DerFahrer

Yeah, 360°. Sorry. Long day.

Damn you people and your non-USDM cars throwing me off Actually, I was kinda expecting someone to chime in about how some EDM EJ18's had dizzys I've done two EA82 timing belts before, and all you have to do is just line everything up before you take the old belt off, then just put the new belt on, move the sprockets what little you need to get them lined up, and go from there. Then you know your timing is right.

That's absolutely correct. Because EJ engines do not use a distributor, it is impossible to be 180º out. The crank and cam sensors will still read the sprockets the same way, and they will still know when to open each injector and fire each plug. If you're so inclined, take your timing belt off, turn ONLY your crank 180º (assuming you have a non-interference engine), and reinstall your timing belt correctly. Your engine will run the same way. As long as your marks are lined up properly, like I explained, you are guaranteed to have your engine timed properly. Don't ask me about DOHC engines though, I haven't done one of those

I dunno. I've corrected a 91 turbo that had it one tooth off, and it really didn't run that bad. It ran better after I fixed it, don't get me wrong, but it didn't run terrible when I fixed it. Olnick, here's how you do it. 1) Line the crank sprocket up first! You do wanna use the mark on the sprocket (the one on the back, on the sensor tooth), and line that up to the mark on the engine. Get that lined up as perfectly as possible, and don't touch it. Do this procedure right and you won't move the crank again. 2) Identify the marks on the belt. I still can't recall from memory, but I'm 99% sure the broken line on the belt is the one that corresponds to the crank. Regardless, identify all 3 marks. Of course, make sure you have the belt on the right way, you should be able to read the writing on the belt right-side-up while you're putting it on. 3) Align the marks. As you install the belt, put it on with the mark lining up on the crank first. Then slip them over the cam sprockets (you'll need to remove the bottom two idler pullies to have enough slack). Line the marks on the cams up with the marks on the belt. Once you have these 3 marks lined up, YOU ARE DONE TIMING THE ENGINE. IT IS TIMED PROPERLY. There is no need to find TDC, there is no need to compare the marks on the sprockets with the marks on the engines, there is no need to do anything else except continue reassembling everything else.

Don't use the marks on the timing covers, I repeat, DON'T use the marks on the timing covers. In my opinion, they're only for getting the sprockets in the right position. Line up the marks on the belt with the marks on the sprockets, and you're golden. If it is timed correctly, these marks will line up perfectly. The way it looks now, it appears you're one tooth off.

Only the 05+ STi and SVX use the 5 X 114.3 pattern. The WRX still uses 5 X 100. I think offset is +55.

This change includes the switch from the driver's-side EA71 casting to the front EA71 casting? Because my 79 has EA71 cast on the driver's side.

I dunno how the EL20 compares, but both the bore and stroke of the EJ25 are larger than the EJ20. Bore X stroke of EJ20 is 92 X 75 mm Bore X stroke of EJ25 is 99.5 X 79 mm

Your 89 Legacy is a quad-cam? Isn't it an EJ18?? I'd like to see pics if you can get them. You'll have to excuse me, as I keep forgetting that I'm only giving the USDM perspective and forgetting that there ARE other markets out there Also, it seems to be that no EJ20 turbo exists anymore, in new Subarus. They're all EJ25s. I looked on the Subaru UK and Germany website, and from what I could tell, the only turbo engines are EJ25s. All 2.0 engines are nonturbo.

keltik, I was being sarcastic in my post. bdg73 posted, and I quote, "16 valves means 4 crazy cams," which is entirely untrue, because the majority of EJ Subaru engines, which ALL have 16 valves, are SOHC, meaning they only have two cams. All your head bolts are toward the ends of the heads . The middle bolts are only holding your valve covers onto your heads. Setright, are these new EL engines being used all across Europe? Including England perhaps? What about the turbo cars, are they using new EL-T's, or are they still EJ's?

From what I could tell, the GenI and GenII stuff doesn't matter, they all use that same spring. I only saw that one part number for them.

Yes, they will interchange. Part number for the USDM cars is 625003151, and that part number shows up from the 72-74 models all the way up to the 2WD 90-94 Loyales.

I've seen an STi come in with a blown headgasket. We can sit here and argue over the causes all day long. One person I've talked too says the EJ25 is too big for its britches. It's tough to describe, and I don't remember everything he said, but the bore is basically too big and coupled with the longer stroke, the engine works itself apart in a way. It's not just headgaskets, the bottom ends have issues too. Then I've heard that the head bolts were not torqued properly at the factory on the EJ25s. Then as Manarius mentioned, there's talk of the headgaskets themselves being manufactured improperly.

Of course four cams equals power, at the expense of torque But that's another thread. But the last time I checked, the EJ22 that's in my Legacy is 16-valve (it's cast into the valve covers), and I distinctly remember only lining up two cams when I put a timing belt on it. Rumor has it other Subaru 16-valve engines only have two cams as well. Oh, and Lukas, the AVCS I referenced in my last post is the variable valve timing that we have here in the US. VTEC is Honda's version of variable valve timing. Interesting that the 2.0R is also an EL20. I wonder if we'll start seeing EL engines soon!

Kevin, you installed the shifter MOUNT bushings. Look up a few posts, you'll see the differentiation I made. Sean understands what I'm talking about. That's what I've always heard it called, a "boss." It's held onto the shift rod by those two pins, and yes they are a HUGE pain in the nutz to get out. And, he said exactly what I thought he would, he gave up Keep your pants on everybody. Once I get my hands on the STi short-throw and get some time, I'll redo my shifter and take lots of pics to explain the process.

EL15 huh? Weird! Well, sort of . The intake manifold is quite different from what I'm used to seeing. I'm very surprised to see this "basic" engine seems to be DOHC and also coil-on-plug. It even looks like it has AVCS on the passenger side head! I agree. I wonder if it really is just an EJ-based engine which is coded an EL, just like the EG33 in the SVX and the EZ30 in the new Outbacks and Tribecas. And bgd73, you really don't want me to point out all the fallacies in the post you just made...

Sure they will! There might be some TCU/wiring differences that I might not know about, but any 4EAT from any 90-94 Legacy will bolt up. The 90-91s look like so, this is my 91: Then the 92-94s look like this, this is the 93 wagon my grandfather had: All axles will interchange. Doesn't matter if it's AT or MT, FWD or AWD. The struts are technically different, but will interchange.

I like the way that muffler looks Lukas! It looks sporty without looking ricey. So, put all our arguments to rest. How's the power? I'm sure it's no neck-snapper, but is it adequate? Does it get the job done? Oh, and if you could, take pics of the D/R lever and the engine bay

As Manarius has said, the only fully closed-deck EJ-series engine Subaru has ever sold in the USA is the EJ22T that is in the 91-94 Legacy Turbo. (It is NOT an EJ22G as the SPD website suggests.) The EJ205 that was in the 02-05 WRXs is open-deck. The EJ255 and EJ257, the 2.5 turbo engines, are semi-closed deck. And the EJ25 is NOT a bored-out EJ22. Yes, the bore is larger, but so is the stroke.

I don't mean to pick on anyone, but I seriously think that once people see what's involved in replacing these damn things, they freak and never give it a shot. I guess I'm a braver soul than others Truth be told, I can't remember what size punch I used. It really doesn't matter that much. Buy yourself a nice set of punches from Sears or something (or hurry up and get your friend/family/spouse to buy one for you for Christmas ), and that will definitely have the appropriate size for this job. Good luck! Oh, and how's the weather in Honolulu? I visited there in 97, and would give anything to go back!

You guys crack me up :lol: As 91Loyale and GeneralDisorder have already alluded to, the number one way to determine how much power an internal-combustion engine can make is how much air it can move. The more air it can move, the more power it can make. Be that from having a huge displacement, forced induction, or sky-high revs, the only way for an engine to make power is to move air. And with the head designs of the EA-series Subaru engine, it is never going to move a lot of air.

Yes, and that Rover was still just an Acura Legend. Here's the correct Wikipedia link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sterling_%28car%29

Huh??? The EJ18, EJ20, and EJ22 all are open-deck designs and do not have the HG issues of the EJ25.

Well, the Sterling that I posted a picture of, strangely enough, is just an Acura Legend with Sterling badging. That's the only Sterling that we ever got in this country.

It probably is your alternator. Take it out, take it to Advance, and have them test it.