Spokane-Pete

Should definitly not be red wire for ground, and I wonder about the rust or corrosion issues of grinding area's not to be covered. They'll need to be painted or plated to avoid it. But what started the problem anyway? Peter

http://home.usadatanet.net/~jbplock/ISO5011/SPICER.htm Especially read the end.

I think if the oil is dirty at 3000 miles or otherwise, its because its collected dirt. A big reason why its detergent oil to suspend it and let it clear out when its drained. You probably had a fair bit of grunge in the pan and so forth and with that oil it started cleaning it up. Consider it a bonus. Ever use the engine flush stuff? You'd be amazed at what comes out of what you thought was a clean engine.

Fantastic. Good on you. Reminds me of an MG Midget story a friend of mine owned. Bought it cheap at auction because of very low oil pressure and external oil leaks. Guess what it really was!? Mechanical oil pressure gauge sender line heading to the dash gauge. Line leaked causing apparent low reading on the gauge, and the oil leak of course was just the broken oil line leaking all over the engine. Replaced the line and voila, instant oil pressure! Peter S

Watts and South Central LA should be bulldozed over, After a nuclear bomb. thats about the only way it would improve.

I just had my Lexus ES300 windows tinted. I'd hate to do it myself. Hot work, hard on the back, pain to get right. I'm very glad I had it done and made a deal to get the glass sunroof done in limo black. If I want to see out I'll open it! Seriously keeps the heat out. I did the windows 33% which was plenty. The back looks darker only because of the combination of the 3 back windows adding to each other. Its much less glare and much cooler. Well worth the $165.

The interior is really nice actually. The front is especially bad though. Back is a bit odd too. Paint was weird though I forget why. I think it was that some pieces solid black and others were very fine pearl. Weird. Probably goes and functions well, just looks weird. I like the analogy to the Saab 93. PS

You could use a higher wattage resistor also. But the motor is almost certainly teh culprit. PS

What year model is it? Does it use R12 or R134a Freon? Do you have any test equipment, or can borrow some? Have you checked fuses and see if the compressor is even turning? Might be electrical rather than low freon. Peter S

I like cut-away drawings. Part see-through view learning and part art. Can anybody point me to any Subaru Engine and Outback etc? Also any animations of engines operating would be great too. Thanks. Peter S

Interesting to say the least. Apparently different variants of the same year model have different dash controls, but which do, and which don't? With this in mind I wonder if they are interchangable. I'd rather have a rotory dial than climate control if thats the exchange. Peter S

Can somebody tell me if their 01 Outback (any variant) has a one button fan speed control vs a rotary dail? PS

Really like the H6 VDC outback I test drove but didn't like the black leather. Just too hot. Probably cold and stiff in winter too. Was there a dark color cloth available with H6? Is there a dark color cloth seat from another version/model that would fit properly I could sway with? Peter S

I drove an 2001 Outback VDC with H6-3.0. It had an irritating one button control for dash fan speed. Push once to forward up in speed or continue to push till you're back to low speed. Is that unique for the H6 or any 01 Outback? The 02 had a proper rotory dail control. Don't remember the 00'. Peter S

The sales guy said the 'real' price was $2-3K off the posted price which was on a car that wasn't there more than a couple days. He said it was to come down a lot and to make a low offer since it had 92K miles. They only came down $200 so wasn't anywhere near half way or whatever to meet me. They wanted me to come up $5K which is unrealistic. Peter S