trooperjeep

There is lots of air blowing out of the vents, it's just not hot. I even duct-taped over the freah air intake near the hood and use it in AC mode with the compressor unplugged so it uses the warmer cabin air. Zoiks! It's freekin' a mystery! :eh: T.J.

A hose might be kinked eh? I'll check it out. Can you please send me the pic of the blend door controls? Thanks! :santa: T.J.

" if you haven't yet, check the valve that opens and closes the hot water flow .. its hooked to the cable that runs the temperature control.." ------------------------------- I didn't think the loyale had a valve? As far as I know it just has a "Heater Blending Door" and that the hot water is always flowing through the heater core when the engine is running? Also, there are no leaks or funky smells, aside from the typical burning oil that drips a little on the exhaust. Could it be a bad water pump with not enough pressure to the core? Just for grins, I pulled a heater hose and it seems to pump out fine. Not like a garden hose, but a slow steady stream. :-\ T.J.

Hi All, Just a follow up to a previous post "Wheres the Heat?! PART 3". Since I've tried everything I can think of, it it possible that the reason there is no heat is because the heater-core has gone bad? What happens when they go bad? Where can I get a replacement for a 92 Loyale? :cornfuzz: T.J.

Dont forget to add the "AT3 Slush-Box" "AT3 Slush-Box" A 3 speed Automatic Transmission called the "SlushBox" because the range between the gearing is so far apart it robs the engine of power and performance. "It feels like your driving in slush." Also, the top gear is also not tall enough for highway crusing and thus, the engine runs at 4300 RPM's when at 60 MPH. On the bright side... it is a very durable transmission, can survive lots of abuse, such as running with very little AT fluid. Also, it can be up-shifted manually to allow you to wind up the RPM's for maximum power.

Guinness?! Now yer' talking my language! It's the beer that drinks like a meal! Yummy! T.J.

We had almost a foot of snow here in Rochester NY this weekend so I took SubaDoo out to play. I had a blast doing donuts in the unplowed parking lots and rally-racing through the twistys in the "seasonal use" roads in the local park. It's a shame the heater won't work properly though. It's hard to drive when your hands & feet are numb. :santa: T.J.

I took a look at the Heater Blend Door last night and it seems to be fine. In fact the cable goes directly to a 1/2 moon shaped plastic gear that turns 90 degrees to a lever that must be conected to the door. It's a little hard to see when your 6'3" as you have to work upside down and need a shoe-horn to get in there. I tried to adjust the heater blend door lever but it's set a as far as it will go. In fact, the 1/2 moon gear has a raised bump on the end to prevent the gear from accidently going too far. So... just for grins I've closed off the cold air vents outside near the hood with duct-tape and disconected the AC plug. I've noticed that the heat is a little better now when on AC max as it must be pulling in air from inside the car and re-heating it. Any other ideas? :cornfuzz: T.J.

Another day, another experement. Ah... but at least you tried. I'm sure you'll figure it out. :santa: T.J.

Yes, both Heater hoses are hot. After the engine is up to temp the hoses are very hot. T.J.

Is the Heat blend door the one controled by the cable? I checked it to make ture it moved, but am unsure of it's position. If you could e-mail me the pic that would be great! I'm at: trooperjeep@myway.com Thanks! T.J.

Use an old stiff tooth brush to loosen the dirt and a powerful shop vac to pull it out of the fibers. T.J.

And... I disconnected the AC compressor plug so I can use only recycled air from the cabin to heat it up quicker. T.J.

Also... I have checked the movement/function of the vaccume controled levers/valves for the heater core as well as the cable controled lever for the heater / fresh air control. All is working properly. T.J.

Hi All, My 92 Subaru Loyale still has no heat! The temp gauge on the dash reads 1/2 which seems to be normal operating temperature, but the heat output is no warmer that your breath. :boohoo: Every once in a great while I can hear a little air bubbling in the heater core, but nothing major. I have checked the system for leaks but can find none. I even created an air bleeder T-valve for the heater core to try to get all the air out. To date, I have done the following: * Flushed the heater-core forwards and backwards 4 times. * Bleed the air out of the system * Replaced the thermostat twice and made sure the little jiggle valve faces back. * Put big piece of cardboard in front of the radiator to restrict the airflow. * Replace the belt driven fan with an adjustable, electric fan. * Wrapped heater hoses in pipe insulation * Insulated 1/2 the hood w/ fiberglass insulation to keep the engine warm. * Just added stop leak in case it’s a pinhole leak. Now the engine starts to boil over because it’s so hot, but I still don’t have any heat! I’m losing my marbles trying to figure out what's causing the problem! It’s a great little car and loves to play in the snow, but I’m getting tired of my 5 year old and I freezing every time we go for a ride. Any help would be greatly appreciated! T.J. :santa:

Just for grins, I siphoned out some of the extra fluid from the front differential though it's dip-stick tube to bring it back down to normal. I stand corrected... it was only over by 1/5 of a quart. T.J.

Had similar problems with my 92 Loyale. Here's my fix in a nut-shell... 1. Removed all the really loose rust with a heavy wire brush 2. Use a rust-converter spray (or similar) let dry. Give it another coat. Let it dry. 3. Prime the area (and inside the hole) with a sandable primer spray paint. 4. Fill the holes & voids with a water-proof expanding foam in-a-can stuff. They sell this at your local home improvement store. Make sure it's maximum expanding and water-proof! Mask off any areas you don't want it to stick to and wear gloves cause it dosen't come off! Let it dry overnight. 5. The next day take a sharp knife and carve off the excess foam 6. Blend the foam and edges of metal together with your favorite fiberglass. I used marine grade water-proof fiberglass. 7. Sand area till edges are blended and smooth. Repeat step 6 if necessary. 8. Mask off areas and spray with a sandable primer. Let dry. 9. Lightly sand area till smooth 10. Spray final coat of Paint. T.J.

Sounds like an electrical problem to me. When the engine heats up (metal expands when hot) something shuts off. I would try to get the trouble codes out of the computer first. On my 92 Loyale it's like this (I hope yours is similar) ...you can check the codes yourself if you unhook the test-mode connector, located under the dash near the fuse box. It's two "T" shaped plugs with 2 pins each inside. Unplugging this will get the LED (light) on the ECM (computer under the steering wheel) to flash it's codes. Here's some links to an on-line repair manual... TROUBLE CODES - HOW TO http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton%20Manuals/8797m/8797CH04_5_IDX.HTML TROUBLE CODE CHARTS http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton%20Manuals/8797m/8797CH04_SC.HTML There was another guy in this group who had a similar problem. Do a search on the thread named "EA82T Engine computer problem(up-date)" Also check out: ELECTRONIC ENGINE CONTROLS http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton%20Manuals/8797m/8797CH04_4_IDX.HTML Or the main INDEX: http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton%20Manuals/8797m/8797Search.html T.J.

Your right, it's the "front differential" that's taken on a little extra fluid. The short metal dipstick is a little bit beyond it's full mark. So i'm guessing that's where the missing automatic transmission fluid went to. Funny thing is... the car still shifts smoothly and the 4WD drive works great! Can I get by for now by just changing the fluids or should I just leave it alone? Also, what happens if the front differential has too much fluid in it? T.J.

Any comments? Ideas? T.J.

I found where the transmittion fluid was going... it's was slowly leaking into the transfer case. So... I put some transmission stop leak in the AT. It worked! It's been 2 weeks now and I think the leak has stopped. Now the question is... 1. Do I drain & refil the transmission with regular fluid? 2. Do I drain & refill the transfer case? It's only 2/3 quart over. :cornfuzz: T.J.

No leaves and back flushed the heater core... very little improvement on the Heat. Belt driven fan has been gone for 2 days and the car has yet to over heat or even go past the 1/2 way on the thermostat. I am making a "T" connector / air bleeder out of copper pipe and some valves. I'll try it this weekend if it dosen't improve. T.J.

I have 2 dog stories... 1. My favorite is when I had a old hound dog chasing my 69 AMC Rambler. I locked up the brakes and threw it in to reverse. It scarred the hell out of him! I'd never seen a dog run away so fast! 2. My old 82 CJ-7 Jeep on the back roads of Naples with a Black Lab chasing me. I stopped and shut off the engine. The dog stopped and didn't know what to do! It was so confused it scurried away with its tail between it's legs. T.J.

Not sure how your is car wired, but if you have the dual fan set up: ie. 1 belt driven fan, 1 electric fan, then the electric fan has it's own thermostat (even my AC fan has one) however, you could always put a switch in if you want. Check this link for more info on radiator fans... http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton%20Manuals/8797m/8797CH03_13.html As for my 92 loyale still running cool after I removed the belt driven fan, I tired the cardboard thing but it didn't hold up. So... I nstalled a sheet of alumimum plate where the fan shroud for the belt driven fan used to be. If it gets too hot, I can simple unbolt the plate. :santa: T.J.

I have the same problem in my 92 loyale. I removed the belt driven fan (cause it's clutch was stuck on) but... it still runs cool! The thermostat never gets above the 1/2 way mark. It acts like an air-cooled VW beetle! I think I'll put some cardboard in mine as well to help it warm up. Also, If you car has AC and the electric fan, you can just unplug the AC compressor under the hood and press the dash button for Max AC. This will turn the electric fan "on" if the engine is over heating. :santa: T.J.