decorrupter

Found this on ebay, thought someone might be interested, I have a wagon but dont need it...... Ebay Timing Kit Comes with the belts, the tensioners and idler!!!

I just spent a week and a half putting a justy together out of two parts cars. Brake line repairs, headgasket, interior swaps, and axles problems. Finally got it on the road, and clocked 700 miles on a round trip to pick up my brother from Camp Laguene N.C. (im in VA) Ran great and still is - sorta- When i went to remove a drivers side rear axle (drive and pass side are diff axles in rear too) it was jambed and took a day to extract. Then when i went to seek a replacment I found out that no parts dealer could get it, not even napa. A Soob dealer could order me one for $400 but since i paid only 100 for both the justies, i didnt think so. I ended up breaking the spare pass axle to rebuild to drivers side. Then when i went four wheeling today i later found my selfmade axle clicking. Now I'm screwed. i posted in the marketplace, but i was wondering if anyone new if i could change the diff/axles/something. So i didnt have this problem. I know its a stretch, but im trying lol -dC

I have one, Its very small and simple, bolts through the body from underneath and then behind the bumper, cant be more than a class one. I never got to intall it on my 83 Hatch. I'll snap some photos for you if youd like.

Those diagrams are hard to come by, i eventually went to the junk yard with a notepad and found another car that was still hooked up. (Of course I put an EA82 carb on an EA81 Motor, so I had a few more problems lol)

my appologies, i forgot to explain the code. The ECS light doesnt show until after about 20 minutes of driving and stays on until you cut the car off......off course since it first started the blinky light always blinks

I got that one on my hatch, just a thought, with the vapor gap on the top (as intended), it would let air that got through the system out of the line, like an automatic bleeder. Maybe thats its purpose?

Hey the wheels are clean though! Everyone knows its not about the car, its about the DUBs lol

My 83 Hatch has been throwing a code 12 since me and the moose converted it to an EA-82 carb and intake (BTW that was fun....) I thought it was just computer freskout garbage, but the other day i blew 5! ignition fuses. We found a harness that could have been shorting out and that fixed it, but i cant figure out what on an ignition system could be failing enough for a light, but not effect the car's starting or running. Any ideas?

I had an irregular fuse blowing problem with my ignition fuses, turned out to be an unused harness was jambed under my spare. Try looking around and seeing if every thing is free and staying dry.

Dangit Moose, I'm not fat I'm big boned. Oh if i'm lifting stuff I want a biggie sized fat pill from McDonalds as Fee.

About a week ago me and Meeky Moose changed my clutch (3door/2wheel) We decided to pull the engine, being that with two of us we could just pick it up and set it on the ground. Thats alot easier then holding a transmission up from under a car..... -dC

Quick thought from my GM experiences, the Quad-4 Engines, i think from 95 and up didnt have a PCV valve at all, they used a device called an Air/Oil seperator in its stead. Haynes Manuals for Cavaliers/Malibus/Berettas should go over them. Maybe its a retro/prefab option for you guys! -dC

FYI His Friend Happens to be me! That '83 is my first subaru and this is my first post! Took the "Eggroll" out on its madian voyage, personally, i think i had too much fun. Either way, Subi-newbie on deck, and your advice is gladly appreciated! -dC