gyuunuuya

I might check that later but I have no real loss of power. Just going uphill but I believe that might be a cogged cat.

Also anyone else out there have a 92 legancy the hits halfway mark on their thermostat?

Ok so I buy/rent a vacuum gauge and hook it up to a vacuum line? Sorry but I'm unclear what a vacuum gange does other then the obvious. New cat installed should only be like 200 bucks, but it that's not my problem and it is a air flow issure or whatever is causing my mixture to become rich it will destroy that new cat very quickly. So checking what you guys said would be smartest. I took apart the IAC last week and cleaned it all up as previously stated but the line where the PCV runs was very gummed up on the tubing. Is that normal? I really apprieciate all the help guys I'm down to do whatever makes sense. Your alot better then these bastards that keep telling me to put better fuel in the car and that will solve my problems. So it seems like a choice between a new radiator, catalaic converter, or a new frigin car if I don't get this fixed soon LOL. Is the TPS in the IAC? I'll go through that pdf u linked me and see what I can dig up in there but quickly skimming it I saw parts about the IAC and the MAF and I saw a section on the TPS report but didn't see anything that soubnds to clear as to where it was stated, again I'm gonna look right now more throughly. thanks guys

Anyone happen to have a pic? Or could describe it so I can find it plz. Thanks alot

TPS?? I replaced the MAF and I know it's working correctly because I tested it.

Yeah when I pulled them out b4 they looked nice and dry to me. But if a new cat doesn't fix the problem then I will have to check again

No it's not running abnormally hot it stay right in the middle temp range and doesn't move. Just heats up hella quick. The more I think about it possably if it's a bad cat and the gases aren't escaping from the cylinders it's possable that it makes the car think it's heating up quicker, becuase new cold air isn't getting inside the engine. What do u guys think?

Yes I got all my parts from the dealer

Nope I had the car for I about a year and never had to put coolant in it. It's full everytime I check it. Would u happen to know a way or a place that can test fuel injectors?

I replaced the thermostat, coolant temp sensor, and coolant temp sensor sending unit. And the car used to heat up fast but since I replaced those it's REALLY fast now, as previously stated. Would the injector be leaking through bad o-rings? I pulled those and looked at them, but they looked fine, unless it's some kinda hairline crack that normal human eyes can't see.

green ones are disconnected. Black ones r connected cuz I'm looking for more codes to be thrown out.

Since everyone around this area is a frigin idiot when it comes to fixing subarus do u recommend I take it to the dealer? Maybe someone knows of a place in or around san diego that has the balls to say $50 bucks to diagnose the problem and not be like all these other retards that say 80 bucks an hour and who knows how long it takes. I just hate going to the dealer everytime I do I feel like I'm walking in backwards while I'm spreading my buttchecks after applying glue and sand between them with a credit car in my hand. Also if it wa the ca and loose crap was floating around in there would that cause the car to have crap mileage? maybe all the bad air wouldn't be passing through the system and the car would try to compensate by making the mixture richer?

No car sounds fine nothing abnormal except what might sound like a pinging engine once in awhile or a cylinder missing. Definetly some kinda misfiring noise from the engine when idle or accelerating.

I had a car that had chunks of crap stuck in the cat and it wouldn't go over like 4000 rpm or it would start to choke. Do u believe that a car that has tons of power would choke going uphill due to a bad cat? It been the only thing I can imagine besides the ECU that would be the cause but I kept ruling it out becuase the car seems to have lots of power normally.

Sorry apparently I posted twice. Anyways mileage is about 170,000

Gas mileage has always been horrable on the car not bad, I mean horrable like 12 MPG, with a light foot 92 Subaru legacy AWD non turbo wagon Automatic. I've done many things to try to fix this problem. 1) Replace air filter 2) Mass air flow sensor 3) O2 Sensor (the one by the exhaust manifold) 4) Spark plugs 5) Seafoam straight through the injection with a tube and the can. 6) tire pressure and new tires 7) Oil changes 8) Replaced coolant temp sensor and sending unit 9) Replaced PCV 10) My wife has to smog the car since regestration is due, but of course if failed. :dead::dead: HC (PPM) Idle Max = 120 Measured = 230 2500 RPM max = 140 Measured = 15 ______________________________ CO Idle Max = 1.00 Measured = 1.65 2500 RPM Max = 1.00 Measured = 0.05 If your have any other suggestions as to what I can do plz let me know. This is from a previous posting that never got replied to. Ok I changed out the PCV and the coolant temp sensor as well as the coolest temp sending unit underneath the temp sensor. I plugged in the black connectors and got 2 error code readings 1 ) Bad coolant temp sensor 2) Bad cam angle sensor anyways after I changed the coolant sensor 2 things happened. 1) check engine light is solid on now with no codes. 2) even in the cold morning if u turn the car on and drive 1 block maybe about 1/4 mile or less the car is already fully heated up. like within 1 min of starting the car. Also tonight I took apart the IAC unit and noticed when I disconnected the PCV valve all the tubed are gunked up with gunk. Not like where air can't get through but nice cake build up on sides of tubing. I also looked at the injector rings to see if they were leaking but I didn't see anything wrong with them. Gas mileage is still crap any clues??? PLEASE DEAR GOD PLEASE!!!!!!!!! :banghead::banghead:

Gas mileage has always been horrable on the car not bad, I mean horrable like 12 MPG, with a light foot 92 Subaru legacy AWD non turbo wagon Automatic. I've done many things to try to fix this problem. 1) Replace air filter 2) Mass air flow sensor 3) O2 Sensor (the one by the exhaust manifold) 4) Spark plugs 5) Seafoam straight through the injection with a tube and the can. 6) tire pressure and new tires 7) Oil changes 8) Replaced coolant temp sensor and sending unit 9) Replaced PCV 10) My wife has to smog the car since regestration is due, but of course if failed. :dead::dead: HC (PPM) Idle Max = 120 Measured = 230 2500 RPM max = 140 Measured = 15 ______________________________ CO Idle Max = 1.00 Measured = 1.65 2500 RPM Max = 1.00 Measured = 0.05 If your have any other suggestions as to what I can do plz let me know. Also I took it to a place around here that deals especially in subaru's and the guy told me to put better gas in it and run injector cleaner through it to see if that helps. So I ran like he had the frigin ebola virus. No one around here has any idea about subaru's even the guys that claim they specialize in them. You guys are my only hope. This is from a previous posting that never got replied to. Ok I changed out the PCV and the coolant temp sensor as well as the coolest temp sending unit underneath the temp sensor. I plugged in the black connectors and got 2 error code readings 1 ) Bad coolant temp sensor 2) Bad cam angle sensor anyways after I changed the coolant sensor 2 things happened. 1) check engine light is solid on now with no codes. 2) even in the cold morning if u turn the car on and drive 1 block maybe about 1/4 mile or less the car is already fully heated up. like within 1 min of starting the car. Also tonight I took apart the IAC unit and noticed when I disconnected the PCV valve all the tubed are gunked up with gunk. Not like where air can't get through but nice cake build up on sides of tubing. I also looked at the injector rings to see if they were leaking but I didn't see anything wrong with them. Gas mileage is still crap any clues??? PLEASE DEAR GOD PLEASE!!!!!!!!! :banghead::banghead:

Ok I changed outr the PCV and the coolant temp sensor as well as the coolest temp sending unit underneath the temp sensor. I plugged in the black connectors and got 2 error code readings 1 ) Bad coolant temp sensor 2) Bad cam angle sensor anyways after I changed the coolant sensor 2 things happened. 1) check engine light is solid on now with no codes. 2) even in the cold morning if u turn the car on and drive 1 block maybe about 1/4 mile or less the car is already fully heated up. like within 1 min of starting the car. Also tonight I took apart the IAC unit and noticed when I disconnected the PCV valve all the tubed are gunked up with gunk. Not like where air can't get through but nice cake build up on sides of tubing. I also looked at the injector rings to see if they were leaking but I didn't see anything wrong with them. Gas mileage is still crap any clues??? PLEASE DEAR GOD PLEASE!!!!!!!!!

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=55651 You could pull out the tranfer clutches and see if they are welded like mine were. Would be free, only take you a couple hours, probably less becuase sounds like u got a garage with lots of tools, and a LIFT.

Apparently k-watanabe isn't in business anymore or something. However I did find these businesses that do the same things. Below is a descripion of the guy who's page I stole this from explaining what to expect as well . G LUCK For guys looking for clean used Japanese engines and transmissions here is a list of the So Cal companies that import them. Prices vary a lot between them, for the most part you get what you pay for. Between them all, usually one or two will have a 1.6 turbo motor or trans. I have never seen a 1.8 at any of them, best to stick with Cork Sport for those. When calling these guys you may have to deal with some heavy accents. We ask for "four by four" on the transmissions. "Four wheel drive" can be confused with "front wheel drive" sometimes. Motors go from $600-800 including manifolds and turbo. You have a 75% chance of getting a early 1.6 with the bigger intake manifold but smaller turbo. They usually have a distributor, the cap and rotor may be cracked from shipping. The timing belt upper covers can also be slightly damaged. AWD trans go from $450-700 including transfer cases. If it has a cable actuated clutch (the hydraulic clutch parts swap right over) it will have a slightly lower gear ratio. Most trannys come with the center diff locking motor, the wires may be cut. There is no way to determine the mileage on these. They will always quote 40,000-60,000 but there is no way to really know. Most are very clean. They guarantee the motors and trans for 6 months and usually 6,000 miles, but just the parts and not the labor or shipping. In Japan they have very strict licensing laws and regulations which get older cars off the street at a young age. Nation Wide Importers Soen Trade Corporation 475 Jersey Ave. New Brunswick, NJ 08901 (866)ENG-TRAN (866)364-8726 Soko America 11410 Melrose St. Franklin Park, IL 60131 http://www.soko.com (800)338-7656 Jemco Cary, NC (which is between Raleigh & Durham, NC http://www.jemco.com 800-445-5981 Midwest Engine Sales 14502 South Industrial Ave. Cleveland, Ohio 44137 http://www.midwest-engine.com/ 216-475-3180 / Fax 216-475-4091 800-234-1423 A-1 JDM Engines http://www.a1jdmengines.com (416) 496-9822 Street Imports http://www.streetimports.com (800) 839-4536 J Spec Auto http://www.jspecauto.com (514) 917-6978 Rising Sun Engines, Inc 2695 Hwy 32 Chico, California 95973 http://www.risingsunengines.com (888) 660-4664 In Ca. (530) 895-0300 Japanese Used Engines http://www.japaneseusedengines.com (888) 4GO-MOTOR Motorworks Premium Used Engines and Transmissions 111 Bond Street Westbury, New York 11590 http://www.enginereplacement.com 1-866-Japan-NY 1-866-527-2669

Just an FYI I live in california and use a company called k-watanabe for all my motors. They get them from japan and chop them out of the cars over there and ship them here. They are great engines and are dirt cheap. Your usually talking about 400-600 for one. You know they are good because they have the compression on each cylinder. That's about it hope that helps anyone out near here, but they also ship out cross state I believe

Thanks GREAT to hear that : ) I'll have to drain my fluid tonight to ensure I change out the fluid when it's fixed.

Cool thanks alot guys. Yeah I told him yesterday that the engine is scrap and to trash the ride and get a new one. I'm pissed at nippers response because I just put a brand new radiator in my prelude and it now also has a blown head gasket. So I hope I don't have to replace the brand new radiator again : ( Again thanks for for the input, and quick responses.

Hello I got a friend that has a 93 sub legacy 2WD. Anyways he says he was driving it and all of a sudden it lost al it's power and when he pulled over all the oil was gone out of it, and it was idling rough. He says he drove it home and let it cool down ( with no oil in it ) and then started it again to make sure it still worked, and it did, but he hasen't otuched it since that day. Anyways I went to his house yesterday to look at it and I put 4 quarts of oil in it expecting it to blow oil everywhere so I could see where it was coming from. Started the car and it died right away. so he started it and I held down the throttle, and it held an idle but very rough. I held it down for about 5 mins hoping to see a leak.... nothing. I let go of the throttle and it held a rough idle. sounds like at least 3 of the pistons if not all 4 are firing but I can't tell. Also when I rev to engine I can hear a high pitched sqealing that doesn't see to be coming from the belt, but possably something more internal or maybe a pump of something. Ok so I let the car heat all the way up and I start seeing oil coming from the bottom of the engine right next to a gasket near the radiator front., but I can't tell for sure if it's that gasket that's the problem of something else. Also I opened the radiator resivoir tank and it wasen't quiet boiling but it was having air bubbles come out, and I'm not sure if that's normal. I also noticed that there was a little bit of soot in the water resivoir, but it didn't quiet look like oil just a bit of dirt, but then again how the hell does soot get into the water resivoir. The last thing that I can remember is I opened the oil cap to see if foam was underneath it but I didnt' fid any then again the oil cap come off a long tupe from the engine so I'm not sure it the foam could reach there in the short time I had the engine running (about 10 mins), but I did notice the oil was spitting out of the oil cap when I removed it. Like a pretty decent amount of oil was spitting out. in about 1-2 mins u could soak a paper towel with the stuff spitting out of the cap. Head gasket?

Just an FYI I drove the legacy like that for months without any problems. But just as a precaution so the computer doesn't get confused I made sure I put the car in 2WD mode.