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Found 3 results

  1. So.. I'm back in with you guys, funny how that worked out. Wasn't looking for a Subaru, but I couldn't pass this one up If RallyAlex is reading this, sorry bud! As much as I hate to, had to pass on the White Lightning wagon :/ I almost regret that decision, but hey I was about to buy a Toyota SR5 truck, didn't expect to jump back two decades, I have to be weened back on the Subitol I have to point out, this is my 100th post, coming with my second Subie, THAT'S how it's done Thank you all for all the help thus far, Best garddarn forum on the globe! I'll be working through a few minor issues, and scowering the forum for information as usual. I'll go ahead and drop the topics, in case anyone would like to chime in 1/7 Blown driver's door speaker 2/7 one rear window is slow going back up (auto windows), wind noise on the highway (frameless doors yay, gotta love'em gotta hate'em) I've heard of lubing up the window rollers. Would cleaning and conditioning the seals for the doors and windows help? 3/7 Rear diff had oil splotch, how do I go about checking the oil level? 4/7 Plan on replacing the rear spring/strut assemblies. ...Monroe aftermarket, or pick and pull? The former is decently cheap. 5/7 Horn is going out, luckily I still have my low-tone I was going to use to upgrade mee Mazda3. 6/7 One rust spot near the rear wheel well, NEED to take care of that asap. 7/7 Full tune-up, timing belt might be original. Car starts everytime but the first crank struggles.. like *du-duuuuh vroom* like if it lacked the energy to turn over. I imagine a fresh set of plugs, and the timing belt and oil change should take care of this. Coolant flush ASAP, brake bleed seems in order as well. ~A little TLC and some SeaFoam never hurts, That seems to be all folks!
  2. Hello, I recently bought a 1999 Wagon Sport, which over the last 6 months has needed the usual basic replacements to combat age. I had to replace the original rusted subframe to pass MOT, and it has caused more problems than it has solved. If anyone is able to help me find the root cause of the problem, I would be forever grateful. So, sourcing replacement parts, I took the sub-frame with arms, shafts, diff and shocks from a 1994 WRX, replaced the diff with my original to match ratios, and decided to use my original shocks. The idea was I would end up my original diff and shocks, and the rest would be donor parts to change the existing drum brakes to rear discs and solve the rusty sub-frame issue. Everything seemed to line up and fit into place nicely, no real issues after fitting new flexible brake hoses and rerouting handbrake and abs sensor cables. The issue came once the car was lowered back down onto 4 wheels. Something is causing the rear shocks to rub against the inner arch and against the wheels, but I don't know exactly what is causing it. Comparing the two sub-frames, the seem identical. I wandered if the shock mountings on the back of the 94 disk housing are different to the back of the drum housing on a 99? I've compared the shocks that came attached the to new frame, the are shorter than mine, and have a wider spacing between mounting bolts. Please help! The photo's show what came out, and what is now in it's place:
  3. Hi there guys, Pretty new to Subaru's and recently had a head gasket go on my ej22 in my 97 impreza OBS, priced parts and was about to order them when I found a guy in my town selling a ej22 for cheap and it runs minty, my only concern is that it's out of a 95 legacy and I know that the 95 ej22 and the 97 ej22 have slightly different internals and the compression is higher. So my question is would the ej22 out of the legacy swap right into my impreza or would i need to play with the harnesses or swap any parts over? Cheers guys and gals. Also not sure if this is the right board to post this if not could someone please direct me to the correct one, Thanks
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