alias20035

For CD changers it is recommended that you go to eBay and pick up a used 6 disc in dash changer unit from a WRX or Forester. They often sell for less than $100 and plug right in. Fm modulated CD changers sound like crap...... The FM tuner in the radio has a very limited frequency response and very poor stereo separation. The CD tape deck interface is not much better.

I am not sure why everyone is harping on the fit and finish of the Legacy, I find my Outback to be very well assembled.... at least as well if not better than my Gunma Japan manufactured 1985 GL wagon and 1993 Legacy wagon. That said the 2005 I drove had a fabulous interior, and the best fit and finish I have ever seen (I would say even better than my friends Lexus IS). Until I drove the 2005 I thought the Mazda 6 and RX8 had the nicest centre console layout out there, but my opinion has now changed. My only concern is that deployment of the passenger side airbag now requires a whole new dash cover, since there is no separate air bag panel.

It is easier to apply window film to windows that are out. But the time and effort you save in tinting is replaced with the agravation of removing windows and then reinstalling and aligning them properly, so I would not do it. The Civic may not have any "alignment" issues like the Sube does, so in your friends case it may have been the right thing to do. Heed my cleaning and use of destilled water notes, they will help. I forget to mention that if you plan on doing the rear curved glass yourself, I would not. Two sheets of tinting film are required and doing curves is very difficult, and you can also damage the rear window defroster quite easily with the film cutting tools (razor blade). I would not apply the film in cold temperatures, at least not below 10 Celsius (got a garage and heater?). Window film does not "adhere" to the glass, it uses microsuction pores and "static cling".

When my pressure cap went, I lost three out of six litres of coolant, and first noted a fluctuating temperature gauge (it went up, then down, then way up at which point I pulled over). Every mechanic I spoke to indicated that the head gasket was gone, but no pressure test (cooling system and cylinder) or hydrocarbon test could find it. I put in a new thermostat and pressure cap (and coolant) and the car was fine for many more years until I totalled it. I would change the cap and monitor the car carefully for a few days (or weeks) and see what happens. The EJ25 DOHC does not develop small head gasket leaks, it develops big ones!!! Or small ones that develop into big ones in short order. Since his pressure test and hydrocarbon test is unrevealing you have to go on the assumption that the head gaskets are good until proven otherwise and look at items such as water pump, thermostat and pressure cap. I indicated pressure cap because I had the EXACT same problem on on my Legacy, and my friends 97 Outback did the same thing but in his case he had the head gaskets changed and it turned out that they appeared to be good, the mechanic later determined the pressure cap was bad and as a result he was not charged for the head gaskets. As for the item Cookie mentions: 1 New radiator unless it is excellent. - Subaru radiators now last 10+ years, check to see if the fins have separated from the coolant tubes, most likely not. 2 Head gaskets - pressure test and hydrocarbon test not revealing, so assume they are ok until proven otherwise 3 New hoses - at 5 years of age you are due for new hoses as a precautionary step, but they are not cause of this problem 4 Thermostat - could be bad, change it 5 cap if not new - could be bad, chane it I will add water pump, check it for leaks. In general the water pump will last between 1.5 and 2 timing belt cycles (60,000-120,000 miles). Often the pump is changed even if good during a timing belt change since it is relatively inexpensive.

I assume you mean the two bolts that are on the back of the control arm going into the body of the car, and the one bolt that holds the front of the control arm to the crossmember. If so that will also work, but these bolts can be difficult to remove (like the axle nut), but likely easier than popping that darn ball joint. I find that coating the ball joint "rod" in anti seize really helps future disassembly jobs. I also can change an axle without taking the tie rod off, just the ball joint. Just use threadlock on these bolts and nuts when reassembling. At 190,000 km the ball joints are gone unless replaced and the front wheel bearings are near or past the usual failing point. If this is the case, he might as well stick to the ball joint method, or leave it to a mechanic.

I got rebuilt CV's from Canadian Tire for my Legacy, and they were cheap (like $85 in 1997 after core return). They lasted over 140,000 km (at which point I wrecked the car). Subaru has recently lowered their cost of CV joints so check with your dealer. Replacing a CV is not overly hard to do. I suggest getting the latest Haynes service manual for assistance. You need the following tools and parts * liquid wrench penetrating oil * 1/2 drive torque wrench * 1/2 drive breaker bar * 1/2 drive 32mm socket * wrench for the tie rod nut (17 or 19mm?) * tie rod separator tool (either a fork (which can damage the ball joint (be careful) or a tool that clamps to the control arm and a threaded bolt pushs the tie rod out (best tool)). * small punch to knock the DOJ joint transmission outdrive pin out * hammer (for the above punch) * hub tamer or big puller to push axle out of hub (usually not required) * replacement CV joint * replacement axle nut (DO NOT REUSE the old one) * replacement cotter pin for the ball joint nut Step 1: spray the axle nut, tie rod nut and DOJ pin with penetrating oil once a day for a few days before the work is to be done. Step 2: using the 32 mm socket and breaker pull remove the axle nut (this is difficult) (you should use a hardened impact wrench socket, I have seen regular ones shatter) Step 3: remove the cotter pin and tie rod nut. Step 4: using the tie rod removal tool, remove the ball joint from the lower control arm Step 5: remove the pin from the inner CV joint. Step 6: with the lower ball joint loose you should be able to pull the inner DOJ joint off the transmission outdrive. Step 7: re install the ball joint temporarily Step 8: use a hub tamer or big puller to push the CV axle out of the hub. Sometimes you can reinstall the axle nut loosely to protect the axle threads and hammer the axle gently loose. If using a hub tamer or puller the brake rotors and brake shield have to come off. Step 9: pull the axle from the hub Reverse for installation of new axle. While you are at it I suggest the following work (since at 190,000 km you are likely due for it): replace front wheel bearings (or if recently done, replace the inner bearing seals (they seal against the CV joint)). If using new bearings you MUST clean and repack the new bearing with proper bearing grease, the clear grease that it is shipped with is unsuitable. replace the ball joints (again if not recently done) While this is a relitively easy job (at least I now find it to be), the first time you do it is usually quite gruesome when it comes to removing the axle nut and tie rod from the control arm. Where in Canada are you? I know a few mechanics that work for a more reasonable cost in Montreal, Calgary and Vancouver. The CV joint replacement work on Subaru's is similar to all front wheel drive cars, so it is unlikely that your corner mechanic can screw it up. It is the wheel bearings that can be difficult without the proper hub tamer or Subaru specific tool.

You should not need to remove the window to perform tinting. You could remove the door panel and that would allow you to easily tint the lower part of the window below the door sill seal (the bottom 1/2 to 1 inch of the window). Also do not tint the outer edges of the window where it seals, otherwise the friction against the seal when raising or closing the door will cause the window tint film to peal off over time. You will note that professional tinters leave about a half inch of untinted glass around the edge. When the window is closed the seal will hide this untinted edge so it will not be noticed. Window tinting is an aquired skill, it is very difficult for the amateur to get the window tint film to go on cleanly and without air bubbles. The biggest problem is unclean glass. The glass must be cleaned with a high quality cleaner and squigy, and the use of methyl alcohol is recommend for a final cleaning. Also as a lubricant for the tint film application be sure to use destilled water, not tap water as it can leave spots.

1. I will add an Index. 2. As for file size, I will try to reduce the size of the photos and see if that helps. Acrobat sometimes enlarges jpegs. 3. masking tape is a good idea, I will add that I found a web page that describes the process of removing the 4EAT transmission console cover on 95-99 models, I think 3rd gen is similar. I think the console just pops off like the manual transmission model, leaving the "P R N D 3 2 1" plate in place. I do need help with the automatic climate control cars, in particular do they have the control cable from the dash control to the side of the heater core in the passenger side footwell? And do they have any difference in the wiring harnesses (three instead of two for instance)? There are only two screws to come off on the door panel, the one in the arm rest (page 11) and the on hidden by the door switch assembly. The screw in the door handle holds the handle to the door, but if you take the door handle trim ring off, it will allow the door panel to come off with this screw in place. The only reason to take the door handle screw out would be if you did NOT have a removable trim ring (only if Subaru changed to a one peice design??). I have worked on both 2001 and 2003 Outbacks, and in both cases this screw stayed in place, and the trim ring came off.

The Subaru bearings take a lot more stress that those of non AWD cars, but in general you can get a good lifespan out of them (I got 200,000+km on one occassion) . Most repeat failures of bearings are the result of improper installation. Failure to repack the new bearing with the proper grease is the number one cause of repeat failures. Always replace the bearing seals. It is important to use a proper bearing installation tool (Subaru tool, hub tamer, or good press). A new axle nut must be used and torqued with the wheel OFF the ground and parking brake OFF, otherwise it will be set at the wrong torque. Properly torque the wheel lug nuts as well.

Were the TT Legacy's available in NZ aside from Jap imports? I think the answer is yes, but you could confirm. If so you should either order a manual from you local dealer, or better yet try to locate one from a wrecked TT in a scrap yard. I am sure "just a few" TT's have been wrecked..... In addition to fuse spec, it would give you most of the of the information for basic maintainance of the vehicle and its service schedule.

It's not the car... You broke something.... Did you inspect the whole clutch assembly while the engine was out? It is likely that you damaged the throwout or pilot bearing pulling the engine out. The rule of thumb is that you ALWAYs change the clutch and all its parts when the engine is pulled, because the labour is the expensive part. At a minimum change the pilot and release bearing since these two are often damaged when an engine is pulled. Also why did you pull the engine to change a head/valve? The heads come off quite easily with the engine in place. Sure you can do head work easier with the engine out, but you risk doing other damage.....

Hi all, I have created the following PDF which details the installation procedures for the radio and speakers in third generation Legacy/Outback (00-04). 2000-2004 Legacy/Outback Audio System Installation Guide I need some photos and steps for the following items: - removal of the 4EAT center console cover - removal of the control cable (if there is one) and electrical connectors of the climate controlled HVAC system (Outback H6) Also if you could review and post any comments concerning the guide. Thanks

The 1993 or 1994 Subaru Legacy L PW or RW wagon is probably the most reliable Subaru out there, especially with the 5 speed. Automatic Subaru's are quite reliable too, but the AWD torque transfer system has a design flaw that always seems to cause it to fail at around 100,000 miles or so with a torque bind problem. Subaru has a rebuild kit that more or less fixes the problem permanently, so if the rebuild has been done you will not have a problem, otherwise keep $800 aside just in case. The PW has power windows and locks and cruise control The RW adds air conditioning, ABS, cassette player, and rear sway bar 95 and newer Subaru's with the EJ22 (2.2 litre) are quite reliable too, but models earlier than 98 have the very same AWD torque transfer problem as the previous models. The 95 to 99 Legacy L wagon 5 speed is the best buy of the 2nd gen Legacy's. There are some special edition Legacy's in the 95 - 99 time frame that are very well priced and equipped. 10 year old Subaru's can be good deal but avoid one that shows any sign of body rust, since it is like a death sentence because its the rust you can't see that is the problem. Also check the exhaust system for signs of corrosion as Subaru exhausts are some of the most expensive to replace (but they are probably the most durable, usually lasting 10+ yrs or 500,000 miles). Impreza's are also very good, if not a little better in terms of reliability. With the Impreza try to get the EJ22 engine (2.2 litre) not the EJ18 (1.8litre), while both are reliable the EJ18 is not quite powerful enough to overcome the power loss of AWD and does not seem to get better mileage. I would avoid any Subaru with the EJ25 Phase 1 DOHC engine (96-99 Legacy, 98 Impreza). These older EJ25's eat head gaskets for lunch!!! All Subaru's tend to eat rear wheel bearings, the heavier Legacy a little more often than the Impreza. Check for a whine/rumble from the rear wheels, figure on $200 to replace a wheel bearing. If properly replaced the rear wheel bearings last 80-100,000 miles, but I would guess that most are not properly replaced. With all Subaru AWD's insure that all four tires are the same make, model and size, as having one tire slightly off in size will kill the AWD. I would also check the tire pressure to see if it matches the recommended pressure on the drivers side B piller plate. If it is way off (5 or more PSI), walk away as the owner did not take car of his Subaru and you are likely to have problems. Tire pressure MUST be checked on a regular basis on all wheel drive cars to avoid excessive drivetrain wear. Also test drive any Subaru through some sharp low speed and sharp medium speed corners. If the vehicle seems to bind, rumble or feel like the brakes applied (but weren't), then the car likely has the automatic transmission torque bind, or the 5 speeds center viscous coupled diferential has failed. Also note if there is any clacking from the front driveshafts when accelerating through a low speed sharp turn. If clacking is noted one or both front driveshafts need replacement. I would also duck under the car to check for oil leaks (most are minor and cheap to replace (ex, valve cover)), and check the condition of the CV joint boots (all eight of them) for signs of tears or CV joint grease leaking. Note when the car had its timing belt change and if it had its water pump changed. The timing belt has to be changed every 60,000 miles and the water pump lasts anywhere from 90,000 to 120,000 miles. Usually the water pump is changed with the timing belt even if it is good, because it is timing belt driven and a water pump failure is extremely catastrophic (but very rare). If the engine has oil leaks from the timing case and the timing belt is due for a change it is about $160 to change the belt and only an extra $30 or so for the leaking seals. Don't even consider a Subaru with the height adjustable air suspension, they are 100% unreliable and expensive to repair. Many of these older Legacy's with air suspension were converted to conventional springs and struts and if this is the case you have nothing to worry about.

I am sure the "hole" could be plugged somehow, hopefully the standard EJ22 rear cam cover and seal will fit. I am concerned about what holds the distrib in place, surely not just a few bolts, either the distrib has to slide more than an inch into the head, or the camshaft extends out of the head into a bearing within the distrib. If the distributor is just a "passenger" and not doing anything, I would take it off and see if the US EJ22 cam cover will work. Failiing that reinstall the distributor with the form a gasket trick and let it be.

When an EJ25 head gasket goes, it usually goes big time and is quite easy to detect via a pressure test and/or hydrocarbon test. So it looks like you have good head gaskets. I would hedge my bets on the radiator pressure cap. The radiator cap keeps the coolant pressure at 11-15 PSI to raise the coolant boiling point. If it fails the coolant under pressure escapes to the overflow and usually overflows from the overflow. When you lower the pressure of the coolant it can boil and its cooling capability is significantly compromised. The boiling temperature rating of coolant is usually rated at 13 PSI. They do wear out and are generally changed along with the thermostat. The symptoms you describe are exactely like what happened to my 93 Legacy EJ22. I swapped both the thermostat and rad pressure cap, no further problems for 200,000+ km. I don't know which one was bad, but thermostats usually stick in an open or closed state. When they pressure test the cooling system they remove the rad cap to install the test gear, so it is the only thing not tested (other than thermostat).

The above instructions are good and complete!! Spray the hub/disc rotor interface area with penetrating oil. It should help it pop loose. Be careful to not strip the "rotor pull" threads. If your replacing the rotor some gentle persuasion with a hammer before theading the bolts in to pull it off wont hurt (it will destroy the rotor though).

I only have one car, so I have been stuck using my bike to get parts quite often, like the time I knocked over the brake fluid bottle halfway though changing a brake hose.....

You'll have to pull the distributor to get the O ring out. Hopefully the O ring is the same size as the rear cam oil seal on US EJ22 cars. If not you should be able to locate a replacement gasket from the large selection most auto parts stores carry. If it is a cork gasker, you could try "Form a Gasket" or get some gasket making cork and make your own. You should also be able to use "Form a Gasket" to replace an O ring if you can't find one. I can't think of a reason why this would not work. Is the oil leaking from between the distrib and head? Or is it leaking into the distributor and then out of it? If the internal seal on the distributor is gone, you will not be able to find a replacement here in North America.

My 85 GL 5 speed had EGR.... Do the US 5spd EJ25's have EGR??

1990-1994 Canadian Subaru's were all made in Gunma Japan (as far as I know) and they were exceptionally well built (mine was). 1995+ Canadian Legacy/Outbacks are built in Lafayette. All Impreza's and Foresters are built at Gunma, Japan. The Japanese auto plant workers definitely produce a better product than those at SIA in Lafayette, but the difference in not all that signifincant since Subaru has designed the car in such a fashion that it is difficult to make errors during assembly. The only major quality difference that I have noted between Japan and US made cars is related to US sourced components, such as the suspension components that have been recalled on my 01 Outback three times now. Canada will get the 05 Legacy/Outback shortly after the US does, as the Canadian models have some differences and have to be produced in a large batch at SIA. The 05 Subaru Outback H6 I drove was on its way to a Northern Ontario testing facility, my guess is that it was a European left hand drive model with the US market engine and emmisions controls, but US and Euro emmisions are now very close. It appeared to be final product, other than it had a bunch of data logger cables coming out of the ashtray area. Canada has major automotive winter testing facilities in Timmins, Ontario, somewhere in Northern Québec (Témiscaming or Jonquiere?) and Thompson, Manitoba. All of these locations experience arctic like climate conditions and are still relitively easy to get to over the road.

The 93 Turbo Legacy had a different taillight bar... Maybe just a Canada thing though. The 90 and 91 turbo sedan also had different taillights (again maybe a Canadian thing). The third special edition was the "Alpine" edition, and you could be right on the 94 model year only thing. The 94 vehicles were available in May/June of 93 because the redesigned 95 was coming..... There are several issues with the motorized seatbelts: - motor fails / or track jams - position of upper seat belt mount is not adjustable and therefore not optimized for drivers of different heights - most cars (not Subaru's) had the motorized seatbelt attached to the doors, which caused hundreds of deaths since it is a very common occurance for the right side door to come open when the car is hit hard on the left in a "T-bone" accident. The passenger/driver is then partially or completely thrown from the vehicle. This problem also affects all vehicles with manual belts on the doors (late 90's Crown Vics for instance). Seat belts are now required by DOT regulation to be mounted to the vehicle frame or to the seatback. - many drivers fail to use the manual lap belt, which can lead to major throat/thorasic damage in a minor collision and partial or complete decapitation in a moderate to severe collision. The idea of the automatic seatbelts was to force drivers who don't normally wear them to be buckled up, but if you don't use the lap belt you are risking severe injury or death. I like the new plans from NHTSA where there will be occupent sensors in all seats, and until all occupents are belted an alarm will progressively get louder, and not turn off. There is also talk of connecting the system in such a way so the radio will not work until the belt is fastened. New Fords have a very long and loud buckle up alarm. All of this is overkill in Canada where better than 95% of us buckle up all the time, but in some US states the compliance is below 60%. Don't make this a Canada/US thing, I think it just has to do with Canada having seat belt laws 10-15 years earlier than the US and massive education campaigns in the schools, in which I was taught to make a fuss until my parents buckled up. Canada banned the import of vehicles with motorized seatbelts shortly after they came out because of these problems, which forced many Canadian dealers to ship stock back to the US or convert them to manual belts. The only motorized belt Subaru's in Canada were the early SVX's, on which most owners swap to full manual belts when the motors go. It is possible to change Subaru automatic seatbelts to manual ones, you need the roof and B pillar trim and the manual lap/shoulder belt assembly, the upper manual belt mount is still present in the B pillar.

It was in some old magazine from the late 80's describing the design process of the Legacy. My Canadian 93 Legacy (built in Japan) had a cam seal on both sides and many thread holes around it which I am sure would fit timing covers, and pulley assembly. It also had a separate turbo oil and coolant feed. I have seen US EJ22's and they are different, and I think its mainly due to emmisions requirements, which may have nessistated different heads (for EGR for instance). I am fairly positive that my 93 had NO EGR since it did not have any EGR problems in 8 years or 466,000 km, and it also did not have anything like the EGR pictured in the Haynes manual or the one that was present on my US market 85 GL wagon. My 2001 also does not seem to have EGR, unless it is hidden somewhere, it is definitely not on the intake manifold, and there is no additional piping from the lower side of the head like on my 85. In fact when I need a head replaced (replace a US model head with a Canadian model head) on my 85 the EGR pipe had no where to connect to, so the dealer left it loose and disconnected the EGR vacuum line. My 85 then had a permanent "EGR" warning light condition.

You've pretty much covered it... I have driven the forthcoming 2005 model and it is incredible how much better it is over the 00-04 generation. The moonroof is still double and the front one still pops up, but the front sunroof is now smaller and the rear one bigger. It is a substantially improved moonroof design. Fuel economy apparently jumps from 36 to 42 MPIG (imperial gallons) on the highway. All 05 models will be ULEV or SULEV as well The new exhaust note due to the crossed headers is awesome, although it will be hard to identify a Subaru by its sound when blindfolded. The sportshift 5EAT has virtually no lag in fully automatic mode, and when in manual mode the safetys are not overly obtrusive (since I had the engine about 300 RPM past red line). Subaru design the 00-04 models to match Toyota/Honda and for the most part succeeded. The 05 model (04 everywhere else in the world) set its sights on BMW, and from my perspective it beats it in almost everyway. While the new Legacy/Outback will not outperform a BMW 3 or 5 series I am absolutely positive the the STi Legacy will come close to matching a BMW 540, which is quite a feat.

93's have a drivers side airbag, manual seatbelts, and level 1 door safety beams, 92's had those terrible motorized seatbelts (in the US only, outlawed due to decapitations almost everywhere else). I think the 93 had a freshened rear end on the sedan, but no cosmetic differences on the wagon. Some US 93 special edition wagons had the "humped" roof now present on the Outbacks (humped roofs were common as far back as 85 on Subaru's sold overseas). Thats pretty much it....

I am fairly positive that ALL "EJ" engines use coilpacks, especially since you need a cam and crank sensor to control the coilpack you are now using, neither of which would be present on an engine with a distributor. Are you sure its not the rear camshaft seal? Most EJ18/EJ20/EJ22 engines have reversable heads, meaning that there is no dedicated right and left head assemblies, just dedicated left and right valve covers. So basically to change a left side head to a right side head, you turn the camshaft around, and move everything (not much) that is on the "front" to the "back". It is an ingenious design. The newer EJ25 heads don't seem to have this reversibility, my 2001 Outback has no rear camshaft seal (at least not one that I can find). The rear camshaft oil seal is a common point of failure. A $3 O-ring gasket fixes the seal for another 80-100,000 miles. Be sure to check out your valve cover gaskets for leaks as well. Why did you install the 110hp EJ18 in a Legacy which barely got moving with the 130hp EJ22? How is your fuel economy? I would expect no improvement in city mileage and perhaps 2-3 MPG on the highway.