trooperjeep

Dittios... my 92 Loyale, 4WD has the same tranny. The bad news is it revs like hell (about 4200 RPMS @ 65MPH) and only gets about 16MPG. The good news is it can survive lots of neglect and aduse, especially the attempts of "the ex" trying to break it. But, it still runs great! T.J.

As I mentioned in another thread, I just removed the belt-driven fan as it's clutch is bad the fan never stopped turning, thus making the engine too cool. Funny thing is... the engine still dosen't get too hot. I let it idel for 15 minutes and the thermostat only went to the 1/2 mark. I drove it down the express way and the guage dropped down to the 1/3 mark. It acts like a VW beetle engine, like it's supposed to be air-cooled! As for the inside heat... it is a little better but not by much. I also disconnected the AC pump. That also helps a little. I will try the reverse hoses trick to back-flush the heater core and check for leaves, etc. tomorrow. :santa: T.J.

I had the same problem with my 92 Loyale only mine was from degreasing and washing the engine. Water got into the distributor and wouldn't get out. After inspection, there were hair-line cracks in the distributor cap, so I replaced it. Now it runs great! T.J.

After the neglect this poor car took from "the Ex" I just wanted to play it safe. It's a great little car and I want it to last. As for the lack of heat, I have another thread about this so I will continue to work on that problem. T.J.

I think I found the source of my 92 Subaru Loyale running too cool and not having enough heat. The belt driven fan was constantly spinning because the fan clutch was worn out. So, I did what any crazy engineer would do... I removed it. Interestingly though... the car still won't overheat! :santa: It's only 42 degrees outside so I let it sit and idle for a good 15 minutes. The thermostat came up to the halfway mark and stayed there. I took it for a drive on the expressway up to 65 MPH. The temperature gauge only went down to the 1/3 mark! Apparently this engine behaves like an old VW beetle engine and is air-cooled?! However, I am waiting for the electric fan to take over. I know the electric fan works when the AC is on, but will it also turn on by it's thermostat if the engine gets too hot? Any ideas? T.J.

Good ideas... I will check for leaves blocking the airflow. As for checking the hoses for heat when it's warmed up, they both get nice and hot Where can I get a flush/fill T connection for bleeding and checking flow? T.J.

Yes it had good air-flow out the vents, but fan speed 1 (slow) and 2 don't work. However even on the fastest fan speed the air flow is just average. T.J.

Of all the "lot cars" I have ever brough home that have sat for a long time outside, here is a list of things to check that typically "go bad" when a car sits too long... Fluids: power steering, brake, transmittion, gas, etc. all slowly absorb water over time. It is always a good idea to drain and replace the fluids *before* you drive the vehicle. Bad gas can really ruin an engine so you should test it first in a small gas powered tool first like a push mower or chain saw. If it seems ok, add some dry-gas (water remover) and some fule-injector cleaner before you drive. Tires: will develop flat spots and become out of round. Rubber also cracks and weakens in the sun. When in doubt, replace the tires. Brakes: will typically seize when parked for too long. Emergancy brakes (if left on) will always sieze. Pull a wheel and look at the brakes before you drive. Try to spin the wheel by hand. If it dosen't rotate freely, take the brakes apart and work the calipers back and forth by compressing them with a large C-clamp then slowly pumping the brake to get the piston back out. Mouse Nests: look in the air filter box and tail pipe *before* you start the car. Also check the fresh air intake for the heater. Good luck! T.J.

The "gurgle" sound is almost totally gone... however I can still hear a "whoosh" noise (the sound of flowing water) under hard acceleration. As for disconnecting the hose, I know I got the correct one as it has an arrow on in indicating the water flow. I used the one with the arrow pointing towards the front of the car. Thus, the water was pumped out. Also... I looked under the dash at the movement of the mechanisms that are controlled by the heater cable. The plastic gears and crank appear to be moving correctly and seem to slide to their maximum extension in both directions. I can also head the door open and close with a hollow plastic "thud" sound, when it is all the way towards hot or cold. Am I missing something? Can this unit be taken apart? Could something be broken inside? T.J.

I drove the car last night and the heater still dosen't work. You mention the "blend door" adjustment on the HIVAC unit. Can you please explain? Thanks! T.J.

Well... I just finished Skip’s procedure for bleeding the air out of the heater core. Here's what I did... 1. Elevated the front of the car on ramps 2. Disconnected the outlet hose from the heater core and attached a hose so it could discharge back into the radiator. 3. Corked the inlet hose/pipe back to the engine. 4. Ran the car for 2 minutes until it was a little warm. As I watched the fluid pump out of the heater core and back into the radiator it was a steady stream of coolant with only a few little hick-ups. After I drive the car tonight I will report back with the results. Hopefully I won't have to bundle up like old St. Nick when I drive! :santa: T.J.

Skip, I haven't started yet. I will keep your suggestions in mind about pressure out of the hose when I bleed the air. I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks! T.J.

Thanks! I will try it when I get home tonight. T.J.

Outside temp was 30 deg. but with the wind-chill it was about 0. T.J.

Hi Group, My 92 loyale has been having this problem off & on since October and I though we fixed it. I was wrong. Now that there's finally snow in NYS the heater doesn’t work so good. THE PROBLEM The air blowing out the heater is no warmer than your breath. THINGS I HAVE TIRED: * Changed thermostats 2X with new 195 deg units. * Flushed the heater core 3X * Visually inspected all vacuum hoses, and watched operation of all actuators and levers * Checked heater control cable, travel of control arms and general movements of parts * Blocked off ½ of radiator to restrict airflow * Tried to bleed air from heater core by jacking up front of car and running engine till warm with radiator cap off. ALSO... * The engine comes up to proper operating temp (about 1/3 to 1/2 way on dash gauge) * The lines to and from the heater core get hot The ONLY thing that is consistent when the heat gets luke-warm is that I can HEAR air bubbling though the heater core under hard acceleration. This same problem happened a year ago... so I had the local oil-change place change the radiator fluid with their power-flush system, which seemed to get the air out. The heat worked fine last year. QUESTIONS: * Could air in the heater core be the causing of the problem? * Will a radiator flush under pressure (<5 psi) help? I don’t mind bundling up to drive, but it’s not good for my 5 year old. Any help would be greatly appreciated! :santa: T.J.

Heater Core http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton%20Manuals/8797m/8797CH06_15.html T.J.

WINDSHIELD WIPERS AND WASHERS http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton%20Manuals/8797m/8797CH06_9_IDX.HTML T.J.

According to yea' old Hyanes manual... it looks like a pain in the rump roast. I'm not a doctor, nor do I play one on TV, so my advice to avoid headaches is to drink heavily. T.J.

A fuse will blow for 2 reasons... 1. Too much load (ie. motor or mech. is binding) 2. short to ground. Check the wires for the wiper motor where they pass thourgh the body to see if the insulation has rubbed off and is causing a short. Check the connectors for water inside. Check the wiper mechanisms for binding, rust, etc. My brothers VW fox wagon used to rust up in the swimg arm from the motor to the wiper arms. We had to spray it with penetrate oil and work it back and forth while powering the motor directly off the battery. Hope this helps. T.J.

You might be able to build an adaptor from to flush it yourself. Your local home improvement or hardware store should have fittings, hose clamps, etc that you can piece together to adapt it to a garden hose. Remove the thermostat, then disconnect radiator hoses on both sides to flush just the engine's water jacket. T.J.

:cornfuzz:

Perhaps the water jacket on the motor got plugged when the block was re-sealed? I'm not sure if you can flush this out, but you can call you local radiator shop and see if they have a way to pressure flush a radiator system in the car. I know the instant oil change places do a radiator flush, but it's typically low pressure (about 4psi) T.J.

PoorManzImpreza said: "the electric fan is temperature controlled when ac is off and always on when ac is on" Dose that mean the electric fan will automaticly take over if the belt fan fails (or is removed) ? T.J.

Thanks guys! Great info. Question: Dose the electric fan on a 92 Loyale really have a thermo switch on it, or is it "always on" when the AC is running? Thanks again! T.J.

Almost forgot... no leaks of antifreeze. T.J.