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Ok sorry for the super long wait guys. It's been awhile since I posted the main thread here. Anyways I busted open the starter and BAM one of the contacts were shot, all smushed into itself. So I went down to the junkyard and cracked open another starter from a subaru there, was wrong year and later I found out wrong part but it still worked . I took the starter apart and *cough cough* bought the little contact that was small enough to fit into my pocket. Slapped in the new contact and put everything back together, turned the key and almost had an orgasm . Finally got at least the starting thing working. Ok now I'm still not liking the fact that the car has horrible torque bind, and is getting crappy gas milege (200 miles to the tank roughly 14 miles to the gallon). So even though I had the driveshaft out this whole time I decided it would be nice to get the AWD working, and maybe for some odd reason might fix gas milege problem. Ok so yesterday and today spent most of the days trying to fix problem, he's what I did and found out. 1) Replaced tranny fluid (Automatic) 2) Replaced rear diff fluid (which had almost no viscosity) 3) Replaced front diff fluid 4) Took transfer clutch solenoid off new tranny I got for car and never used (been sitting in my garage)and ohmed it out at 600 Ohms 5) Ohmed out transfer clutch solenoid on the subaru and it's ohms out correctly 6) Connected positive terminal of battery to transfer clutch solenoid and hear a click click sound when I touch then contacts together which means it seems to be functioning. 7) The little magnetic thingy that connects to the front diff that I'm guessing tells the computer if the transfer wheel is spinning which I will call from now on a widget, I ohmed out as well. Also got a correct reading from the car. 8) When I first bought the vehicle I replaced all tires with same brand and size new ones, and air pressure is fine. Tommorrow I am going to replace the transfer clutch solenoid, and inspect the gear in the front diff to see if there is any evidence of binding. In case I forgot to mention it in initial post the car is a 92 legacy wagon AWD non-turbo. If you guys can tell me anything else that you think might be helpful, I would greatly appretiate it. Thanks in advance Going crazy over torque bind. Also I found this website useful if anyone else has torque bind. http://legacycentral.org/library/torquebind.htm

OK I pulled the starter apart and the motor was in great condition, then I puller the starter solinoid apart and one of the contacts was crooked and smashed to hell on one side. So I went to the junkyard and pocketed some brand new contacts from some old rump roast subaru legacy probably an 86'. It's amazing on the subarus they had there all the engines have exactly the same layout no matter what year I saw. Anyways the contact I got wasen't exactly like the old one but I put it in crossed my fingers and it worked. Thanks alot guys now I gotta fringin get the stupid gas mileage up. I'll try that sensor you guys told me about first and post back again.

Teah I did the code read outs, and they all seem to have come up bunk. I replaced the O2 sensor, the Mass air flow sensor, and the last code which seems like the only one that was correct which was abnormal signal from parking switch LOL. Cool I'll check out that unit too maybe dip it in some gasoline or carb cleaner, and see if that helps. You guys rock I'll hopefully do it tommorrow was slammed all day today and couldn't do anything on the car.

WOW thanks alot that was very informative. I'll have to buy a ************load of tranny fluid now. Hopefully I will have time tommorrow, if not I'll have trime on monday and try all the things people suggested so far and let u guys now which ones worked.

Cool thanks alot guy that's sounds like the problem alot. I will ltry to do it tommorrow and post back here if it worked. Alos do any of your subaru's out there (automatic) before u start your car if u push the button on the stick does it make a loud CLICK noise coming from the ignition, like around where your keys are undeernesath the steering wheel.?

The battery terminals are in perfect condition. The car isn't struggling to start it's not even turning the engine at all. Good thinking though. Sorry if I didn't make that clear.

Already got one. So you think that the engine wouldn't turn over because of a temp sensor? I bought a new thermastat months ago but never put it in. Alos I changed the O2 sensor, and sparks. thanks for reply BTW. I f you think it'll help I'll do it today : )

Ok I bought my wife a 92 subaru legacy, and had some probalems with the AWD function not working because all the wheels were in 4WD and weren't free of each other but all lockes in sequince like a truck 4WD. Anyways I took the driveshaft out and that fixed the problem. Now even since I bought this 92 subaru legacy automatic wagon, I've had problems with it. 1) When I first bought it the car would start fine cold but had trouble starting warm. The engine would crank when the engine was warm but wouldn't keep the idle. 2) couple weeks after I got it the exact opposite happened, engine cold engine fires but won't idle will imiediatly die. Ok no problem we dealt with it. 3) Check engine light starts to blink on and off when u put the car into drive for the entire time u drive the car. Fixed it with a post it and a sharpie (covered it up). 4) Ok now it's 4 months later and now when the engine is cold the engine don't even crank all I hear is the started clicking once and that's it. Must try several time which at this point has gotten into like 20-30 mins to start the car. 5) gas mileage has always been horrable on the car not bad, I mean horrable like 12 MPG, with a light foot. 6) last clue to the puzzle when the car isn't started and I push the button on the automatic lever next to the ignition I hear *CLICK* and when I release the button again click. Now I would assume that it's a killswitch from a old car alarm or something and I need to mess with the wiring, but I actually here the starter solinoid kick in so I'm pretty lost. Any help guys Thanks in advance

Oh sorry I always called them DMM's or volt meters. Digital mutlti meter, just wasen't familiar with that termonology,. Thanks again, I'll post back next week if I found and corrected the problem.

DVM? is that the obd code tester thing? I'm in california so all the autoparts store only carry obd sensors for 96 and up... might be 94 and up anyways, the dealer wants 90 buck to look at it and just to tell me what's wrong they want even more maybe depending on how much time they put into it. I like that webpage gbrand sent me I will look at those options next week since I got work the rest of this week. Seem like those codes r good since like I said I only get 200 miles to the tank. Thanks again guys I really appriciate it.

Does anyone know what these mean? 23 Air flow meter or circuit (exc. Justy); Pressure sensor (Justy) 35 Canister purge solenoid or circuit 52 Parking brake switch (exc. Justy)/Clutch switch (Justy) If they r even the right codes for a 92 subaru legacy AWD. Do u guys think these codes might lead to starting problems? When I bought the car it had a hard time starting when the engine was warm, but now it has a hard time starting when the engine is cold LOL. Also shouldn't subaru's get more then 200 miles to the tank? Thanks in advance guys

Sorry come to think of it. I was off neg 0.35

Hey everyone, Ok my car is a 92 Subaru legacy wagon AWD non turbo. I bought the thing for 600 bucks and love subaru's now. Quick up to date 1) Transfer case has seized clutches so when front wheels spin 1:1 ratio backs do to. (Not very fun when your turning) So I took out a piece of the driveshaft and now am running in 2WD mode. Yes I tried putting the fuse in the FWD mode and it doesn't work. 2) 2 weeks ago I bought 4 brand new sumitomo tires 3) 3 days ago I got a 4 wheel alignment by a retard at Evans tires that was tring to loosen my rear adjuster and was tightening it instead, which made him strip the bolt head. 4) I went up to L.A. and back today from San diego and looked at my tires. front right and rear right tires r wearing fast on outside tread and inside on the other 2. 5) Also when the guy was doing my alignment which he said all the tires adjusted correctly except my right rear tire which is at -35 degrees, cuz he said it couldn't be adjusted any more then that. Do I need to go get an alignment again or is something else wrong???????? I don't want to spend 400 dollars on tires every 3 months. I rememberr some tech at big O tires said something about caster or something and they couldn't adjust it. Anyways any help would be awesome and thanks in advance

Very useful info thanks alot for the input. I'm cringing since from my past experiance computers in cars are very expensive. But I will definetly ohm out that solinoid and see if it's got any juice. Thanks again guys

This filter thing you speak of do you think it's capable of binding up the transfer clutches if dirty? Also those people that put in the used tanfer case do you know how difficult it was for them to do it? About the tire thing yes the guy I bought it from had a flat and used a different brand tire on if. I beileve he droive on that used tire for awhile until the limited slip couldn't take it anymore and welded the clutches together or something. Since I believe I don't know for sure but even if I have a different size tire in the back once I put that fuse into 2 wheel drive mode it should unlock the driveshaft and let me keep on driving. I'm eagerly waiting for your reply Garbage pail kid Gary hehe. Thanks again for all your input guys

I'm don't think it's the solenoid since when I put the fuse in for 2 wheel drive mode it doesn't disengage the AWD. So I'm not sure but if it was eletrical shouldn't that fuse do the trick? Also there is a limited slip clutch inside the transfer case which should allow the rear wheel to spin freely if one is lifted off the ground (with the car in neutral and e-brake down of course). But then again maybe if the car it's on the wheel will automatically lock right? Well we tested that too, by starting the car and trying to spin the wheel yet to no avail. Thanks greatly for your info however, but I think we covered it. Unless I didn't get what you meant' and if not please re-verify. Thanks again all you Subaru Gurus

Wow thanks, That should help a lot. I bought the hanes manual for the car but of course it's about as helpful as asking a bum what stocks to invest in. I will climb under there this week and see what goodies I can find. By the way do u think I need any special tools for dis-or-re-assembling the transfer case? Thanks again in advance

Hello I just bought my wife a 92 subaru legacy AWD, and am having the same problem. I'm a pretty good mechanic I think just FYI. Anyways I diagnosed the problem by first letting someone else drive the vehicle while I watched. The first thing the car did when turning was make a horrific clicking noise as if the axles were bad, yet the sound was coming from underneath the shifter. The second thing I noticed was that when turning sharply the rear wheel would actually try to lock up. Soooooo Next thing I did was lift just the rear left tire off the ground, put the car in nuetral with e-brake down, and tried to spin it. No matter how hard I pushed it wouldn't budge. Also when I lifted the tire off the ground initially it spun about 1/4 turn from the tourqe that was on the driveshaft. So I believe it's my clutches inside my tansfer case. Anyways my QUESTION is I disconnected the middle piece of the driveshaft since putting the 20 amp fuse into the FWD didn't seem to actually turn the car into 2WD mode since I'm guessing the clutch is welded together. Does anyone out there know enough about this to tell me wheather I'm running any kind of risk by taking out that piece of driveshaft? Thanks in advance PS I talked to a guy in san fransisco yesterday about the problem since no one down here in rich rump roast san diego knows anything about subaru's, and he told me that he never encountered such a problem ever, and he was a subaru specialist. If anyone's knows anything please contribute any info I might have missed. Also if you reply with how to fix the transfer case please rate on a scale of 1-10 how difficult it will be, since I'm not all to familiar with what gadgets and widgets I will need to line up the clutches correctly. PPS I dont' believe I mentioned that this is an automatic, so a viscous coupling is outta the question since I don't believe that automatics have viscous couplings. PPPS I been drinking so please try not to bag on my thought process to much. : )

Hello I just bought my wife a 92 subaru legacy AWD, and am having the same problem. I'm a pretty good mechanic I think just FYI. Anyways I diagnosed the problem by first letting someone else drive the vehicle while I watched. The first thing the car did when turning was make a horrific clicking noise as if the axles were bad, yet the sound was coming from underneath the shifter. The second thing I noticed was that when turning sharply the rear wheel would actually try to lock up. Soooooo Next thing I did was lift just the rear left tire off the ground, put the car in nuetral with e-brake down, and tried to spin it. No matter how hard I pushed it wouldn't budge. Also when I lifted the tire off the ground initially it spun about 1/4 turn from the tourqe that was on the driveshaft. So I believe it's my clutches inside my tansfer case. Anyways my QUESTION is I disconnected the middle piece of the driveshaft since putting the 20 amp fuse into the FWD didn't seem to actually turn the car into 2WD mode since I'm guessing the clutch is welded together. Does anyone out there know enough about this to tell me wheather I'm running any kind of risk by taking out that piece of driveshaft? Thanks in advance