gyuunuuya

Yeah but if my TPS is inverted then at fully open it should be at 0-0.5 volts. Mine isn't full open it's at 2.8 volts. But your saying it doesn't matter what sytle of TPS I have but if the car came stock with a TPS that at closed was sitting at 0-0.5 volts and was replaced with a TPS that at closed sits at 4.5-5.0 volts it would seem that would definetly make the computer a little confised. Unless someone here knows for sure that the computer will automatically adust for a change like that it seems I need to a. Find out what kind of TPS came stock with that car. b. Get a new TPS that at fully closed sits at 0-0.5 volts. and at fully open sits at 4.5-5.0 volts or inverse depending on what kind of unit I need. I could check the sweep this weekend to see if it's dropping signal but it still doesn't change the fact the unit isn't operating properly already from the tests I've run.

Ok I'm going to get a used TPS to throw in the car. While that's being done does anyone here have a 90-94 legacy that knows or could find out if their TPS is 0-0.5 volts closed throttle? Or if it's actually 4.5-5 volts. Thanks if anyone responds.

So again before I go out and buy new stuff. Back to the original question.

So my $300 fluke DMM won't work ?

I have the haynes version. That is the method I used. I'm not sure what u mean by check the sweep.

http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Fuel.pdf CLosed TPS is supposed to be at 0-0.5 volts Open TPS is supposed to be at4.5-5 volts However mine is exact oppisite. pins 2 and 4 on a 4 pin TPS connector with ignition on.

Ok I tried testing out the TPS wires by rotating them in my hands, and seeing if there was a short of any kind = no difference. I followed the wires to the harness and cleaned that up = no difference. Came back to this board and did some searching on TPS = didn't find much. Thought about it with my feeble mind a little bit I remembered one thing. The TPS was marked with white crayon at screw positon, which means some mechanic worked on it and either replaced or removed the TPS at some point. The QUESTION: What would happen on a subaru if the original TPS was a non inverted TPS and it was replaced by an inverted TPS????? Since the TPS is working correctly and I don't really see a problem with the circuit I'm hopeing that an inverted TPS would screw up a car built for a non inverted TPS. Thanks in advance.

Wow thanks alot Gary hopefully I won't screw up mine. I will try to do that tonight when i get home. Does the TPS have it's own connector to the ECU? Hopefully it will be somewhat obvious when I try the rolling trick tonight. I have a butt connector set and crimpers so if I do find faulty wiring I will be able to fix it on the spot

Ok cleared codes yesterday and checked codes again today only one left AT THIS TIME. code 31 TPS (or circuit) seems to be a problem

Yes Nipper I replaced the CTS as well as the sending unit underneath it. I cleared the codes yesterday after I got home from work, as well as retarding the TPS back to 4.8volts. I will check the car when I get home to se what codes it's throwing out now. Thanks again guys I will definetly keep you posted.

yeah but what do you think about the coils?

I did test the wires and they ohm out just fine however the coils they hook up to r about 600 ohms over spec but I'm guessing that's not to huge of a difference. So I haven't replaced them yet because I don't think 600 ohms is much of a concern

Also if I'm not supposed to clear the codes when am I supposed to clear them?

Sorry by reset I mean't clearing the codes. Now Cougar says that the code should go away by itself so should I try to clear the codes or not? Thanks for the info again OB99W. Your like a link guru LOL.

Fine fine that fuel.PDF contains everything I need apparently. I will consult my Hanes manual to see if it goes into further depth on resetting it. I will post tonight of tommorrow with any improvment.

I replaced the CTS about 3-4 weeks ago. And before I replced it I tested it with an ohm meter and it was malfuctioning. I apparently need to reset the ECU but am not certain how to do it. I will look around this forum for the answer hopefully I will find it.

I held steady at 18 at 2000-2500 RPM. Great testing procedure though if I ever need to diagnose a car again and am stumped I will bust out the vaccum gauge

OHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH I didn't know there was a way to reset the ECU on this car. Maybe the coolant sensor did the trick but the car still thinks it's bad. Anyone got a link on reseting the ECU on a 92 legacy sub?

K thanks sorry I guess I missed that part about inverted TPS's. Great information if only I was smart enough to read through the whole thing and comprehend it eh LOL

Salvage it? It's working fine then I will just advande it back to 4.8 volts or whatever will make the idle speed around 700-800 RPM. Definetly since the TPS seems to be functioning correctly testing the circuit will be the next step. Yes you can. I forgot the exact procedure but basically u hook up a volt meter to it and measure the ohms rise and dropping if it does that within specs it's functioning correctly. Thanks again I will have to check the circuit this week sometime.

Also I noticed the ECU is still throwing out codes. I got codes 31 Throttle Sensor or Circuit - Seems to be wrong according to book 21 Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit - just replaced it WTF 24 Air Control Valve or Circuit - Unknown at this stage 13 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit - tested it with DMM works fine Also I retarded the TPS to 4.18 volts and I'm not sure if it was like this b4 but I'm idling at 1100 RPM. Again I don't remember if that's where it was b4. I might have to advande the TPS again and see if the idle goes down.

Can anyone clarify that such a thing exists? I have that Hanes manual for subaru legacy I believe 90-94 Can double check if someone really needs to know.

OK I think I FOUND IT. The TPS is giving a reading of 4.8 volts at closed throttle. When the throttle is open it's giving about a 2.8 reading. Book says closed is .5-1 volt and open is 4.5-5 volts. I tried adjusting the TPS to correct reading but lowest I can get it is 4.2 volts. I think I might need a new TPS. Also given the readings I got from the TPS does the IAC have any relation to those readings??? It seems that the auto shop that told me to put better gas in the car should close down and start selling used tires or something.

Oh and I will have to check the TPS today too and let you guys know what I found.

Ok I just checked the engine witha vacuum gauge hooked up to the intake manifold. I get a steady 17-18 when cold and when engine on warmer side I get a 21. When open and close throttle real quick engine jumps up to 25. All seem normal. I've ruled out a bad radiator because a friend of mine told me that the engine will usually throw out a code for engine temp running hot, which I never got. Last thing I can think to try to a running diagnostic test that I found on this forum. They if nothing found I will replace the cat on monday or something. Any other suggestions guys? And again thanks for all the help