it and I am willing to bet the valve springs are pretty weak. New block commin my way! Needing SOMETHING for head gaskets so I can get this thing back together! Definately not going back to stocker head gaskets....I am getting sick of changing those....mind you people tell me nice new flat surface and stock gaskets SHOULD be ok, but I am not going to risk it.

Well I have a 1988 GL-10 Turbo. I have swapped out the stock GL-10 computer to an 88 RX computer. There was no noticable change. As for intake, I ran the stock intake for a while on my car, then removed the stock Cast Eblow that goes into the throttle body and installed and intercooler off of an MX-6. I actually seen a loss in power in doing that. Next I removed the stock air box and fitted a cone filter right on to the mass air filter (not forgetting the straw mod for the air meter) got all the power back and then some. I next changed the intercooler to a slightly more "free flowing" one along with Much better pipeing (WRX intercooler). Made more of a difference on the plus side. If I'd have to guess, the intercooler alone probably added 10 hp worth of air flow. Next came a new TD04 Turbo....that in it's self added probably another 15 at least. What I am trying to say is...you can't modd something all at the same time and be sure that all the crap you did is actually helping. Not trying to sound crass or anything but the ONLY real way you can tell if a modd is actually helping is to do one at a time and dyno the car. Eg...that MX-6 intercooler was crap!!! the piping was Crap and I didn't really notice till I seen how a STOCK turbo car rev'ed to red soo much easier....I was restricting the flow too much. So cause your car is modded all to hell, doesn't mean it's actually making power. You also have to take into account the amout of pipe between the turbo and intake on a stock car, compared to lets say something modded. The MX-6 intercooler had about 4 feet (guessing) of pipe, from turbo to intake....and now the WRX one was about 2 feet of piping...bit bigger in diameter, and a little better on the bends. Where compare that on how easy it is for a turbo to blow the air through that little cast piece 6" into the intake. Also, I am not 100% sure about this, but I think anything 88 and newer is Density controlled turbo....meaning it will turn up boost under hotter conditions (thusly hotter boost air) in an effort to keep power up. I have seen my bone stock gl-10 climb past 13 psi when you load it up in 5th on the highway and hold it there. As soon as I installed an intercooler....never moved past 7....I bet if you put a 4psi wastegate actuator on, it'll run 4psi in the cold weather....then the boost controller will bring it up when it gets warmer outside. Honestly, I don't think an intercooler helps power all that much when your running close to stock boost. The turbo just isn't blowing the air hot enough to make that much of a difference. I think under long term boost,the intercooler helps, but straight out of the hole, probably not much of a difference. Also, keep in mind, 40 hp gain is a little better than 30% more power....that's a pretty good jump for a 2500 pound car. I was running 7 psi,on the stock boost controller, just recently went to 12 and it moves good.I am shooting for 20, but running into head gasket issues. anyone know where to find bi-metals? How is your car set-up? send me a pic if ya like....I'll try and get a shot of my under hood....maybe something will trigger an inspiration! lol

ya know....those optical distributors the 88+ cars have, are common with a nissan stanza I think it is....well nissan something anyways! and they always pack in on the nissan's, have never seen a subie distributor pack in yet...I had my loyale up to 475,000kms with the original disty on it....No clue why but the nissan ones always pack in. Maybe, IF THERE IS NO SPARK OR FUEL INJECTOR action, the led's packed in in the distributor. I have only ever had one apart....and oddly enough it was perfectly clean and dry inside...sealed well. The nissan's tend to spin the trigger plate on the shaft...ya it actually rips the plate past the dowel. Check your computer. Just turn the key on and there is a lamp on the computer under the drivers side dash....you might have to pull a little bit of paneling off, but it's right up on the steering shaft, and the led indicator light is facing you when you look at the computer, just a little hole. Just turn the key on and it'll flash codes in U-Check mode. You don't have to plug anything in or play with any wires. If it's computer related to why it's not starting, it'll flash the codes for it. Next week, CLEARING those codes! AWWhh my god what a mess they got ya doing for that! lol

alright...here is my experiences...i've been around these ea82's for 5 years now and here is what I'd check. Err Drivers Side.... side timing belt...ALWAYS GOES!! check that belt first. Easiest way is to pull the distributor cap off, have someone crank the engine and see if it spins. THAT being said IF IT DOES SPIN that doen't mean the belt is good. I have had the Teeth rip off the belt and it still spin the cam,just out of time...so pull that timing belt cover off and see if there are still teeth on it,have someone crank it while you watch the belt go around. Is the timing belt tight? maybe it was too loose and jumped a few teeth...Or debris got in there and made it jump a few teeth? I haven't seen it happen on a subaru yet, but I have seen it happen on a Mazda 323 GTX. Next, since you have the distributor cap off, grab the rotor and try and turn it on the shaft. if it turns, look for the screw in the distributor and re-install it. It goes under the flat porton of the rotor,opposite the sparking end into the shaft....through the rotor of course....it's a little difficult and the engine might have to be bumped to get the rotor shaft in the right spot. Of course there is no alignment pins, knubbs or slots on the shaft to keep the rotor properly aligned, so you'll have to pull the rotor off, IF IT SPINS FREELY OF COURSE, and see where the hole for the screw is. IF THE ROTOR IS fastened correctly, check spark...and all related systems, fuses, fuse links etc. I have yet to see a coil pack in, along with a fuel pump but I am sure it happenes. Check fuel supply.....pull the boot off of the throttle body, have someone crank and it should squirt fuel, visibly, out of the injecor, not to mention those SPFI injectors click pretty loud. if it clicks but no spray, then fuel is not getting there. If nothing at all, try and Unplug the Mass Airflow Meter and do the same test again, I am not sure if the computer needs to sense airflow to inject durning starting, but unplugging the mass airflow meter will cause the computer to run off of a pre-programmed map, so it SHOULD inject forsure. Come to think of it, if ya wanted to nail 2 birds with one stone, pull the distributor OFF the cam tower, with cap installed, wires attached pull a plug, take the intake boot off, and spin the gear end of the distributor by hand, check for spark and injector functioning at the same time. (key needs to be in the ON position for this) Keep clear of EVERYTHING that spins on the engine....it JUST MIGHT TRY AND KICK if any of the plugs are left in the engine and hooked to the plug wires.If you have no Idea how to re-install the distributor properly and time it, I'd advise agaist it....unless you want to learn. But you better get a manual if you've never done it before. Ok to re-cap,check timing belt on drivers side....it always goes! check fuel and spark. If all of that is ok....unplug the mass airflow meter and try cranking. Like I said I can't remember if it needs a mass airflow reading for starting injection or not, but it's worth a try. As for that, I have no more ideas. The only time mine has ever just quit was when the timing belt gave out. Well check that stuff out...let us know....we'll figure it out. Ya I meant drivers side!

It' true it's all in the exhaust set-up. Given that this engine has siamese ports, you'd have to divide them some how to get a "true" equal legnth. Listen to a WRX with equal legnth....sounds just like a civic....of course it's a little deeper, cause it's a big bore and short stroke, but it does have the weed wacker sound to it. And normally subaru exhausts are rather large for the engine size ie 1.8 N/A subaru ea82 engine has what? 1 7/8 exhaust? civic is what? 1 3/8?? the smaller the exhaust is the more raspy it'll sound. Then it all comes down to valve timing, lift and other raz-ma-taz...but for the destinctive subaru "chug" that is all in the exhaust my friends....

here is a good trick to check for a head gasket leak....Let the car sit over night, and before you start it the next day, pull the rad cap off....if the coolant is up to the top, all is ok. If it's down then more than likely the head gasket is shot. (keeping in mind, cracks in the exhaust port like the EA82's are so common for may cause this same problem). If the coolant is down, remove all spark plugs and apply shop air to the clylinders (one at a time of course) and turn the engine over on to the compression (against the shop air pressure in the cyl) make sure the rad is full before you start of course.....if bubbles come out, the head gasket is shot. Do this for all cyl's. If no bubbles, no bad head gasket... Just thought I'd throw in my 2 cents. BTW if anyone knows where I could get my fingers on Bi-metal head gaskets for my EA82 turbo, I'd be glad to hear it. Or if some of you guys are interested let me know. I am looking to go with copper, since they are available, but I'd rather bi-metals. agerlach@hotmail.com

Just a though here boys but it seems like your on the right track with the AB valve. Try installing a dashpot. The EA82 turbos come with them to pretty much hold the throttle open for a split second when you hop off of the gas....thus letting air in to burn the extreme rich condition on deceleration. I have seen my spfi backfire pretty good with a stock exhaust on it. but that is really pushing it. I'd have to say that SPFI's and Carbs would be the worst becsuse of the HUGE intake distance between the injection point and the engine. That's alot of room for the fuel to fill up. On the MPFI's the fuel is injected right onto the valve, therefore less fuel sitting in the intake. On the EA82T's I think the dashpot is basically for turbo overboost due to quick throttle snapping. I have an 88 GL-10 and the dashpot has been taken out. I have a BOV on so I feel I don't need a dashpot. That being said, it doesn't backfire. It could be the turbo in the exhaust or whatever, I don't know. All I can say is under full boost, when I hop off the gas, the Wide band o2 jumps to about 10:1 mixture, then down to nothing, and no back fire. Meh. If your looking for a cheap fix, see if ya can make a dashpot fit. It might just do it.

actually the subaru heads are known to crack. Basically they crack between the intake and exhaust valve seats. That type of crack is ok. The problem is it works it's way into the exhaust port where there is a nice juicy coolant passage. If that crack is big enough, coolant will leak into the exhaust port, and not into the engine. I have had cases where the coolant would actually leak pretty good. Best way to tell is pull the exhaust off the heads and have a look. I haven't seen them crack soo badly as to smoke like a blown head gasket, but I have seen them fill exhaust pipes in a matter of a month of sitting. Is it turbo or non. More likely to be the case in a turbo model, but the non turbo's have the same problem. I have seen head cracking and a coolant leak into the port on heads with 260,000 kms on them. Mind you that is pretty rough driving too.