trooperjeep

Hi All, I have already changed the the wires in my 92 Loyale to a high quality / high discharge type, but now I need to change the spark plugs. I want to get the best ones that will improve performance and millage. What do you think? T.J.

I'm happy with my 92 Loyal. It's one tough lil' car. As long as the engine and drive train are still good I say offer them $800. T.J.

I live in NYS, the salt belt. About 10 years ago they had a similar device called an "electronic rust evader" that I put on my old, rusty 82 CJ-7 jeep. It didn't help at all. The Jeep died of rust. However, 5 years ago when I bought a (used) mint condition 96 Nissan Quest minivan (with no rust) I brought a new "rust evader" gizmo and the van still has NO rust to this day. At 112K the van still looks like it's brand new. I think these gizmos only work on a rust free vehicle. I read somewhere that they use a similar technilogy on the oil tankers and oil rigs in the ocean to prevent the salt water from eating them up. I have found that the best way to fight rust is to sand it out, use a rust converter spray paint, then put a top coat of a good glossy paint so nothing sticks to it. T.J.

UPDATE #3 Well, it's been running for about a week and it seems to be holding. There are only a few pin-hole oil drips left. Hooray for oil-proof / high-temp silicone! T.J.

I had the same problem with my 92 Loyales headlights. Here's the way I fixed it... 1. disconnect the bulb and remove it from the lense assembly. 2. remove the headlight assembly from the car 3. use 90% rubbing alachol to "clean" the inside of the lens. You can pour in and drain the alachol through the light-bulb hole. 4. use a hair dryer (or low pressure air hose) to dry the inside of the lense. 5. use some clear GE silicone to re-seal the glass to the metal on the lense. 6. Let dry 7. reassemble. Now... providing your light bulb holder still has a good gasket on it, there should be no more moisture problems. If not get a new O-ring to re-seal the bulb into the lense assembly. T.J.

Hi All, There was water in the distributor and one of the plug wires had worn insulation from rubbing against the engine. I replace the cap and plugs and it started right up! T.J.

Hi All, This morning I degreased the engine. All went well and my 92 Loyale started right up afterwords. So... I let it run for 15 minutes to "dry". Later, I got in to drive and pressed the button for "heat". It seemed like the AC tried to kick on for a second then the RPM's dropped way down. The engine sputted, coughed and stalled. When I tried to restart it, the car back-fired really loudly in the engine compartment and then wouldn't start. What happened? Any ideas? T.J.

UPDATE: D'OH! Your right... it's NOT a Turbo, but I really wish it was. So what your saying is that the 3 speed Auto gets lousy gas millage? T.J.

Hi All, My 92 Loyale, auto, 4WD, with 97.7K is getting only 17 MPG on a tank of gas. It has all new brakes, shifts smoothly and as far as I can tell, nothing is dragging or binding. What is the average gas millage? T.J.

My 92 Subaru leaks from various locations... The main leak is around the timing belt cover, but I found in my records that the crank shaft oil seal was already replaced a year ago with the timing belts. However, I don't think the seals on the timing belt pullys were replaced. (more on this later) So... I also found some black RTV silicone that is hi-temp and oil-proof at the local auto parts store. I cleaned (with a lacquer thinner solvent) then siliconed all the places I though were leaking. After the silicone dryed (the next morning) I would spray the area with a silver high-temp paint to make it clean and easy to track future leaks. To prevent the oil from collecting within the timing belt cover I drilled a little hole in the bottom of the cover at the lowest point and added a tube with catch bottle ( about the size and shape of an Excedrin botle) to help drain and collect any oil that may be leaking from the timing belt pully oil seals. To date I have done this clean/re-seal 5 times. The oil leaks are almost totally gone and the little catch bottle is only 1/10 full. So far so good. T.J.

I did the direct replacement K&N air filter trick on my TBI 92 Loyale, then perforated the botom of the breather box to let in more air. It has a lot quicker throttle response now and seems to run better. Not too bad for a 90 HP engine. T.J.

Do you want me to check the resistance on the "purge control valve"? Is that the little metal mushroom shaped object on top of the charcoal canister? T.J.

UPDATE # 2 Well... I found some waterproof weatherstripping at the local home imporvement store to seal the hood where the engine compartment meets the fresh air intake for the cabin. I also found some black RTV silicone that is hi-temp and oil-proof! I cleaned, then siliconed all the places I though were leaking. As for the leak around the timing belt cover, I found in my records that the crank shaft oil seal was already replaced, but I don't think the seals on the timing belt pullys were. So... to prevent the oil from collecting within the timing belt cover I drilled a little hole in the bottom of the cover and added a tube with catch bottle to help drain and collect any oil that may be leaking from the timing belt pully oil seals. I'll let you know in a few days if it works. T.J.

UPDATE: I think the oil leak is coming from behind the timing belt pullys. It's a slow drip, but when your doing 65MPH down the express-way it sprays onto the exhaust a little bit. I would like to fix the leak but I do not have the time to rip the front of the car apart to change the seals. It is my daily driver and my only transportation. Yeah... I know. I'm a lazy American and just want a quick fix. Hey, can you blame a guy for trying? :-\

I forgot to mention to put the front end up on tall ramps. The angle will cause more fluid to drain out. T.J.

I have a 92 Loyale with an auto trans that needed a fluid change. Since it was still shifting smoothly I didn't drop the pan and change the trans filter, instead I just did the following... * Drain the trans fluid * Pour 2 quarts of cheap trans fluid through to help rinse it out. * Added "MaxLife" transmission fluid The car still shifts amazingly smooth and the minor leak around the pan has stopped. T.J.

Everything looks fine. How can I test the part itself? Any other ideas?

So... any ideas?

Look out Mad Max! Looks like someone needs to be a SFX vehicle designer for the movies or work on Monster Garage. Seriously... if you can make an old Subu look that damn cool, imagine what you could do with a huge budget! Good Job Man! T.J.

Hi All, Now that the cold weather is upon us (and I got the heater working again) my 92 Subaru is stinkin' us out with oil fumes. Like most all older cars, mine has a slight oil leak. Normally this is no big deal, but when the oil heats up on the hot engine, it turns to a vapor and gets sucked into the cabin when the heat is on. I see that the hood has a rubber gasket in between the engine compartment and the air vent intake for the cabin. I think this gasket is not sealing tight and is letting the fumes mix in with the heated air. Question: How can I prevent the oil fumes from entering the cabin? Would adding some weather stripping help? Is there a way to re-route the fresh air intake? Thanks! T.J.

Hi All, I have a 92 Subaru Loyale wagon, auto, 4WD and the "check engine" light has been on since I got it back. I read the codes from the computer and it is an error code "35" which I think is the purge control valve. What is this valve for? Dose it affect MPG or preformance? Where is it located? How do I fix this? T.J.

UPDATE: I changed the thermostat and flushed the radiator. The engine gets hot and the temp guage goes to the 1/2 way mark but, the heat is still too weak. How do I locate the vaccume mechanisms and doors you mentioned? T.J.

Hi All, As some of you may know, I just finished "restoring" my 92 Subaru Loyale after the ex-wife attmepted to trash it. Needless to say, the car is very durable and after a lot of repairs (thanks again group) it is back on the street and it runs great! I live in Rochester, NY and it's getting COLD. However, now I have a new problem... Where's the HEAT?! QUESTIONS: I have never changed the thermostat. What is the recommended temp for a new one? I have read that "air-bubbles" in the heater core can cause problems. How do you get all the air out? Do the control levers / cables / vacuume motors ever go bad and stop the heat? How do I check? Thanks! T.J.

Hi All, I have a 92 Loyale that suffered from the "clacking engine" problem. Following this groups advice I used "Marvelous Mystery Oil" and (for the winter) added a light weight oil (5w30) Now I wonder that the oil may be too thin and that many of you suggest 20w50 as the heavier oil will help the oil pressure, and the MMO will thin it down to be just right. QUESTIONS: What's the best oil weight to use? What's the best brand? How much MMO is enough? Can I use MMO at each oil change? T.J.

Quote: . . . because it would pull in the hot air from the engine compartment, especially since the air-filter box is above the front cat-converter. Wouldn't this cause the air to overheat? . . . . . . Old (abdiadic) rule of thumb: every 10°F temp rise = 1 HP drop. Keep a cold air feed for best power. Do not use underhood air. . . . --------------------------------------------------------------------------- On that note... I have been trying to figgure out how to create a cold air intake for the air-filter box. I found a few web-sites with some good ideas such as: http://www.allfordmustangs.com/techarticles/coldair.htm Has anyone made a set up like this for a Subaru? Any Pics? T.J.