HooptyGL
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Posts posted by HooptyGL
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Ok, so its a DR 4wd 1985 GL wagon with about 122k on it. I had just merged back onto the highway after filling up and i noticed the throttle was sticking once i got it into fifth gear. Go i give the accelerator pedal a tap....still stuck. So i move into the middle lane on I-10 eastbound, shift into N and low and behold the tach shoots to 8k. I shut the car down - going about 85 mph - and coast into the shade on the sholder. I popped the hood and one bolt/two washers are just sitting there on my maifold. Throttle body is fully extended, a lot of cable is visible, and it is off the tensioner spring. What do you think, snapped throttle cable or just a toast throttle body mechanism? When the car is fired up the tach shoots to 8k. ------ Neal
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85 Wagon - RED
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=9142&sort=1&cat=500&page=1
94 Lego GT Wagon - Midnight Blue <----Stolen 01-01-05
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lemme guess its got a brown on brown interior....like this one right?
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=9142&sort=1&cat=500&page=1
i would kill for paint like that.....congratz!!!!!
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I just noticed this. No signatures. Yes its old news.
Personally, its ***************************. I donated money so I could have a 1 line signature. When sigs became a problem, I changed the font and shortened it up.
So yea, thanks jerks, that had the long signatures. Now people have to post what car they have when they have a question. Whereas the signatures made it so people had to type less when they started a new thread.
Anyways I',m sure the admins are gonna feel good about locking and deleting this post, so go head. While you are at it, send me my 20 bucks back that I donated.
i posted a similar thread in off-topic yesterday....maybe the mods will let it in.
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big bad hoopty, the logger,
4low issue:
I'd bet your trans mounts are toasted, or the little bushing in the 4wd lever is wasted(like I was recently), either way, have somebody sit in the car and shift in and out of 4wd, hi, low, the works. If the whole trans moves around it's the mounts(go get some from your local yard, or pay me a bunch of $$ to get you some for cheep then add on a huge friend tax),
if it's just wiggle room in the shift lever then you can adjust it, it's a 12mm nut that will allow changing the throw of the lever... on passenger side...
The starter issue:
Grounds, clean and inspect all of them! maybe even add a few for good measure.
One thing to try is to unplug the plugs that go from your trans to the car, one is the 4wd indicator light, the other is for the reverse lights, neither should effect the drivablility of the car, but in your case the 4wd is messing with startup? so unplug them and see if problem goes away, if not you can thank me for having to climb in your car and pull apart two PITA plugs, remember push the plugs together first, then pull them apart, don't ask why, it just makes them come free easier.
Mmm winter wonderland over here.
N baby!!!!!!
Hola from Mexico....70 degrees and up during the day (on the gulf of california). I'll be sure to check the plugs when i get back to AZ in feburary...thanks for the BETA on location of the 12mm passenger side nut...im sure thats what it is but if not ill be sure to call you up to source me some mounts.
Adios from the land of sun and surf.
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You mentioned keeping your hand on the shifter- so the car is a dual range with the lever-style shifter? That would eliminate it being a possible vacuum issue, as that 4WD system has no vacuum connections.
-> that is very good information!!!! thanks!!!
Stupid question, but... you ARE pushing the clutch in when you start the car, right? Even with it in neutral?Yes i am pushing in the clutch. Not that it matters though because the car will try to turn over without the clutch in.
The hi/lo shifter can indeed be adjusted, and if it's hitting the body, it can pop out of lo. I can't remember how to do it, but I know others here can...Im going to consult my chiltons on this one....but any beta on success doing so would be great.
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neal
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Also, the car doesn't have to be in 4WD when you start it up. As soon as you move the lever it goes into 4WD; it doesn't take 10 feet or whatever that some 4WD rigs take to lock the hubs.
As to why being in 4WD would cause startup issues... not sure. Have you made sure all your grounds are good & clean?
More often then not if I start up the car in 2WD and then try to switch into 4WD high I get a painfull whirring / grinding / noise from hell when my foot comes off the clutch and the car goes no where. The only way i can get the car to move then is engaging the lever (85's did not have push button) into 4WD low, and holding the lever in place.
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I have been doing a bit of firewood collecting in the areas of prescribed burns and need to keep my '85 GL wagon in 4wd high when it gets shut down so that I can get out of the woods with a full load of Juniper. I've begun to notice that the engine is having a bit of trouble firing up when the car is in 4WD. I have never had a problem with start up hesitation in the past. The ea82 engine has a weber 32/36 and is running on 87 octane.
The car will fire up fine if it is parked with the car in 2wd.
Any ideas on what might be causing this problem?
Also...can someone please enlighten me as to the proper method of engaging the car into 4WD LOW. The car does not have a manual to describe how to. Also how can I keep the car from slipping out of low while driving? (without using my right hand to hold it into place) Are there bushings...does the 4WD need to be serviced???
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Neal
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USMhttp://www.uswmb.org/viewtopic.php?topic=188&forum=6B
Hey USMB members you gotta check this out..... Vicky
your rotties are funny looking!
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um, no. i bought outback struts from Monroe, took out the stock struts, loaded the struts with my old spring, and bolted them right back on. all it does is pull the control arms and axles and whatnot lower. why would you have to do anything to the engine.
i did it about 6 months ago and have had no problems.
dude.....without those engine spacers the body clearance is increased but the engine sits at the same height in relation to the frame.....why not have the spacers that come with the outback for that very reason?
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engine spacers? what are you talking about?
i've just got a legacy with outback struts
no in that case you would have an outback.
in order for the ob strut swap to be done correctly you need to source a plethora of suspension parts from the doaner outback...like bushings and the FREAKING ENGINE SPACERS THAT GO BETWEEN THE ENGINE AND THE CROSSMEMBER...it is a very common modification to lego's.
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I am really interested in this as well, as I just got my lift done on my 98 Legacy, and if the numbers for ratios quoted above are correct, this would be perfect with my 27" BFGs, as in High it would return my gearing to stock, fixing the speedo and odometer inaccuracies, and in low it would give me the little extra needed for those steep hills. Keep us updated!
this thread is a bit to unque for me to be thrown into the annals of the message board.
shadyirishman what is the deal dude?!?!?! i would buy one if the price was reasonable and i dont even have an ej for it to go into.
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Been looking at replacing my struts. Been planning on getting the KYB GR2's but am wondering what #'s for my Legacy SUS. I think it's the Legacy Outback, but am not sure. If so, do I just use the SM5361's all around? Here's a link to the info I'm going by. Please let me know. TIA.
pretty sure lego springs on a '95 ob strut adds 2 " to ride height on any legacy through 99...you need the frame spacers though and a few other parts from the donor OB's suspension.
i heard from a little birdy that you can re-bore the holes on the strut towers and Forester stuts will slide right on in. that would actually give your OB a bit more clearance....just my $.02
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neal
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ok, but there's someone here, i think with a lifted hatch that gets 8mpg
well that sure would suck to be him...unless he didn't give a flying-hoot about what he had to pay for go juice.
oh and i meant to put out a + for OB struts...im pretty sure i used the springs off my lego though...
what does your ob lego get with the fuel injection...i cant remember if you said it had a lift, bigger tires and all the weight that comes along with that....i dont ever think my 94 gt ever got 30+ mpg....maybe once probably downhill after the borla headers, catback, and the cone went on
did you -greengod86- manage to source the engine spacers?...that was a beeoch to pull and then ghetto rig in there with bolts way too huge and mad washers to compensate.
free range..the dude who was constantly crashing the ea models into schit...supposedly has seen forester struts slide into re-drilled slots, but i cant remember if he did that onto his lego or if it was ontosome one elses ea.
Mud Rat would know.
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Size counts for a lot. I chose an old Hatchback for my silly experiment because it was narrow and short. Old Soobs slip down overgrown trails, go around obstacles and turn around in places that a newer car, or Jeep for that matter, might need a chainsaw to do.
i have never felt bad when ive been in free range's old hatch(es) when they have gone flying off the road into the oregon national forest.
i did on the other hand have a problem when i wheeled 'round in my 94 gt lego with the outback lift and goodies...it just felt wierd driving around in a car that expensive...but im over that now....once it was stolen and totalled and the insurance came back i was stoked to buy a REAL subaru...see sig...it will never get stuck on me ever.
i still drive 'round with a chainsaw in the car just in case though....
btw....my carbed ea-82 gets 30+ mpg consistantly...how 'bout factoring in your MPG into the pro's / con's
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neal
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Someone needs to grab that. Insurance will total it, but a new quarter panel and reseating the tires would make that drivable again. I don't know about the downside, but a couple o' doors would make it good enough. Looked in nice shape rust wise.
no kidding....i wish the paint on my GL was as nice as that!!!
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i had my doors blown off by a sooped up turbo justy 'bout a week or so ago...my girlfriend was rolling in the passenger seat...i didn't realize that they were so quick off the line.
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your gonna be backfiring like mad with no resonater on there. like every time you throw from first to second it will freaking explode.
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another for custom pipes.....great increase in highway acceleration i dont have many complaints about loss of low end...probably 'cause of the weber...but i do backfire like mad now when im coming down hill and my neighbors hate it. i dont need to worry about this soob passing any kind of emissions testing 'cause it dont exist in yavapai county, arizona.
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yo yo yo yo yo yo yo yo :
whats the deal with these new dual range's.....any idea on a price yet......im guessing your ship hasn't come in yet.
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neal
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I think... well, pretty sure... the car has to have a regular plate first before you can convert it to an historic plate.
so i couldn't apply for a vintage tag w/ and out-of-state tag on my car? i would have to get regular ct tags first, then try for the vintage plates?
confused
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Umm, Paul, where've you been? Check the DMV website, Connecticut now only inspects salvage-titled vehicles and does emissions inspections for 24-to-4 year old vehicles. So unless you were trying to register your Subaru school bus...you're home free on safety. THERE IS NO INSPECTION FOR CLASSIC CARS EITHER. All they do is verify the VIN# if you're registering with an out-of-state title.
so i could theoretically register my de-emissioned 85 gl in ct under vintage status once it turned 25 years old, with out having to go through the pains of passing emissions in order to get a vintage tag?
sweet!!!
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turns out i had a vac line disconnected...so fixed that
drained the oil and the consistancy of the oil coming from the pan wasn't as frothy and light as i had seen on my dip stick the day previous....it just looked like condensation....so i filled her up smacked on a new filter turned the key and BANG, she fired right up and idled nice.
no smoke, no burning odors, and its running smooth....tragety averted for the time being i hope.
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Not so quick. A bad PCV will make hershey's on your dipstick. If it's coolant mixing with oil, it will be milky-looking, and your oil will be over-full.
the car would not idle, the oil was sludge and sat very low on the dipstick. im guessing that the high oil pressure is indicitive of an over-full oil pan. im going to drain 'er and start pulling hoses after i get out of class at 3.
ill try to post pics but i doubt it will be anything near the DQ machine.
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neal
Help! Gremlin's attacked the throttle body mechanism
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
fixed....just needed to replace the sending spring.....now i just need to find a carb kit for a 32/36 weber. If you have a line on one please reply here or drop me a PM.
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neal