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I got my parts from a japanese engine importer, however I bought the whole tranny for 400 I think. But I ended up using just the transfer clutches in the housing. You might be able to go to a pull u part junkyard and just pull out the rear housing for pretty cheap. Definetly cheaper then 400 bucks Hope this helps you.

I hooked it up myself and checked it with a DMM. But it doesn't hurt to check it again : ). I'll have to test it when I get home or something? Stupid as it sounds if you had a volt meter how would you check to make sure it's functioning so I know I"m doing it correctly. Also do you think the fact that it is a universal O2 sensor that maybe my car doesn't like it. Also I have no CHE lights on. thanks alot Jon for all your input so far.

Ok it's been a day and my wife has driven bout 50 miles. So far her car is the same crappy mileage as far as I can tell. she hit 50 mile mark and her tank is already at 3/4 which woiuld be exactly 200 miles to the tank as usual. Anyone know any way to makes sure the ECU is doing it's job correctly? Do I need to take it to the dealer to get the ECU looked at or will a normal auto shop have the proper equiptment to diagnose it properly?

Thanks alot man I'll have to check that coolant sensor if I can find it : ) With the dribbling injectors is that fixable by cleaning them up or do I need to purchase new ones? Oh and no there are no trouble codes stored. If I plug in the green and black connectors under the steering wheel the CEL starts blinking but after check that on this forum it seems like that is what is supposed to happen. As far as a compression test the car seems to have alot of power so I doubt it's got a bad cylinder. Thanks again for all the help guys. Any more suggestions? as I try the ones already given.

Ok old one looked like ************, all grimey and oily. Gonna have wife start checking MPG tommorrow. thanks again guys and if anyone else has any ideas I'll definetly try it

Yeah I just bought a new open for 2.59 at the auto store : ) . Gonna go pop it in right now thxs again

Since the PVC valve is just a valve is it possable to run a cleaner through it? Or is there filters and stuff in it that just simply need replacment?

After running seafoam through the car last night it's improved imensly. Car is MUCH more responsive and seems to have more power. I changed out the O2 sensor with a Bosch universal sensor. I'm pretty sure I hooked it up right, but you are telling me to use what tool and where do I get it from to make sure it's working properly? Also the idle isn't high as far as I can tell the engine just simply runs RICH. I see no difference in loss or gain of power. The car just thinks it's gas tank is a giant slurpee and wants to drink it all up before it melts. I changed out the thermostat last night and car still warms up quickly. By quickly I mean that if I start the car dead cold and let it idle about 2-3 minutes later the thermostat reaches the halfway mark in the dash. However I also noticed that when it does if I grab the upper radiator hose it's still cold for the next 5 minutes. Maybe this is normal but if it isn't and someone tells me it's bad maybe I should go get a new coolant sensor. Ok thanks again everyone for all the great replies I'm eagerly waiting for advice.

OMG thxs alot man, and YES it seems to have some kinda wierd rolling resistance. Like when I'm driving I hear a WRRRRRRR sound coming from the tires as if I drove a big rump roast truck with dirt tires. Please tell me you know how to fix this I was always wondering if that was a normal sound on legacies.

Cool thanks alot guys I'll try this. So other people out thetre have gotten 12 MPG because of this valve? I just came back from the auto store with the hanes manuel so I will look in there for where this valve is.

Airfilter was changed too thxs I'll add that to my list. Where is PCV valve? anyone know or have a picture? What does it do? DOes it have alot to do with gas mileage?

Sorry I added that information to original posting. Straight alcohol through the engine eh? That cleans out little nasties in the engine better then seafoam? Or are you telling me to put alcohol in my gas tank b4 I take it to get smogged?

Filled with 91 octane from Exxon Gas mileage has always been horrable on the car not bad, I mean horrable like 12 MPG, with a light foot 92 Subaru legacy AWD non turbo wagon Automatic. I've done many things to try to fix this problem. 1) Replace air filter 2) Mass air flow sensor 3) O2 Sensor (the one by the exhaust manifold) 4) Spark plugs 5) Seafoam straight through the injection with a tube and the can. 6) tire pressure and new tires 7) Oil changes 8) My wife has to smog the car since regestration is due, but of course if failed. HC (PPM) Idle Max = 120 Measured = 230 2500 RPM max = 140 Measured = 15 ______________________________ CO Idle Max = 1.00 Measured = 1.65 2500 RPM Max = 1.00 Measured = 0.05 I bought another O2 sensor today because I was told that there are 2 o2 sensors on subaru's so I was gonna try to fix that. If your have any other suggestions as to what I can do plz let me know. Also I have noticed that the car temp sensor seems to warm up pretty fast it's fully warm in like 2 minutes of driving lightly. Is it possable a fualty temp sensor can cause all these problems? Thanks in advance

See if any of this is related to your problem http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=55651

Call a subaru dealer and ask. They will know for sure

It all very's on how you frive as well. If you Stomp on the gas everywhere you go your gonna get more dirty oil. If you drive around like me with gas prices so high, and ran full synthetic I would change oil filter every 5K miles and change out oil at 10K. Regular oil runs just fine for me at 5-6K miles, never had any problems.

Did the diagram help you out Imdew? If you have anymore questions just ask.

And the last one is the tranny diagram:headbang: tranny-diagram-low.zip

Apparently I can' t post more then 5 pics per post so here's another one OK here is where the solenoid is Good gear Some parts you are gonna take out My bad sensor unit, somehow it got smashed up

Also this os some more info I found on later year subaru's. This guy has a racing subaru site. here is link for more info, but most of it is for installing aftermarket parts. http://legacycentral.org/library/torquebind.htm "Torque-Bind" By Dave This has been a hot topic of late, as more and more older Subaru Legacies reach high mileage and drivetrain wear becomes a factor. One of the most common problems in AWD 4EAT automatic transmission equipped cars is the dreaded "torque-bind". The most common symptoms of this problem are a shudder throughout the whole car, but more pronounced beneath the seat, when accelerating in a low-speed turn. The shudder will stop if power is removed and disappears when speed goes beyond the threshold of most tires or the wheels are straightened out. Recently i've found out that the early model Legacies don't actually have the wear problems listed below, but frequently have a malfunctioning solenoid in the same area that causes pressure problems and very similar symptoms. Replacing this should fix the problems in pre-95 models. The solution to the problem is relatively simple and comprehensive but first you should know what causes this problem. The evolution of the problem and the solution were shown to me by a Master Technician at Subaru of Ogden in Ogden, Utah. In the rear of the transmission is a watermelon sized aluminum housing that contains several valves, bushings and seals. The rear driveshaft that couples with the rear differential. The problem occurs in here, and the replacement of this cures it. Inside of the housing the rear shaft spins and has teflon bushings and fluid seals for the AWD system. This is where much of the rear power is transferred. The problem occurs when these bushings wear against the aluminum. For some reason Subaru, or the transmission manufacturers, decided not to have a bearing or liner in lieu of using the housing itself as the wear surface. This is where the problem and solution lies. The bushings and seals wear the aluminum down after time. This allows the pressurized ATF to leak from one chamber to the next. The torque meant to be transferred to the rear ends up being greatly reduced and the fluid transaction causes the shuddering. Thankfully the fix is relatively inexpensive and doesn't require the transmission to be removed. At Subaru of Ogden i got to see a 95+ Legacy in the midst of this operation. The rear driveshaft and exhaust rear of the Catalytic Convertor have to be removed and the rear transmission housing needs to be removed. The housing is completely replaced with a new one. New internal components are included and apparently the bushings and seals on the driveshaft are also replaced. The most important piece of the solution is the addition of a steel liner to protect the aluminum housing against wear. This should ensure that this problem doesn't occur for the remaining life of the car. The procedure was quoted as $750 by Subaru of Ogden. An updated case with the steel liner was put into prodution and installed in all new cars in mid-1997. You may never have this problem but if you do, there is a relatively easy and inexpensive solution to a more and more common problem.

Check later on this post. I'm gonna put a wireing diagram and a bunch of pics I took.

Please read my new post titled torque bind to see if that helps you at all. Also I will include this link as well . http://legacycentral.org/library/torquebind.htm hope that helps

Ok after 3 days of being underneath the car, and tons of info and phone calls to various people I don't know I got evevything figured out. The Problem : 1992 Legacy AWD non turbo automatic With driveshaft in car and FWD fuse in box, when taking right or lefts the rear wheels lock up and make the whole car shake, and the rears peel out a bit (The car is locked in 4 wheel drive mode so all 4 tires spin equally). Also with driveshaft out the binding goes away however the gas mileage is about 14 MPG. The Reason : The rear wheels have to travel a farther distance then the front and since the car is locked in 4WD mode the rear wheels need to turn more but since they can't they lock up and drag on the ground instead. Mileage may be caused from either the fact that apparently subarus are designed that when you first accelerate all 4 wheels have power and then it gradually moves the power to 90 front/10 rear. Also since the car isn't functioning correctly maybe the computer is confused and is applying to much gas to the car or something. The solution (for me at least) STEPS 1) Drain the tranny fluid (on my legacy it was 8.8 quarts) and check for burn smell or debris. Fill tranny back up. If the problem just started and you got to it right away this should fix your problem. 2) If you found debris in your tranny fluid and filling it back up didn't seem to help check your tranny filter and see if that's gunked up. 3) If tranny fluid and filter all seem fine it's time to start getting dirty:eek:. Get under the car and unbolt the frontside of th driveshaft and let it dangle down. Also in order to do that you should unbolt the guard in the back since the driveshaft probably won't move down enough for u to get it out. I personally unbolted the rear guard without trying so maybe u can get it out just fine without removing it. 4) Unbolt the section of exhaust that runs from your cat to your exhaust manifold I guess, not sure what it's called. It's between the place when your exhaust forks down from 4 pipes to 1 and before your cat too. I'm sure you'll figure it out. Also you will more then likely break some bolts, don't worry about it that's not much you can do that I know of since they are exhaust bolts. You will probably have to visit an exhaust shop afterwards, I did and it costs me 40 bucks to have that fixed. 5) Now hopefully all your tranny fluid is not inside your tranny you are gonna unbolt the back houseing of the tranny, it's pretty simple. You now have to coax the housing off the tranny, I used a chisle next to a mounting pin and a hammer to lightly make a wedge. Just be careful not to groove the housing where the gasket goes or else it will leak. Once I got enough of a gap that when I moved the housing up and down it jiggled I just started jiggling it till it came off. 6) Now unbolt the transfer clutch solenoid and get some alligator clips. Plug one clip to ground and one to hot side of battery terminal. You should hear a loud click when u do. Also if you truly want to test it once the solenoid has power blow on the little hole with your mouth it should let air pass through, and when solenoid has no power no air should pass through. If that doesn't seem to be working great you found the problem , replace and all should be fine. 7) If that seems to be working fine there is a sensor on the back of the houseing that needs no unbolting or messy stuff. You can pull it out and check it for debris, and also ohm it out with a volt meter. Should be about 600 Ohms working. 8) Ok now for where my problem was LOL. If all those seem just fine and you bought the car from some car for 600 bucks time to check the transfer clutches themselves. Opps they are all welded together and there are alot of signed of burning all around the gears. Time to replace it. 9) Time to grab some alot of razor blades, and start scraping. get as much of the old gasket off both sides of the housing, and make sure you get the top of the houseing from the side that's still attached to the car. You can buy a gasket set of be cheap like me and use some instant gasket making, just make sure it resists oil. Also get some acetone or laceur thinner and wipe down both sides of housing really well. Apply gasket and carefully attach housing back together. Slap everything back together and MAKE SURE YOU PUT TRANNY FLUID BACK IN ( I did that once on my first car ) !!!! 10) Since you are down there why don't you change the front diff fluid and the rear as well. Hope this helps someone else with my problem. Please reply if it does. Or if I missed anything. Here are the pics I took plus an eletric diagrams for a 92 subaru legacy tranny The housing you'll need to remove Under the car shot with stuff removed Big difference between the bad gear and good gear. On bad gear all clutches were welded together.

Ok if anyone else has this problem I'm gonna post what I did to fix it and have pics and crap. Do a search for torque bind on main page.

Oh yeah forgot to mention I had the FWD 20 amp fuse in car the whole time the car was missing the driveshaft. Also the fuse doesn't help the situation at all. ( with or without the driveshaft in) Another insteresting thing I forgot to mention is that, sometimes when going up a hill with the fuse in place and no driveshaft, and only sometimes, but especially on steep hills, the car would stop accelerating, and just push really hard but not go anywhere. As if the car was doing the 90-10 except the 90 to the rears and 10 to the front. I would floor it and the RPM's would shoot up and the engine would act as if it was under load but wouldn't go anywhere, it would keep losing speed until (verying on the steepness of the hill) it hit like 40 or 60 MPH. Hope that might raise a few eyebrows. Alos thxs for helping understand why I'm losing so much gas. That makes alot of sense. But then again if the computer thinks it's in 2WD mode then it shoudn't be wasting gas trying to distribute power to the rear, right?