alias20035

I am not Emily, but I can answer your power question: 190 HP was rumoured to be the output of the new Forester Turbo, which turned out to be 210hp (but is actually in the 235-240 hp range). Some of the EJ20 turbo engines were 190hp. Here are the specs on the EJ22T from http://www.cars101.com 2.2L turbo charged 4 cylinder Boxer engine HP 160@5600rpm, torque 181@2800rpm multi-port fule injection, 15.( US gal tank, Premium fuel 91 Octane) Even with this relitively low power, the EJ22T can propel the Legacy to 30MPH faster than almost any other car out there, from 30MPH onward it looses some steam but is still much better than the non-turbo EJ22.

At about 4-5 years of age the rear wiper motors assembly will start to rust and the wiper shaft can seize up. I rarely see a wiper motor fail, I usually see a seized shaft or broken gears. Broken gears a usually the result of using the wiper with the blade frozen to the glass. A seized wiper assembly can be mostly prevented by regular usage, don't give rust the time it needs to seize the assembly. Use the wiper every chance you get. A delay timer is a great addition, the constant wipe action is useless except when spraying fluid. Frag: does your wash cycle still run the wiper constantly, or is it intermittant too? I would fold the wiper away from the glass and run the wiper, if the noise is present it is likely the motor assembly, otherwise it is the blades hopping on the glass. Clean your rear glass with windshield glass stripper (seems to be only available at Wal-Mart?). It is a paste like mechanics hand cleaners (even seems to contain pumice or something like it), and it removes all of the oil build up on the glass. I also use it on the wiper blades. This helps my front wiper noise. Unless in the worst downpour, not enough water is present on th rear glass to lubricate the constant wiper.

I never touched the O2 sensor because, aside from the IAC valve problem, my check engine light never came on, the engine ran good and my fuel economy was close enough to the somewhat over enthusiastic Transport Canada ratings. My overall average was 10l/100km, dropping to under 9l/100km at best and 13l/100km at worst (rarely though). I used to average around 11-12l/100km commuting from Hudson to downtown Montreal in winter, if that helps. Maybe traffic in Montreal is far worse than in 94-98 when I was there. I lived in downtowm Montreal for two years but never drove anywhere. My 01 Outback gets better highway mileage but seems to drink a fair bit more fuel in the city, I now get 13.5l/100km mostly short city trips. It is a bigger engine and a considerably heavier car than my 93 Legacy. I don't know if this helps, but I lost a lot of fuel economy due to a bad rear wheel bearing. It was a loud whine/rumble until it warmed up and then it was completely quiet. Above freezing there was no whine at all so I thought it was simply a cold diff. It sucked up an extra 2-3l/100km. In Alberta I would cruise between Calgary and Banff at better than 130kph with a ski box (not during a chinook though with its tornado like winds in the foothills area), and still get 13l/100km or better. And this was at altitude (6,000ft) which should have a detrimental effect on fuel economy. Perhaps the formulation of Quebec gas is significantly different than Alberta, but there is a fairly high content of ethanol in Alberta gas to deal with the Chinook temperature swings where it can go from -30C to +14C and vice-versa in just a few hours. The rapid temperature drop freezes up a lot of cars.

Here is TSB 03-52-03 The clutch judder TSB is not on NHTSA.gov.

You can also find TSB's at http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/tsbsearch.cfm Although this list is not as complete as the one on Techinfo.Subaru.Com

Technical Service Bulletin (TSB), they are issued to dealers for common problems, they are sort of a hidden voluntary recall which only applies to owners that have the problem and complain about it. TSB's can be found at Subaru Techinfo. You have to pay to read them, but for free you can know which ones exist and the dealer can provide the details. Check the following two TSB's: 03-51-02R - Cold Clutch Judder (refers to a rough clutch when cold) 03-52-03R - Clutch pedal sticking (refers to the pedal sometimes sticking down) Some dealers change both head gaskets, while others only replace the failed one, that said all of the failures that I have seen are on the left side only. I would clean the engine of all coolant and oil residue, down the road this will make spotting the telltale light green/white line on the back or bottom of the engine easier to spot. Also watch the coolant level and any sweet smell (which is usually coolant boiled on the exhaust). Most of the external leaks occur when the engine is very cold, and once the engine warms up the leak will seal itself. Eventually the cold temp part time leak becomes more serious as the head gasket degrades.

In Canada we used MTBE or something like it to reduce gas line icing. Between the snow tires, ski box, cold temperatures and the fuel my fuel ecomony seemed to drop only about 10-15%. Warm up idling was something I tried to avoid and it has a very significant impact to fuel economy. MIL is a second oxygen sensor on the downstream side of the catalytic convertor to detect emmisions systems failure. Most gen2 and all gen3 Legacy's have this.

External head gasket leaks are a regular occurance on the Phase II EJ25 SOHC. Phase II leak externally on the left rear side in most cases, and this is not nearly as serious as the internal head gasket leaks on the Phase I EJ25 DOHC. Very few Phase II EJ25 SOHC external head gasket leaks repeat the failure if properly serviced the first time. Did oil contaminate the clutch? Subaru has a TSB to repair clutch judder, but not one for premature clutch failure. It could be a problem with the hydraulics, is the clutch fork moving its full extension? Subaru has several TSB's related to the hydraulic clutch system. Your clutch failure would be do to the folllowing: * hydraulic problem (sounds likely since disc failures are quite gradual and are usually described as a slipping clutch) * oil contamination * manufacturing defect * improper free play adjustment (clutch partly disengaged all the time, causing quick wear out of the disc)

What do you mean by "Sticky" valves? Sticky valves are not related to engine speed/load and usually it requires a valve job to correct. Do you mean clicking/clacking lifters? Clicking lifters can sometimes be solved by the addition of a Wynn's Valve Quiet to the oil. Other times a new lifter is required, or the oil pump backing plate has come loose leading to insufficient oil pressure. Could your catalytic convertor be plugged? At FOT the engine might be struggling to eject exhaust causing the exhaust valves to overheat and not fully close. If not prompty repaired the exhaust valves can melt, because the valve releases its heat to the engine block when closed, and if it doesn't fully close it can't release its heat. The 2.0 and 2.2 are both good, no significant difference in terms of reliability. The 2.2 would be prefered for more power with no additional fuel consumption. The 2.0 exists because some countries driver's license restrictions are based on engine size with new driver's being limited to 2.0 liters or less.

I was getting 30 MPIG (miles per imperial gallon) which is 10l/100km or about 25 mpg for mostly city driving on my 93 Legacy with 466,000 km on it. It was still on the original oxygen sensor. On the highway the mileage was about 9l/100 km or 33MPIG (26 MPG), although most of my highway mileage was with a roof rack and ski box and/or bikes attached.

I am fairly sure it pops straight up, and you might need the shift lever in neutral (set the hand brake). If it is like the 5MT you pry the rear (near hand brake) first. The first time that these come apart is the hardest. Tools are not recommended, but if absolutely necessary use a wide flat prybar and wrap it with masking tape to protect the trim. I don't know which bulb is under there, but odds are that is the common style like the cruise switch. Be sure to replace ALL bulbs on the panel, since the Radio Shack bulbs tend to be brighter than the Subaru ones (not much brighter, but side by side you will notice it).

When cats plug the car will usually not run at all, or run very very badly, hardly able to idle. Your cat will also glow in the dark because it will get very, very hot!! Are you sure your cat is the the problem? The Legacy cats are not known for too many problems, as the Legacy fuel injection system prevents the rich a/f ratio problems that caused issues on the older EA81/2 Subaru's. I would check the intake side for signs of trouble with the A/F ratio such as the MAF sensor and TPS sensor (not detecting FOT?), and possibly the pre cat oxygen sensor (the one and only oxy sensor on your car?). Some shops can install a backpressure guage in place of the oxygen sensor to detect excessive backpressure which is usually indicative of a clogged catalytic converter. Unfortunately most shops would rather change parts than diagnose. With this test the oxygen sensor will be disconnected, and the ECU will net to be reset afterwords. Speaking of reseting the ECU, I would unplug the negative battery terminal for 15 minutes to restore the factory settings. When the battery is reconnected the ECU will relearn the sensor paramters during the first drive. Sometimes this cures problems, but not all that often, but it is worth a shot since it is a no cost item.

Water pump/timing belt change is a fairly standard item for a car of this age. I would also change all fluids and replace the thermostat/rad pressure cap if not done recently. All EJ series SOHC engines are non-interference, it is ths DOHC ones that are interference, but don't count on zero valve damage on a non-interference engine if the timing belt lets go, it does happen from time to time. Along with the water pump I would remove the oil pump and change its seal and retighten the backing plate, and also change the camshaft and crankshaft seals, they often leak destroying the timing belt in the process. The valve covers are also commonly replaced. The knocking sound may be covered under a TSB, most of these earlier Subaru's had a knocking sound that required the installation of a resistor on one of the control units power wires to prevent the flap actuator from knocking. Or your fan could be gone, but this is usually a squeal type sound not a constant knocking. Given the age the dealer may not do the TSB free. I seem to recall that it only knocks when in the "Off" position or something like that. 50/50 driving conservatively should return mileage aroud 19-23 MPG, about 3-5 MPG less than a normally aspirated model. Leadfoots will get far less. An intercooler won't help mileage too much, except in hot weather where the ECU will run the mixture rich to lower combustion temperatures. You will also get less knock which will increase engine efficiency and hence fuel economy. The intercooler is more for reliable power and for high boost, not for fuel economy. The turbo timer will not make up for the damage already done to the turbo, so save you money for other things (like sunvisors). Subaru has a very intelligent passive turbo spin down protection system, and not many Subaru turbo's fail due to lack of a turbo timer. Check for rust on the lower fender between the wheel and door, remove the mudflap if necessary. Also pull back the rubber rear wheel well lip and check for rust. These two areas are usually the first to go, followed by the rocker panel, driver's door, and tailgate/trunklid. Also check the gas tank, in particular where the the filler pipe enters the top of the tank, note any gas smell. The sunroof might need some cleaning and lubrication as well as a new felt seal. The sunroof area is also a point to check for rust. Check for leaks, sunroofs don't seal but they do have water management channels and tubes that run down the roof pillars, and these can become clogged or disconnected. The visors have to come off to remove the headliner to service the sunroof, is it a coincidence that they are missing? Sunroof parts can be either hard or easy to come by, when you need them it is typically hard.... Did you do some tight turns to check for torque bind? Set $1,000 aside to fix the transfer case, it tends to occur on higher mileage models, but it is possible that this has been fixed already or will never occur. I would go to Edmunds.com and look up the value for your area, this car would be valued in the poor column because of the missing parts (indicates issues). From my books the value is $2,200 on the private market and a bit higher if mileage is below 100,000. (average is 12,000 miles/yr X 12 yrs = 144,000 miles). I would have a mechanical look over that includes a check for head gasket problems (hydrocarbon/pressure test), the Turbo's can warp heads beyond repair along with a head gasket failure. If you have the time and skill to fix these cars up they can be restored to an almost new condition and be very reliable.

CV joints are easily broken by driving in the manner that you did. If you are spinning your wheels on snow and ice, and then catch clean pavement it is often possible to rip a tire off of wheel or break the CV joint ball retainer cage. 5MT Legacy's can run with one completely failed front CV shaft (I have done this), but it should be a quick run to the garage to get it fixed.

I fill my new oil filter as much as possible prior to installation and the remaining contents of a 4 litre oil container fill the engine to just above the full mark on the dipstick. My manual indicates 4 litres for the EJ25, which is about 4.25 qts. (1 qt = 0.946 litres).

Here is the info for the cruise control bulb (which you already have, but I am posting it for others): The wood grain panel should pull off without tools, it will not be easy though. The dash area around the panel can be flexed to help release the panels locking tabs. You can also remove the small storage bin, and reach up and push the panel out. Once the panel is off, you can release the wiring harnesses from the switches. The switch can then be released from the panel, this may require a flathead screwdriver to pop the switches locking tab. There are two lights on the switch, one for "Cruise" and the other for the orange indicator. Both are in bulb holders that are removable by unscrewing and pulling out of the switch body. Radio shack 12v clear bulbs with simple wire leads can be used. See this web page for more information Which autotrans indicator light, the dash one or the one in the shift lever console?

Sorry, the 5MT reverse switch is on the transfer case (back end of transmission), not the left side of the transmission.

I am guessing to run rich to cool the engine, an intercooler might help. An intercooler did not help my 94 Turbo though, but I was running 15 psi boost, not the stock 8.7. 3-5 mpg loss seems to be what the AWD demands as well.

AWD does lock the front and rear axles together making it harder to lock up the brakes, except when on really slick surfaces such as ice where it makes no difference at all. ABS tracks vehicle speed off of the fastest spinning tire, usually a rear wheel. AWD interferes with this by causing all wheels to lock together, and this makes ABS on AWD less effective. You also want free axles during skid recovery, interlocked axles really complicates skid recovery. Subaru 4EAT AWD will mostly disengage during ABS application to reduce this problem, but the viscous coupled 5MT can not. Subaru introduced the G sensor to its 5MT AWD cars long ago to provide an additional braking force input to the ABS system other than wheel speed. The G-sensor measures the deceleration force and alters the brake pulse to obtain the maximum deceleration. G-Force was introduced on 4EAT AWD cars in 96. Audi's with their American Gleason Torsen center differentials are much better off, since the torsen diff only reacts to driven torque and not braking torque. Quattro virtually shuts off during braking. I went head to head with my neighbours Audi A6 Quattro wagon with identical Michelin Arctic Alpin tires on an frozen lake last year. I had more traction for better acceleration and powered maneouvers, but the Audi solidly beat me in braking distance and maneouvering under braking. We switched cars and the results where the same. The Audi stopped some 10 m (~30 ft) shorter than my Outback from 50 kph (30mph), 10m = 2 car lengths. I like to say that AWD is a safety advantage that you should keep in your back pocket, if you find yourself using it, it has ceased to become a safety advantage and you are just pushing your luck.

No special tools required, but you will need the following: 5" bench vise to compress the timing belt tensioner for reinstallation feeler gauges to adjust the valve lifters sometimes a chainwrench is required to take the crank pulley off, but you can lock the flywheel in place to do this most of the time The water pump, cam and crank seals should all be done at 100,000 miles, as should the valve cover seals when the valve covers are removed to adjust the lifters. Do not skip changing the oil seals or water pump. I would also change the thermostat and its gasket as well as the radiator pressure cap. I would also heavily consider replacing the upper and lower radiator hoses and the heater hoses. The job is not too hard, but I recommend that you have better than moderate mechanical ability as it is significantly more difficult than changing oil and sparkplugs. The Haynes/Chilton guides leave a lot of information out, so solid mechanical knowledge must fill in these gaps.

The EJ22T block is pretty solid, but they do blow head gaskets from time to time, typically if not always run on the mandatory 91 octane fuel. The 93 is 10-11 years old so keep money aside for a head gasket. The turbo wagons only came with 4EAT. These 4EAT's are stronger than the non-turbo model, but still suffer from the occasional torque convertor failure. By 93 Subaru had figured out most of the transmission problems (except torque bind), so the failures are not too common. You are dealing with an 10-11 year old car though. I had a 94 Turbo wagon into which I installed a 5MT transmission, it was an easy job and if your 4EAT goes I recommend considering this conversion. The turbo is generally reliable unless abused, the good news is that properly rebuilt turbos can be had for as little as $400 for this car. Check maintainance records for the scheduled oil and coolant changes since the turbo is fed with both oil and coolant in this car. Some turbos go for 300,000+ km, while others just barely sneak out of the warranty period, turbo life is generally related to how they are treated. You can add an intercooler (and I recommend it), you may need is some custom intake tubing which is not that hard to come by. MRT has intercoolers that will bolt right on, but in general most Subaru intercoolers will fit. You will loose a bit of boost with an intercooler, but you will gain reliability and perhaps more power in hot weather. The EJ22T block will easily do 300+ HP, it is very rugged closed deck block very similar to the one used in the 350hp (280hp officially) Impreza STi 22b. A very reliable low turbo lag 240 hp setup is easily done with the addition of an intercooler, electronic boost control, updated wastegate and blow-off valve, upgraded fuel pump and injectors, and a slightly bigger turbo, all of which can be installed for about $1500. The stock 4EAT transmission will only handle about 200 hp though. The 5MT non-turbo Legacy transmission that I used ran very well for 100,000+ km with 255 hp. The major issue with the Turbo Legacy is fuel economy, it is totally pathetic, often around 15-17mpg.

I did an emergency repair to an older one piece Y pipe/cat that involved cutting the rear outlet pipe, punching out the catalyst material and then reconnecting the rear outlet pipe with a clamp. It allowed the car to run while I awaited a replacement, but it did not run well. In addition to not running well, running without a catalytic convertor is illegal. All of the alternatives that I know of are from North American suppliers and are generally not good quality products. MRT in Australia has some good aftermarket performance exhausts and cats and the cost is likely less than a new Subaru part, but it may not be what you are looking for. I would check with a non-dealer Subaru mechanic in your area, if a local aftermarket part exists he should know about it. Your best route is most likely to secure one from a scrapyard. Even though your cat was old and near or past the end of its normal service life (13 yrs is old), you should determine if any of the following problems contributed to the cat failure: * burning oil (oil will not completely burn until the cat burns it, and this clogs the cat) (how is your oil level) * rich air/fuel mixture (like oil, the cat will burn the unburnt gas and cause the cat to overheat and plug) Along with the cat I would change the oxygen sensor unless it is new. A correctly functioning oxygen sensor should keep the A/F ratio within range and protect the cat and keep emmisions low.

I note that your intake, belt guards, and engine decorative cover are all nice and shiny. Be careful to not use any product like Armour All since it contains chemicals that will harm the oxygen sensor if these substances are breathed into the engine. Silicone is one of the substances that even in extremely small quantities destroy an oxygen sensor. I have replaced several oxygen sensors that mysteriously failed not long after an engine detailing.

To do this type of work I usually park one side on top of a curb or median (the higher, the better) which will then give me enough clearance to crawl under. I am slim so this is not too hard to do. No jacks, no stands and no danger. The reverse switch sticks out of the left side of the transmission case, it should be the only electrical item on the 5MT. Park the car on a curb, leave it in reverse with the key in the "on" position, and then do a continuity test on the switch.

$150-350 depending on the shop to tint the windows. Make sure the shop has the large tint roll to do the rear window with a single sheet. Some shops will have an automated tint film cutting machine, these shops will likely do the best job, but they also tend to charge the most. For roof racks you have options, see my link: Subaru roof rack options