alias20035

Your south of the equator, things are reverse down there! Your readings seem to be fine, my Haynes manual is reversed as well.

I would avoid powerchipping any Subaru. Subarus tend to run very badly with them, and the power gains are simply not worth it. Your best bang for the buck solution is to simply get the turbo spooling up quicker. Just getting the turbo to spool up quicker will make the car feel like it has a lot more power even though it does not. MRT Performance of Australia has some really good exhaust products. Their front pipe with their redesigned turbo inlet is superb at improving spool up! Go to their site, register and get their catalog (as a PDF). MRT parts are available at many dealers in North America, and most will stock the turbo inlet for your WRX. After the exhaust system, I would also consider a larger and more freely flowing intercooler, and perhaps an intake. Only once the exhaust and intercooler have been taken car off would I move on to change things like the blow off valve, waste gate, fuel controller, etc. As torxxx mentioned, if you want to get better than 250hp you will need to change the transmission, the stock WRX transmission is just barely strong enough for 227hp, and leaves little headroom for power enhancements. By reducing the turbo spool up time you will get much better performance without additional power, so no other modifications such as fuel controller and transmission will be required.

A few Phase I's seem to never blow head gaskets, but all of my friend's with the Phase I have had head gaskets let go between 80,000 and 180,000 km. We are all in Canada, where the harsh winters put an enormous amount of stress on the head gaskets. Starting an engine at -30 C is really hard on all engine components, especially the cooling and lubrication system. Given the low cylinder compression I would guess the following: * pressure test not properly done (125 is way too low for a good cylinder, I usually get 180-200) * badly blown head gasket (should be easy to spot bubbles in the coolant, exhaust gas in coolant, overheating and the other common head gasket symptoms though) * badly worn or broken piston rings (but 70 PSI is really low for just bad rings) * bad valve (I have seen one phase I missing 3/4 of one exhaust valve, the compression pressure was under 50 PSI). * hole in the piston (seen this on non-turbo Subaru's that have been turbocharged) * if you have a head gasket failure and coolant gets into the cylinder it will essentially clean the cylinder and rings and you will loose the pressure seal, sometimes this leads to excessive ring/cylinder wear and new rings are required to compensate. I would do a cooling system test and test the coolant for hydrocarbons. If the pressure is really 70psi due to a bad head gasket, a pressure test and hydrocarbon test SHOULD confirm it. If the cooling system pressure and hydrocarbon test are unrevealing, I would have the compression test reperformed, and repeated with oil in the cylinder to check for bad rings, as others have noted. If the pressure still comes up low, regardless of what the problem is the head will have to come off. So it would be safe to say that the head gasket has failed even though it may not have, since in any case removing the head will require the installation of a new gasket. Your spark plug wire is probably stuck because oil has gotten into the spark plug hole in the head and degraded the rubber spark plug boot causing it to glue itself in place. Sometimes the boot/wire has to be cut out. You likely need new valve cover seals (its not the cause of your main problem though, just another thing to change). BTW: I just came across my first internally blown phase II head gasket, but it looks like it had the common external left side coolant leak first, lost a lot of coolant and blew the right gasket. The right head is warped, and possibly beyond repair. Owner was panicked until he realised that Subaru's engine warranty is 5yrs/100,000km unlike the big three.

If your caster is even a bit off, the Legacy can develop serious over or understeer problems, as well as tracking problems. The Legacy is really sensitive in this manner, far more so than the Impreza. Higher mileage Legacy's (200,000+ miles) will often need replacment control arm bushings to correct incorrect caster. The Legacy has front camber and toe adjustment, but no adjustment for caster (most cars don't), so if the caster is out of whack with good struts and springs the control arm, its bushings, the front crossmember or the vehicle body is out of whack. The problem can also occur on the back end as well, rear toe misalignment can do some really strange things, especially since Subaru's are designed to turn the wheel inward when the rear strut is compressed. This is Subaru's passive rear wheel steering system, in a hard left turn, the right rear wheel will turn left as well to try to prevent the back end from spinning out. If your rear toe is out, you may get too much or too little of this effect. The rear wheel steering is controlled by the vehicle roll angle, most cars with independant rear suspension now incorporate this type of system. The inner bolt on the rear transverse link has a tow adjustment bolt on the rear suspension. Bushings are often damaged when the rear bearing is changed since many mechanics will torch off the lower knuckle nut. Since the Impreza has a shorter wheelbase it is less sensitive to rear toe misalignment. When doing wheel alignements on Subaru's I always recommend that they lift the car off of its wheels to unload the suspension and then drop it and recheck the alignment, if the alignment remains correct the bushings are usually (but not always) ok.

TPS problems include: * idle speed way off or fluctuating * engine not accelerating properly (sluggish or not smooth) * engine knocking (due to too lean air/fuel ratio) * black exhaust (due to too rich air/fuel ratio) * other miscellaneous issues The TPS measures how open the throttle is, which is in effect measuring what your foot does on the gas pedal. If defective or incorrectly adjusted it may not know when the engine should idle (throttle closed), and not read your accelerator pedal inputs to know when to increase/decrease fuel flow. With a defective TPS the ECU must use the Mass Air Flow (MAF)/ Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) and oxygen sensor to set the proper air/fuel ratio, but since these sensors do not provide the immediate readings that a TPS would, the engine response will seem delayed. The engine will not increase power output immediately when you press the accelerator, and it may also not reduce power immediately when you back off the throttle a bit. If the sensor is improperly adjusted, your engine may not idle properly, or may be in idle mode for some of the early open throttle position, and you may not get the full open throttle (FOT) condition for maximum power output. The best way to test the TPS is by plugging in an advanced diagnostic device which can display the TPS reading as you press and release the accelerator. The diagnostic device will also indicate when the TPS indicates idle mode. You want to see the TPS read idle at the proper time, and not early or late in the pedal travel, and also the TPS should read a smooth increase throughout the pedal travel range, and also read a FOT condition when the accerator is just about fully depressed (FOT occurs a bit before the pedal hits the floor). You should not have the engine running when testing and adjusting the TPS (its not required).

There is a huge Russian organized crime ring stealing luxury cars AND Subaru SVX/WRX models. There is a huge demand for stolen Subaru's in Russia. At least 20 WRX/SVX's have been stolen in the last two weeks in Montreal and Toronto. Also dissappearing are a lot of SVX and WRX parts from scrapyards, and accidented cars are bought at insurance auction and sent to Russia as well. If you are in Quebec-Windsor corridor or in the Ottawa area and have your SVX or WRX stolen you are not likely to see it ever again. Within 48 hours of being stolen it is in a container in the port of Montreal heading to Russia. It is a steal to order system, likely one Russian mafia got an SVX and others now want one too, and the orders are out. We don't have vehicle tracking systems in Canada and alarms are way too easy to hack into (especially the peice of crap Subaru one). The only good anti-theft device is the Autolock device which locks the brake or clutch pedal. It is the only device that can virtually guarantee that the car CAN NOT be stolen in the first place.

I am not sure what the Baja's resale value will do down the road. Older discontinued Subaru models such as the SVX and Brat seem to have quite a following and very reasonable resale values. The tailgate does not have a lock. Subaru was supposed to develop a lock kit to go along with a bed cover/cargo area box, but I think that plan was dropped when the Baja's failed to sell. One major problem with the Baja is the box length, its too short for even mountain bikes with the front wheels off, you have to lower the tailgate. But if they made the Baja even longer it would be require a complete redesign, and have a huge turning radius. A two door Baja with some room (perhaps 18 inches) behind the seats and a longer bed might be an ideal vehicle for outdoor enthusiasts that do not need seating for four. The Baja has been discontinued, 2004 will be the last year of it. They are heavily discounted (up to $7,000 off in Canada) since most dealers are stuck with loads of them. The forthcoming Baja turbo should sell very quickly, but it will be available in very limited quantities. The Baja Turbo has the same engine as the Forester XT.

You have to drill to install every wing that I know of. Double sided tape will stick really good, so good in fact it will tear the paint off the metal, which is why you have to drill... Atomic Robot: For the hood deflector, be sure to mount the rubber bumpers directly to the hood and not the underside of the deflector. If the rubber bumpers are attached to the deflector they will rub the hood scratching the paint, in some cases completely removing the paint causing rust. The instructions indicate this, but who follows them? Most dealer installed deflectors that I have seen have the rubber bumpers on the deflector which is wrong. The Subaru deflector includes a paper template which you tape to the hood temporarily, you then install the rubber bumpers to the locations where the paper template has a hole. Also use the rubber/plastic tape to protect the front hood edges where the deflector wraps underneath.

Rather odd of Nissan, considering their new Pathfinder and Pathfinder Armada are full time 4WD (they even go so far as to call it AWD in some literature). They are also developing an AWD Infinity G35. And what about their fabulous Skyline GTR which is AWD (and not available outside of Japan:boohoo:). Given that I am from Canada and drive between 5 and 8 months on snow and ice covered roads, I find AWD to be a very nice thing to have, and in some cases it is absolutely essential. I find that the biggest benefit of AWD is the predictability that it affords in low traction situations, while its downside is causing the driver to be overconfident leading him/her to drive at a higher and often dangerous speed. AWD will not help braking, nor will it provide any safety advantage to the average driver above 30 MPH or so. The average driver lacks the skill to recover from a skid or perform an emergency manouever above 30MPH regardless of having AWD or not, I have taken several advanced driving courses, and even knowing the proper technique I still have trouble above 30mph. In some cases AWD can make a bad situation worse, since it can cause understeer due to the interlocked axles causing many emergency driving techniques to be less effective. Not generally an issue below 30MPH though, unless on ice. Since I usually need AWD in low speed "snowplowing" or climbing an icy or hardpack snow hill, I find it to be a great asset. Since I do have the 5MT I find that I can better control the car in slippery conditions using engine braking, if the car begins to swerve I just tap the throttle to pull it straight. I also have four wheel drift and powerslide turns mastered.

Possible causes: * thermostat stuck open <- engine will take forever to warm up, and on cold days it never will. With a normally hot engine, the air from the vents at low fan speed should be unbearably hot after 10-15 seconds or so with a hand placed directly against the vent. * coolant temp sensor <- common problem * stuck radiator fan temp switch/relay <- less common problem * radiator pressure cap * air in the cooling system <- If none of the above, I would drain the cooling system from the radiator drain (back lower left of rad, looks like a wing nut in most cases) into a clean container and pour it back into the radiator using a funnel with a coffee filter to prevent any solid particles from entering the system. On the 93 Legacy I would raise the front of the car slightly and open the radiator bleed valve (top left of rad opposite to pressure cap). Also pour the coolant in very slowly, I take 20 minutes or more to add the full 6 or so litres of coolant that the Legacy requires (use a small cup to pour). IAC will cause cutting out, but not cold running, so fix the cold running first. Cold running will cause cutting out and misfires which will lead to very rough running! If your temp sensor is gone, the ECU may think the engine is hot (when it is not), and run a hot air/fuel mixture when a cold one is required. The second fan should come on only when the A/C compressor is running (perhaps the ECU will trigger this fan too when the engine is really hot or with a bad temp sensor), does the second fan (right one when looking from front) run when your climate control in the "Vent" position? With a low heat, fan constantly running, and rough running, you likely have a double failure of both the thermostat and the temperature sensor. With the engine off and cold, you can remove the radiator cap and start the engine, if coolant overflows the thermostat is stuck open. When the thermostat is open and the radiator cap is off, some of the coolant will take the path of least resistance and come out of the radiator fill. If the thermostat is closed, no coolant should overflow. Some cars will not overflow with an open thermostat, but Subaru's seem to do this, which is gives us an easy test for a stuck open thermostat. By overflow, I mean any amount small or large, if the thermostat is closed (thus working correctly) with the correct coolant level it will not overflow at all. What do you mean by cutting out? Are your RPMS at idle erratic? Are the RPMS falling to 300 or so almost stalling and then jumping to 1500-2000 RPM? Does your cutting out problem go away if you open the throttle slighty? If all of the above are true, the IAC could be the cause, but fix the cold running first! The IAC is a Subaru dealer only part (as far as I know). Try 1stsubaruparts.com, but again fix the cold running first!

The problems you will experience with the AWD system will be either torque bind or no/little power on the rear axle. First things first though, get four new identical tires on the car, and get that FWD fuse in until you get the new tires. Torque bind occurs when the AWD system does not allow slippage between the front and rear axle. In turns the rear axle always turns at a slower rate than the front axle, if the AWD system has a torque bind problem you will note a rumble, vibration or braking effect in low/medium speed tight turns. This effect is identical to what happens when you do tight turns on pavement with a shift on the fly four wheel drive vehicle. 4x4's have no center differential or other provision to release torque bind like Subaru does. If the clutch pack is worn out you will get delayed power transfer to the rear axle or way too little power transfer. In snow and ice the power transfer to the rear axle should be seemless, if you feel the rear axle kick in this is a delayed power transfer and usually indicates that something is wrong with the AWD system, in most cases you should not feel the power transfer. Also if you are able to spin the front tires only, there is probably no or little power transfer to the rear axle. Subaru's will spin tires, but it should be a maximum of one tire per axle (one front tire and one rear, not both fronts). Subaru's automatic transmission system sends power to the rear axle during acceleration regardless of traction conditions, it does not wait for the front wheels to spin like the Honda CRV and Element. Subaru designed their system so that the power would be at the correct wheels to prevent wheel slip in the first place, and is one of the very few AWD systems to do so. Subaru's AWD system is "precautionary" while most of the others are "reactionary".

I have used regular Prestone coolant for over 10 years, and better than 800,000 km in my 4 Subaru's. I change the coolant about every 2 years or 50,000 km and always do several flush cycles with water only. I have never noted any sludge buildup in the cooling system. I have seen Subaru coolant that is made in the US, Canada and Japan, but I believe most of it is now from Canada for us Canadians, and from the US for you yanks. According to the article earlier in this thread, US coolant and Japan coolant is essentially compatible, with a higher silicate content in US coolant that could be detrimental to water pump seals (but not newer seals?). I have not encountered any low mileage water pumps with leaking seals regardless of which coolant is used. My only cooling system problems (non regular maintainence) were: * one small coolant hose on my carburator on my 85 GL burst, most EA81/2 owners will have experienced this failure. * 85 GL water pump catestrophically failed (pulley came loose, causing pump to wobble and fail) * 85 GL, corrosion on exterior of radiator, causing fins to separate from the tubes causing overheating (it was 12 years old) * 93 Legacy - water pump developed a leak at about 250,000km * radiator cap suddenly failed on my 93 Legacy, causing the engine to suddenly overheat and blow out most of the coolant through the overflow tank * lost about 1 litre of the original coolant over one month in my 01 Outback. Not sure where the coolant went, there were no detectable head gasket problems, nor any sign of a coolant leak. I changed the original coolant about 12,000 km ago, and thus far I have not lost any. Subaru is in trouble in the European market, as the EC is trying to push for extended service intervals for oil and other fluids. Subaru has just switched to synthetic oil and 30,000 km oil change intervals in some European countries, but coolant remains a 30 month/50,000 km item. Perhaps it is due to the fact that most Subaru engines pump the coolant top to bottom, which is reverse of most other engines out there, and that also with a horizontal engine, some coolant can sit and boil in the nooks and crannies of the water jacket. A better reason might be that Subaru lacks the resources to devote a research team to study the long term issues (if any) of the newer coolants out there on the alloys and seal materials that Subaru uses. Hopefully some knowledge transfer from GM will help out Subaru in this and other areas, although GM is known for some disasterous ideas... So far GM has kept their hands off Subaru, with most technology going from GM to Subaru such as hydroforming, and from Subaru to GM in the form of the forthcoming Saab 9-2 (a Saab'd Impreza), a forthcoming Chevy/Subaru compact pick up and rumours of a new Subaru developed GM minivan. I will stick to Prestone because I have had no problems with it and I like to go with what I know. I think the flushing and coolant replacement cycle every 30,000 miles (50,000km) is one of the most important items to do. The coolant will loose its protective ability, and also start to become corrosive over time, and the regular change will prevent this from becoming an issue. Please take the used coolant and the water used for the first two flush cycles into a recycling/hazardous waste disposal facilty. Subsequent flushing cycles should contain very little coolant and should be safe to pour down the drain (not the storm sewer though, the drain in your house that goes to a treatment plant). FYI: I usually use a pump to suck out the water from the heater core, and remove the freeze plugs/block heater to get all of the flushing water out before adding new coolant. But even then more than a litre of water seems to remain in the system, so I pour in a 70% coolant mixture until I get 3.3-3.5 litres of coolant in. The system takes about 6 litres total, so with 3.3 litres of coolant I get about a 55%-60% ratio. I fill the rad slowly with the car level, and then raise the front end to help eliminate trapped air in the heater core.

I slammed the door of my 93 Legacy on my hand once, I happened to have my hand on the part of the rear door that extends past the edge of the window. I re-broke my finger that I had broken 6 weeks earlier mountain biking. Not only did I break my finger, but I also required help to free myself. On the 93 Legacy there is no unlock switch on the passenger's side front door (the lock/unlock is keyed to the drivers door lock), and I happened to get my hand stuck on the passenger's side rear door. I did note that my 01 Outback has more foam rubber on the seal of this area of the door than my 93 Legacy, so perhaps this was an issue.

The limited just adds a few items such as: dual moon roof (not all Limited models though) leather interior 8 speaker audio with CD player or changer (varies though) Two extra tweeters are on the D pillars at the very back in the cargo area. power radio antenae different paint colors Color keyed mirrors and door handles Gold trim on alloy wheels Leather seats are good for durability if cared for, they have the advantage of being mostly stain resistant. Leather shampoo and treatment twice (or more) per year is a good idea. If you have a power antenae, be sure to clean and lubricate it often, especially in winter. They tend to jam. Some of the 98/99 Legacy's had integrated antenaes in the the rear side glass, there are good! The front moonroof has been known to shatter on occasion, sometimes Subaru will replace it at no cost because the glass is sometimes incorrectly manufactured. It usually shatters on its own on very hot days. Occasionally it will shatter due to stone chips. Being from Canada I have seen quite a few that have been broken by stones that were dropped on the roads to aid traction in winter. The Limited models are mechanically identical to the standard model. Because the Limited cost more initially to purchase, there is a better chance that the previous owner spent the money to properly maintain it. In general better maintained used cars started out as more expensive new cars. At 72,000 miles the engine is likely had its head gasket failure or is due for one. The 99 has the redesigned 4EAT transmission which is far less troublesome in terms of torque bind. Check the driver's side of transmission, there should be a spin off fluid filter, if so this is the newer "good" transmission.

With that substantial of a tire size difference, the odds are that you have done substantial damage to the AWD system. I would expect there to be noticable problems now or shortly in the future. All four tires MUST be the same make, model and size, and be properly inflated on EVERY four wheel and all wheel drive vehicle. I would not use 205/70-14, they are too big. The sizes that can be used are: 185/70-14 - this is the stock size for 14" rims 195/65-14 - acceptable size for more treadwidth on 14" rims, but not stock 195/60-15 - this is the stock size for 15" rims 205/55-16 - this is the stock size for 16" rims I recommend four new 185/70-14 tires, you CAN NOT just buy two more to match, because your two existing 185/70-14 tires are worn and the new ones will be larger. The 185/70-14 should be the standard tire size which is indicated on the information plate on the drivers door B pillar. How did you end up with two different tire sizes to begin with? Most tire shops are smart enough to not install different tire sizes on AWD cars.

Idle sensor?? Never heard of one of those.... Could it be the throttle position sensor, which will detect a closed throttle idle situation? Some cars do have a separate switch to detect closed throttle, but not Subaru EJ series engines. The ECU is pretty good at identifying the crank sensor problem. The crank sensor (along with the cam sensors) controls fuel injection and spark timing, so it is rather important that it be replaced promptly. Did the dealer download the codes? I would reset the ECU (with the code reader) and see if the codes return. If the crank sensor is bad the ECU should detect it in a very short period of time.

Most double din units are not the best quality. Its really a shame that no one makes a really good double din unit. I would love to have a double DIN equivalent of my Sony Mobile ES CDX-C90! It's really complicated adjusting my XDP-4000x DSP with that tiny display and few buttons. My radio/speaker installation guide is here: http://www.geocities.com/subaruownercgy/subsections/guides/g3_audio_guide.html Follow the link to a PDF document.

Great photos... Thats quite a break, and something that a metals expert should look at first hand. I would guess manufacturing defect, but as I said in an earlier reply a "jammed" sway bar will stress one side causing it to act more like a suspension spring than a sway bar and lead to this type of failure in exactely this location. Sway bars are made of spring steel just like coil springs which have a very low failure rate. Sway bars receive a fair bit more torsional force though. I have only seen this one other time, and that was on a rally car that had a coil spring fail, causing one side of the cars load to be transferred to the other through the sway bar. The car finished the stage with one front corner on the ground, the crew changed the hole A-arm/axle/strut assembly and sway bar in under 5 minutes!! Unfortunately I had to treat one of the mechanics for second degree burns after he accidentely grabbed the hot brake rotor. Broken ends where the end link connects is a more common point of failure, but even that is rare.

About $400 Canadian last time I looked in 97. I cleaned mine and my stalling problems disappeared. Does your car run ok with the throttle very slightly open? If so the IAC is likely to be the culprit, but also read further up in this thread to elimate the AC as a cause, and other potential culprits as well.

The 00-04 Legacy/Outbacl will take single DIN, double DIN and even triple DIN. If you have a factory double DIN radio and want to install an aftermarket single DIN radio, you will need to get a storage bin (covered or open) to fill in the extra space. If upgrading from single DIN to double DIN you need to remove one of the storage bins, you can choose to loose either the covered or uncovered one. Many WRX and Forester owners are selling there Subaru 6 disc in dash CD changers one ebay for as little as $100. It is double DIN and plugs right into your outback. Note that some of these units have cassette, while others do not and some have an all black face while others have a grey/silver face. Your 00 Outback should have the single DIN AM/FM/WB/Cassette unit. This unit will connect to either a single disc in dash CD player or a 6 cd changer from Subaru, but these units are expensive. The used ones on ebay can be a really good deal.

Ice buildup will not likely cause this, nor will a bad sensor. It is a pump or wiring issue. The Bosch ABS pump is known to do this on occasion, and the only solution is to replace it. We'll cross our fingers that this was a freak occurence. If it happens again I would pull the ABS fuse out to prevent further damage to the system. With the fuse out your brakes will still work, but without ABS function. I would test your ABS on a slippery road and see if the pump works correctly and then shuts down once the car stops. If it stays running after the vehicle stops the pump relay is sticking and you likely need a new pump. The pump is directly connected to the battery system, it is not connected to the key, which is why the pump ran with your key out. When ABS function is needed the brake control module will activate the pump and trigger the required valves to release and reapply each individual brake. The control module is only powered up when the key is in the "On" position, which is why this problem is probably isolated to the pump, or its wiring. The ABS system will display codes to indicate a pump problem, sensor problem, etc. You should have these codes read the next time this occurs. Another big thing to check is the brake fluid level, and to check to see if there is any air trapped in the brake system. Sometimes a brake job will force air or dirt back into the ABS pump causing problems. I would do a brake bleed to eliminate air in the brake lines as a possibility.

Subaru will perform one free wheel alignment in the first year or 12000 miles (or 20,000 km in Canada)!!! Check your warranty and service book. This is a little known but TRUE fact. Wheel alignment is not always correct from the factory, and it can be knocked out quite easily in transit. It is absolutely essential that you regularly rotate your tires for even wear which will mean even circumference. Subaru's tend to wear out the rear tires a little more than the fronts.

Tinting film is applied to the inside of the glass, and these pads will scratch the tint film quite badly. The felt pad can be replaced with the glass in place, just be careful not to drop it inside the door during removal/installation. I remove my felt pads every spring and clean them, and in some cases replace them if I feel they are worn out or beyond cleanable.

Frameless window pros: * better visability * lighter door weight (better reliability and safety) * door less likely to jam as the result of an accident (safety) * stronger roof (safety) Frameless window cons: * even a minor window misaligment causes wind noise (but some framed window designs are no good such as the 94-00 Honda Civic and have substantial windnoise all the time) * can freeze shut (but framed doors do as well, and in some cases a lot worse than Subaru's) I just wish Subaru would use thicker glass and have a stiffer mechanism to hold the window in place, and eliminate the "window down door closing rattle". The Hyundai XG350 also has frameless windows, and they do not rattle, I am sure Subaru could fix this. All in all I have had far fewer problems with Subaru's frameless windows than on most GM vehicles with framed windows. For your freezing problem, apply silicone spray lubricant to a paper towel and apply it to the door and window seal. It will help with the ice problem a lot. There are also silicone sticks and other chemicals that will work well. See this post: http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=8092

It feels like my winter tires on steel rims for my 01 Outback weigh about 20lbs more than the alloy wheels with their all season tires. Also when the steel wheels/winter tires are on, the steering is much heavier, and the car rides a lot rougher, part of this is because of the tire design , but I think the weight plays a more significant role.