jcniest5
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Posts posted by jcniest5
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would a problem with the IAC cause a problem with the idle even after it's warm?
Certainly to my knowledge.
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I haven't actually call a dealer yet, but from my phone shopping around today, the cheapest new one is like $120.00. A few stores even quoted me a price of way over $250.00 for a new one! That's ridiculous! I finally found that they can order a reman one at Red Rooster for $81.00 (which is one of the stores that has the new one for $257.00). Napa can order a new one for $117.00 in about a week. Wells Auto can order a new one for $130ish, which can arrive as soon as Tuesday. Checker can order it for $160ish, which they said they don't even know when it's gonna arrive.
Why is there such a vast price difference between each store? I think I'm going with the reman at Red Rooster. What do you guys think?
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Right on! Thanks guys! I found the culprit tonight as I couldn't sleep and had to go out to the car and did some fiddling around. I found the problem to be the fuel injector number 4. It took out each plug one at a time and upon unplugging no. 1 - 3, the engine sound rougher but sure enough when I got to no. 4, the engine sound the same. I did a hearing-test on the injector and it didn't make any clicking noise like others, so I'm 99% sure it's it. I also did some current/voltage test on them and and they seem to be around .47 - .50 volt, is this normal? What is the voltage suppose to be if they are not normal?
I will go and get a used injector tomorrow and see if it fixes the problem. Any recommendation which I should go for, used or new injector?
I will keep you all posted!
Thanks alot again, guys. You all rock!
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Well, guys, I hope I don't sound too unrealistic here. Tonight, my 91 Leggie auto AWD may have given up finally. I was driving, suddenly the Check Engine Light came on, went off, came on, went off, then the engine start shaking like crazy, driveable, but seems like it doesn't want to go anymore. Step on the gas, the car shook alot, so I returned back home.
Checked everything, no loose hose/tube of any kind. Can't figure what's going on now. PCV just replaced. IAC, not sure if it is the problem, but recently replaced. Checked all plugs, all tight (and just replaced about two months ago). Oxygen sensor just replaced two months ago as well. Could it be that I used the Universal one?
Any ideas before I bury this old man in the grave for the final time?
Thanks in advance!
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It will be helpful if you can tell us where the noise is coming from. It's probably the hand-brake mechanism inside the drum(s). Try pulling the hand-brake lever hard and release it in case it got stuck a little.
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IAC is also another thing to check. Sounds more like it's the IAC than anything else.
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You probably have missed connecting the electrical part or it did not go in properly (all the way in).
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You can also call your GF and demand that she brings your key back or else you will dump her. (Heheheh...J/K on the dumping part)
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Well, at the worst case, just call a Taxi if you are absolutely required to be at work (meaning call-in is not allowed at your workplace.)
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Sorry, not that knowledgeable in that area. Someone else please help this guy out!!!!
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I'm not sure if the IAC is part of the throttle body. I think they are separate and I'm afraid you might not get the IAC, which really is the real culprit of your problem (or what you want to fix). If after you take the whole thing out and it's indeed part of it, I would say it's a good price.
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If it's a major repair, carfax.com will show it. Otherwise, if there is no service records that come with the car, you are out of luck unless you can contact the original owner.
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By the way, the auto has a TCU of its own and that really screw it up. Don't think you can mix it. In the auto, there is the ECU and there is the TCU. Both work together. If you mix the ECU to manual, which doesn't have the TCU at all, don't think it will work at all. But again, I could be mistaken as I'm not expert.
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I could be mistaken, but I think fuel line can take more pressure though not sure about the temperature. The tranny line/system is not pressurized like that of the fuel line/system. I can connect and disconnect tranny line without doing any depressurizing but not with fuel line as there is always high pressure in the fuel line, so the apposite may be true of what you said. Again, I'm not saying you are wrong, I'm just telling it from experience (opinion) and not based on technical data.
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Not 100% sure, but don't think it will work.
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It's on the left side of the radiator (driver side). Look carefully, you should see two lines connected to the two prongs there, I don't remember which is the IN or OUT. It doesn't matter as long as you connect one to the external cooler and link it so it goes back to the tranny.
Here's a little direction
Items you will need:
1. Two fuel lines 1.5 - 2 feet. (Make sure they fit the prongs on the new external cooler - very important.)
2. One adaptor that fits the fuel line of the external cooler and of the line from the tranny.
Remove the fans and their protectors then the radiator. Install your external cooler in front of your radiator using the included accessories and directions. (Your external cooler should be slim enough to fit in between the space between the radiator and AC condenser. If not, get a different one.) Before putting the radiator back there, install the two fuel lines onto the two prongs and put everything back where they belong.
Now, loosen the upper line that that goes into the radiator and using an adapter, connect it with one (any) line from the external cooler. (Don't touch the bottom line/prong on the radiator). Then connect the one line remaining from the external cooler to the prong on the radiator.
After done, you should have something like this: Line from the tranny into the bottom prong on the radiator, out from the radiator into the external cooler, out from the external cooler (adapted) and back in to the tranny. Now, you have a continual flow of fluid throughout the whole thing and the external cooler will cool down the fluid.
Hope this helps. I hope my directions are clear. If not, let me know and I will try to explain them another way.
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I'm not sure how the newer Legacies are, but my 91 has one filter attached (in between the fluid line going to the radiator) located under the battery and then there is the filter/screen inside the tranny that you need to take out the fluid pan to change it.
When you flush out the old fluid, I would recommend putting new full synthetic fluid in for maximum efficiency. Just make sure to flush out the old fluid completely. For me, I added a cooler in front of the radiator, connected the new cooler by way of using fuel line, attached in between the the fluid line of the external filter and the radiator.
It does its job well and help cool the tranny fluid alot.
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Another way to test if your alternator is working/charging properly is to start the engine and let it run while disconnecting the battery cable (positive). If your engine continues to operate without the battery, then alternator is still working. However, if your engine dies immediately after you disconnect the battery cable, your alternator is bad for sure and needs to be replaced or fixed. If you know how, alternator can be fixed, mostly it's just the two brushes inside it worn out. Get two new brushes and replaced the worn out brushes will fix the problem 95% of the time.
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you mean replaced it? No....I just tried to clean it out with brake cleaner then reset the ECU
Yeah, replace it. Also check your PCV valve.
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I did the brake cleaner thing, reset the ECU....no dice. There might be a bit of an improvement but when the car starts up it still does it's little idle dance between 0 and 1k until it settles down around 500. The car didn't stall out when coming quickly to a stop but....
What next guys? Any more suggestions? (please)
Have you tried the IAC yet? That may be the real culprit.
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The alternator on the EJ22 (haven't seen other engine models yet) is one of the easiest parts to replace (IMHO). Based on the EJ22 engine, facing the engine, (you will need to remove the top protective sheets (don't know what they are called)), the alternator is in the middle, to your left is the power steering pump, in between them is the idler pulley you will need to loosen the front bolt so you can relief the belt tension by turning the top bolt (both 12mm socket) counterclockwise. Once you have loosened the pulley enough, slip the belt out, loosen the two bolts holding the alternator and pretty much just slide it out of its place. Of course, you will need to disconnect the two wire harness (connectors). Installation is just the opposite of what you've just done.
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Have you got the timing belt replaced recently? At 150K, I would highly recommend a new timing belt if it hasn't been done very recent.
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Check your charging system (alternator) to make sure it's still in top charging condition. Whenever you use AC, if the alternator isn't at the top condition, the AC uses a lot of power and the reduction of power (because of mediocre charging) will stall your car. Perhaps someone with a more knowledge in AC can pinpoint the exact problem but that's as far as I can guess.
Cam seal, oil seal.....how hard can it be?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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I hope it's not internal leaking inside one of the combustion chambers. If it is, it'll be very hard to fix it. You will need to take the whole engine apart to do it, I think. (I could be wrong).