So it's been a while since i last posted, just been lurking around and reading through. but now i must, my gl-10 turbo has me stumped.

 

Yesterday after driving about 25 miles the car died and wont restart, checked the obvious things, fuses, fusible links, fuel and what not. what im missing is spark!

 

all fuses are good, fusible links are good and have tight connections. with the key in the on position i have 12 volts at the positive terminal on the coil and 2.3 volts on the negative terminal. i tested the coil/dist plug wire ohm, and turning over no spark output to dist.

 

I attempted to locate the ignition relay above the ecu, not sure i can even see it, moved the ecu to the side and all i see is wire harness and steering column.

 

 

I've searched but some of the explanations i've read arent too clear or semi close to my current problem. any help is greatly appreciated.

 

1988 GL-10 turbo 5spd

check the timming belts... sounds like one sanpped

timing belt failure will stop the coil from firing? makes sense but my brain is running at about 12%, between work and the car ive used up all of my alotted brain capacity for the day.

The drivers side camshaft turns also distributor- take off distributors cup and look if rotor turns when you turn motor.

Place a test light probe on the negative side of the coil and see if the light will pulse on and off when you crank the engine over. If you don't see a pulsing light then you may have a bad CAS sensor inside the disty. The voltage on the minus side that you stated sounds too low. There is also an ignition amplifier that may be causing the troiuble.

pulled the distycap tonight before towing it home and turned the motor over.. rotor didnt spin, appears to be a broken timing belt. id rather replace that then try to find a short.

 

did replace the coil and amplifier in hopes of getting it home without a tow, but as i see it now i have a upgraded coil. so, oh well..

 

atleast i know whats up, thank you all for your help

You have located your problem alright. Not as simple as replacing the CAS sensor but not as expensive either.

While you are in there, put a new water pump and oil pump in. It could probably use it, and when will you ever want to be in there again?

oil pump is a definate yes, dont really want to mess with the water pump. engine has about 40k on it and cooling has been extrodinary.

 

Las vegas heat and a/c full blast dont move my temps past 195f. i will however inspect it. just dont want to mess with a good thing. car has a 2 row radiator, extra electric cooling fan and a notched custom front bumper.

 

 

I will take it in to consideration though..