RedRX

Hey - why stop there? Why not go get a Jeep and lower that? It amazes me the amount of effort people go to to make a vehicle something it's not. Pimpin in an EA81?.... pshaaaawwww:-\ . You outa see all the lowered Suzuki 4x4s around here - gee - they must handle like Ferrari's now - being lowered and all. Hope your going to get $500018inch rims and ultra-low rubber to slam it on. Oh well - each to his own - I did some real wierd ****e to my 1st car when i was young. BTW is cutting the springs legal/safe. I guess you dont have speed bumps or potholes near you. Aaah car fashions that have nothing to do with practicality:brow: Hehe - sorry for the dig - I cant resist - just these damn Hot 4's magazines convincing guys they are gonna pull chicks like mad if they do all this stuff to their cars - just dont kill yrself doing it

Hmmm 266 duration and a 'torque' grind - not sure how that works. Long durations normally only assist at higher rpm where airflow is accellerated - low rpm and you have incomplete cylinder filling. On my car (260-270 duration I figure from the timing specs) the unburned hydrocarbons is phenomanal at lower speeds (which gives a clue to efficiency). I fall into a real flat-spot on 1st-2nd upchanges unless I rev out to near 6000rpm. On the upside - u do feel it when both boost AND cams kick in at 3000. Just a bitch in slow traffic.

WJM - can you tell me the specs of the cam grind they suggest? ie timings and durations (no-idea of my lift or any head/valve work done)

Dont go too crazy with yr cams - I have a an EA82T in my RX that was built up by rally mechanics - 30-70/70-30- it says on the cams (when i pulled the covers to do the lifters). No idea of lift but when when you compare to standard they look nearly circular rather than egg-shaped. I think those timing figures make them about 280 duration. My engine still has some tuning/running issues; but i can tell you this - NOTHING below 2000rpm, easy to stall without playing the clutch, kicks in great 2500-3000 and keeps pulling well past 6000 (i dont go further out of respect for its age - despite the high-tensile head bolts (seen em) and apparantly forged pistons (not seen so cant be sure). So, in a nutshell - you won't win a traffic light drag unless you are prepared for 4000rpm starts, and she wont be easy off road.

DOH! - for some reason I was thinking cam-boxes rather than heads.

HUH! What about the Dizzy drive on the l-hand head? The longer valve cover that requires 5 bolts rather than 4? We really talking EA82 here?

Thanks Skip - that is exactly the info I was after. It is a flap-type AFM BTW. By the smell of fuel (and poor milage!) I think I am running full-rich. I have checked the temp-sensor - and it changes resistance as temp increases - which is what it should do I gather. BTW - any idea what a code 12 error is?

Checking why the RX runs so rough, and thirsty- so going thru all the sensors etc. Throttle Position Sensor gets voltage, and shows resistance change from the idle position, but seems to send nothing back to the ECU - (as per the check connector). In other words - no variable voltage seems to be returning to the ECU. What would be the symptoms?

Anyone know what an error code 12 is? Book says ignition switch off? What is that supposed to mean? I mean - the car starts!

Ouch - i have an EA82T that was built up for rally work in my RX. Pulled the lifters to fix the rattle and loosen up the locked ones - noticed the huge off-set cirlces it has for cams andf the markings on them (not regrinds - but from real chunky billet) 30-70 70-30. I guess this explains why I have no low-end?