itzik93

You can always try to FLUSH the reflectors (inside flush) Look at the pictures (they perfectly shows the diffrence between "before" and "after"). Itzik

These car's tends to overheat of there is "no flow" situation in the heater-core water lines (trapped air situation). First, disconnect the water hoses of the heater in the engine bay and pump water to one of them untill clean water comes from the other water line. Connect the water hoses of the heater to thire original location and check the fluid level in the radiator (fill up in necessery). Start the engine and check for overheat. If its still overheat, check the thermostate and water-pemp. (Once i had a incident with an Impreza that started to overheat after disconnecting the heater-core water lines. The mechanic did a bypass with a hose that didnt allow the water to flow. I disassembled the hose and connect another hose that allow the water to flow as usuall. The car never overheated since). Itzik

Thanks for all the replys guy's... The car is Legacy 1996 EJ20 N/A (automatic, FWD)... Just wanted to make sure if those parts are adjustable without a scanner. The FSM says that the TPS has to be adjusted after cleaning the IAC valve, i guess there is a connection between ther IAC and the TPS. I think by going 0.5 Volt on fully closed throttle makes the IAC job easyer (less adjustments from the ECU). Itzik

Hi, The idle air control solonoid valve is made of 2 parts, the upper one and the bottom one. The upper one is *probably* a "Magnet Coil" and the bottom one is a by-pass valve / "butterfly". The upper part is adjustable... The factory service manual says that after cleaing this by-pass valve, you should use a SCANNER to confirm that the duty ratio of this valve is 25-40%. Besides that, the factory service manual also says that after that you should adjust the throttle position sensor to the proper position to make the duty ratio of the by-pass valve 25-40%. My throttle position sensor is adjusted to 0.45 Volt on fully closed throttle. Is there any way to perform a good calibration to the TPS and the IAC without using scanner tool ? Thanks Itzik

Sorry about the "dude" thing, i didnt know u hate it... You should do what you think its good for you and your car. Im saying that this screen has to be serviced 40-80K Km - and by saying "serviced" i meen that this filter has to be cleaned (not replaced) and reinstalled. Somtimes this screen is damaged (cracked) and its bad for the transmission. Only when its damage - its need to be replaced. If you really want to take car of your transmission, clean this screen every 80,000km (what you see in the pictures upstairs is a 83,000km filter that never been cleaned before). Itzik

Wrong answer dude. This screen has to be serviced (only clean) every 40,000-80,000KM. You can also replace it with a new one (and you must do it IF the screen is broken/cracked). Itzik

Hi all The factory service manual recommanded resistance per wire is around 5-12K Ohm (legacy 1996 N/A EJ20 Auto' FWD). Is there any diffrence in fuel consumption and engine performance using wires with resistance around 10-12K Ohm VS. wires with, let say, 4-5K Ohm ? I read on some sites that wires with very high resistance (18-20K Ohm for ex.) could damage the sparkplugs and even cause damage to the ignition system. 10x Itzik

Use a STRONG screw driver. Done that before and also used braker bar to remove the bolt (piece of cake) Here's 2 pictures during the proccess.

A car that sat 11 monthes without moving at all will have to be checked (brakes, etc...) and replaced all fluid's (engine, gear, radiator, brake fluid...) filters and rubber hoses/parts (recommanded: radiator hoses and brake hoses). Also check for tire damage... tires dont like to sit for long periods. If the CV boots are looking bad (dry with cracks) - replace them before they'll tear apart. Izik

Relax guys... since 1/9/2005 in israel we pay 5 US $ for a gallon ! and thats for regular ! the premium costs around 5.65$ for a gallon !!! Comparing to other countries, We pay around 0.5$ *more* per 1 liter -> TAX for the ******* goverment... Izik

Have you removed the balljoint lock nut that you'll be able to remove the hub outward and then the axle shaft ? Izik

There is a simple and easy way to do it, and you need for that GOOD TOOLS. Im using "Profexene" 1/2" SET and its wonderful. I bought a rod with an 1/2" adapter. Its exactly like 1/2" ratchet but without the ratchet. I put *1 meter* pipe on it and turn it counter clockwise. This way you are multyplying your hand torque very easy (its also good to open the crankshaft pully nut) Piece of cake... Itzik

If you use a good quality boots, your problem is trapped air in the CV boot. I replaced my boot after 4 monthes because the air in the boot caused a small hole that spits grease all over the place. Took the Axle out, replaced the boot and closed it with 2 strong plastic strips. I stripped the 1st plastic strip normally, the second one needs more attention: you should press the boot to release trapped air in the boot - and while pressing the boot you should close the second strip. Good luck :-) Izik

G-R-E-A-T pictures !!! Thanks !

94-00

Is it SOHC or DOHC ?

Yep, its probably your speedo head. If your cruise control works and no check engine light appears then probably the "engine" of the head has died. The speedo head is also a small computer that gets AC voltage from the VSS. you can check the VSS by a volt-meter (on "AC" mode) and run the car (you can do it on jackstands or by driving it). The small computer in the speedo head takes the AC voltage from the VSS and uses it for couple of things: 1. Run the Speedo needle (if you have needle...) 2. Run the odometer counter 3. Output singal to the ECU (for 2 reasons: 1-cruise control, 2-to prevet engine stall while stopping the car).

Which engine do you need ? (EJ16, EJ18 etc...)

Thats the price you have to pay if you want power and AWD. If you dont need it, you can defenetly manage with 2 liter FWD car and save alot of money. I own a MY96 legacy, FWD, 2.0 automatic. fuel consumption is 20MPG urban (lots fo traffic and short trips) and already achieved 33MPG inter-urban... Remember, power (& AWD) costs... :-)

2 things: 1. I think ur wrong. I've checked with the volt-meter and the "motor" spins prefectly and generates AC voltage perfectly. 2. An hour ago i replaced the VSS with a new one (104$ + tax at the dealr's main garage) and now the speedometer is working PERFECT !!!! The meaning is that the old VSS had short waves when spining slowly... BTW: Ordering the sensor from the internet costs 65$ + 30$ of shipping (95$ total) which are not too far away from the price here. Thanks for everyone that helped !!! Izik

A new VSS costs here around ~120$, not cheap... but i guess i will try to find one in the jankyard (or maybe its a bad idea ? donno...) BTW: this is how the VSS looks inside:

10x for answering but what cable r u talking about ? Its a 96 Legacy and the speedoemeter guage is getting signal (AC signal, not DC) from the VSS (2 wire). no cable. I've checked the harness and its ok. I suspect that the VSS signal is too weak in the begining because the speedometer is working only from 20~km/h. The VSS is none-fixable/sealed-unit ***but*** i succeeded to open it (i also have pictures that i will upload later). I cleaned inside the VSS and closed it (with tuff hard glue). The VSS is actully a small motor that produce AC voltage when you turn it. The Speedometer guage is getting AC signals (waves) and compail them. I suspect that the AC waves that the VSS is producing under 20 km/h are too weak. Since then (then=opening the VSS) the speedometer is working only from ~20 km/h (before that the was working alternately - somtimes perfect from 0 and somtimes from 20-50 km/h. Any idea's ? Izik

Hi, Well, after checking the VSS again im totally confused. I was almost sure that the VSS is not OK but i think i was wrong. Checked the VSS again today, there is a pefect AC signal from the VSS, starting with 0.xxx volts from the 1st cm that the vehicle moves and a good linear signal (around 8 Volts at 60-70 Km/h). From what i've searched the forum, the signal should be around 0-5 Volts but im guessing that there are few models of VSS with 2 or 3 wires and if i get a good linear signal then the sensor is OK, even if the AC signal around 60-70 Km/h is around 8 volts. For those who knew vss/speedometer problems, have you checked the AC signal from the VSS and can confire this ? I guess now i have to deal with the speedometer head, has anyone tried to fix it ? mine doesnt work good below 20-30 Km/h, only above everything is working good. Thanks... Izik

As far as i know, its no.1 in your pic. Itzik

Have the same problem. on hot days or after a 15-20 minutes of driving, the speedo needle jump wildly between 0-30Mph (somtimes less), above that everything is OK. the odometer also doesnt work when the needle quits. Tapped the cluster when it happend did not help. seems that the problem is the VSS on the transmission (which i already disassembled and pictured). btw: its a 96' legacy (sedan) 2.0L FWD automatic.